For DIYers with little experience and enough time - 1. Paint the trim and base boards first. 2. Let the paint cure a couple of days. 3. Mask them off with frog tape. 4. Run a thin coat of trim paint over the frog tape where the wall meets the trim or base boards (this completely prevents wall paint from getting under the tape). 6. Paint the walls (2 coats with sanding in between) 7. Pull off the frog tape immediately. Never wait more than a few hours. You will get the crispest line ever on your trim and base board. This is for those that have the time and are particular about the quality of the finish!
I quit using frog tape, as it was pulling small amounts of paint off when removed immediately after painting. Back to reliable blue painters tape or freehand, which works best in most situations.
If I’m painting at home I would do all these steps but when working for a landlord with many units I have to simplify (that doesn’t mean I cut corners :-). So I’ll just comment on a few points. 1. Clean area is crucial so you won’t get any debris in you paint... unless you want to lose time taking particles one by one with your finger, once the paint is on the wall. If it’s a previously used gallon of paint I recommend using a paint mesh filter to avoid old residue of paint in your tray. 2. DryDex is not very good for hard surfaces. You can use it on walls but then again make sure it won’t do «flashing» when paint is apply over. It is mentioned «no priming required» on the container I have but I still cover my patch with a primer/sealer before paint so it won’t show. For wood areas like you are showing I use Lepage wood filler (sold in tube shape) it’s going to be harder than DryDex and maybe easier to sand then the Dyna Patch (i don’t know this product well). 6. Cheap paint would almost be #1 mistake for me. True that BM has great coverage paint, I started using semi gloss about 3 months ago, i love it. (On the down side I don’t know what they put in their flat ceiling paint, If I don’t clean my roller at the end of day it’s going to be ruined the next day :-( 8. So so important! If people knew how good a job they can do with a good brush. If nicely cleaned it can last for years. Please don’t buy brushes at the dollar store. For a flat surface like this you can use a product called Floetrol that eliminates brush marks and improves flow & leveling (use for latex-based paint). 10. The situation where you have plenty of time to do two coats on baseboards is ideal... but not always possible. I would usually do one coat on baseboards, then do the walls, then a final coat on baseboards with a really good brush for cutting. For me doing that part last will give sharper lines of white. If I really have to cut in the time I would do two coats on trims, let dry till next day, then use tape where necessary. Because paint is still fresh I always use a low tack masking tape. You can find other brand name, a bit cheaper than frogtape. (Because you have to paint this light blue on walls I think tape was not necessary. You do white first even if it goes a little bit on blue, then you do the paint on walls. With a good brush the blue is easy to cut). Sorry for long comments. I know you can have ten painters and none (of these ten) will do exactly the same, every painter has it’s preferences! As long as the job is well done at the end, that’s what matters! :-)
One comment on paint - professional paints tend to be thicker/heavier and require good technique. A lot of people have *more* issues with professional paints because they are used to thin paints. Your comment about Floetrol is important for those people. It will help make those heavier paints more forgiving.
@@Mike80528 Yes. I use Floetrol occasionally, forgot to say it’s great to slow down drying time of flat white (ceiling paint). And it can give a very good finish on areas like the one shown in the video (semi gloss).
I find it funny to hear you verbalize that which I and others know innately. Every time I’ve tried to explain things like this to clients I can see the very moment where they glaze over and lose interest!
Yeah it’s like anything… if the customer has no clue how to do it themselves, then don’t try to explain to them how to do it themselves. I get caught rambling off “the process” too often, where I should just get to work and finish what they are paying me to do.
WOW the amount of information and tips given when you explain just one "Mistake" is fantastic. Most others would take an hour to go over only half of what you said in 11.4 min. and it would most likely not be a clear. Thank You!
Thank you, thank you, thank you!! I painted my new/old basement and it’s perfect because of you. Your guidance and explanations are so calm and useful. Basement is now beautiful.
Great advice. Always about the prep. It helps to revisit about how to brush paint. I recently bought a Graco TC Pro Cordless Handheld Airless Sprayer. I am just a diy. It can be more work to mask things off and post clean the sprayer, but boy, is it ever a handy tool.
