Fabulous video Sir. Thanks for taking the time to do it. For me...the best thing about the internet is finding out how to do things...mechanical, construction,....even cleaning a gun. Guys like you who share their knowledge about how to do things....sign of your goodness as a human being. Seriously. we are lucky when we run across guys like you who share secrets of the trade for the guys who are clueless.....like me
Thank you so much for those kind words really means alot to me. comments like this is what makes me to keep going and improve my content everyday day. blessings and thanks for watching.
Great video I was able to remove the two top latch mounting bolts, and used the empty holes to spray WD 40 into the latch. This allowed the spray to reach the necessary spot to free up the sticking linkage, now the door works perfect.. 10 minute fix all work performed from outside the Odyssey at the rear latch on the sliding door. Thanks to your video
Thanks for the video. After replacing the roller assembly didn't solve the problem, came across your video and it showed me what to do next. Just fixed the driver side sliding door.
Thank you so much for this video! Neither door was working even after replacing the side rollers. I decided to try following your suggestion by pulling the latch mechanism and cleaning it. When I put it all back together, the door still didn’t automatically close initially, but I pushed it back into the fully open position and suddenly the switch started working. Repeated the whole process on the other side and the same thing happened. Both doors are now working and the current leak that has been draining the battery for more than a year is now gone! I’m so grateful that you spent the time to take us through this! Thanks again!
I bought my Odyssey yesterday and talked the dealer down $500 because the left sliding door would not work. Based on what you showed in this video but without taking anything apart I sprayed the latch mechanism with brake cleaner (which blew out a lot of debris) then soaked it down with penetrating fluid and my door started working! Thank you so much!
Glad it worked out for you. That's the first thing on all the honda odysseys that I have fixed with that issue. It is really common. I would advise you to do the same thing on the other door to prevent it from failing
Thanks Michael and JVFIX! My passenger sliding door (2007 Odyssey) stopped working and there was a battery drain of almost 1 amp. All the fuses and relays were fine, and I did not think this switch would be the problem, because the interior lights did go out when I closed the door by hand. But I sprayed some caliper cleaner in there anyway and as if by magic, the door started working again and the battery drain is gone. So apparently there are a myriad of switches in there controlling different things, and we should not assume that the operation of the interior lights is telling the whole story! JVFIX, maybe you could go a little deeper about the different switches and how they interact?
@@jamesschofield9023 I've got a door that doesn't function and I've previously had a parasitic draw that I never took the time to figure out because if I drive it daily, it seems to be a non issue. Sounds like I'm going to get two birds with one stone when I repair my door! That would be fantastic because I wasn't relishing trying to track down the parasitic draw!
Thank you for taking the time to post. Latch switch was my issue as well on a touring edition 06 235k vehicle. I’ve replaced the cable before in both doors but this was a new issue. Symptom- DS worked fine. PS door has no feedback from the dash switch, key FOB or door hand on interior or exterior. Checked fuses first (two per door plus backup fuse) but all checked out. Went to RU-vid! The live data from your tool allowed me to narrow in on the issue. Did not disassemble, but blew out debris with compressed air and PB blasted the latch multiple times. Did the other door while I was at it as PM. She’s alive again. Thanks again. Your time taking this video is much appreciated.
Just fixed my van's door by following this awesome video. You saved me tons of $$!! The only thing I also had to do was pull the 7.5amp "Backup" fuse from the panel under the drivers dash, wait 10 seconds, then plug back in. I think that resets it, got that from another video. Anyway thanks a ton!
I been doing this to my van, (disconnecting the 7.5 fuse) but after that I use the door a couple of times and stops working again, I go to the fuse, do the proses again and after a couple opens and closes, stops working again. 😢😢 Thanks!
