Trick for getting the contraption in front of the window track when you’re putting everything back together: I used a long dandelion digger (I have one but I don’t dig up those beautiful dandelions). But a long strong screwdriver would have worked too. I put it into that key shaped screw hole and used it to lever the window track over. The contraption slid right in. The key shaped hole that I’m talking about is the uppermost one that is inside that Hans said you really didn’t have to take that screw out because it’ll fit through the wide part of that key shaped screw hole. You can see this key shaped screw hole at 20:38 Hans is putting that upper screw into it. A word of caution, I did not take that upper screw out in the beginning because it fit through the wide end of the key shaped hole. But when I put everything back together that screw bent the lower edge of the key shaped hole because I had too much of a strain on it. So I had to use a hammer to gently bang the edge back to normal. Also, that glued on rubber guard that goes over the two upper screws on the outside back of the door was almost completely off on my door and it was hanging down so I think it was probably interfering with the latch. I left it off. May have been the problem all along, but the mechanisms inside the contraption were gunky and sluggish anyway. Thanks a million, Hans, for an excellent video; I followed it step by step and my door is completely fixed and working again. No unlatching 2 seconds after latching and no door alarm while driving. I am very glad you showed how to put everything back together also! Thank you!
@@hanspoole thank you again. Next project for this old Grammy is …. the washing machine… I replaced the cogs but I think another little thingy needs replacing too!
No joke! Was dealing with a constant dead battery about the same time one of the rear doors stopped working, stumbled upon your video, did exactly what you did, and wah lah! The rear door is working perfectly and no more battery drain! You're awesome keep up the good work!
i actually extend out fuse 7 back up out to a switch and literally turn it off after locking the door then prevent the drain after extensive dig into where the drain is
Easy way to lube the inside of those puppies is to remove just one of the three latch mount bolts on the back outside of the door stick your lithium grease straw through the hole and spray inside. Replace that bolt and move onto the next bolt repeating the same step until you've done all three bolt holes. DO NOT REMOVE all three at the same time. One at a time and replace each one individually. This worked perfectly and saved a ton of unnecessary work and. anguish.
As you suggested, I also opted (for now, at least) to remove the 3 screws one at a time and spray WD-40 into the holes in order to try and lubricate and clean whatever mechanisms inside were gunked up. I also cleaned and WD-40 lubricated the latches / moving / closing mechanisms at both the front and back sides of the door. I will try to update my comment in a few months indicating if this is a permanent or temporary fix. (I suppose based on other comments, I may need to go back and use a spray lithium grease instead of just the WD-40.)
Interesting I just happened to buy Lithium grease spray can at Walmart today for like 6 bucks. I will try the 1 bolt at a time now instead of taking it apart just to see if it works. First I'm going to hook a multi meter up to confirm the issue
Well done! If you measure the parasitic draw before the repair, it is about 370 mA - 400mA. After the repair it will be around 20 mA. That upper screw in the "key hole" slot is meant to be loosened until it gets hard to turn but left in the latch. Then during removal it does fit through the hole. The reason you had to use the ratchet all of the way out is because of the interference threads that keep the bolt from falling out during shipping/assembly. Also the bolt you reinstalled in the "key hole" slot should go at the bottom. The flat washer on the bolt for the window run channel lower bracket is because the hole is slotted, so the washer adds support when bridging the slot. All in all, a great DIY video.
A couple of questions. Mine has the 380 mA draw. Does this still happen even though door open indicator does not come on? Does the parasitic draw still happen even though you turn off the switch on the dash so the power doors don’t work? I pulled the fuse and still have the draw. Could it still be the same problem? Basically, how can I be sure this is the problem before I tear the door apart? Thanjs
@@bobh6728 I am in the process of also repairing this problem. The light on the dashboard does not tell me that a door is open. But if you close the door manually you will notice that the door at the back does not get pulled in tightly to the frame of the doorway. You can actually unplug the doors from working automatically at the rear right-hand side of the van, . But you need to pull the plastic side panel off enough so that you can reach the plugs. I think it's called the rear MICA. This is the area where the heater blower is located. While I agree with absolutely everything in the video I will add that there is at least one electronic component that if bad will also keep your door from working properly. If you look in the video you will see one or two of them and they are green in color. I think they are called an actuator switch? I purchased new ones from an online electronics company and they were only about $7 each. Might as well replace them if you're going to do all that work anyway. My 2 cents.