Use tack cloth and FrogTape,yellow for delicate surface with low adhesive,thats gonna make your life much easier! Nice video and one of the best channels for drywall finishing and painting!☝️💪
Purple tape from SW is excellent for taping off trim that hasn't fully cured. Next day is good. It's pricey but worth it, and can just be used sparingly. Love your videos man. Great work! Great advice!
Great tips as always. If i may add a few to your tips. A painter taught me 2 major tips 20+ years ago that I still use today. Remove everything, and Roll, cut, cut, roll. Remove EVERYTHING. Cover plates, hinges, thermostats, blinds, hardware or whatever. The less object to tape and cut around, the faster and better your job will be. Roll everything you possibly can first. It will reduce A LOT of cutting in. Roll everything you can. Wall ends, corners, around plugs and switches (because you removed the plates) and slow down and roll as close as possible to things. Then do your 2 cut-in coats. My cutting in is usually 3/4” or less to objects. Then a final roll. Rolling is faster and smoother than a brush. 3 other tips I can give that I learned as i did more. 1- It’s faster to slow down and cut in nicely than to tape everything off then paint it. 2- Do the primer and 1st coat before you do trim. Less stuff in the way and you can blast through real fast. 3- Pre painting trim. Painting 500’ of trim on sawhorses is super fast os you have enough space to let it dry for a couple days. Then all your doing is touching up one coat once it’s installed.
Roll first and you're cutting in a room that's already painted and you're breathing in all the paint fumes while cutting, which takes the majority of the time. I always cut first, then I'm only in the room for 20 minutes breathing the paint I'm rolling on the walls.
Ben, another great video from you and this was very interesting to me because I work as a professional painting contractor and am always trying to improve my methods of painting. All of the mistakes you mentioned were "spot on" and I was very glad to hear how you emphasized the importance of having a clean surface. I always wash all of the surfaces down with a degreaser prior to applying any paint and it is also a preference of mine to paint all of the molding last on a paint job even though it may take longer.
Even when I think I have a handle on what you're working on I still watch your vids, I still usually pick up something. I wish I had your videos 20 years ago when I was 15 working as the sole maintenance/drywall/paint/lock man at an apartment complex. If you ever wondered why apartments have horrible globby paint and lumpy ugly drywall I was that reason!
I usually use bemjamin moores advanced paint. They were all out last weekend so I got the rust guard semi gloss. So beautiful, it even covered up a few little scratches that I noticed previously
Ceilings first. Then trim and go onto walls a little. Then walls, cutting up to trim with brush, no tape. Almost never have 3 days to just let the trim sit.
Thanks for the tips. I do roof 1st and get the white about a 1/4 inch on to the wall. Then skirting. Cut the wall in with a paint edger then roll the rest. Never had any big problems. Don't need to use tape on anything but socket cables.
I love your videos! It would be nice if when you mention products you like to use that you include them in the show notes. I find that one of my biggest amateur problems is not knowing which products I need to use on the different surfaces. Again, thanks for your videos!
Yellow frogtape never let me down. I taped walls the other day with it and I only gave the second coat few hours to dry. It didn’t pull off any paint. The yellow frogtape is truly amazing stuff.
Super good commentary, super good information, and big thanks for not reminding us to thumbs up and subscribe, really appreciate that. This is the BEST RU-vid channel for DIY.
I stopped taping edges and only tape for protection if needed now. A 2" trim brush can feather right up to the line and with a little practice it cruises through a room. I hate painting, but it made it so much faster and the lines are sharp so win-win. A lot of times the paint would seep under the tape anyway.
the burnishing (at least that's what i call it) of blue tape is rarely discussed. if you don't burnish it, then it's much easier to remove, and less likely to pull paint, but it also might get paint behind it if you're really sloppy. but even when you do burnish it, you might try burnishing only the very edge, like a 1/16th" so you get the protection without risking as much damage.
