*Bought a 500 for an ultralight rod. It's very smooth **enjoyable.fishing** recommend casts great. One odd thing- the bale wire is a bit heavy diameter in my opinion for a reel of this size. But a great purchase.*
very nice, thank you. I buy some cheap ones in flea markets/yard sales that look horrendous. Clean them up primarily with a wire wheel brush on my grinder. Makes it smooth, but to the copper. I take my friends fishing and let them use these for bottom fishing. I let them take them home when we are done. Tell them how to take care of them and to bring them when we go again. Some grease and they last forever.
Thanks for sharing. That's the whole idea behind 2nd Chance Tackle - the fish don't know the difference between a shiny reel and one that won't win a beauty contest! The quality ones that have had a tough time deserve a 2nd Chance - Dennis
THANK YOU! The Penn Leveline reel my parents gave me for Christmas 64 years ago is in the same shape as the one in this video. I may buy new parts, but I’ll try this first. Very helpful.
I am fond of the old Penn reels. I have fished with them and I continue to purchase and maintain them to this day. I have seven of the older Penn 209 Peer reels according to my last count.The quality of the chrome plating and the worksmanship on these reels is great. With that said, I encounter some with greening from corrosion due to improper maintenance, which can look ugly. I viewed this video, and also the newer video with the Flitz pretreatment, on how to address this, and the newer video seems a better way to go, in my opinion. I am not all about function, but of also admiring the reel. In my past experience with corroded brass plated with chrome, I learned that mixing table salt with vinegar to form a paste can be used to remove the corrosion. I see that some use some flour to help form the paste. I found it to be quite helpful in removing the corrosion on the Morse engine controls on my 1984 vintage lobster boat. The earlier Penn reels had excellent plating, and I think that it will work with them as well.
Great video Dennis. If you have some greening not too heavy I have used lemon juice when didn't have any thing else handy at the time. Let parts soak a bit then go back with scrubbie green pad works good also. Yeah you have good idea as well on the toilet bowl cleaner. I wash my reels off after every use and little we 40 wipe down good. Then service when done using for the season.
The fish don't know it is an ugly reel that is on the other end of the line! Just keep it maintained inside and keep your ego in check with the pride of ownership! Thanks for watching - Dennis
To answer your question why Senators are called 3/0 or 9/0 etc: Old linen thread line used to be used back in the day, and the first number refers to the number of strands of linen thread that are woven into the line...4 strands, 6 strands, 24 thread and so on with each "thread" breaking at approximately 3 lbs. The /0 designation is because all the old school game trolling reels (Hardy, Vom Hofe, Ocean City and Penn Senator) were all sized according to the /O system - O means Ocean Reel. Does that answer what you wanted to know?
Just remember that the acid will be stronger and likely will remove the chrome. If you aren't worried about appearance, then that is the most effective way to clean the parts. Thanks for viewing - Dennis
Thank you. I just picked up a penn 140 it works ok but had line left on it. The spool is corroded bad. Tried all the silly stuff like coke, lemon, vinegar, and it still didnt come off. Want to keep the reel for my kids an for 20 bucks i couldn't pass it up
If the only problem is the spool corrosion, you may want to replace it with a new or used one. A new one can be purchased from Mysticparts.com. Used ones can usually be found on Ebay - Dennis
In a pinch I use ketchup. Generous coat, let it sit for 30-60 minutes. Then use a brass brush to lightly scrub it. If there is a problem area of salt corrosion, I take the oldest penny I can find and break the buildup free. Then rinse the ketchup off and dry.
I haven't tried that product. What is the ultimate effect on the metal? Does it degrade the chrome and take it down to the bare metal, like the acids, or does it leave more of the chrome finish in place? I am always looking to explore alternatives. Thanks for the tip.
2nd Chance Tackle it doesn't seem to affect the chrome and it can be mixed to different strengths. For especially heavily corroded parts, I will let them soak overnight.
Dennis, you are an inspiration and This video is inspiring me to tackle a Senator 3/0 reel that has sat in a friends garage for decades. It is model 113, under the reel seat. I don’t know anything more about it except it came with a boat rod , metal slotted bottom with 7 roller guides, no name on rod and it is solid black that has much the same white corrosion. Looking to redo the reel but need two outer front case screws on the left side , how can I find the screws?
Hi there and thanks for your video. I have a Penn level wind 109 reel that belonged to my dad. I'm interested in giving it to my grandson to use salt water fishing. It's in ok shape. It winds smoothly but has some surface rust and the part the line winds on is the worst. It's got a build up of something brown, maybe rust. Can this be cleaned in a way you can still fish with it? I seen another video that said you should use no chemicals on reels because the fish will smell it and not bite. Any help is appreciated.