What a money and time saving video this is! I literally sat in my van with your video pulled up and walked through every step with you. My door now works perfectly. Thank you for your effort.
I never leave comments but you sir have saved me a bunch of money that I do not have at this time. It was driving me crazy. I was afraid to attempt it at first but with your video I had no problems. Very detailed. Thank you thank you thank you.
Great information. I have been trying to figure out why my door was not working and my battery was dead every morning for days now. I thought the door motor was dead. Your fix worked for me and saved me a big bill at the dealer. Thank you.
Some notes: Do not remove the upper trim on a cold day; the trim plastic will be more brittle and can break when pulling out the plastic trim pegs. My door handle did not have the metal circlip attached. I spent some time groping around for it before determining it was absent, and could just pull out the handle. The inner door handle has three cables attached to it. If any one of these hangs up, the door will have problems closing. Since you have the panel off, you should squirt some lubricant into the front latch assembly. It was sort of tricky to do this, but I could bend the squirt straw through a hole in the sheetmetal and guide it in with my other hand reaching into the door. This helped free up the inner door handle cables. I bought a used rear latch assembly for $100 off ebay. The little hinges and whatnot moved ok on the old one, after cleaning and oiling, but the plastic around the latch was shredded to bits. Also, one step I had to do once I got the new one in was jump the closer motor to pull the door shut for the first time after reassembly. I don't know if the computer thought it was open, or what. No amount of prescribed resetting hacks (pulling fuses, disconnecting battery, etc) worked. I clamped alligator clips to the pins inside the socket he's detaching at 7:45 and ran the motor off a little 12 V charger.
Initially looking for a video that addresses the door closing issue and not realizing that that was also the cause of my battery draw that I am experiencing also. Thanks for the video, nice job!
Thanks for the video. I wasn’t having battery drain but the door wouldn’t “know” it was latched and the warning beep would come on when I put it in drive and stay beeping throughout the whole trip. It would be like this for hours or sometimes days. Now that I know where the problem is likely to lie, I’m going to tear it apart! Much appreciation!
Thats exactly my problem, thank you for the details. Interesting mention of yours was about stopping the doors from closing automatically while working on this problem by switching off the auto door operation, by switching it off on the dash. That got me to thinking,… wonder of i switched to off,… if the drain would go away, just for testing purposes….. “ It did stop the drain “ on my problem. If I switched it back on and cycle the doors… open and closed again the drain came back and would not go away. This simple test verified that the door latch switched is my problem. I can leave the doors in manual mode till i have time to do exactly what you did in the awesome video.
Fantastic job showing exactly how to... step by step. Nice filming job, superbly edited too. Simply the best how-to car fix I've ever seen!! Hats off to you from a guy who has been doing this for 45 years...
Thanks for the video. I've been looking on how to repair this exact thing for about a month now. Part is incredibly expensive so i needed i cost effective way to repair. Again thank you
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. This was the most ambitious DIY car repair ive done and there is no way i do it without your help. You saved me a bunch of money. Wahoowa!
You are right about having to use oil or lithium grease. I did this to my doors a few years ago, but only used WD40 silicone spray and the problem came back. Now I have to do it again, so your video is super helpful. By the way, those hooks up top do come off, but they slide up and then pop out…I know because I broke mine and bought new ones.
My 07 odyssey has the same symptons. Drains the battery after a couple days if not driving it. Blend door actuators going bad, Door sliders also bad. Everything else will go bad all at once. Cars a junk after 15 years. They should make cars simple again. Thanks for the video lesson.
Found the needle I needed in the hay stack. Thanks to Google long tail keywords and the creation of your VERY thorough video, my battery is not draining anymore and my door actually works now. It didn’t just fix the latching, but my entire system. I appreciate you creating this! Thanks again.
We just bought a 2000 Honda odyssey EX for $800. The car does not start normally, and we were told the power sliding doors do not work. I assume the doors are causing parasitic battery drainage. The car has to be jump started every time you need to use it with a jump start kit. When using the doors manually, it seems like the power sliding doors do not latch properly, and I am starting to feel like this video may be our fix, but I don’t know how comfortable I feel preforming this myself.
The thing not starting normally and problematic power sliding doors are two diametrically different issues. Tackle the doors, if you are so inclined, only AFTER you have remedied the starting problem.