I think Drydex is mainly for drywall, not for wood. I've used Dap Plastic Wood before for filling, and that worked fine, but it's a little stiff and my tub was dried out rock hard when I came back to use it like a month later. I picked up a tube of Minwax white wood filler. It has a creamy consistency, almost like caulk, it's super easy to work with. It hardens and sands well, and I've had the same tube for months and it hasn't dried out at all. So far that's my fave. I've used Bondo glazing putty which also works well, but it's red and smells bad.
I've found that often times washing the trim (or even everything) with TSP, rinsing and allowing it to dry helps contribute to a good job. This is especially true in kitchens where grease and cooking smoke are a problem; places prone to hand prints (e.g., trim near light switches, windows, railings); and places where people smoked.
Have to agree on that. Sometimes just washing the trim with a crud cutter makes it look like you just painted it once. The paint sticks much better and 2nd coat is very fast, plus I feel better knowing I did my best for the customer.
I always brush back into the wet paint. Even when taking new paint from the pot. Have to take care not to over saturate put it always levels out perfectly. Johnstones trade gloss stays whiter for longer!
Thanks for the tips. Sooo many people do not know how to paint well! I'm almost 60 yo and have done quite a bit of painting on my houses and rentals. I still learn quite a bit by watching youtube and realize I really don't know how to paint well. Looking forward to trying DynaPatch, DryDex and the Lepage product Marc L. mentioned. I have been searching for the "right" filler. I would second Marc L.'s suggestion of Floetrol or Paintrol (I think that is the one for oils? Do your own research!). PS You need to mix in lots more Floetrol than you would think. For rentals I use a Satin sheen, high quality paint and paint all the ceilings, walls and trim with the exact same product. It looks decent. I know... Heresy to to you perfectionists! However, it is a a 70's ranch style duplex that originally had that nasty wood image vinyl tape over wood for all the trim. Anything looks better than that! The ceilings and walls clean-up so much better with the higher sheen and you do not need to paint as often. Good paint holds up much, much better. More $'s up front but pays back with minimizing your labor and buying more paint for an early repaint.
Yeah anything that's going to see more wear than typical, eg a rental or higher traffic area, going up a gloss level is great advice. I just did a sloped ceiling in a loft space in low sheen wall paint because the previous ceiling flat that had been used was covered in hand prints and bug marks that couldn't be cleaned off easily. For a low value property or a rental that will most likely be repainted fairly regularly using one paint on everything is sometimes reasonable in my opinion.
Absolutely 100% agree. Especially on the sand first. I will sometimes take a lightly damp sponge and wipe the railing, or trim just to get all the dust off. One other thing I have learned is not only the size of the brush, but having a new brush. Nothing more frustrating than using a brush that has all the outer bristles flared out beceause your brush is 10 uses old and you can't cut in a clean line, not to mention using a big brush for small fine trim, just becease you rushed it, or can't be bothered to buy a new one. Last thing if needs be get a check list of everything you need before you start. Tape, sand paper, paint tray.......etc..... Also (LOL!!!!) one last thing don't start a job like 30 min before your going out for dinner or something....it will 100% look like ass. Ask me how I know.
How about the brush bristle? I found that the soft Purdy brand in the US works much better than medium stiff or stiff. Soft gives a much smoother finish. And using the right size helps too - maybe using a slanted 1" and a 2" for the same trim work... Your videos are always useful!
I've always said that it takes me longer to prep than to paint. With 4 kids and several pets, it's mandatory to scrub surfaces clean before a drop of paint hits it.
Currently living in a renovation site with two dogs. The order of operations is literally being dictated by minimizing the amount of times I need to clean dog hair and dander off the surfaces.
Good stuff. I’m in the middle of a similar job now where I couldn’t do the trim first and I’m kicking myself for even taking the job already. But I can do it - it just takes a lot more time on details.
im sure i'll catch hell, but here it goes... I lived with a professional painter and she would paint all the trim first, no tape, over paint in the the walls didnt matter, just smooth it out. Then cut in the wall paint. Looked amazing. We painted our entire 3500 sq ft loft like that. every place ive lived since ive done the same way and it has always turned out amazingly well.