If the line is off the reel when you are cleaning it, then there is no worry on transferring chemical contamination to fish. I'd start by giving your reel a simple bath in a container of vinegar - that should remove most of the issues overnight. It is safe and biodegradable Once you clean the exterior parts be sure to re-lube and oil it
Have a most perfect Airex Beachcomber. Has the usual plastic spool washer that once the spool is taken off, can't putit back. Simple to do correctly. Also two side screws on side plate to tight to remove and clean old grease. Easily said but how to do.
I have a penn 165 that is about half as corroded as the one in the video. The inner part of the frame right by the spool is the worst part. If I wind up accidentally taking off the chrome plating, could I get away with cold bluing that area?
Not sure, but if you take off the chrome, it will only expose the base metal and that is OK, You will just need to keep it clean to avoid further damage to the metal. You can do that with a fresh water rinse after use - Dennis
That is an abrasive. It will smooth and clean the side plates, but it won't restore the luster and if you have any luster, it will dull it and ruin what you have. Best to use a product like Penn's rod and reel cleaner and a kitchen fabric scrub pad - Dennis
I have a penn 109 peer I got it at a garage sell it was full of sand open it up clean the sand but I was wondering if you can make a tutorial on this particular reel or any sugestión you have I love to hear from you thank you love your show big fan
Victor - I do not see many #109s anymore, but if one comes in the shop I will do the video. I am adding it to my request list. In the meantime, I did a video on the Peer #9. the process is similar for the rebuild. There is a different bridge plate on the 109. It is more narrow and uses smaller screws. Other that that, the reels are basically the same. The link to the video is below Thanks for asking - Dennis ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8id37HNxPGY.html
Hi Dennis ..... I got my Penn 330 LD made in USA bought it More than 10 year and only been used several times .... I do like this model , the only problem is the Level Drag not really functioning ...... Is there any way to repair it or maybe upgrade the parts....?? Many thank's - Paul.
The reel can be repaired. If you follow the video for the GLS, the reels are very similar. Here is the link ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-HrXV4gUzvxc.html If you need parts, you can get them at Mysticparts.com. If you are interested in having your reel serviced, please send me a note at 2ndchancetackle@gmail.com
Great video Dennis, I've always used 1:1 vinegar to water ratio and that's always worked for me and my Penn Senators. I just soak them overnight rinse it off with cold water and call it a day. Seems to work just fine for me. However, I never thought of the bare metal being exposed like that. It's weird to know that any bare metal rusts immediately, but the reels don't rust after being treated even though it's bare metal? Any idea as to why that is? Maybe because its not bare metal there's still a coat of finish on it?
If it is bare metal, then the steel will react to the water quickly. Other metals do not react as fast, but oxidation does occur when the metal is unprotected.
Glad to hear you are servicing your own reels and that this video has helped. If you run into any snags or problems, please send me a note and I will see if I can help. - Dennis
There is no answer for restoration. UV Damage can be covered or hidden for a while, but will show when the cleaners or polish wears off. There are a couple of good ones out there. #Flitz polish is among the best. Penn Rod and Reel cleaner will help. You can also visit an auto parts store and get the car cleaners and polishes that say they help with UV damage on plastic parts - Thanks for asking Dennis
After you clean this off, can you touch up the pitting with any kind of chrome paint? I know it won't be as durable as chrome, but it might look good for a couple of years, right?
Hello Dennis. I have recently been in the market for my first baitcaster and stumbled across 2 penn peer 209 reels that were buried in the ground. Is there anything that i can do to make them functional again? I do not care what they look like at all, as a matter of fact i think the patina is beautiful on them, i just want them to be highly functioning, awesone reels. Is there anything i can do to make them work again? I have noticed that some of your viewers have been asking about the peer 109, i am assuming that is the sister model? What is the difference between the two, and do you have any videos of this reel (209, i seen you say that you don't have any of the 109)? Any help or response at all would be highly appreciated as i have zero knowledge of this reel at all. Is it a good reel, what was it used for, when was it made, is it collectible, can i use it for catfishing monster cats? Any information you could provide would absolutely make my day. I was going to buy a couple of abu garcia 6500 c3 catfish specials, but it would make me so much happier if i could use these instead. Is that possible?
You should be able to restore these as long as the parts are not rusted of severely corroded. First, take a side plate off and remove the spool then put all parts in a. bucket of water and let it sit for a day to loosen as much dirt as possible. You can then use the video to show how to complete the rebuild. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EGF8IHPg_98.html Parts are still available for the reel at Mysticparts.com if you find some are broken or worn. There are different exterior versions of this reel, red side plates and black side plates, but the reels are the same internally, Thanks for asking - Dennis
Part 2 - you can use this model 209 reel for monster catfish. It can easily handle 30# monofilament and was built as a saltwater reel. The reel was introduced in the early 1950s and is still in production. The 109 is the smaller version of the reel.
