How to Fix a Rust Hole Without Welding: Duraglas, Kitty Hair Filler, Bondo Glass 

You're the man! Just like building a house - there's a lot of different ways. I'm just showing all the ways I've seen it done and ways I do it - that's all. Lots of guys get real mad and stuff - I don't think the old WWII generation guys were like that - they were men on the same team.

Your absolutely right. What's wrong with taking a little bit from every person and learning something that you may be able to apply. That said the negative nellys here must've liked something you did. They didn't just come to your channel and waste 15 mins of their time watching it just to criticize you. They obviously don't know everything

​@@carlmottola5611 Only way to get smart is to listen, watch and have a good filter - filter the good info from the bad. Really nice talking to you. Have a good new year.

You're welcome Alex :)

Thanks so much. I'll keep putting different ways to tackle jobs on the channel - there's a lot of great ways to fix things - just have to find the methods that work best for you. Glad you like them - have a great weekend :)

You're welcome - Here's an old film you might like about building Fords in 1968 - maybe your Falcon is in there :) - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vi6NWncnZec.html

All those old guys in the 50's 60's and 70's were very talented. Brick layers, masons, plaster, draftsmen, builders, body men, on and on..... It's amazing that all that knowledge disappears when the guy passes away - sad really. Peace to you too my friend :)

I learned that a darker primer helps a lot too.

I'm glad they help - If you have any suggestions or videos that you would like to see let me know.

You're very welcome my friend - thanks for watching and your comments :)

You're welcome

Thanks Joe - I appreciate that :)

You're welcome 308 - let me know how it goes for you. BTW - the follow up on this repair is in this video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gIS1Tbv7Kvw.html Around 3 years old already :)

You're welcome 😊

You're welcome. Thanks for the story and your logic.

Thanks Marty - I appreciate that. Have a nice Christmas 🎄❄🎄😊

You're welcome :)

The rack that I'm using is just two big triangles made of 2x4's. I just C clamp them to the car lift ramps and attach the various panels any safe way that I can - but I'll try to get a video on that for you - Thanks for watching :)

My question, is it still polyester based ? If so ,it's the same as bondo with all the moisture absorption that comes with it. Epoxy based is a different story. Fiberglass boats gain weight sitting in the water,tells me right there that polyester isnt all it's cracked up to be.

​@@MrTheHillfolkit's not the fiberglass that absorbs water it's them leaking from somewhere and the wood and foam that they use in them that gain the weight.

@@natevanlandingham1945 Polyester absorbs moisture, ask anybody who owns a boat how much heavier it is at the end of the season.

@@MrTheHillfolk I own several boats. One is fiberglass. I have owned two other fiberglass boats as well. They have a gelcoat on the outside of them, they should not have water penetrating the hull..if there is you have a leak. If you have a leak your foam flotation in the bilge and the wood will absorb it. Never glass constructed boats use plastic wood or basically it's like those plastic cutting boards you use in the kitchen. It's called like HTPE plastic or something?

Absolutely! If you can somehow undercoat the back side or make sure that the panel drains well, all the better. Let me know how it goes :)

@@LakesideAutobody will do. Thanks a lot for the information.

Anything cheap really. Some is very thin though. I like dollar general's spray bomb can primer for quick use. I believe it's called Miracle enamel primer - 3-4 bucks/can

You are absolutely right - we've all experienced what Ziebart causes. It does have it's place though if you really clean the back side a prep it well - it'll last quite a while. I prefer this though to any other method of prevention - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8XaZBy7GC7A.html or this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y05dNxt-nVc.html Hope that clears things up - thanks for watching my friend :)

Good tip Rod - thanks - I'll check that stuff out :)

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks to you I now do rust repair on my 2005 Tahoe. Did left rear quarter panel a while back, starting rocker panels next week. 👍

Absolutely and thanks for the nice comments - glad you like the videos

Thanks Robert :)

Thanks Buck - glad you enjoyed it :)

It's normal practice to prime over it first. You can use any type of automotive grade primer though - lacquer, epoxy, or urethane. Epoxy doesn't sand well so if you are going to block sand the first application of primer it's best to go with lacquer primer surfacer or urethane primer surfacer. Or even some spray bomb primer if you're just doing a daily driver.