That’s the way I do it as well. No sense worrying about the walls when you’re doing trim, you just gonna paint over them anyways. Trim paint is way more durable it can take tape. Wall paint wipes off trim paint easy with a wet rag on trim paint.
@@ianholmes6078 if you see splatter when wet, wipe it off with a wet cloth. If you see it after you're done, touch up the trim. Also, any time you don't like how you have painted down the walls to the trim, you can always go back with the trim paint to touch up those few spots that bug you.
I would recommend using a cloth nap mini roller, leaves a little bit of nap while evening out the paint. I find it way faster because you can slop the paint on and quickly roll it out smooth and even.
Yeah here in NZ we use a fine mini roller on every surface possible on the trim, especially with water based enamels as he says in the video they're harder to get nice by brush.
Another good video, my 2 cents, this might sound weird, but to really get every bit of dust off trim, brush even rag, still leaves dust, tack cloth probably, but here’s what I do, I use my bare hands, just wipe over, acts as a tack cloth, then just wipe off on trousers, of course this is final step, try it you’ll be amazed how much super fine dust you will pick up. Also avoid green frog tape and blue 3m, too stick for wall tape, it will pull off any loose paint or mud, you’ll be looking for touch up paint, I’ve found the yellow frog is the best. The other tapes are only good for hard to stick on surfaces, bare wood, oily surfaces.
I do agree about a good brush. I learned the hard way. As for everything else, I live by myself so I can live with the quality of my own work. When I see what other "professional" painters do, I shake my head because I can do the same or better for free!
Many pros paint in this order - ceiling, trim minus baseboard, walls, baseboard. Cutting is simplified this way, much easier to cut a wall into door/window trim/ceiling/crown-moulding than the other way around.
The only time it makes sense is on the crown, below that, you are just asking for it. Trimming the wall to the crown works out better, everything else is trim over wall.
@@geeemqu I know what you mean, but its a matter of what to cut into what, blow out one over the other and you are screwed if its last, but if you do semi under flat or satin, it's going to show.
Agree about Benny's Advance paint. The first time I tried it I was blown away at how well it leveled out. Using the cheapest paint usually results in the highest total cost of the job. (time, labor, excess materials, etc, etc) I'm frugal, I buy only top shelf paint. There's a saying down here in the states. "I'd rather have bare walls then Behr on the walls."
I always clean everything with windex, takes grease and dirt off fast and doesn’t leave the “slimy” feel that TSP leaves. And paint seems to adhere really well after cleaning with windex. I also paint the trim and ceiling first and overpaint on the walls, which makes cutting in the wall paint easy. And (might as well keep going)…I tuck wax paper under the baseboards to use as masking. It is easier to work with then trying to use masking tape on the floor or carpet. Thank you for your tips - there are a few I will use on my next paint job!
@@srharris88 I've never seen a painter mask the wall to ceiling interface. If you're struggling to cut a straight line free hand, especially with high contrast colours, I like to thin the paint I'm cutting in with for the first coat, makes it flow realy nice and get nice long strokes. Also in older places there's often a crack so a bead of caulk around the whole top corner of the room fixes the crack and makes it super nice to cut into with the wall paint.
@@Danny87R Cutting it with a brush is always a good way to do it. I find though i can mask and spray (and backroll) a bit faster. Especially with white ceilings and tan walls where youd likely need two coats of each color. To each their own, ive been a painter for 16 years now and i find everbody has their own ways.
@@srharris88 ah yeah fair enough if you're spraying the walls too definitely makes sense your way. taping plastic to a finished ceiling to stop wall overspray is a headache no one wants haha
The content of this channel is fantastic! How would you all recommend I tackle a whole room with moldings and baseboards? Trim (including moldinds) > ceiling > walls? Or Ceiling > trim >walls?
Ceiling, trim, walls. Paint over the walls with both the ceiling and trim paint, making sure to leave it smooth. Then Then only real cutting you have to do is with the wall paint, which is typically the easiest. The only thing I sometimes tape is the top of the skirting.
