Ever wanted to fix a crack or hole in a fibreglass boat? In this short video I take a minute to fix up an old bad repair! CONTACT ME : ---------------------- IG: / matthewpkelly Email: mattkellyfishing@gmail.com
I’m learning a lot about boat repair by watching your videos and reading the comments. Keep up the good work! I appreciate your enthusiasm for life long learning. If you don’t learn something new every day, it’s a day wasted.
Due to fibreglass being flexible there would be pressure and lots of movment with the bottom and walls. You would need to continue thickening that area . Also LONGER STRIPS . Not bad thou. You have the right idea. I love seeing another Aussie on RU-vid. Hi from Tassie
Hi Matt. Just starting on replacing a rotten floor (will put in new stringers and 18m ply floor. So much one google, but you give very sound followable tutorials. Mines a 14ft Marlborough. Thank you for sharing your wisdom.
Very helpful Matt, as I just discovered a crack in the hull at the transition point between the bottom hull and the transom. After viewing your video, I believe I can make a good repair, Thank you, Mike Milam '70
Nice. If you want to save work and not fear push through, place a ziplock taped on the exterior firmly. Helps with a smooth surface and epoxy won’t stick to it
You did a great job just covering so someone can see and perhaps remember if they haven't had their hand in it just to get back in to be ready and confident to do a repair.
Im about to embark on this "journey" haha so this was great and I read some of the comment, very helpful. Love constructive advise and QUEENLANDER! hahaha
I enjoy your videos mainly because your just a guy having a go. Maybe list or show the products you use , where you got them and what they cost. Would like to have a go at a project boat one day myself
Hi Keith - Cheers for the comment. I’m absolutely just a guy having a go (certainly don’t know what I’m doing! 😉). I think I’ll do a full video with what I used and how much it all cost. I think that could be pretty valuable!
@@DeepSeaDaddy111 That resin is a Bunnings Fibreglass kit right? It is Polyester resin? (the label says Styrene in fine print) I have a lot of this and want to fix my boat (very old Bertram Carribean 3.8) I When I did the floor it seems to not like to stick to the other older fibreglass very well (easily lifted or pried off). Any idea why this is the case and what resin I should use?
@@kangacrew540 YEah, thanks for your comment. I ripped the whole floor out and did it and the stringers again from beginning. Thanks for your help though.
Good simple video and repair. Looking at the state and age of the boat, I would recommend that the restoration of the boat would be extended right along that Strake, since it is a critical structural element in the boat and has probably failed because the area was flexing too much. I would suggest sanding the hull back along the strake/chine and *filleting* with *epoxy resin* mixed with an epoxy filler powder to make a lightweight filler that is highly adhesive. Fill (to about 2/3 full) the strake and squeegee it smooth with a cheap rubber scraper or similar. Then make a new batch of resin, and brush it on neat, onto the fillet and along the surrounding hull down the length that needs strengthening. This is for laying a woven glass tape into, 100mm wide, at least 200gm, wet it out and let it cure. You will have doubled the strength of that chine. If you don't have the filler powder, use the glue powder and some fine sander dust, eg from a belt sander bag. Epoxy resin is marginally stronger than your polyester, and adheres twice as well to old fibreglass, which is really important. Happy fishing...
How thick of a layer of resin can you get in one pour? I believe the larger the volume, the better the cure, due to it needing the thermal reaction around it?
I think he did a good job. The biggest thing I would point out, is that your glass was not wide enough. So you need more surface area for the fiberglass to stick to to be sure that the repair does not come off or pop out later on. One other suggestion would be to also sand down a small area on the outside and then lay glass everywhere that you send it this way when you’re standing there, you don’t just stand the glass off that you just applied. I hope that makes sense. Great video you did a good job.
Hi mate . Looking for advice as to the best place to get the fibreglass supplies . Not easy to find stuff in central west nsw. Just about to start a project 1985 swiftcraft half cabin
That resin is a Bunnings Fibreglass kit right? It is Polyester resin? (the label says Styrene in fine print) I have a lot of this and want to fix my boat (very old Bertram Carribean 3.8) I When I did the floor it seems to not like to stick to the other older fibreglass very well (easily lifted or pried off). Any idea why this is the case and what resin I should use? Thanks for all your videos.
Good job bud, sand back the outside hull where the hole is and give it 1 coat of chop and 2 coats of resin spreading layers of resin longer then the hole size. The bunnings repair kit will have plenty for that but avoid the bunnings resin kit for transom and stringers or your pockets will cry. KEEN ON THE NEXT VID!!
Thanks mate! You’re dead on, when I flip the hull over to do the hull painting I’ll be doing a good fix on it from the outside. Agreed on bunnings prices for this stuff! You’ll see in my next video I’ve got all the supplies from a direct Fibreglass supplier - Much more viable price point!
That resin is a Bunnings Fibreglass kit right? It is Polyester resin? (the label says Styrene in fine print) I have a lot of this and want to fix my boat (very old Bertram Carribean 3.8) I When I did the floor it seems to not like to stick to the other older fibreglass very well (easily lifted or pried off). Any idea why this is the case? SHould I trip it all back and use 'epoxy' resin? And for the helpful comments guys! Thanks for all your videos.
Honestly, I don't actually know. I was given the recommendation to use poly because it has a wax built into it that effectively rises to the surface to seal it from air and help it set. Apparently epoxy can also be more brittle, but it looks like that's an ongoing debate. I've also read that epoxy can stick to any surface, whereas poly is best applied over previous poly. So ultimately it comes back to what your boat currently is, and what you've got access to. There are MANY people who know more about this than me, I've just gone off the recommendations of others. They both feel/work very similarly in my experience.
anyone have any info on why he chose the interior instead of the exterior to repair? wouldn't it resist future damage better from the exterior since water pressure would only push the new glass on harder?
Short vid, you kind of skipped the cleaning bit before epoxy to remove dirt and oil or anything like that, gloves and mask working tih epoxy and fibre, you can also soak the fibre bfor laying it down.
If you use resin from a auto store or big box store it won’t be strong or last. The resins they sell are cheap and old. You always need to use fresh resin like you get from a boat supply or West System resin. Old resin doesn’t hold up. I hope you used resin with was added on this job since you didn’t use a backer board .
Not just gloves. Catalyst/ hardener is what gets into lungs as you breathe it in an eventually fucks you up from the inside out. Get a proper organic mask mate.
your using poly resin not epoxy, next time tear the chop strand instead of cutting it and maybe a few more larger overlapping layers... you really put hardly anything in the area.
Yep, absolutely right on both counts - The beauty of putting these videos out there is all the feedback I'm getting on what to do next! Thanks for sharing.
@@MattKellyFishingGlad you took Seven's comment the right way. He really is correct. I'm sure that your repair will hold just fine, but as far as "doing it by the book" Seven is telling you right. It is a good video though. It is a great service to put it up and show people that aren't experts that they really can do their own repairs.