Thank you a MILLION times for posting this video! It was incredibly helpful. I had the same problem on my 2005 Odyssey EX and while I didn't undertake this entire process, it helped me understand and ultimately fix my issue. I opted (for now, at least) to remove the 3 screws one at a time and spray WD-40 into the holes in order to try and lubricate and clean whatever mechanisms inside were gunked up, as recommended by on of the commenters in this thread. I also cleaned and lubricated the latches / moving / closing mechanisms at both the front and back sides of the door. I will try to update my comment in a few months regardless if this is a permanent or temporary fix. I only need my Odyssey to last another year or two at the most, and we no longer chauffeur our kids or other people around in the car too often, so I am hoping this can stay fixed for the near term. If not, I'll be back to this video for more guidance on how to remove the door panel and get this thing cleaned and lubricated properly.
Hello. I unscrewed the screws and squirted some spray white lithium grease in through the front and back holes. Because I am in no position to crawl in the back of my van and attempt what Hans Pool has done I tried your method. I’m in a wheelchair. So far so good. It’s closing and opening every time and I can’t detect any drain on the battery, parasitic draw or alarm going off. I still don’t trust it so I’m disconnecting the battery every night until I test it more. But if this works, I’ve just saved myself over $2000. I think I’ll put it on my phone calendar to lube it up that way every six months - pending final results. Thanks much for your suggestion!!!
This video was very useful!! It shows exactly how to fix the issue. One thing I would recommend is using a rag rather than the pick for the very first step, taking the door handle off the panel. There is a different video showing how to do it. Everything else is top notch!
@@hanspoole I meant to say rag. Slide a rag at the back of the handle, pull down and to a side and the clip should come off. Make sure you don't loose it. 😉
This is a great video you did a really good job! I found the micro switches online for only $7 each so I'm going to be repairing my doors and I will replace the switches anyway since my van is 18 years old with 340,000 miles! I prefer not to go through all that work and then not have my doors operate lol 😆 thank you again!
Hi. Thanks for the video. I just got stuck today. Gas cap not opening and door also stuck, same thing 3 beeps and nothing. Now the problem is, I don't have gas in my odyssey. So can't go anywhere. Did you have the same issue, or you gas door was working? Is there any way I can open the gas tank manually? Please help. Thank you.
I don’t need the door to open & close, I just need the battery drain to stop. What fuse(s) can I remove to break the power connection and stop the drain?
@@hanspoole Very thorough video and follow up comments! I was on the verge of installing an in-cabin battery disconnect switch in my 2007 Odyssey, but your video gives me new hope to address a root cause! Thank you.
Hello Hans. Thank you for this YouTu be video. I was able to successfully get my power sliding door operating again on my 07 odyssey. However, now the problem is the window won’t come back up now that I have put it down. I wondered if any of your other viewers have had a similar issue and if so, do you know how they corrected it? The next thing I’m going to do is check all the fuses to see if that is the problem. Again, thanks for the video. I’ll find out in a couple of days whether it fixed the drain on the battery.
Thanks for your response . After inspecting the switch on the door, I found the harness the switch plugs into wasn’t making full Contact . I was able to use electrical tape to hold things in place and the window gos up and down now. 😀 not sure how long this will last but the window is up for now. I may need a more permanent fix but this is good for now.
Thanks for the video, Hans. This is exactly the problem I am having so I will give this a try. Your video is nice and detailed, so I feel like I can tackle the job.
I have this problem in my 05 EX-L with 202k miles. I pull the fuse for the doors at night to avoid the battery dying...but I am so happy you made the video of how to fix the doors! Thank you so much! I'm going to work on mine this weekend. Unfortunately I also need center rollers on the opposite side, so I have my work cut out for me!
Wow impressed! Totally worked! 2006 Honda Odyssey. Had a battery drain in a couple hours would be dead, sliding door stopped working automatically. Now not draining battery at all and sliding door motor working after cleaning and lubing as instructed in video. Took it to two mechanics, one gave up and the other said it was the micu computer for $1500, going to share this vid with them. I never leave comments. Thank you so much!
I had this same issue and it only happened in the winter. I replaced the mechanism instead of cleaning/lubricating, but a very thorough and helpful video.