It might sound dirty. But I lick my palm and wipe the duster brush across it before dusting a surface. If I'm doing architrave I carry a damp sponge and dab it with the duster brush. It collects the dust instead of flicking it away then. I've been a painter for 47 years so have tons of tips.
Cielings first undercoat wood paint walls gloss all wood is the simple order it's done in Scotland I don't know who does any different but I do enjoy your videos
I typically paint my walls first. Next cut and dry fit baseboards. Next I paint two coats on baseboard pieces on saw horses. Then I install baseboards and fill holes/sand/caulk and apply a thin 3rd "touch up" coat of paint staying mainly on the face of the baseboards. This works well for me as DIYer with poor painting skills as there is no "cut in" and no need for taping. The finished product turns out surprisingly well, The perfect crisp lines between trim and wall make it pop and tend to overshadow any paint transitions from the "partial" 3rd coat which are only really detectable if you look real closely. I do the same for the trim around doors.
I haven't found a factory primer that is worth painting over. Especially on the pre-primed exterior door trim. I have had paint failure within a few years because of it. I now Sand off the factory primer and prime it myself. Doing so has had the paint last far longer. I've been painting for over 20 years and it took me the first decade to come to that opinion.
When you spackle a nail hole best not to use the whole putty knife I personally like drydex you just have to know how to sand it. I did notice that you didn’t mention a paint conditioner. On the piece you are doing I would lay the whole thing off in one stroke instead of back brushing, I back brush on baseboards. Everything is pretty spot on in your video 👍🏻
When spraying, like to use a roller and backroll to get that “look” ya going for (depending on situation of course). A paint brush is like any other tool; they have so many different ones out there and getting a good quality brush that fits well in your hand (as everyone is different) and TAKING CARE of it, will make it last. Also, nothing wrong w/ having a few different brushes as well as rollers, & for goodness sakes….. PLEASE PPL, use painter tape to tape and remove the “fuzzies” (as I call them) off the roller before first use; along w/ a screen/mesh in bucket. Then grab a painters tool and roller cleaner and keep the brushes (your tools) CLEAN after done for the day; especially if spraying b/c tips/hoses can, and will, get clogged eventually and when go to use next time you’ll spend more time cleaning or throwing out consumables earlier than need b/c didn’t clean things up. Another tip I’d say is: NOT ALL TAPE IS CREATED EQUAL. Get a good quality and adhesive that is right “for your project” b/c last thing ya wanna see/do is rip paint, mud, drywall paper, sealed cabinets, etc…right off &/OR leave behind adhesive residue that now you gotta clean up. Just b/c the tape says can stay down for “30” days DOES NOT MEAN YOU SHOULD LEAVE IT THERE FOR THAT LONG😅
wow learned something new bout taping the finsih wall😓 ive tried that method n samw thing i was pulling the tape of n when it’s almost im at the bottom then some paint peeled off😓 n when im trying to scrape it sims i would peel all of it cos i can see the primer is pulling out, idk if did the right thing but instead of scraping or pulling it i use a cutter n then i sand the edges then put puty again😊
Thank you so much for your recent videos. You gave me confidence to trim out the windows in my backyard office. For painting the trim on a 4'x5' window, would you do the trim and casing all on one side first, then move on, or do all the trim first, then all the casing?
Use a little 4” roller for the window liner and brush the trim if it’s contoured. Use the roller if it’s flat stock. Edge first then till the face. Roller nap should be 5mm micro fibre.
I like “Plastic Wood”, I believe DAP makes it; it’s made with Acetone, I believe, as a thinner, which evaps off quickly allowing you to sand quite quickly. I just wish it was available in containers larger than 8 oz. I usually use a damp rag to wipe off everything before painting. I also will hit filler, tough spots, and knots with shellac primer, I keep shellac primer in 8 oz. squirt bottles just for these uses.
Small containers remain fresh longer. I use Drydex to patch holes and finish walls and have had no luck at all with the larger buckets. The small ones are always fresh and soft and ready to use but the larger buckets are all dried out and rubbery and unusable, and adding water doesn't help. I've wasted a ton of money on buckets that can't be used so I always get the small ones (not the tiny ones used for small projects though).
