How to Fix a Zenith-Stromberg Fuel Leak & Re-Tune Quickly!

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The Triumph GT6 was pouring fuel from a hole inside the air cleaner. This is a pretty common problem with these old carburetors, and usually indicates a stuck needle valve. In this video, we take you through how to recognize what the problem is, how to fix it (without taking the carburetor off), and how to quickly re-tune your Zenith Stromberg CD150 or 175 carburetor(s) so you can get back on the road. The car in this video is a Triumph GT6, but a TR6, Spitfire, TR7... even a Stag would be the same principle.
Note: Some later Zenith-Strombergs have a vent tube added on the side with a valve operated by the throttle when closed. This tube is part of the float bowl venting system (vents to the charcoal canister) and must not be blocked or it will cause leaks.
Please let us know if you have questions in the comments below, and don't forget to subscribe to the channel!

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10 апр 2021

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Комментарии : 63

@33Cowlard 2 года назад

By far the best, most helpful video I’ve ever seen. The commentary is excellent, no waffle, no “erms”, very, very professional. The whole process is explained clearly and precisely. Thanks very much! Brilliant!

@midwestmotoring 2 года назад

I'm flattered! To be fair... I probably edited out the "erms" to make me look smarter than I am. Still--I hope it keeps more cars on the road!

@33Cowlard 2 года назад

Hi, I tried to respond directly to your reply but can’t do that, so I’m replying here. Seriously, you’re in a different league to most purportedly helpful videos on RU-vid. No praise is high enough. We need more people like you! Many thanks again!!!

@lindsayperrin 22 дня назад

Just followed your demonstation on my 1969 2 lt. Vitesse and wow, the performance is so much better. Simple to follow and to understand what I was doing. Thank you!

@midwestmotoring 22 дня назад

Glad to help! The cars get a poor reputation for reliability, but it's usually down to incorrect or incomplete maintenance. Now go drive and enjoy!

@Sam-gb2hq 2 года назад

Really appreciate the video, I/m reviving my 68 gt6 project, and buddy, your cd150 video really helped. Looking forward to more gt6 videos, so keep'em coming brother!

@midwestmotoring 2 года назад

Glad it helped! Another GT6 on the road is always a good thing. I'm a fan!

@westy1 3 года назад

That was superb:) I’m new to carbs,and that was the best explanation on how to tune I’ve seen,nice one.. I’ll follow your lead and feel way more confident now,cheers :)

@midwestmotoring 3 года назад

Thanks for the compliment! I'm happy to be helpful. I'm in my 30s still (barely) and want to see interest in these cars go for quite a while yet... which means keeping them on the road! Thanks for subscribing if you already have!

@mjlee1975 3 года назад

I just did this quick repair and worked like a charm. My Tr6 has been sitting for 20 years and the needle and seat were stuck on both. I'll be getting some kits for them but this got me going.

@midwestmotoring 3 года назад

So happy to hear! Every car that gets back on the road is a car that isn't deteriorating in a corner somewhere. Keep driving!

@jimwhite6383 Год назад

Very good demostration, I understood.

@midwestmotoring Год назад

Thanks!

@0100G Год назад

Fantastic video thanks! I have had an intermittent leak coming from my rear carburettor for years. I stripped it down in situ exactly as you showed there was a tiny speck of dirt in the needle valve. Both carburettor are now stripped in an hour and new parts on order. Thanks very much.

@midwestmotoring Год назад

Happy to help!

@jeffharrison5265 Год назад

Great info. Thanks.

@midwestmotoring Год назад

Glad it's helpful! Thanks for watching

@air_cooled_andy Год назад

Absolutely brilliant video. Thanks buddy. 👌

@midwestmotoring Год назад

Glad to help, thanks for the compliment!

@kenawiti1993 Год назад

This is quite informative! I have an overflow problem with a Zenith carburetor fitted in my Volvo 240.

@midwestmotoring Год назад

I'm seeing lots of comments from Volvo and Mercedes guys these days. Happy to help you guys too!