Hi Dennis. I've found your videos to be very helpful. I have a recurring problem with old Penn reels that I have acquired (like the surfmaster, 500, and squidder) where the reel handle side plate has corroded in place. As you know for these reels the side plate twists on and is held fast by a finger screw. I also have the opposite problem for a surfmaster where the handle side plate will fit into, but not twist into the grooves of, the side plate. Any thoughts? I don't want to take overly drastic measures that will just ruing the reel. Thank you!
Yes - I have had the same problem on occasion. I find it best to do the following; Remove the non gear side plate and spool. That will give you access to the inside frame where you are having the problem. Spray all around the frame, where the gear side plate meets the frame with a good penetrating oil like WD40 or Liquid Wrench. I let it sit for at least an hour. I also spray both sides on the thumb screw on the gear plate and from the inside where it attaches to the frame, After the wait, I reattach the spool and bearing side plate to get maximum support and then try. try again to remove the plate. There is no easy way to wrench this and you risk breaking the side plate if you do, so just a lot of oil, patience and attempts usually will get it free. Thanks for asking - Dennis
Water Displacement 40 does more harm than good if used inside the reel. It washes away the greece. It is good to wipe down the outside of the reel after use. But then oil it properly afterwards.
You are correct. I have recommended this as a cleaner, not a lubricant. It is good for freeing sticky parts and the service should always include adding oil or grease afterwards. - Dennis
I wouldn't use that. It is too. aggressive and will scratch or remove the coating. Best bet is #0000 steel wool and metal polish. Anything more and you usually wind up needing to replace them - Thanks for asking - Dennis
Yes . The procedures for cleaning are the same. Since you have brass, you should substitute a brass polish where I am showing the chrome polish/metal cleaner -Thanks for watching - Please stay tuned for more - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle Yes true, however im finding it very difficult to source some of these NOS parts and some of them are even showing signs of corrosion from storage. Most chrome platers today can do a much better job than factory too. But yeah, its not overly cheap.
Hello I own two penn 113h 4/0 senators... they sat around for a while some corrosion build up..I used metal wax (medium cut polish) removed mostly all corrosion after a few times...still have some tough stops...still trying...I might just use as is till I get new spools.... What are the new spools made of ? Are they made of same material? Thanks
The new spools are anodized Aluminum metal. They are available on mysticparts.com for around $35 plus S&H. Unless you are restoring the reel to show it off, I'd just go with the old spool for everyday fishing
The point on buy a new reel is that you can spend more in acquiring replacement parts than the reel is worth. You always have the options, just noting out that there is a point where the economics make the decision for you.
Great to hear. If you take care of them, they will last a life time. These are nice reels that should be treated well. Sounds like you have a treasure - Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle I come from 4 generations of saltwater fishermen. I have alot of reels that where pass down to me as family died. The longbeach casters where very popular since they most fished piers, passes, and surf fishing. I watch your vids cause they show the breakdown and maintence which is a lost art for these older models
Thanks again for watching. These old reels really are a treasure and that you have the history and generations of knowledge and use is fantastic. Best wishes for great fishing - Dennis
Dennis, I've recently acquired multiple Penn reels to add to my collection, a Peer 109 with red sideplates, and a bakelite No. 85. I don't plan on ever fishing the 85 but the 109 is in fantastic mechanical condition and as a result, I'd love to use it some day. My question is, I've heard that it is not good to put Mono on the spool, wound up, and leave it on there. I put 15lb test in the 109 and I am afraid I may warp the spool. Should I be worried?
The answer is...it depends. If you are planning on fishing with the reel a few times a season, then you should have no problem. The fishing will release any tension that may build up from being tightly wound. I always recommend stripping the line off of the reel at the end of the season or when you are putting the reel in storage for a while. I do that primarily as a reminder that the line is old and needs to be replaced and because old line left on a reel in storage after the last trip can break down and cause corrosion. So, spool it up, use it for the season, don't worry along the way and remove the line when you are done for the year - Thanks for asking - Dennis
Clear coating may help prevent future chrome loss, but it won't restore any that is gone. Generally, I would prefer to clean it and leave it alone. I'm not for repainting and refinishing a reel and like the history of the dents and paint loss thinking there is a story to tell - Thanks for asking - Dennis
I have never been much into cosmetics. If you are going to spend time with restoring a reel, it's best to start with one in good condition. That, and I am not a good painter! Thanks Rey - Dennis
Rechroming is always an option. The video shows the steps you can take to try and clean it prior to to swapping parts or getting the originals re-chromed. Thanks for watching - Dennis