I dont know what paint stores you guys have up there but here in the US, sherwin William's Emerald urethane enamel paint is pretty much the best you can use for trim. Dries hard and very good leveling. Home depot has one as well, I believe they call it trim and cabinet or something like that. I recommend looking for some at your paint store. Just make sure its "urethane", that's the important part
Pretty spot on with everything I’d say. One thing I’d disagree with would be painting the trim first if you’re painting walls. This may be preference and debatable but I’ve learned to always paint from the top down. Tape the trim paint walls and cut in your trim line from the tape. Can even match tape lines if you want to get it razor sharp and tape the walls when painting the trim. If the wall paint peels touch up as needed, usually doesn’t peel though if let to cure and you can even use the yellow frog tape if you’re really worried about it. It’s like painting a house, most of the time you paint the body first. My experience though, not the gospel.
Have you used the microfiber clothes for dusting/cleaning? I tend to use a slightly damp cloth to wipe down the surface which then dries very quickly then brush/dust off the surface.
Hi Ben Thanks for the great tips !! What do you think about pre- painting all your trim before installing. Applying the primer coats and at least the first finish coat before your install. Also, pre- painting under the wood caps will make finishing under the 1/4" lip easier and nicer. YAY for BM Advance Pearl !!! :)) Terry(Calgary)
Personally I like two coats after install with a sand between coats. I can usually find the joints and nail holes when people try and get away with only one coat. The sanding between coats knocks down the raised grain on the joints and nail holes that show up after the first coat.
Great video again. Maybe some mention of the "tack cloth" (to pick up dust between sanding). I have found some problems with these chemically-treated cloths that can cause problems when you apply the paint. They seem to work best for oil-base paint ... and "move quickly" and don't let the cloth get hot (keep it in the shade), so you don't leave any chemical behind.
@@vancouvercarpenter Thanks for the reply ... love your videos. I'm also not a fan of tack cloths. (It took some learning, but now I really love oil-base paint ... not easy to use however).
@@markmyers7426 I still use a tack cloth ... but keep it cool and wipe FAST. (I wear latex gloves too because the chemical sticks to your hands). However, a damned BUG always manages to land on it at just the right time! Too late to brush it out. And, then they stick there doing "push ups!" BUGS!
What about brushing vs spraying trim? I spray all my doors now and going to try spraying trim in the next room i do, much nicer finish, no brush marks!
Another issue I have seen is leaving the tape on too long. If you are painting trim and leave the tape on too long the tape becomes part of the trim. When you go to pull off the tape the paint either rips off or the tape will not tear loose and you have to use a knife to cut it away from the trim. There are several places in my house where you can see blue tape under the paint where it would not tear loose and had to be cut. As soon as I am done painting trim around a window I immediately pull the tape off. If the paint is still slightly wet it will pull away smooth and easy instead of ripping loose. And I always put on the tape in a sequential fashion with the edges overlapping so that when I start pulling the tape it all comes off in one continuous strip. This makes it a lot easier to remove. If the tape is put on in random fashion you have to constantly stop and find the next edge and start pulling again. If it's put on in order it will all come off as one piece and you don't have to get up on a ladder and try to peel the edges off with your fingernails. You can stand on the floor and just keep pulling it off. But even with tape there will still be places where the paint gets under the tape. There are two easy ways to fix this. If the paint gets on the wall, while the paint is still rubbery and not completely dry, you can take a blunt object like a flat head screwdriver and push the trim paint off the wall and back onto the trim or under the trim if it's not well caulked. Sometimes this works perfectly clean but sometimes the trim paint color remains on the wall. If it's not too noticeable then you're in luck. If it's still noticeable or the paint blob is too big to shove back onto the trim then I take an old brush that is still useable and cut a small bit of bristles off, wrap them in tape, and tape that to a pencil, making a small paintbrush like an artist would use. Then I dab the brush in the paint used on the walls and carefully and slowly push the bristles over the trim paint to cover it. Going slow and edging ever closer to the trim without touching the trim so as to not ruin the trim paint job. With a tiny brush you have much more control over where the paint goes than trying to fix the edge with a large brush. You can also use a toothpick if that works better for you. Dip the toothpick in the paint and just apply the paint one drop at a time and push it around with the toothpick until the trim paint is covered.
