4 years ago me and my wife decided to make a new garden with a roof garden in the back. Our old fence was this Douglas larix life edge type fence. I didn’t want to throw away the board cuz I knew they would fit perfectly design wise on the walls of the roof garden. My wife however wanted to throw them away cuz they look real old and dirty. I said no are you kidding me. These board are priceless. I managed to persuade her her. I made straight boards out of the life edge and sanded the very lightly with that same festool sander you are using. The came out wonderful. Stacked them away for a year on the attic cuz even though the garden was finished that year I didn’t have the time to build the roof garden. Year after that the boards were really dry and I started to build the roof garden. Took everything 3 years to build the garden with roof garden in the back. That’s because I do have to work as well. It’s finished now and really looks stunning. My wife is really glad we didn’t throw away these old life edge boards. All and all it came out well. Greetings John from Holland Amsterdam
SO happy I found this RU-vid video!!! I am using OLD 2 x 4's to frame an enclosure for my breezeway and was wondering how to do exactly what you have explained and demonstrated here!! Now, I am headed back outdoors with new knowledge and enthusiasm! Thumbs up!!!
Thanks for sending the link. I am learning how to work with wood after a lifetime in the food industry. I learned plenty from the video, and using reclaimed wood is saving me lots of money. Each mistake is a learning experience.
I built a desk for a friend out of reclaimed wood. For those that don't want to spend over $450 for a brush sander you can do what I did and wash the wood w/ water mixed w/ bleach and peroxide using a stiff mop scrub brush. The bleach and peroxide will kill any mold on the wood and the brush gets the dirt out. Then, after removing the nails, I ran the boards through my planer just enough to flatten and smooth the hard edges but not enough to remove the character. For my finish I applied Varathane's matte polyurethane. I don't know how it compares to what John is using in the video but I personally like oil based products better. I used a Purdy brush to apply and it looked great. The matte finish has a little bit of sheen but not a lot at all and allows the grain to show through very well. Varathane's matte finish is designed to be used for floors so it is super durable.
I swear that every time I am about to do something and I don't know how to do it you post a video answering all of my questions! This is going to help a ton with my kitchen island build. Thanks a lot man!
Good explanations. Good camera work. Good techniques, and I like that you talk about at least 2 different approaches to both prep and also finishing. All in all, informative. Thanks.
@@John_Malecki For each word "good" that I used, replace that with the more accurate word "great." I mean that. I'm not a hobbyist. Thank you for this great how-to upload.
Hello John . That was a great video with awesome information. Starting my 3rd barn this week . Will definitely be getting that brush sander . By all means do more videos on the barn wood including the salvage operation as well as maybe something on species identification . Loved the technical information that you provided and Thx for sharing
Thanks Ghost, unfortunately i dont work with much more reclaimed anymore. But you cant go wrong with a species identification book or ripping down the rough sawn!
excellent job on the video, I like it! everything you say makes a lot of sense and you're easy to understand. your work looks great and I'll be buying these products for sure! I already have Purdy brushes and you can't get better than these...thanks!
Thanks for the info always stuck when it comes to the finish on a project, great advice by the the way them doors look great. Cheers Tim from wood 4 nothing
Awesome - working on a room threshold, with a large peice of really old circle sawn wormy chestnut plank. This video is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
Ok, you just cost me 400 bucks man. Really dig that sander. Also, I've been shooting GF High Performance Poly for years but I'm gonna have to try the Endurovar now. Thanks for sharing your hot sauce John!
Use the link in my bio if you buy brother. The tool is awesome. with your work i have also used it on old metal for some cool effect too. You can buy more aggressive and usable heads too
I am working on a project with rough sawn walnut. Trying to keep it rustic. I tried General finishes flat poly but it really made the wood look a little like plastic (think fake wood). I am trying the flatter than flat now to see how it looks. Maybe I will try the enduro if that does not work.
John thank you for the video. How about brush for makita brush sander, which one do you use or recommend as I understand there might be different kinds of them right?
