Thanks for sharing ! My light is working again now 😊 In my case the switch was no longer working because there is a little transparent hard plastic element in the switch (1300XXL) which was turned so the point was no longer directed downwards. I just removed the rubber cap of the switch and turned the hard plastic part and placed the swichcap back and all is working again 😊
This is EXACTLY what I needed to fix my 1000XL! My light was working perfectly yesterday, but when I turned it on this morning, the light was very dim. The charge LED was flashing RED showing it was discharged. When I put the light on charge, charge light was showing Blue (2A charger). I left it on charge for 2 hours and still when you turned it on the light was VERY dim. Following your video, I took the light apart and immediately found that the red +ve lead had come away from the battery PCB (it's not a plain battery - it has a PCB mounted on the +ve end). I re soldered the +ve lead to the PCB and now it works perfectly again!!! THANK YOU!! :-) I also note that the battery in your light is the same as in the 1000XL
Did you notice the 1000xl flickering over rough ground before this happened? My 1000xl has already been rebuilt once under warranty because of this and a year later it's happening again.. I'm pretty sure the unit is out of warranty this time and the UK shop I bought it from has gone under too. The plan is to open it up and flow some new solder on the terminals. It's worth noting that both times the battery has developed some movement inside the housing. Cheers, Matt
It turns out the problem with my unit is at the connector that attaches to the pcb from the battery. I don't have a new plug or crimp tool to make a new one so have just wedged it in so it's working and ensured the battery isn't moving about any more. Somewhat of a bodge but it seems to be working..
Thanks for the info. I have the same lights and use them for summer night rides to avoid the heat here in Australia. It will be an easy fix. when I need to get new batteries.
Great! Fixed an issue with my light, a lite drive 800xl. In my case 2 tiny screws holding the aluminum bracket on the led board came loose which resulted in the button insert to come loose. Quick fix and good to go again!
Great video. I would recommend putting a small amount of bearing grease on the heatsink before sliding the case back on. That will help conduct heat away from the LED better. Without it, it's mostly air between the two metal planes and that's not very conductive. I have a similar bike light, and the tab broke off the battery, so I just had to put a small shim to keep it held in place. Problem solved! My bet on this Lezyne is that the battery itself was fine but the wire broke. Be very careful using those calipers to measure a battery's length. If the ends aren't insulated, you might set off some fireworks!
Thanks for this. My light had a small screw rattling around in the lens housing somehow, so these instructions let me retrieve it and cure an irritating rattle!
I had exactly the same issue with mine from new and I've only just got around to fixing it. I thought it was a sealed unit until I found this video. On mine the little screw was part of the LED assembly (2 screws in total) just screwed it back in and re-assembled. A nicely made item.
This is good info as I have their Mega Drive 1800i and I'm sure I'll need to replace the cell(s) in it at some point. What I would like to know is, are those standard 18650 cells that you could solder the leads back onto like they have from the factory? TIA!
Nice fix! I hate built in batteries. I bought a rear light that takes regular AAA batteries to replace a built-in USB rechargeable version. I wrecked the USB port after the cover was lost. Too much dirt got into it. So I just use rechargeable AAAs on my new light now. Simple and cheaper than the fancy USB version.
@@LoveMTB and built in batteries make sense, especially if they have a connector. Most of my old lights had issues because of poor or corroded contacts or short battery life. This solves both of those and build in lithium batteries are not exactly hard to source any more.
@@PaulLangmead I'm a prolific headlamp user and I won't buy USB rechargeable lamps anymore. The charge ports so often get fucked up and actually I never had a headlamp fail on me due to corroded contacts. I use Ni-MH which don't leak. It's really not the hardship people think it is to pop the batteries out and drop them in a charger on my desk after a ride / run at night. And I can take multiple sets for an overnight adventure. I had a lithium rechargeable to fit into the 3xAAA space of one of my headlamps but it actually had LESS capacity than 3x regular Ni-MH AAA's because of the space taken up by the usb port and charging circuitry. Yes 18650's are better for a front cycling light where much more power is needed but the original comment referenced his REAR light - I haven't seen larger rear lights taking 18650's, they're usually smaller lights where AAA will work just fine. I think you're also not considering other countries where 18650's can be hard or very very expensive to source. We don't all live where you do. People have different needs and different preferences. One option doesn't "make sense" more than the other.
I’ve managed to get the batteries out. Would it be possible to make a short video how to create a dual battery pack? Glue, connections. Volt metre etc…
It’s a normal 18650 battery, and if it is at 0V probably is a protected cell, not useful on bike lights as it could switch off instantly. I would have bought a better cell from Samsung not protected and ask someone to spot weld it, replacing the original cable. I have always used Convoy flashlights for night riding, an excellent choice. PS: Be careful with the caliper as you can short circuit the cell while measuring the length
Great video for the front lights. I have a Lezyne Strip Pro 300 rear light with exact same symptoms - but no idea how to dismantle? Do you have a clue, or another video?
Very helpful video. Clear instructions and super easy to follow. :-) I do have a follow up question though. Can you recommend a good replacement for the small plastic insert that is sometimes found under the button cover in these lights? My Lezyne model is very similar to yours but it has a small plastic insert under the button cover that is unattached.
Thanks. I have stripped the light down but I'm struggling to find a pre-wired battery with the right male connector. Did you locate yours on eBay? I can cut and solder but prefer to avoid this if possible.
teriffic Video, thanks for sharing! Would you think you could run the lights on 12 Volts via the USB plug? Some voltage converters can handle that, and thats why I am asking
Great video which I might be able to use at some point. Unfortunately it is my back light which is not working. Lezyne Pro Strip. Have you taken one of these apart? thx
Haha! My rear light (KTV smart connect) is showing the same symptons. Appears to be dead, put on charge, and I get the green flashing LED indicating charge, but nothing when I remove it from the charger after several hours. I'm suspecting I could possible do a similar fix if I can find a battery. Might be more of a challenge though! Have you tried to resurrect a dead rear light?
Nice vid.. I have lezyne 1300xxl I love it. Now I have released that I suddenly just have only 3 flash mode what could happened?? And it is fully charged is there any way to reset it? Looking for your answer thanks
@LoveMTB I am wondering if the original battery have a PCB (protection for overcharge or something like this). Because most of the 18650 batteries do not have, but almost all of the batteries with wires have.
@@LoveMTB Thank you - I also meant to add a thank you for the post, very useful. I took my 600KL apart based on your instructions and it looks like the black 'negative' wire has come apart from the battery, so it may be a case of just soldering it back on, but I am not sure where to solder it to. Also I can't find any 'flat top' 18650 batteries with protection, but the original one in the light does have protection.
