Thank you so much for showing us how to do this. I'm in Texas USA and I was quoted a price of over $200 just to replace a glass on a picture that my aunt had painted. I went to the glass company and took my frame and they cut me a piece of non glare glass I came home and replaced the picture but I did not know how to put the backing on. I appreciate your time in showing us how to do this God bless
Your instructions are wonderfully clear and easy to follow. After thrifting numerous art prints, original paintings, and two large rolls of craft paper, I'm now ready to add paper backings to my pieces, and feel confident in my ability to do so because of your video. Thank you!
Thanks! I used your method and the result was highly professional looking. I was able to deliver the painting to my collector confident that the frame job looked as good as a professional framer's work. I added a tag I printed with my logo and painting description on colored cardstock and it looked deluxe!
This is a very nice video! As I removed the original paper to clean mold from the inside of the glass, I am not so keen on using water to cause the paper to shrink. I have 91% isopropyl alcohol in a small spray bottle for this purpose. Just a light spray, as shown in the video, to lightly dampen the paper and it evaporates cleanly, quickly an completely, not reintroducing water moisture to the environment inside the frame.
I am researching how to apply dust covers to my frames. I do my best to keep water away from my prints and paintings. I was thinking I maybe be able to use isopropyl for this purpose
@@cubehire3653 I hope it works out for you! Just remember to keep the alcohol away from the print it self as it may make the ink or paint fade or bleed. If you just use it on the plain paper backing, it should be fine.
Thank you so much! I have a large mirror that lost its backing a long time ago. I understand that the backing adds a safety factor in case of the mirror glass breaks. I never would have guessed about the last step with a spray of water and heat to make the paper taut. Do you have any recommendations on the double stick tape? You mentioned there are tapes with varying qualities. Lastly, your voice reminds me of Ringo Starr's voice which I think is nice. :)
great video tutorial. thank you very much. I need to find that special double sided tape that has the cover you can peel off to reveal the sticky surface instead of just the regular double sided tape that is always sticky on both sides and doesnt have the cover. I think this only works on a sanded / bare wood frame as when I tried it on a painted back frame the tape pull right off and became a mess and I gave up.
Thanks for your feedback. Yes, there is a huge range of double sided tapes on the market, generally speaking the cheaper ones are more trouble than they are worth.
According to Google Kraft paper comes in a multitude of different colours. The paper is best drying slowly by placing in a warm dry ventilated room, don't use a blow dryer or heat gun, it was used in the video to speed up the process to illustrate how the paper dries over time.
I just bought an art print secondhand that was done like this, but the frame cracked and the screw that held up the wire to hang the print broke out. I'm not sure if I should/can fix it or if I should just go get a new frame :/
Can you provide info on the paper you use, a link would be appreciated. Also, if you want to use glue instead of tape, what glue? A link would be helpful there too. Thanks.
Thanks for your comments. The paper is just normal Kraft Paper. We used it in the old days to wrap up parcels. If you google "Kraft paper" you should be able to find a supplier local to you. It's also available in small rolls in stationery shops. There are different weights on the market, the heavier the paper, the better, for this job. As for glue, I try to avoid the stuff as there are so many good tapes on the market. Copydex used to be good for this type of job, and many others.
will try this way because adding the paper to the frame (as opposed to the vid showing the frame placed on the paper) almost always results in creases at the edge.
yeah I did it the wrong / opposite way as well and it became a mess and didnt work. this makes so much more sense to push the frame INTO the paper instead of fighting to try and alighn the paper to the frame.
Except, NEVER SPRAY WATER ON YOUR FRAME/ARTWORK. The last thing you want to do, especially if you are framing a photograph, is introduce any sort of moisture to the mix.
Hello! Where can I buy the self-adhesive Kraft paper? I found some at the Dollar Store, but I don't think it has adhesive for protecting the back of my frames
@@stephstremp You use a very light coating of glue applied with an appropriately sized brush or you can use double-sided tape as they did in the video.
Do we need to worry about breathability? Does brown kraft paper have breathability when using it as the dust cover on a canvas painting? How do we know if the paper we use on the back has breathability or is this even important, especially if using a floater frame?
The method shown here is used to seal the back of a frame to restrict the airflow access to the frame. With airflow comes dust, dampness, mites and bugs etc. The process shown would not be considered a hermetic seal, but If you require breathability then you would need to look at a vented back. (TBH a couple of pin holes in the paper top and bottom would achieve the same)
I need to back a 4'x5' piece. I can't find paper large enough to do a solid piece. Any suggestions on how to do this if I need to use more than one piece of paper?
Sorry, never tried joining pieces, so can't advise. According to google It is possible to get Brown Kraft Paper on rolls up to 4 or 5 feet wide. A full roll is quite expensive at those sizes though.
Butcher paper. The expensive kind. Or, if you have access to a box that a standard table comes in, also 4'x5' you can poach the card board or even remove the top paper (by separating the cardboard from the wavy bit in the middle. Measure twice, homie. Good luck!!!
Or, go to Goodwill and steal the paper from the back of the biggest, ugliest frame with decent backing. Probably cheaper than the xxl butcher/kraft paper. Cheers!
@@FrameAndDisplay What weight do you recommend using? Is 80 gsm enough? Looks like yours is pretty much like what I've got at home, just wanted to make sure :) This video is the best I found on this topic, thank you so much!
@@nickenniss Hi Luiza. I am sure 80gsm will work. The heavier the paper the better and more professional the finished job looks. Paper qualities and properties vary considerably and it is just a matter of having a go and seeing how it works with any particular paper. You also need to factor in how robust you need the back to be, thinner papers will be more prone to punctures from protruding wall hooks and the like.
