Hi , I dont know when you had showed your video about the turn signal and hazard relays but I wanted to say thank you for showing where they are located, I have a 1999 SE and I also have the blue relay in the same spot as your bike , I needed to find the hazard relay and you helped me with that so I tapped the little bell in hopes of seeing more helpful hints from you , William
Yes! You're totally right ! I placed LEDs instead of Bulbs and it flashes 2X too fast, because I imagine it's because the internal resistance of the LED is much greater. I therefore buy an electronic flasher, it is he who gives the Tempo! :) and I have to remove the top case to access the fender on which the flasher should be located according to the technical book.
This video reminds me of when I was working for a bus company. A customer had a difficult time locating the turn signal flashers. When he did, he sent a letter to the company complaining. The letter got forwarded to the engineering department. They were going to have me write a response, but honestly, I would have said "You're right, we should move it to a more logical spot. I didn't put it there, and the people that did were promoted. They won't let me move it." The company decided they could write some flowery words to say, effectively "sorry, we aren't going to change it" without my help.
A lot of Chrysler products in the '60s and '70s had the flasher hidden behind the ashtray, I don't even want to get started writing as I remember the strange places different car makers hid parts when I was a mechanic. I couldn't handle it now, too many cars out there now, all computerized.
My cars are old. I'm used to one computer running everything. I was watching a Mechanic's youtube channel and he showed a car with 50 computers. My parent's car is like a Star Trek ship. A touch screen and menus controls everything. When that crap messes up NOTHING will work. it's not for me, either. I'm old enough that I figure I can drive older cars the rest of my life and not have to fool with any of that.
I guess your parents can just drop it off at the dealer and drive a rental if something goes wrong. I hope I can enjoy that life someday, I'm happy for them.
GOT A QUESTION FOR YOU. I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO CONVERT ALL OF MY BRAKE\TAIL LIGHT BULBS TO LED WITH THE EXCEPTION OF THE BULB AT THE TOP RIGHT CORNER OF THE TRUNK IF YOUR STANDING BEHIND MY GL1500 SE. IF I ATTEMPT TO CHANGE THAT SPECIFIC BRAKE\TAIL LIGHT BULB, I GET ERRATIC FLASHING FROM RUNNING LIGHTS THAT SHOULD NOT FLASH. LED FLASHERS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED UNDER THE TRUNK, SIDE MARKER LIGHT FLASHER KIT IN THE TWO FRONT POCKETS, AND TRUNK SIDE MARKER LIGHT FLASHER KIT IS INSTALLED. THIS WAS OCCURRING EVEN BEFORE I INSTALLED THE FLASHER KITS. GO FIGURE.
Not sure what would cause that. Did you try a different LED bulb? old style (incandescent) bulb works good? I would have to have it in my shop to poke around at it to get to the bottom of it. Did you look at the rest of my videos on changing over to LED, there might be something in one of them that might help. I'm not a bike mechanic, just a truck driver, but I used to be a full time car mechanic back in the '80s and still do all of my own repairs on everything I own. I'm not up to date on all the new technology.
@@57bagre I did try two different LED bulbs same make and model from super bright led but, the results are the same. The only way around it is to leave that one incandescent bulb in that pocket up top as far as I can see it. I have previewed all of your vids on the topic.
Hello! I love your videos since I have no idea of how anything on a semi truck works. And i know this has nothing to do with this video. But every time my truck breaks down and come to your channel and try to find out what and how. I’m a semi truck owner who recently has to manage everything since I got a divorce and I got a semi truck out of it lol long story short my big question is that how often does a 2014 t680 Kenworth has to have the overhead done? I’m afraid I don’t have anyone to ask who would know this answer.
Most highway trucks can go 1/2 million miles or more before the valve and injector adjustment should be done. On a local truck it should be done more like 1 or 2 hundred k. I don't know if you knew, I'm not a truck mechanic, only an owner operator, I was a full time car mechanic like back in the '80s but I like doing all my own repairs on almost everything I have. I don't mind answering questions if I know how but I don't know much about anything new out there. Thanks for watching.
I'm trying to find out why my flashers are on all the time with the ignition on I ask and every time I ask it sends me a different direction like we need a rocket scientist hey I know give Joe he'll answer the f****** question why are my flashers always on
These resistors do draw current because they're wired parallel along side each light, not in series, to add more current draw to the old style flasher.
@@57bagre Yep. Adding a resistor in parallel will increase the current. The LED draws so little, some flashers won't work. Sometimes you can get flashers that aren't current dependent, but sometimes it's easier to add a resistor. Yes, adding a resistor in series will limit current, but the resistors added to make flashers work are added in parallel. For more info, search "series and paralle circuits" and Kirchoff's voltage law, and Kirchoff's current law.
@@williamzoom They're thermal flashers, designed for incandescent lamps that draw much more current than an led. The flasher heater is in series with the light, and the LED doesn't draw enough current to get the heater warm enough to cause the bi-metallic strip to bend, so there's no flashing. That's why the resistor is added, in parallel to the LED to draw more current to allow the thermal flasher to work. It's well documented how that works. Now, an electronic flasher switches the 12V to the lamp regardless of current - it doesn't work with a heater and bimetalic strip and thus the parallel resistor is not needed. That's different than the series resistor that is needed for all LEDs (Because you never get a voltage source that exactly equals the LED voltage drop, as that will change with temperature, current, etc.) Those are built in to many LED lights for cars and motorcycles, so you can just connect them to 12V. Only when you buy "just an LED" do you need to add the series resistors. These aftermarket, replacement LEDS have it added, already for convenience. As I said, they are totally separate from the parallel LED needed to get SOME flashers to work.