Grinding discs are from Benchmark Abrasives and here are the spreaders: www.ebay.com/itm/141695623597?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=141695623597&targetid=1262779893809&device= Thanks for the support and have a good week :)

This is for folks w/o a welder. You may like this one better: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-VBLlA-VAusw.html I like to show all ways that shops use to fix rust then the viewer can make a choice on what they like or think will last. See also: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JIIonJOVro4.html

I owned the same year Dodge but it was a Ramcharger - nice trucks. I used or welded in the patch panels that you can order from places like Raybuck.com. Those are great looking trucks. Keep me posted when you begin your project :)

No - usually just blow it of with air but it wouldn't hurt at all to hit it with thinner, wax and grease remover. Never used acetone to wipe a car but I'm sure it would work fine as it dries fast and pretty strong.

I've never attempted that but since filler sticks to fiberglass really well and it's made with the same resin base, I can't see why the fiberglass would not stick to filler. If you try it, let me know how it goes for you :)

Most primers in a spray can are very similar - they are good for priming bare metal before painting and that's about it. They are not high build or primer surfacers that can be block sanded. So.... I would just use the most inexpensive (rustolem, krylon, etc.) since you're just going to use it cover the bare metal before painting.

Yes - filler over bare metal or epoxy primer (any primer actually). ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wVhQLqPAGVU.html

That was a grinder/sander/buffer with a 40 grit fiber resin disc on it to remove the paint and really rough up the metal in order for the filler to stick really well. Filler never peels, chips or fall off of a properly prepared surface. You can use a DA too but sometimes a DA is not fast enough for me and it doesn't stay as sharp as the 40 grit fiber resin disc - instead of cutting it rubs if dull and filler don't like to stick well to that :)

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gIS1Tbv7Kvw.html This repair is still fine today - made sure the panel could drain and stay dry inside. I wouldn't bridge anything too large. If you have to bridge use cloth like this - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Zp5gmDC7KQI.html Both will last quite some time if the panel can drain and dry out inside - try to under coat the inside too if possible.

@@LakesideAutobody what about a 1& half inch hole in a Ford bed fenderwell? Fiberglass cloth with resin, then after Harding smooth out with body filler ? Should I use 2k primer inside and outside? Thanks for your help

Anything cheap but mostly Miracle Rust Preventative Spray Enamel Primer from Dollar General because it's always available, covers real well and works well. Some spray bomb cans don't cover well - they're real thin. Rustoleum auto primer sealer works good too just $ - I use spray bomb just to cover quick not to block sand.

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks!

The longevity of this type of repair depends on some things: 1, could you seal the back side with undercoating or something similar 2. Is it a daily driver in salt and snow 3. Is it a trailer queen 4. was the job done properly where the filler was thick and rigid 5. Is there good drainage at the bottom of the panel This type of repair can last forever or less than 3 years so.... again it's how you take care of it after the repair.

Thanks!!!

Here's a quick run down. I will do a video on that topic very soon. Filler work = 36 grit then 80 to finish it before primer. Paint work = 120 grit on the DA (rough sanding / feather edging) / 220-240 on the DA for paint work or finishing your primer / 120-150 for block sanding you primer surfacer. Rule of thumb is use what cuts the fastest but know that eventually you have to get it down to 220-240 (DA) or finer if you hand finish sand (320-400) for paint. Exactly like doing a wood project really. Let me know if you have any more ?s on that :)

@@LakesideAutobody So the last grit before paint should be 400 if doing it by hand? Does that also apply after you’ve primed it?

@@mrsemifixit Last grit by hand is 400 - yes. If you use a DA the last grit is 220-240 or finer if you want. I finish sand my primer too just in case there are nibs or dust. You want everything completely smooth before paint. I keep a spray bomb can of cheap auto primer for any little bare metal spots left (you don't have to sand that). If any confusion ask again :)

Yes, it works fine as a primer for paint to stick to but not for a filler like automotive grade primer surfacer that you mix and spray :)

Cheese grate right before it gets hard enough to sand - like parmesan cheese actually. Wait about 5-10 minutes after to sand :)

That was short strand.

