How To Fix A Milwaukee Soldering Iron - Not Heating Up 

Have you a link for the 12v version? I could only find them with a minimum order quantity of 1000 pieces at the time.

@@BuyitFixit Sir, I sent you an email so that you can peruse them, and make sure they look like the original. Sure enjoy your video repairs, you are an inspiration to this ol' guy.

@theoldbigmoose Cheers mate 👍😊

Thanks! Yes I wasn't sure if people would appreciate my humor or not!

@@BuyitFixit I love that kind of humor.

Thanks 👍🙂

Thanks 👍🙂

Thanks 👍

Thanks supermick 👍I've got the m18 version. I think the battery lasts a lot longer as it has more capacity

Great to hear jtmarin1 👍 Really glad you managed to get it working! Well done!

Thanks Rob!

Thanks 👍

😂😂😂😂sorry about that.

Cheers 👍

I think that might be a bit X rated for RU-vid 😂😂😂😂

Glad it was helpful!

Yes good idea. I'm not sure if it would have been heat resistant with it being close proximity to the hot end.

​@@BuyitFixitWhat he means is that the piece of paper you cut off, if you can pull it off, will not be damaged and affect the appearance

@@反内卷小组组长 Thanks for your comment . Yes I know what he means. I've done it before with things like warranty stickers on the original xbox. I wasn't really too bothered about the appearance of the sticker in this case.

Thanks Dr Lefthandthread! 👍👍

Yes 👍

Eres muy bienvenida!

😂😂😂yes forgot about that one. I thought it would be entertaining 🙂

@@BuyitFixit it made it more funnier to be honest 😂

If it's showing it's at temp but it's cold it sounds like a problem on the part of the circuit that reads the NTC built into the heater. You'd have to trace the two wires that sense the temperature from the heater back into the PCB. I would think there would be a couple of resistors (potential divider) or possibly an op amp and then it would go into the microcontroller. I'd be checking the components on this part of the circuit as one of the resistors may have gone open circuit. Sorry I can't be more specific as I've not had this problem or traced that part of the circuit myself.

I'm not 100% sounds like it's sensing an error. Are the 4 wires going to the element ok?

@@BuyitFixit they appear to be. There is no obvious problem, so I ordered a new ceramic element, for a few quid, so that’s the next replacement..

..thank you for responding by the way. Respect.

@@benwithjamin hopefully that sorts it. I did a video repairing another 3 of these and I show the resistance of the elements. It may be useful if you want to compare with your current element, and replace the element in one of the irons...

I'm not 100% on that, but I do have another 3 to look at so I can measure it then. I plan to do a video on them soon.

I'd guess so the heat of the soldering iron / solder doesn't travel down the wire and melt (blow) the internals of the fuse.

Just cut the fuse out and solder new fuse to old crimps, just use a few crocodile clips between fuse and ends you solder, to no blow the fuse

Thanks 👍. I did see another video where they did that. I've got another 3 to look at. I think one has the element snapped. Probably be a video on those soon...

Well from previous videos where we see flux is almost NEVER used, the cost of soldering shit in the UK must be exorbitantly expensive. So I guess given the cost of flux and solder to do a “better than factory” repair in the UK, it must be ok to just just save 2 minutes and crimp that shit. 🤷🏻‍♂️

Most thermal fuses are crimped so they don't blow due to the heat from soldering. Not sure what you mean by other videos and flux as I personally use flux all the time, especially when doing SMD rework.

😜😂😂😂😂

The voltage is only 12v but the fuses are used in other things hence being rated for 250v. I can't remember the rating of the original off hand but I've got another 3 of these to do in a future video soon..