usually there is no need to put tape on the olive unless there is a leak. a compression fitting is designed such that there is no need to use any tape.
@@andybarton234 I did it Andy! My only worry was that I wasn’t able to get one of the olives off and tried to carefully hacksaw it off, at an angle but still managed to take a tiny nick out of the end of the pipe. Because the second pipe was joined from above (kitchen mixer taps, I couldn’t get in with the tool cutter to cut the end off so I risked it. At first it leaked but a couple more turns of the spanner and it seems to be holding good! Only problem now is the plastic u-bend. For some reason the sink won’t drain and slurry keeps coming up. I can’t get a drain clearer bendy rod thing down, it won’t go. This is beyond me and I can’t afford a plumber 😔 Tough one, I bought heating oil with my last and it’s in but the boiler won’t start either. God know what to do now. But at least I have water thanks to your help 🤗
If there's no play in the pipe how can you the compression fitting on the pipe if you can't push the pipes apart can you get a slip compression fitting?
I don’t like those pliers chewing up the fitting I use two spanners. If you grip and tighten the two nuts (not the central fitting) at the same time you get a nice even torque on both sides. The PTFE tape should not be used unless directed by the manufacturer - the fittings are designed to work with metal-to-metal sealing surfaces.
Hiya Mark, thanks for taking the time to leave this comment. I do agree with almost everything you say. I would never use the grips (pliers) on the nut themselves as this would round off the nut. Using two spanner’s is really good advice, but have you ever tried using two spanner’s when the fitting is behind other fittings. Not everything can be done text book and this is where experience comes in to play. I like to teach in the real world and not text book.
I tend to agree with you about use of tape in this manner, but I have watched a lot of videos recently of people using this method - it appears to be a practice mainly used in the UK. But I see no harm in doing it so plan to use it when I install two 1/2" compression fit isolation valves in my crawl space next week.
I can't get that olive thing to properly cinch down into the copper pipe properly. I've done the half turn, full turn, etc... it never bites into the pipe deep enough. 1/2 inch pipe, 5/8 inch compression fitting.
You done great work and very easy method. Can I use this technique for 3mm air-conditioning liquid line fitting. Please reply me in comment as soon as possible
Thanks for the video! I'm going to try this to replace the turnoffs for the toilet and vanity when we do a bathroom remodel soon. Wondering why are the olives 2 different colors? What if I don't have an olive remover, is there anything else I could use if I have to switch the fittting out?
Hiya, the different coloured olives is because, some are copper and some are brass. I have never had a problem using either. If you don't have an olive cutter then it would be the old fashioned way and gently cut through the olive with hacksaw. Be careful though as sometimes you can mark the pipe and may not seal once new olives are used.
The other videos where they use the tape on the olive, they wrap the tape around the olive and tighten the nuts in one step, rather than tightening, then loosening the nuts, then wrapping the tape and re-tightening.
If you use a proper jointing compound on the olives you wouldn't have to take the fitting apart and compress the olive twice, which could over compress the olive as you said to be aware of !!!!!
Hi Andrew, now i use Fernox jointing compound, suitable for potable pipework. Back in 1969-1973 when i was an apprentice and up until it was banned for potable use we used 'Boss White'. At that time we had representatives from Conex and Kuterlite come to work and college and they would insist that thier products did not need anything to help make the joints watertight, just tightened dry. Needless to say our college instructors and the guy's we were apprentices under said use it, and have done so ever since.
I agree. This is a good procedure, but a better one is likely to use good pipe compound (i use Gasoila sot set) on the pipe ends and then slide the olive ferrule after it is slid over the doped coper of poly tubing. It is great that Andrew took the parts apart after using the PTFE tape. you can see that there is a small band of shinny metal, where it was cut clean through, even with his carful tightening, diminishing its usefulness somewhat. It is even possible to add two wraps of PTFE after the soft-set on top, but that is likely overkill except for a tricky repair drip. I find that a lot of people get hung up on "dry fit" requiring DRY fitting, which is not true. it is designed for dry fit, just like NPTF is, but if you read Parker's technical literature, they say that you should always use a sealant/lubricant's on dry fit NPTF. Just because it might seal dry, doesn't mean that it is best to seal it dry, and certainly does not violate code or the manufactures directions.
Teflon tape is completely unnecessary and makes no sense. Compression connection is metal-on-metal. It seals only if metal ring (ferrule ring) sits evenly, and tight around the interior of the body of the valve. In your example, as you tighten the nut, the nut actually cuts through the Teflon tape to make positive seal. So you are applying Teflon tape is just to look like you are doing super good job, while truth is just the opposite. Thank yoiu