Been trying to get it back in for a few hours….quit for the night and will try again tomorrow! There’s a big bump that I just can’t squeeze past the window track….maybe the bump goes under the track? I can’t tell. My arm’s black and blue from holding that track and trying to get the contraption to slide in past it. But all else went well and thank you very very much for great video and explanations! From an ol’ Grammy who always tries to fix things herself! Next after this is the washing machine!
Third time watching one of these videos. I was originally searching for why I could not open the door at all. At 11:40 you explained my problem. Excellent thank you for the thorough and detailed explanation 👍 👍 👍 now I know what the problem is 😎
Thanks to you I've finally fixed the problem I had with my van. Spent 2 MN winters turning off my battery every night with a twist switch, not knowing where this drain was coming from. I always suspected the doors but couldn't be 100% sure and couldn't spare the expense. Very nice video, easy to follow along!
So your door wasn't beeping at you and the battery was draining? Ppl are saying their door alarm was beeping but mine isn't and my battery is draining overnight
@@Miamijunglist Mines the same way. No beeps or warnings but one time I turned and the passenger door literally slid open. My battery is fine if I drive every day but 2 or more days leaves it dead. I've just been using my portable jumper every time but figured now that it's warmer I need to fix it. I suspected the doors were the problem. I am going to test the fuse etc before tearing into it.
If anyone is having this problem . I just fixed mine easily… I did exactly what the video showed.. still had the drain.. come To find out the the other door had the same issue!! I opened both doors and sprayed a generous amount of wd-40 inside the rear door latch on both sides - closed and opened the doors a few times - and the problem is now solved!! Good luck and thanks for this video
Took my '05 Odyssey into the shop today thinking I had an alternator issue. They called me back a couple hours later and said that my battery and my alternator are good and that they picked up on a parasitic draw, likely for the back doors, so they removed Fuse 7 from the driver's side fuse box and the parasitic draw went away. I know exactly which door it is too thankfully. It's the passenger side back door. We had opened it one day to get stuff out and then went to put the van in gear and it gave that buzzer sound as if the door was open. Opened and closed it a few different times to resolve the issue and it worked. However, the last time we had folks in the back of the van and it made the buzzer sound when we put it in gear, we just turned the power doors off so we wouldn't hear the buzzer. Now we know that we have to make sure the door gets all the way in so it doesn't drain everything instead of just turning off the power doors and calling it a day. One downside about running around without that Fuse 7 is that now the interior auto lights don't come on when the door is open, I can't use the FOB to lock/unlock the vehicle, and the power locks don't function without the vehicle being turned on. The guy at the shop said that he wouldn't be able to fix the issue and that I would have to take it to a Honda dealership. I'm not skilled with vehicle repairs or anything, I'm more of an electronics (computers/phones/etc) guy, nor do I have the space to work on it myself, so I'll either see if I can find someone to replace that latch or see if getting the latch cleaned out will help prevent the parasitic draw.
Yup, that sounds exactly like what I experienced before cleaning up the latches. We got pretty use to shutting off the door switch every time we put the van in gear🤣. I'm surprised you're able to get the door to close fully by just giving it a few tries. My guess is that it's just barely gunked up enough for it to not work sometimes, but not so much that it never works. Good luck getting it fixed!
Thank the Lord above, you just saved me and my mother 1200 dollars plus on repairs for BOTH rear latches which were starting to go out, and the passenger side latch was even more locked up than the driver's side. I cannot thank you enough, and if you have a Ko-Fi, please give the link to it, because we would be happy to give you a donation as a thank-you.
I’m glad my video was so helpful for you! The satisfaction of knowing that my videos achieved my intended purpose is enough for me, and I am not familiar with Ko-Fi, so I respectfully decline your kind offer. Thank you for leaving a comment!
Thank you so much for this video! We've had issues with our 2009 for a couple of years now. My wife and I were able to fix it thanks to this video. It was hard to get the unit back in the door but we managed it somehow.
I'm glad you were finally able to get it fixed! I completely agree that getting the latch back in place is the hardest part, but it sure is satisfying when it eventually goes in.
Do you really have to do all of that? Is there a hacky way to clean it without going through what seems to be like a really hairy process? Also did this trigger the alarm for you? Because my cars alarm would go off.
@@hanspoole Thanks for answering! The door alarm on mine doesn't trigger anymore, it did at the start (turning the sliding door power switch to off stopped the alarm most of the time, but now it just doesn't trigger) The alarm that it did trigger was the actual car alarm. It used to drain my battery so I'm connecting and disconnecting it.