Helpful note; I needed to clean the contact spring as well, but I did NOT release any of the cables except for the one plastic clamp near the screws towards the rear. You will see this clamp at 11:14. If you freeze the video at 11:15 you will see the last clamp just below the white wire. The clamp is just above the yellow marking on the black cable. The motor WILL come out far enough to easily work on the micro-switch and spring. Just have some paper towel or rag to absorb the penetrating oil you need to spray to loosen up the spring. Just keep working the spring back and forth to loosen the debris buildup. Also, the bottom bolt, to release the motor, attaches to a piece of metal that straddles the channel that runs vertically between the motor and rear of the door frame. You will "feel" this channel if you simply put your hand in there. You need to PUSH that channel TOWARDS the outside wall of the door panel to finagle the motor out. That piece of metal may fall off the channel. No worries. Just slip it back on the channel AFTER you get the motor back into the door. The piece has a hole in it which receives that lower bolt. This may sound confusing, but once you work on it, it will be very apparent. This is NOT a difficult procedure. Just be patient and it doesn't take more than an hour (75% of that hour is simply figuring this out as you go along). Good luck!
Not sure how dude got dizzy with your video bruh but I can say great job showing this repair and thanks a million! Definitely helps. I’ll try this on my 06 van that has the same problem plus when I close it manually it pops open from the back , any intel would be great. 👍🏼👍🏼
I’m just a lube tech/tire guy, and I futtsed around with changing the rollers cause they were messed up and they wouldn’t open easily on my passenger side and I wanted to fix that, I did, and now they open manually totally fine, then when everything was all back together to see if the doors would close and latch but the back latch on both sides doesn’t grip into the body leaving the doors open just a crack. Was not looking forward to tracking that down but I feel you have just made it so this can possibly be a positive learning opportunity for myself.. so thanks
Thanks to everyone in the comments, I went to the latches on both sides of the doors and sprayed them down with penetrating fluid, wiped them with a cloth, and I also had a little brush next to me I used and the door started to work again. While spraying down the latches I also took off the tailight and side piece and cleaned the wire and roller and after all of that, it finally works 🙂
Very good nice idea before time am one car all open back side panel and motor change but not working this switch motor complete change door slide after
Great video. That process fixed the pulling door in too far and then releasing. However, when in drive still beeps like it's open. Any idea what else to do other than replace the latch?
This was an excellent video, and thank you so much for making it. I had a question will this work on my drivers side sliding door that seams like there is no power going to it?
Thanks for responding after disconnecting the cables that go to the sliding door the door worked again. I guess by disconnecting it it reset the module. I tried disconnecting the battery before thinking it would reset the module but it wouldn't fix the problem of no power to the driver's side sliding door. Then by disconnecting the door connectors the module came back on. In regards to the parasitic drain I found that taking the plastic pieces on the locking mechanism off allowed the doors to fully lock and not pop open again solving the parasitic drain problem as the modules on both doors could go to sleep.
Thank you. I’ll give this a try. My door works Intermittently. What city are you in and what do you charge for this type of repair if I’m unsuccessful? Thank you!
what are you using to get the initial diagnostic reading - that computer/tablet looking thing? will auto zone do that for me? the local dealership says its $125 just to diagnose my sliding door problem.
It's an Autel scanner. If you go the autel website you'll find different models. And autozone won't be able to read this they only give you check engine codes.
Hello, thank you for posting, "B1222 Code - Short In The Rear Mode Control Motor Circuit" pointed me to this video, can someone point me to the correct fuse location for this circuit, I am measuring 1.7 amps draw inline on the negative terminal, thank you.
@@JVFIXLLC actually really NOT the battery started holding charge, my ~$50 clamp meter used inline had poor small range when I switched to a quality HP meter I started getting sub-zero amps readings. However since that time (2 months ago) I have the sliding doors power switch, located on the left of steering wheel, OFF, I have not re-enabled it and tested for a current draw inline so the problem may still be around with my left/driver sliding door not working. I don't know what to say about Honda vans a hate/love relationship at best :) there is plenty of design-to-fail parts all around the vehicle, I know same with lots of vehicles out there.