@jamcdona 3 года назад

Good to see you back! I went through this last year. Old hoses were delaminating inside and something got into the float needle in one of my carbs. I was told to tap on the bowel with a hammer to see if I could break loose the needle. It worked! It was supposed to be a temp fix to stop the fuel leak, but it still seems to have worked. Fuel stopped going into the oil, also. The filter was replaced at the same time.

@jamcdona 3 года назад

Also, I forgot to mention thanks for going through the whole carb tuning process. The best I've seen so far.

@midwestmotoring 3 года назад

Thanks, I'm happy it helps! Scheduling is tight with a baby at home but I realized I can do my video editing during those 3am feedings.... I've never actually had the hammer tap work on a stuck needle. Just unlucky I guess!

@jamcdona 3 года назад

@@midwestmotoring Naps are your friend. I didn't expect the hammer thing to work, but it did. I still need to remove the carbs and clean out the float bowl, though.

@coconutman5437 3 года назад

love the shirt. cheers for the info Dude. x

@midwestmotoring 3 года назад

Ha! Thanks. Half of my family is from Mexico, and the shirt makes me laugh since that's exactly how my grandfather used to pronounce it. Hopefully no one's too offended now that we've pointed it out :)

@NickHarman 6 дней назад

Worth mentioning that in addition to the Zeniths that adjust jet from inside, and those (as here) that have a slotted nut, there is a third where the nut is not slotted but castellated and you need a special tool for that type.

@midwestmotoring 5 дней назад

Good point. There are definitely different versions not covered here. This should handle most Triumphs and MGs sold in North America.

@NickHarman 4 дня назад

@@midwestmotoring It's a bit random. I have had various Sunbeam Stilettos here in the UK and the Strombergs were all a bit different

@GlenGlenervo 3 года назад

excellent info here

@midwestmotoring 3 года назад

Thank you! I learned everything I know about these cars from the tech sessions in the Triumph club. Just passing it forward to help keep them on the road!

@tedspooner5784 Год назад

Thanks for that demonstration. I've been resisting removing the problem carb. Difficult spot to see on my TR. Now I'm set to go at this frustrating issue. I did not realize how gas got into the air intake (thru the over flow vent on the left side of the face). I have hope!

@midwestmotoring Год назад

Glad it helped

@paorevolorio6568 Год назад

Love your shirt

@midwestmotoring Год назад

Ha thanks! My grandfather from Mexico thought it was hilarious too. I'd forgotten that I was wearing it but figured no one would notice anyway.

@jamcdona 3 года назад

Related question- is it common to see varnish appear around the choke area, and varios screws on the body of the ZS carb- after it's been rebuilt? I don't know if the gasket kit was crap, or that it's the nature of the carb to seep fuel and varnish up. I get drips from one of the choke levers, after a period of time. I like clean stuff :) so this bugs me.

@midwestmotoring 3 года назад

A lot is going to depend on the quality of the fuel. Gas can start to varnish in about 30 days if the car sits, so it stands to reason that it would happen. That said... the choke (aka starter box) shouldn't really have enough fuel inside of it to varnish. The little holes line up with a larger hole in the body of the carb as the choke is pulled. There's also a second hole near the top (if I'm not mistaken) that's always open and should be pulling out excess fuel all the time. That's why the choke doesn't leak out the retaining nut and spring area. I'd check to be sure those passageways in the body of the carb are clear, and also that the holes in the choke are the right way round. If not, you might have fuel backing up, which could explain the drip and the varnish.

@oifatso989 3 года назад

Nice to see you back with videos, hope bTop notch videos learnt so much from your carb rebuilds and tuning. Have a stromberg 175cd on a merc 123 (bottom adjusting) rebuilt her and was running sweet. But had a fuel leak after the engine was off and it sat overnight. Checking oil level and it’s double so fuel has leaked into the manifold and mixed with engine oil.. was dripping under the automatic choke also. Any ideas? Maybe I’ve set the floats incorrectly, will double check needle valve.. would any messed up adjustments being too rich cause this also or any vacuum issues causing the fuel to keep flowing into the carb (and back out) Keep up the good work and info helps loads... regards from petrol smelling hands in London 👍🏻

@midwestmotoring 3 года назад

Do you have mechanical fuel pump? If the diaphragm leaks it will pour fuel in through the side of the block. That's my leading guess.

