HOW TO FIT A SHOWER PUMP - Stuart Turner Showermate Review 

plumberparts how can I soundproof the pump ? Our pump was installed in the adjacent bedroom (no room in bathroom) and is currently not boxed in so is very noisy. Is it safe just to build a frame around it ? Would I add sound proofing to the inside ? Is their a danger it could get too hot ? Thanks

plumberparts sorry forgot to ask sometimes when I switch the shower on no water comes out until I turn a sink Tap on and then the shower kicks in and water comes out- what would likely be the cause of this ? Patreon singing - priceless mate

When is the album out 🎶😂

Thanks man!

No worries Kev, 1 year later!

Essex flange every time.

If the shower valve is passing water 💧 in the off position, You don’t give the location of the shower pump. If the location of the pump is in the loft, It should be a negative head pump , If not check the pressure switch. Don’t understand why 13 Amp spur switch is in the loft. Unless pump is located in the bathroom 🚽

If pumping hot only to a mixer tap make sure you use a Universal pump to ensure it starts every time. The higher pressure on the cold side of the mixer can prevent the flow switch on a positive head pump from working correctly.

Although best practice is to use either a top entry or side entry flange where possible, If the pump is to be located below the top of the hot water cylinder you can connect directly to the hot water supply. Just make sure you first angle the pipe upwards between 3 and 45 degrees and tee into the bottom cylinder. Refer to the installation guide for more advice. :)

@@StuartTurnerLtdHenleyonThames Just to clarify my understanding you can add a shower to a pipes shared with other outlets?

Hi Barry, it's maybe a little late to reply to this question but yes, depending on hot water demand and working pressures etc, gravity systems are still fitted and in some circumstances, they can be the best option for a customer.

Same

After posting this I disconnected the pump from the power and water connections to take a closer look at it. When I looked at the bottom of the pump I could see where crystals had formed on the outside of the motor where there is obviously a small leak. I then removed the covers on each end of the pump to have a closer look. Here you should be able to turn the motor shaft freely but it wouldn't turn. It was completely seized. I proceeded and removed the plastic wheels off either end of the shaft that are used to propel the water through the pump. I then clamped a vice grip on one end of the motor shaft and gave it a good hard twist to get the motor moving again it worked. I reassembled and connected the pump back up to the water and power supply. Before turning on the power I purged the pump. I then turned on the power and tried the shower again. It now works again but a small leak remains at one end of the motor. As far as I know you cannot get spare parts for motor for this particular pump. The motor is in one sealed unaccessible unit. So I was told by a Stuart turner agent in Ireland. I was left with no option but to order a new one or else a different model. I can assure you the leak was not caused by the water being too hot (65 degrees Celsius as mentioned in there manual) entering the pump. Tank emersion turns off at 50 degrees Celsius. Also the leak happened on the side where the cold water was connected not the hot. I reckon it's just a cheap crappy pump. I would not recommend it to anyone. Hope this helps someone out.

Although best practice is to use either a top entry or side entry flange where possible, If the pump is to be located below the top of the hot water cylinder you can connect directly to the hot water supply. Just make sure you first angle the pipe upwards between 30 and 45 degrees and tee into the bottom cylinder. Refer to the installation guide for more advice

Steven Moody an* Essex

@@StuartTurnerLtdHenleyonThames ....tee into the bottom CYLINDER?

yes...yes

Yes the hot supply from the CW tank should be slightly higher than the cold services to prevent scalding if the cold water tanks is drained.

Although best practice is to use either a top entry or side entry flange where possible, If the pump is to be located below the top of the hot water cylinder you can connect directly to the hot water supply. Just make sure you first angle the pipe upwards between 30 and 45 degrees and tee into the bottom cylinder. Refer to the installation guide for more advice

There aren’t filters in this model of pump so they will need to be fitted to the pipework before the pump to protect it from any system debris

A bit late to reply now, but sometimes you can get some debris left over from manufacturing the pump, as well as bits of limescale or dust or whatever from the tank. You don't want this getting into your shower valve.

Fit a bigger or secondary tank in the loft.

Or you can link a second 50 gal tank to the first. You do not need a second ball valve, just link them from the outlet piping and tee that pipework together.

He didn't, and he used 15mm pipe instead of 22mm. Cut a few corners which is a bit misleading.