Hi there. Tried scanning a honda odyssey 2002 with an otofix d1 lite (autel software), but for some reason the scanner gives me a "no response" result for the body electric module. Any idea what this "no response" could mean?
@@JVFIXLLC Thank-you for the answer, But I'm talking about the switch on the lock, it's actually not a switch it has 3 wires, it's not the micro switches they have 2 wires. I put my multimeter on the black and red rotated the switch nothing, put it on the yellow black rotated, nothing. Don't know for sure, I even looked for ohms, nothing.
I’m having similar problem with the left sliding door not opening for 2019 Honda Odyssey you think it could be the latch not being released… when I press the switch by the steering it beeps but the door doesn’t open
first check if you have dirt in there it could be obstructing a little switch not allowing the door to be closed and if it does not work it will need a deeper diagnosis.
i would advise you to remove first the latch and check if any dirt got stuck in the switch 90% of the vans i have fixed always have the same issue if you had a scanner it would be so much faster to diagnose it but try that first and let me know.
I have a 2005 odyssey. My right sliding door opens and closes fine 2 or 3 times but on the 4th try the sliding door light comes on my dashboard and the door won't even try to open. Do you have any idea what might be happening.
try to open it manually and spray w40 at the back of the sliding door it has 2 latches one at the back and one at the front they usually get clogged with dirt building up overtime and blocks the switches making thinking the module that the door is not locked
the switch for one side door doesnt do anything and we noticed (not sure if has anything to do with it) the same side tail lights dont work. brought to dealer but they dont seem to have much training and couldnt figure it out. van was in shop 9am-2pm. Shouldnt they have a scanner to guide them?
@@JVFIXLLC thanks. Van went in shop 9am today. Dealer never called us. Around 530 got VM that they never got chance to look at van. We miss good customer service that seems has vanished
the unit that controls the door? I honestly have never changed one but who knows anything could happen. I would start by checking with a scanner if there's any communication with that module and checking all fuses first too.
@@JVFIXLLC paperwork said recommend replace slider control unit and right below that had a description on ECU so thought was weird because ecu has nothing to do with door. All we could think of is they want charge us the price of ecu for a slider unit otherwise doesnt make sense. We read reviews of this dealer and seems known for scamming customers
Thank u! I have 2012 Honda Odyssey can’t open or close automatic or manual mode it’s stuck in almost close mode when I forced to try to close the door. Other side worlds just the passenger side sliding door. It began slowing down closing for awhile or it may close halfway automatically then reopen. Now it doesn’t open or close at all.. please help?
Sounds like u have a latch problem and if it doesn't open from outside or inside u will need to remove the panel from inside to be able to open the door unfortunately.
suena como si la Palanca para abrir la puerta estubiera atorada en abrir. y tambien puede que el switch donde esta el chofer tambien este pegado. es dificil saber solo con un scanner puedes ver Los valores en vivo y asi encontras la falla mas pronto
@JVFIXLLC I got the panel off but that part you took out is stuck. I took all the screws out and window rail and that part with the lock won't come out because its stuck in lock mode.
@@edward3441 ok then u have 2 latches at both ends of the sliding door and u have to pull both cables so both can be opened at the same time u will probably will need help to do it.
it's called ratchet micro switch but the Autoparts will want to sell you the whole part it's a common issue for the door to build up dirt and get the micro switch stuck making see the ecu that it's still open.
@@JVFIXLLC my problem is that I can pull the fuse to reset the slide door and after a few cycles it will set the light again and the door will not work... Mine is the passenger door do u have a video on that side? And is there any direct way to contact you with questions.. I plan on tackling this issue within the next 2 weeks
My 05 Odyssey passenger side door window motor gets hot with engine off key out. If all plugged in drawing around 700 ma, so I have to keep fuse #7 (back up) out. Also, window will only go down, will not go up. I had to use a power probe to manually get the window up. Any idea what it could be?
A module controls the windows for the odyssey. And those nodules are located at the back pillars of the van there are modules separate for each door. You will need an electric diagram to see the colors of the wires at the module because they change a bit