@oifatso989 3 года назад

Yep have a mechanical fuel pump which was changed 7/8 months ago. Engine oil level was fine before the carb rebuild but once the carb leaked fuel overnight I assumed it caused the fuel in engine. Maybe worth rechecking fuel pump diaphragm?

@midwestmotoring 3 года назад

I definitely would suspect the fuel pump. With a mechanical fuel pump, it would only be possible to have fuel pressure with the engine running. If the engine is running, then too much fuel leaking down the intake would go out the exhast, not into the oil pan--so it would be burning very rich. I bet your fuel pump has failed and is leaking into the side of the block. Either that, or it's not fuel that caused your oil level to increase. Maybe coolant? The auto choke leaking is probably a separate issue. Maybe just a bad gasket. Make sure you know whether it's fuel or coolant, and that will give you a clue what needs repair.

@oifatso989 3 года назад

I checked the coolant level and it’s at maximum... I was assuming it was fuel from the carb! My bad will check the fuel pump tomorrow. I put a new gasket on the automatic choke but will pull off the carb re check the float height and gaskets... thanks for the reply appreciate it.

@midwestmotoring 3 года назад

No worries! I hope this is all helpful. It can be difficult to diagnose things remotely, and I'm hardly a pro to begin with.

@jessecastro8898 Год назад

My 75 MG stromberg carb, at the bottom of float bowl leak profusely fuel coming from that plastic screw type fitting that's very lose and does not tighten when turn. That is the main problem I have, how to secure it correctly. A problem I've dealt with more the once. Any suggestions?

@jessecastro8898 Год назад

I just replaced the plug and seal. It's now sung as a bug.( tight). Hope that will stop the fuel leak which was definitely coming from there. I also adjusted the float 16 to 17 mm. Thanks to your video info. Thanks again. I'll keep you updated.

@midwestmotoring Год назад

Good luck! I'm glad the videos help.

@regularchampentertainmentllc 8 месяцев назад

Hi sir , I need your assistance with my Tr6. My rear carburetor was leaking , with your help , I changed the needle valve , it stopped leaking for few hours on idle , I then test drove it and it started leaking again. 😢. Help !! Should I change the distributor? Help ! I replaced the fuel pump too.

@midwestmotoring 8 месяцев назад

If the carburetor is leaking, it's either 1) the float isn't closing the float valve, 2) the float valve isn't sealing, 3) your fuel pressure is too high, or 4) the system isn't venting properly. If you've been in the carburetor recently you've probably checked the float and replaced the needle valve. Assuming you set it correctly, I'd check the fuel pressure. Anything over about 3 is too high (the carbs will operate just fine with 1-2psi).

@regularchampentertainmentllc 8 месяцев назад

@@midwestmotoring thank you so much, I will check the fuel pressure

@NickHarman 4 дня назад

@@regularchampentertainmentllc A slightly thicker gasket fuel pump to engine will reduce the pressure

@Colormanify Год назад

👍🏻

@midwestmotoring Год назад

Thanks!

@ChristianHasselberg Год назад

My 13mm seemed to fit

@midwestmotoring Год назад

Might be looser than mine. I can make a 1/2 inch or a 13mm fit, but it's VERY tight. I believe it's a 3/8W that's something like a quarter mm larger.

@jackejr74 11 месяцев назад

Personal Recommendation: Please never do this work without totally rebuilding the Stromberg Carburettors! The amount of debris shown in the video indicates really bad gas quality or a significant period of time has elapsed since the last carburettor maintenance (so it is probably time for rebuild). Just getting “back” on the road sets you up for a Roadside breakdown in the future). Doing this work with the carburettor(s) on the car does not allow a good inspection for other issues. Also replacement of the fuel filter should be considered SOON…. ENJOY!!!

@midwestmotoring 11 месяцев назад

Carburetors do not need to be periodically rebuilt unless the car sits frequently or unless the mileage is so high as to have created sig ificant wear. A rebuild here would be akin to changing the water pump because the belt is loose. It's false economy to go through rebuild kits when the fix is simple. That said, there is a lot to be said for having a clean area where the work is being done, and a job worth doing is worth doing fully, so I appreciate the comment and should have cleaned the area before starting.