Simple, don't use cleats, use clips, as in the olden days. Then you can even walk if you wish without fearing of slipping or falling over or having a waddling style walk.
With my size 50 feet, other factors come into play when fitting cleats. Things like not hitting chainstays or the front wheel when cornering. Maybe Conner can do a video on fitting cleats for riders with big feet.
A pretty good video except 1 thing. The claimed loss in efficiency when bringing the cleat futher back is just false. Bringing the cleat futher back stabilises the ankle joint, limiting the degrees of movement there. This can benifit the efficiency for some riders, it only limits short jump intervals.
Only drawback to having the cleat further back, even as far back as you can get it, is it may hinder you being able to pedal at high cadences. But the average rider shouldn't be trying to emulate the super high pedaling cadences of some of the pros anyway, as they may not benefit as much due to their general lower fitness level and aerobic capacity. Otherwise, it won't cause you injury, as inaccurate placement further forward might.
@@achn2b couldnt agree more. I have seen some riders with their cleat pretty far back spinning at 105 rpm, but that's quite rare. It can trigger problems for people having slight leg length differences (because the footangle can provide some wiggleroom there) but having the cleat too far forward is a far greater risk.
Moreover in short riders riding short cranks the further back cleat position will lower the saddle height and allow a more aero position. If on a tt bike the furthest back position is the most powerful
This. I place my cleats (or feet on flat pedals) far back to relieve stress from my achilles tendons on long endurance rides and while working full time as a bike messenger. Being as comfortable as possible as long as possible is priority in these situations.
Check out the position of cleats on your current cycle shoes - fore/aft and angle. Use this as a guide to the placement of the cleats on your new shoes. And here's another tip: I've done a lot of long distance cycling, and have found that moving the cleats farther back relieves "hot foot" by transferring the contact point to the widest part of the foot and reducing pressure on nerves in the foot.
I think it would be more of a coincidence if you had just been given a unicorn and were trying to learn how to shoe it. GCN is generally streamed to cyclists
With the current 24k views of this video and, let's say, an average cyclist changes his/her cleats once a year, there are 67 viewers of this clip who are changing their cleats today.
The best bit of info for me was dangling your feet to see if the turn inward or outward and the appropriate adjustment. That will protect my knees I think.
Good tips. Thank you. On the cleat bolts I use thread lock instead of grease. I have had the unfortunate experience of having a couple of bolts drop out of the cleat while riding, leaving me with only one left. Unclipping was impossible because the cleat just spun on the one bolt. Very dangerous and it proved to be quite embarrassing. It caused me to fall over while attempting to unclip and then flail around like a beached fish until I could get my shoe off my foot. Quite the sight.
The Look cleats shown in the video have a rubber plug in the middle, which can be screwed to the sole and stay there when you have to change cleats next time. So no need to draw on your shoes just to keep the position with new cleats.
Great video...... been putting on my own cleats with years but when I was new to cycling and needed them replaced...... I asked them and I never had ANY knee problems then or now!!! But this just speeds up the whole process for me!!! Thanks 😀
Worth saying having your cleats too far back is NOT inefficient. There have been a few studies that showed no efficiency loss with having your cleats along way back. Many bike fitters will tell you there are nearly no disadvantages to a very rearward clear position. Adam Hansen and Alex Doswett’s both have their cleats quite far back.
Mid foot cleats? Can we get a video comparing traditional cleat placement to mid foot? She claims moving the cleat back is inefficient, but from what I've seen in other videos it seems more efficient. But you lose a little snap on your sprint power.
I use 5Nm torque. I got to this figure by tightening to what I would describe as tight using one of those blue handled Allen key, rode an hour and tightened, repeating 3 times you get to the stage it doesn’t nip up a bit. They don’t work loose at that and will come out easily even when the bolt head is damaged from walking on it! That measured 5 Nm.....just checked. Now I’ve got that figure I don’t need to fanny about again lol
I use 2 bolt SPD cleats and 4nm when first fitting to new shoes, then ride, adjust, ride etc... and when happy with position I tighten them to 5nm. I haven’t had any problems with removing them later (even years later) nor any becoming loose at all.
Something I didn't hear you say that I would say is more important than anything. Once you have fitted your new cleats if you had no issues with your shoe/cleat position previously then when you mount up and your trainer pay attention not only to the way you look, but do you feel like you want to turn your foot. Or you feel like you need to adjust your foot. Or your knee feels a little tight. I find if you pay close attention to this you will be able to dial both cleats in perfect your legs and knees will tell you exactly where they need to be.
My feet roll in towards the bike due to years of football ankle injuries - to prevent this I now use adjustable insoles to support the bridge of my feet. This has stopped the issues I was having plus my knees now track properly when cycling. One of the benefits of having a proper bike fit session.
Misinformative. Putting the cleats as far back as they will go does not lead to a big inefficiency and will suit most riders (except those who focus on sprints perhaps).
