Honestly thank you so much for this. It’s 104 here and no AC was rough. Also the nice calm music is a nice touch when you are stressed trying to get something fixed.
Excellent video Dave, clear, concise right to the point. Love the music as well ... I haven't pulled mine apart as yet, being right hand drive hoping the resistor is behind the glove box and not under the steering wheel. I'll find out tomorrow when I attack it. Cheers. Completed the fix today, a 400mm phillips head driver did the trick, able to get to both top and bottom screws from the glove box opening, pulled out the resistors and re-soldered the spring loaded contact. Replaced the cabin filter whilst the glove box was open like a new car ... ha ... Thankyou again Dave , keep those helpful hints coming. Hooroo ...
Thx for the video. Just replaced this in my wife’s 2011 Fit. I’m not as flexible as I was 40 years ago but I still have enough (barely) to get under and around the things I needed to. 😊 My 3.5” stubby Phillips screwdriver was actually a bit too long to be ideal as another part was interfering. 1/4” smaller would have been better if I could have found it.
Wow I’m at a dealer right now waiting for oil change. they were going to charge 180 just to “diagnose” the blower motor issue, so glad I saw this. Thanks!
Hugely helpful! But rather long. Nevertheless, a massive and well-deserved THANK YOU for taking the time to make this and save me a bundle. Now, I'm off to the nearby pick-a-part for a cheap $5 OEM replacement if i can't solder mine back into shape.
THANK YOU DAVE!!!! I live rural Australia (yes in a Honda Jazz 🤣🤪 -) 40C and the fan stops short of blasting your eyebrows off. Taking the car in for a problem is a whole day expedition to a mechanic. So this video is greatly appreciated. Ordering the part now. Thank you. thank you.
Excellent video - thank you very much! I don’t know how you were able to get both of your hands on the screwdriver for the bottom screw like that… I could not contort my body and big mitts on the little stubby, which slowed me down a bit but I got the job done and saved lots of money. Thanks again!
Nice! I knew it was the blower resistor, same thing happened to a few other cars I've seen. Thank you so much for including the part number too. It's a small detail but a good one 👍
Thought I had a bad resistor for the blower motor on a 95 Bonneville. It was the motor going bad. New motor and resistor, the 3 lower speeds were lower than they should be. So put the original resistor back in and it all worked as it should.
As a warning to others, don’t run the resistor outside of its hole. The airflow of the blower cools it as it will become very hot. If you run it outside that airflow, it will quickly overheat and break. I speak from experience.
@@josephbernard6782 I am curious to know why they fail in the first place. I've had about 100 cars in my lifetime and this is the first time I am every having to replace one of these.
@@prohomevideos it could be that something is wrong with the blower fan staying on or spinning fast enough, and the resistor is the first thing to go when it messes up.
If this issue keeps happening (had it happen twice in two weeks to me) I'd suggest checking cabin air filter and replacing the blower motor fan. It's three screws and actually easier than the resistor, although the part is more expensive. My fan was shot and the resistor kept blowing out.
Mine just quit 9/2024... Do the resistor AND the blower motor. The motor causes the problem!!! Also, to open the resistor, just straighten two of the tabs ( in this video, he squashed them). There was TSB on this faulting the fan motor. It draws too current and over heats the resistor. Motor and resistor are about $40 and can be changed in 30 minutes 😊
Super helpful. I assume if im getting no blow out of any setting it's the full blower motor vs. The relay? Or should I just go ahead and replace both at the same time?
Hmm. I would star with the relay. In my experience, blower motors usually die a slow death. They get slower and slower and maybe make some bearing noise. You could just plug the new relay in to test (without even messing with the screws), and take it back if it's not the problem.
That’s a good idea, David. I actually thought about it, but then thought about all the other parts I have found over the years that I’d saved for cars I no longer even have.
I made this repair about a month and a half ago, but now there’s a burning smell in my car and I’m only working on high power again. Any idea what I should check before replacing it again?
Sounds like the resistor went out again, Ben. It could be a defective part, or your fan motor could be going bad, causing the resistor to overheat and fail.
What if there is no air coming out the vents? I already checked the fuses and replaced resistor and still no air from vents on any setting. I do hear the ac clutch engage when i select ac mode but still no air out of vents. What do you think it can be?
I replaced the resistor with a genuine Honda part and the fan functioned properly for 3 days. Then the issue started again were the fan only functions on high #4. What are the other possibilities for this problem.
Very likely. Unless the blower has burned out now. If it went out suddenly, it's probably the resistor. If it started slowing down and died or made other noises, that would point to the motor.
I replaced it twice and each time it only lasted a few days. I guess I'll check if anything is blocking air from getting to the resistor and maybe try installing "upside down" it's not 100% obvious to me which way the arrow is supposed to go.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks. I swapped out the 30A fuse for 25A hoping it would blow the fuse rather than the resistor, but didn't help. There's plenty of air coming from the fan and it sounds fine, but suppose it could be failing in a way that draws too much current through the resistor without blowing the fuse, not sure what it's rated for.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Replacing the blower motor did the trick 👍🏻 The old motor is kind of stiff it doesn't spin freely. I stepped down to a 20A fuse and it still didn't blow makes me wonder why they let it consume up to 30A, seems like that would definitely blow out the resistor since under 25A also did that.
@@jonathandill3557 It might just be badly designed. The problem is that a solder connection breaks inside the resistor housing, but whether that is because the resistor gets too hot or it's a bad solder connection to begin with, who knows? Cancel Reply
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY The 2 that burned out on me were Duralast since that's what I could find in stock in my area would avoid that brand. I found an OEM part online and that's working fine. Since some of the resistance is coming from coils of resistive wire, I'm guessing the idea is to get some feedback to keep defrost from fogging up the window since the resistance will increase with heat or humidity slowing down the fan and speed up with cooler, drier air, based on my knowledge of gas chromatography weirdly enough, although GC is not a feedback loop and just measures the resistance. Otherwise, it would make a lot more sense to just use traditional resistors that are a lot more robust with much tighter tolerance and probably cheaper. If it happens again, I plan to try sticking heatsink fins on the solid face oriented in the direction of airflow and resolder the connection myself.
Has anyone tried this for a Honda Fit that had no air blowing on any of the fan settings? That is my issue, but I can hear the fans whirring within the engine, but there's no air blowing into the cabin.
i have a little bit on the 4th speed to get me home today, but nothing just now with key on but not running. What happened with yours? Resistor or motor?
Big fan of this video- unfortunately, after replacing both my blower motor and resistor, I am stuck with the same issue. AC only works on high. When I changed my resistor, the AC worked (albeit not as strongly) for a couple days, but then went back to only working on the highest setting. Any other ideas? 🥲🙏🏼
Hmmm ... you've got me on that one. I would have recommended changing the motor--- but you did that, so I'm at a loss. .... If you do find out the cause, please come back and post.