I find it takes me double the time to tape vs just hand cut in. Also my cut in looks better with no issues. I always carry around a wet rag... a drip, over paint, or accident gets cleaned up immediately, and I can lay it over my paint brush while it sits so it doesn't dry up. I always keep a brush with me while I'm rolling to go back and catch runs or drips, but there's a technique to not having brush marks when you do this.
10 Year painter here. With practice and the right tape taping becomes faster and a much better cut line. Yellow Frog Tape "brushed on"... ie using a dry brush to push down the edge of the tape... works wonders. Major pain initially though, I get that. But yeah, taping becomes it's own "trade" so to speak.
@@brianmolloy9393 Thanks for this 'brush on' tip with the yellow tape. I'll give it a try. I'm a sloppy painter who is trying to clean up her act, and these videos give me some options to get good results without being an expert cutter.
Im having trouble cutting in the trim after the walls were done as the semi gloss seems quite wet and is beading in the corners. Its making getting a good line very difficult so ive started taping instead and its much easier. Like you said you get better at taping properly. But how do you tape the floor when its hardwood? Cant get anything underneath the baseboard its sitting too flush with the floor. Carpet compresses but not hardwood lol@@brianmolloy9393
Great tips! Id like to recommend a microfibre cloth to collect dust on old paint surfaces. It’s so good that the motor trade use them in the paint booth! They collect millions of particles and can be washed in the machine later.
When they say to paint opposite direction for the second coat, if I rolled a wall from left to right, would the second coat then be right to left? Same with ceiling…towards light and away from light? It’s my first time painting anything 😊
If taping over a repair on a wall, if a must, can't you place a small piece of paper between the tape and repair to protect it. Or at least protect most of it
here's a little additional tip from a n00b, if you have to tape on fresh paint, only press the line, that way if it pulls off paint it'll be a lot smaller than if you pushed the tape all the way down
Hi! Do you use the Benjamin Moore Advance paint on base moulding that are already installed? Or does this paint work best on surfaces that are laid flat?
Need some advice if anyone on here has it. I’ve tried some different methods but I’m having trouble getting nice smooth lines where caulking is needed. For instance, I just installed board and batten in our entryway, and it looks great, but where the top rail meets the wall the paint lines look…less than professional. I tried clear caulking after taping off but I find it difficult to get that edge painted completely before the caulking starts to dry. Any tips?
The best way to get a great job if your customers to pay for it. Stop going for the lowest bidders. This young man is right keep your work site clean I know what you're doing. I'm definitely going to add in do not work for cheap customers. Because at the end of the day if you were doing great work you need to get paid for it Integrity itself doesn't pay the bills
Great tips Ben! No links to the Purdy brushes or tape??? Please try Durham’s Rock Hard filler ( Windsor plywood here in Canada ). It’s a powder so it never dries up, lasts forever and you can fill deep cracks or skim it based on how much water you add. I think you might like it as it’s a less porous filler but at least as hard as wood filler.
I do calking first then ceiling then walls over paint the calk and woodwork...gloss woodwork last as you don't get any flicks of paint from rolling the walls...thats me anyway
The most important is not laying off into the last paint that’s been laid down.I’ve seen people painting doors from bottom to top too.gravity makes paint run down to the floor.so you would paint from the top.and lay off into the last place that was painted
I paint the trim and then cut in the walls I never tape because it is almost impossible to get a perfectly straight line, it is incredibly time consuming, and paint often also bleeds under the tape. With a little practice cutting in is better and way faster.
I paint all my trim first besides the base. No tape. 2 gl bucket 3 in brush 4 in 3/4 nap microfiber roller. Love pro classic semi gloss from Sherwin Williams.