Modern cycling shoes have very stiff soles meaning it doesn’t really matter where the pedal is under the shoe in terms of power transfer. A rearward position can ease strain on the calf, prevent the toes curling inside the shoe and is certainly not inefficient. Having a very rearward clear position also lengthens the effective saddle height, meaning you can lower your saddle (and therefore your bars) which means better aerodynamics.
I've come to prefer more of a midfoot position. Some good adaptors out there to help get the cleat back far enough. Huge problem with KEO's is that they are narrow and that causes me to roll my ankles while walking or just standing. Particularly rolling to the outside. They have nearly caused sprained ankles. My SPD SL are a little wider but I've switched to the KEOs and like them. Just need a wider platform for walking etc. No solution found yet.
Very useful, thanks! You'd think there'd be some rule of thumb for cleat position, like say one-third along the shoe or something, but I've never heard of one so always just guess. I'd never thought of actually feeling for foot bones!
... I use "MTB" Shimano cleats ( cause I like being able to walk at the rest-stops or into buildings as sometimes you are not allowed to w/ "road-bike shoes/cleats) ... now ... a trick ... after you have installed the cleats ... remove the inside "footbed" ... and cover the slots on the inside w/ tape ... ( I hate wet socks from walking in damp grass in the morning)
Shimano's instructions say to draw a line from the mark on one side of the shoe to the other. Then put the center of the cleat on that line or a little toward the rear of the shoe.
@@craigherriot4026 You are right, Craig. I should have mentioned that this line is diagonal, not perpendicular to the center line of the shoe. Still, where the line crosses the center of the shoe is the starting point for placing the cleat. So, the cleat ends up somewhat to the rear of the ball of the big toe.
I disagree with cleats back causing problems. There’s quite a bit of research (Steve Hogg for one) into cleats back or even mid foot cleat position in reducing load on the calves and engaging the glutes more, which becomes an exercise in fast twitch v slow twitch muscle fibres. Top end speed might be ever so slightly impacted, but no need to sprint when your pushing power for longer than everyone else and off the front. I ride bont vaypors with cleats back. Lower saddle height, lower front end, lower centre of gravity. Give it a try 👍
I would happily listen to Steve or anyone trained by him over generic tosh.. Cleats rearward and saddle lower as a result, solved years of issues I had stemming from foot instability
Thanks so much for the videos; really approachable for a beginner like me. You asked for questions and I have one... the marks on my tape from the balls of my feet are too far away from the marks on the cleats! They simply won't meet up so where do I go from here please? K
What do i do and why is my outside line mark on shoe further back than inside? I have no idea how Or why we need lines if they aren’t going to Line up. So should i put mid mark On cleat on inside mark or outside mark?
This is my first road ru-vid.comUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA and I have taken it out a handful of times and so far it is exceeding all of my expectations. I didn’t want to break the bank on a first bike and the herd is a great option for getting a fast bike with reliable components. I plan on riding this bike for many years to come. Thank you Sava!
You should have mentioned a torque wrench. Over tightening the bolts are the best way to damage the sole and ruin the shoe. Or to not tighten enough and have your cleat move. As well as I disagree with having the cleat back, specially for people riding longer distance or longer time.
If you are not a pro rider or someone who is chasing marginal gains the easiest way to place your cleats in a position that is kind to your knees is to smash the fore/aft as far back as possible (closest to the heel). This will give less leverage on knee/achilles tendon. The most important part is the angle of the cleat, the trick to sit on a bench with your knees at 90 degrees and feet floating in the air is a good starting point to realize the natural position of your feet. But the easiest way to know that your angle of the cleat is correct is to be on the bike and make sure that you have equal float for your foot to move both in and out in all positions in your pedal stroke. I.e. wiggle your heel left and right at top of pedal strike, quarter past, bottom and quarter to and make sure you have float in all positions.
A great video for someone who has never worn cycling shoes before (Don't tell anyone but I used toe clips for years). The advice given in the video is perfect. Everything was aligned and secured, I was clipped to my pedals and set off to explore this new world only to end up in a heap on the floor having not got more than 2 meters still attached to my bike!! So funny. All the gear and absolutely no idea. :-)
Learning to get in and out of cleats is an adventure. You know what else was challenging after I thought I had built up my confidence with getting in and out of the cleat? Doing it while going uphill LOL!!!
Hi Pedal Wrenchers, see as a MTB sprint World Record holder yes aehy had to take advice on equipment, the lovely Jessica chatting away obviously knows about cleats therefore pedal adjustment, you know when you're selecting shoes it's all power-to-weight ratio so a slight head-wind can easily eat up 2g of weight reduction you've spent an extra $250 to get, returning to Jessica's tuition consider my guiding light - 2 velcro straps only because while you're adjusting pedals and/or if mechanical failure you're stuck in your pedals so if you're stuck you need a tree, fence, traffic lights post, stop sign to prop and get your foot out of your shoe or you're on your head, some think laced SPD shoes cool and wind-up shoes cool and no aehy don't want to wreck your fun however you're not getting a foot out of laced shoes and wind-ups fail yes aehy've seen wind-up motorcycle boots so roadworthy for 350kph mechanism failure, only velcro straps will be legal in the British Commonwealth phased in from this year until deadline 2025.