1:45am. Hello, really got a lot of insight for my next project. I do have a question. I'm going to using barn wood siding in my bedroom. It's pretty weathered. For the best finish, would I just follow this video or do you recommend any extra steps? Thanks so much.
Over the past year I have found enough abandoned scaffold board and sleeper logs to build 30ft + of counter-height heavy-duty work bench. It looks beautiful, as i have carefully chosen each price for it's appearance. None of it has been treated in any way, yet has been sanded from coarse to fine. I love how it looks. For me, planing the wood below a millimetre and then sanding after has only aided the natural beauty of the timber. Yet it is bare and prone to stain. I do not recommend wax personally as putting a hot mug of tea on a scaffold board after it has been waxed has in the past resulted in a permanent mark. I bought five litres of Danish Oil, tested this on under sides and I am greatly unhappy with the results to use this as it seems (to me) to exaggerate the colours of the original wood. Some pieces look an awful unripe-banana green and others a beautiful sight. Without the oil the counters are a nice uniform matte tone, and having tested the undersides with a small dab are then distinct as different woods from different places. So I've decided I don't want to use oil. I was thinking a thin coat of varnish and after reading a lot, I decided shellac was generally recommended. I am no expert, yet my work, carefully measured and re-measured, planed and sanded, speaks for itself; it as all level and exactly as I designed it to be. I'd like to protect these benches yet keep them looking as they naturally do to as great an extent as I can. Can I get a clear shellac that will do the job without discolouration? Is shellac for me? Perhaps a matte a varnish? Any suggestions would be massively appreciated as I have to soon move past this construction phase and use these counter-tops day in and day out for the next few years
I am looking for a way to get farming oil and grease out of a board that has been saturated for years. The board is the bottom shelf of an old cupboard with square cut nails. Any suggestions?
I like this video. No non-sense 60L epoxy poor that cost hundreds of dollars to impress a few people that will eventually turn on you ;) Good, clear information that is helpful.
I have an old desk, top is tongue and groove. A little over 100 years old, top boards are coming apart. Do I take it apart and re -glue it or what? Thanks for your help.
Hi John. I am currently sawing reclaimed 1870 logs and building a cabin. The previous cabin I built with reclaim, I sand blasted and then applied expensive log home finish and it turned out cool. I was actually looking on youtube for how to sand very quickly tongue and grove pine for the ceilings in this new home. Wonder if the brush sander would be good?// I used a palm sander for a install on another of my homes, very very time consuming. So anyway, I will try the brush sander on 2 faces I get for my reclaimed that I will use on the exterior of my home. I will also try it on the 1 inch cuts I am taking with my sawmill on the interior of my logs of which I will use for the walls inside my home. But the tongue and grove for my ceilings, I have experience, very time consuming, I want to minimize the dust as well, just want to clean off the wood, doesnt have to be perfect, just needs to be able to absorb the cedar or clear poly, whats your thoughts on that so I can really make good time?
Hi John, have a question, have you ever gotten reclaimed wood with wood eating insects like the powder post beatle? Wondering how you’d deal with removing the. Or getting rid of them if you got a piece of would that you really wanted to use but saw evidence of something living it!? Thanks!
Great tips, thanks. Building a table top. What advice would you give me if my 4ft boards are slightly bowed/cuped and I don't want to use a jointer which would remove most of the textured layers?
Love some old wood. I plan to use so reclaimed wood to do a wainscot in my house. It is literally old barn wood. It is rough sawn...it was never planed when it was applied to the barn. The rough wood was painted red. Now the wood is aged and weathered to the point that there is barely a red tint to the gray wood. I want to keep that red tint so brushing the wood is not an option. I want to retain the rough look as well as the small amount of red that is there. Is there any product I can use on the wood that will more or less seal the wood but not change the color or character of the wood?
Which brush did you go with for projects like these? There are several brushes for the sander ranging from just a wire brush to 80 or 220. Thanks for your help. Great video.