Depends on the temp inside the garage and how much hardener you added. The best I can say is when you can still dig your finger nail into it. Once you can't dig your finger nail into it, it's probably to late - but you can still try. Let me know if you are successful at it :)

@@LakesideAutobody thats a big help

Fiberglass reinforced filler is waterproof but hard to sand if you let it get too hard (cheese grate it before it hardens). If you can get to the back (often impossible), you can wire brush it and coat it with some undercoating. That will seal it for a long darn time - no water = no rust :)

🤣😂🏆🏆🏆🏆

thats what the used car dealers use and make a killing off of the consumers hey use car dealers have to eat too lol

The ones in the metal never show for me (there's really no scratches or "deep" scratches. If I leave them in the paint (don't DA or feather edge well) they end up showing (sometimes). Sometimes you can get away with cheating a bit. If you leave your filler a bit full and sand the rest with 80 grit (what your supposed to do) you be absolutely fine. Hope that helps - Jerry

I would love to show that - good request. Here's the steps while your waiting for the vid. The scoop should have a flange so rough that up along with the hood about 4-6 inches out all the way around. Mix up some fiberglass reinforced filler and "feather" that seam out into the hood - like they do with butt seams in drywall. You'll sand the filler just like you see in this video. If you have more ?s - ask - Jerry

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you. I appreciate it. I have a fiberglass cowl induction hood scoop on my steel hood 1979 Chevy Caprice 2 door And want it to look nicer.

🤣🏆👍

Yes - after it hardens. This stuff is sort of hard to sand so you might want to knock it down first with a cheese grater blade - Stanley Surform 21-299

@@LakesideAutobody i understand but are you sanding it while it is still curing or fully cured?

@@alexhuevera939 Got it - I'm sanding it while it is still curing. Like.... about 10-15 minutes after it was applied :)

You're welcome Ralph. The fiberglass reinforced filler used in this video is Bondo Brand short strand reinforced filler. The regular filler is Autobody Master light weight body filler. What issues are you having? Usually the variables that cause filler to react differently is temperature and amount of hardener used. Jerry

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks so much. I'm in Forida and everything is difficult here except vacationing. For me the Bondo hardens to fast, even if I cut back on Hardner

@@ralphroderer3905 You're right - in the summer in a hot shop it can get over 100 - you just have to cut back on the hardener and get fast at spreading :)

@@LakesideAutobody sounds good, once again less is more. Thank-you.

@@ralphroderer3905 You're welcome Ralph ❄🎄😊

I usually get some big air pockets with this stuff but good to know about the USC brand - thanks

Yea same stuff I have now, cheap and available in town, check out summit racing they have nice sandpaper’s, the usc and paint, $100 gets free shipping

👍

Give me a few reasons why you think filler is bad. Folks that do body work for a career are not afraid to use filler - See these videos for longevity of body filler: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8XaZBy7GC7A.html or ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2o37dX--w0I.html

Aurelian Freeman it was mostly surface rust. What he repaired was the pinholes left after grinding away or sandblasting the area. You could see in the very beginning before he uses the grinder.

The hole or holes are small but it's about to get worse - that's a perfect situation to use fiberglass reinforced filler. Not that it's the best way to do it or the longest lasting but it will last long if you allow for drainage - no water build up on the inside of the panel after the repair :)

You know, I went to a lung specialist because of a spot in my lungs that was seen on an x-ray - I asked the doc if all this body work was the cause. He said, " there's no way any of that dust has made it to your lungs - too much mucus and stuff to protect the lungs" - I didn't believe it but he knows more than me about that stuff - I think he may be right - but I still wear a mask for sure.

This was a video for if you just want to fix a spot fast - Actually I've this type of repair last a long time especially if there's drainage allowed for. Last, this stuff is water proof - at least that's what the can says :)

👍

His undercoater had a tip that sprayed flat to cover a wider area. The problem is that there are several different formats of spray tips and they are not necessarily inter-changable. Nice to use a WD-40 straw tip on an undedrcoater can IF IT FITS. -- I keep a variety of cleaned diff tips just for that possibility. -- AutoBody supply house may have undercoater with straw tips, or use a spatter gun -- small holes only if u have a straw sprayer

At the beginning of the video I stated "It's another method." I have many different videos showing many different methods. It's your choice what you want to do to your car. You can even lease a new car if you want it perfect but that's not what this channel is about. It's about helping each other out.

That's not very respectful... The truth is, filler isn't just for a skim coat. The best body men I have ever worked with were not afraid of body filler and that is why they were great. You cannot be a good body man if you are scared to use bondo. It got a bad name because folks threw it over a hole and did not prepare the surface correctly. In 40 years I have never had bondo (no matter what the brand) crack, fall out, bubble, etc. If you fix and don't just replace panels you have to use filler. BTW, that's nowhere near 1/2" maybe 1/4 max depth after sanding. You want to see 1/2" or more you'll have to find the 1978 Lincoln Town Car 1/4 panel I repaired in the early '80s that side swiped a tree. Had to spread the filler on with a 12 inch piece of stiff cardboard :) Customer wanted to save $ on the repair but happy with the job.