I simply use an Ergon Pedal Cleat Tool. Various versions for different cleat types: www.ergonbike.com/en/product.html?a=bikefitting Here's the one for Shimano SPD_SL: www.ergonbike.com/en/product-details.html?a=bikefitting&anr=48000001&s=tp Eliminates a lot of the squinting and guesswork.
I thought that all SPD-SL cleats were the same. Boy did I ever find out differently. I bought a pair of Bontrager shoes, had them fitted with SPD-SL cleats which came with the pedals. Fast forward to many rides and countless GCN RU-vid videos on just about everything (the answers to all of learning curves), I decided to invest in power meters. I purchased a pair of Garmin RS200 SPD-SL power meters. They arrived yesterday, so I thought I would just be changing out the pedals and off I would be with using them. Not the case. The Bontrager cleat shape is different from the Garmin shape. Which brought me to watching yet another fabulous video for do-it-yourself cleat installation.
It is still below freezing in Idaho Falls most of the time, but I saw the first road cyclist of Spring today! I'm a velomobile (no ice on the road) or fat tire (ice on the road) commuter. I'm not a road cyclist. Road cyclists only come out when there is no chance of ice, and they pedal ultralight UCI legal triangle bikes that have nothing on them. When the snow and ice arrives, they all disappear while cycling commuters continue to pedal on. So, I know Spring is on the way! The road cyclists are starting to come back!
Does anyone have any recommendations for off-road/trail cycling shoes for people with wide feet? At the moment I just use flat sole shoes as cycling shoes just crush my feet. After 10 mins the pain is unbearable. I'm pretty sure its worse than child birth. :)
Well, perfect timing because I'm starting to think that I should MAYBE get them for my indoor cycling. I could have probably saved smashing my female parts last night when I lost contact with one of my pedals... 😂🤦🏻♀️
I have Shimano shoes with Shimano yellow cleats. The problem is, when I push the cleats all the way forward its still doesn't line up with the ball of the big toe. Wtf.?
Tinkle tinkle on the road wish I'd torqued with the proper load. Hands and knees on the tarmac looking for those pesky plates and bolts in a downpour is no fun - trust me. Number four on my top ten cycling errors you could have avoided!
How much of a faux pas would it be to use a triathlon shoe over a road shoe? Due to injury, I have nerve issues in my hands meaning I often struggle with the different kind of clips and fastenings found on many road shoes. Although I expect they won’t hold up in the elements as well due to the lightweight and breathable materials used, I can’t help but feel that the large Velcro strap adopted on many tri shoes would overcome my issues, but how would this sit in the cycling community?
nice video. of course we apply a bit or pressure to get in and out in pedals. how tight should screws be into the shoe. i was surprised there's no specification in the shoe/cleat instructions. comment below states 5-6nm. is it right?
Can anyone please advise… fitted new cleats to my new shoes and I am getting pain/numbness across the ball area of my both feet…any ideas to rectify?..thanks Dave
You mention having one leg longer than the other, but what if your feet are different length, which is quite common? I have just had 2 years of knee pain and physio after I had set the fore aft in relation to each foot with spd cleats
I like Crank bros Candy 1's on my road bike, but of course 2 hole cleats, what's the best adaptor system for road shoes to convert for 2 hole cleats? What the advantage of 3 holes vs 2 hole!? Thanks !
Should the shoes fit tight on the tip of my toes (mostly the big toe), or should I get a size bigger to have 0.5 centimeters extra room to fit it more comfortable as I would do with all my walking shoes? I have both options here, the one with a little extra room are super more comfortable but I don't know it that could be a problem. and maybe the tighter ones will get a little softer after a few rides.
Thank you gcn. I am new to the world of cycling, so I have now invested in a copy of the maintenance bike book and am as far as page 25 Item 12 and 13 are I feel wrong.
I wish I saw this video last week. I put the cleats on my new shoes and I developed some soreness on the outside of my right foot (the cuboid) after a 20 miles ride. I think there is some adjustment work to do.
Instead of using grease I use clear silicone glue on my cleat bolts, this does two things keeps out 100 percent of water and or moisture so now no rusted stuck in bolts and even if a bolt would become loose it cannot back out on it's own and become lost.
Really helpful. One question: When you angle the cleats for your feet, you obviously have to move one side or both away from the centre point you've set up. Should the movement be equal on the inside and outside of the foot, or should the movement away from the centre point be more on one side that the other?
@@krug123 Not necessarily because when you angle the cleat according to the individual, it will move the pre-marked position for pedal axle to ball of foot alignment.
Wouldnt sitting on the table like that change the angle of your hips, since it is a flat surface? Cant get a clear visual of the situations involved. Multiple angles are appreciated.