I am trying to put up rough sawn polar boards I cut on my mill as paneling. some of the boards are stained I'm thinking this might be a good alternative to cleaning them up. I've just can't decide on what finish to use. I want to keep the rough cut look but don't want a shiny finish. would the Polly be good? how many coats should I use?
Do you need to do anything to ensure wood has no bugs in it. I just got some barn siding from a reclaimed lot and am going to make an interior barn door. Will the sanding and sealing ensure that any bugs in the wood will be killed?
unfortunately thats the only downside. Now we should do a plan to flip it, run a board over it like a drum sander. And collect at the source, BOOM. Best idea ever, out there for the world. Who's gonna snag it up?
To fill knots, here are some options. Use epoxy. Sytems 3 5-minute epoxy is easy to mix. Use it clear or add sawdust to it. If you want to color it, add in fresco dry pugments. Or you can use knife-grade clear polyester (Tenaxo is a good brand), clear or with sawdust or fresco colors, or alcohol based aniline dye powder (Lockwood is a well-known brand).
Hey! Great video man. Using some reclaimed wood for a bookcase - just curious what you would recommend in terms of stain and finish - I'm unsure what the best option would be in terms of using stain and what should follow after I stain it. Any thoughts would be super appreciated. Many thanks!
I always love your videos! Rewatched the one breadboard ends and finally bit the bullet on a domino! I'm curious since this video was a door do the number of coats you spray vary compared to a table top, I would think so. Typically I find that I have to spray 3+ coats to get equal to a brushed one. With the Enduro var do you use 3+ coats or is it good enough that you don't need as many coats? hope that makes sense! thanks for all you do keep up the awesome work!
Congrats on your new festool baby! I typically do 3-6 coats depending on how much build the piece has as well as how smooth the surface becomes. Its always variable and it'll depend how thin you spray as well!
Loved your video - you used plain ol' English! Thanks! Do you have any ideas for how to break reclaimed wood to a certain length? I just hate having to saw it off and then it exposes wood that doesn't match! I'm not needing it to be a very specific measurement, but with in an inch or two. I'm using it for wall art. Thank you for any ideas.
I woudl avoid pallet wood. Just cause you have no clue what was hauled on it. But you want your wood between 8-10% moisture content. If its drier than that im not sure its good for furniture
John Malecki I've HATED the whole pallet wood craze since it started for this reason. The crap that's soaked into them possibly. I was a firefighter for a good number of years and have seen green as well as purple flames from pallet fires. Always a bad sign.
Hey John, I have some nice reclaimed lumber I am trying to use but its got some cupping to it. If I want to keep the patina but straighten it out you suggest planing only the bottom?
How do you like that sprayer? I'm currently using a harbor freight sprayer with my compressor but my compressor isn't really equipped for spraying big projects. So I'm thinking of an electric sprayer vs getting a different compressor.
Hi! Just saw this video on Instructables and watned to ask you about the Makita Brush Sander --- how does it handle with reclaimed lumber that has a bit of nails on the surface? - i try my best to pull the nails out but sometimes they break...
Thanks for the video! Do you think these finishing techniques and the enduro var would make a smooth enough surface for a table? What about a table people might write on, like a conference table? Thanks again!
Great video! Just had a question for you. Do you need to combine the endura-var with the Minwax Polycrylic? Or can you get away with just using the Polycrylic? What is the advantage of using both? Thanks
Hey John....fantastic video and info. I just finished a reclaimed wood wall in my house. I used pallet wood and was wondering what should i use to seal it? Any help would be appreciated brother...keep up the great vids and thanks.
Hi John : Really enjoyed the video - question - I am having a farmhouse trestle dining room table made . The company that makes these table is really quite good. The quality appears top notch. The question relates to finish. The table is being made out of recycled barn wood. This company uses urethane to finish as a top coat. Some of their finished products have a very plastic look to them. Is there a recommendation to avoid or reduce the plastic look on the finish while still using urethane. To be honest I would be happy with just a wood finish but it appears that the urethane brings out the colour in the wood and protects. I would just like to avoid an overly plastic look and keep the finish as wood like as possible - any help would be appreciated - thanks a lot - Rodger