@@LakesideAutobody Lets put it a different way. If you put a refrigerator magnet on it and it slides off, the filler is thicker than necessary. The underlying metal is too deformed for a professional repair. You can hammer out and smooth most metal in the time it takes to buy misx and apply a thick coating of filler and take most of it off with a cheese grater.

@@joelpalmer Here's a ? only for this repair. Would you rather have a paper thin layer of filler over a hole or a thick rigid layer of filler over a hole? Remember this video is for those folks that don't want to weld and need a way to repair rust. The video is not about removing a dent.

@@LakesideAutobody Ok if you want to reinforce the hole using fiberglass at least put some cloth and resin on the back side or if inaccessible on the front side. and then skim coat. You are not going convince me or most folks that up to a half inch of filler is a good idea.

@@joelpalmer There's many ways that work in auto body repair - I've seen thousands of different guys do thousands of different things - Just showing a few of the most common and efficient methods that hold up the longest.

Yes, you are right 👍💯

I've never had filler do what you say it will do in the sun, expanding metal, air bubbles and all - that's false information. Like I said in the video, If you seal the back and no moisture can get to the repair it can last forever - why wouldn't it. As for the but welding thing pls see this vid and also what Eastwood has to say about straight up butt welding - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-e9bjZ_UxtJg.html Eastwood vid: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rpH50kh4W00.html Please see this video for longevity of filler repairs if done correctly - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8XaZBy7GC7A.html or ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2o37dX--w0I.html

@@LakesideAutobody I'm not arguing the longevity of filler repairs IF DONE CORRECTLY. Your video said verbatim "at least 3/8" of filler. C'mon, let's be serious, any quality restoration shop would laugh at the statement that 3/8"+ of filler is correctly done. And since you asked "why wouldn't it?" Here's the reason thick filler is a problem. Because temperature change cycles acting on the different coefficient of expansion of filler relative to the steel substrate causes sheering forces at the bond interface which eventually leads to adhesion failure causing small cracks allowing the ingress of water and re-occurrence of rust. Not an issue with thin applications. But thick filler repairs ain't right. What's worse is how the filler squished through those existing rust holes to the backside, creating moisture points. Yes, short strand filler is waterproof, but the metal hole it's sticking through is not and again you have different expansion rates. Paint on the inside doesn't change that, it just delays the inevitable micro cracks and water ingress. There are reasons dent puller repairs from the old days (with filler sticking though the holes like worms on the inside) aren't considered permanent repairs. All that being said I do respect the fact that you posted a good method for a medium term repair that can be helpful for DIY folks that can't weld.

I'll get an old Bentley and start doing some videos with it :)

It's perfect. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CNVENaswsio.html This had the same repair done on it - even worse.

Not true - Please see this video for longevity of this type of repair and mig welded repairs if done correctly: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8XaZBy7GC7A.html or ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2o37dX--w0I.html

@@LakesideAutobody Great video. Those little holes though... it'd only take a few minutes to prep and fill them using a mig... Would you fill those holes if you had a mig handy? Your great filler work needs to be done anyway but could be thinner? I personally think the welding is a lot easier than the bondo and also much less toxic and easier to re-repair. The car in your longevity video is a solid car like isn't made any more. Cars today are often made with thin inferior sheet that flexes and thick bondo will crack and detach. Thoughts?

You're right - I like your thinking 😊

This was for folks that don't want to weld or don't have a welder.

Ah yes, the "only way is to weld" guy. Present on all videos that show us how to do a quick and dirty clean up on an old beater.

Not true! my old Eurovan had a fiberglass patch for a year and it still works.

The hardener is red so that would make it Red Magic :)

Not so - it can last forever if you seal the back from moisture.

Not if you bought the basics at HF

The title say's w/o welding. I have lots on welding - here's a playlist w/ a bunch of them - it's good to have a few so folks can do some body work if they don't have a welder - ru-vid.com/group/PLOP9eoG14-I-qu68_805bZaOnmkdlv6Ys

Hey man! That's one of my better intros.