Thanks for the thorough video and for following up on the comments. Followed the video step by step, took about 2 hours, jump started the van and drove around 45 minutes. Tomorrow morning we will find out if it worked! Thanks again
@@hanspoole so the van started up this morning and the annoying audible alarm for an open sliding door is not making any noise so I think my problem is solved. Thanks you saved me a bunch of money and time, do you have Venmo?
Speculating that this problem is worse in the winter bc the lithium grease in the latch mechanism gets stiff. Seems to be a pretty common problem looking at the Odyssey forums
This was one of the best how-to videos I've seen. Very thorough, but didn't waste time with chattiness. Question: Is there a latch in the front of the door as well as the back? I am almost done putting mine back together, but....I noticed that the mechanism that seems to latch on the front...isn't free flowing and snapping back up like the other side. So, I wonder if that could also be an issue with the parasitic draw. Thanks again.
I’m looking into replacing the switch for the mechanism but I’m confused. Are there two switches in there and is one NO and the other NC? (Normally opened/closed)
I accomplished the same end result on my 2006 Odyssey by ONLY drilling two 5/32" holes (no need to take door apart). The doors started working again and the battery draw problem went away.
Someone on this list said they unscrewed the screws and squirted some lube in through the holes. Because I am in no position to crawl in the back of my van and attempt what Hans Pool has done I tried that. I’m in a wheelchair. So far so good. It’s closing and opening every time and I can’t detect any drain on the battery, parasitic draw or alarm going off. I still don’t trust it so I’m disconnecting the battery every night until I test it more. But if this works, I’ve just saved myself over $2000. I think I’ll put it on my phone calendar to lube it up that way every six months - pending final results.
I'm too lazy to take the door apart and just sprayed the heck out of the visible portion of the latch mechanism with lubricant. I'm encouraging my family to just NOT USE the driver side sliding door. This problem gets worse in the winter. Edit: this actually worked all winter! Even using the door was totally fine. Definitely five my method a try before taking the door apart.
If you take off the screw-drive you can exercise the final closing mechanism... this lets you test the switch for it without having to remove the switch. Just remember where the cam pawl was when you put it back. Bonus: you get to figure out what's going on when the final closing of the door happens... this is the magic that the funny 3-wire switch performs. That damn window track! Big thing there... it's plastic, and bends out of the way... you have to get the mechanism *inside* the window track to replace it, not easy! See the hole with the slot? Put one bolt (not the washer one!) in there to hang it on when you finally get it in place.
My situation was coupled with the symptom of a ticking/clicking noise only audible when near the fuse box. It was a pretty fast tick and didn't seem like it was gonna stop anytime soon even with the key out! I could literally feel the tick coming from the 7.5a fuse before i knew it was the one, pulling stopped the ticking! That's what lead me here lol The ticking has stopped and the door has no trouble closing anymore! I did not take the door apart as you did, I used WD to clean that wire/cord and the grooves and loaded them up with a buttload of Lucas Marine grease (i chose this grease for weather protection and its high melting point, apparently the kind doesn't matter as much) I also slapped on a silly amount of the marine grease into both latches at the front and back of both power doors. I did the trunk for good measure, wasn't having a problem there but hopefully I won't either. This worked good enough for me, literally no disassembly, i only wish I used a can of brake cleaner/contact cleaner with the long red tip to blow out the latches, there was dirt actually packed into that latch. I cringe looking back not doing it but I did it at break time at work lol (that's when i found my car died)
Thank you for this video. I cleaned out the OEM motor and it worked for a little bit but failed again. I gave up so I ordered a new motor assembly as well as door latch actuator and my door is good as new now. Thanks so much!! This video saved me hundreds of dollars in repair costs and also has prolonged the life of my 18 year old minivan which is very hard for me to part with. Only 169K miles and still running strong!
Thank you for this! Best video I've seen on this repair, by far. It's not too long at all. Showing every step is key IMO, and watching it gives us a mental run-through of how it's going to go. Going to attempt this soon. Very well done, thanks again!
If you remove that 7.5A fuse, other components on that line will stop working. If the computer is staying on waiting for an expectation and is on standby, then this is what is killing your battery. Mechanical switches actuate by turning off, on, but nothing in between. These are mechanical parts that after 1,000s of cycles will eventually go bad. Makes sense that this is causing the issue and not an electrical component.
I think this might be my issue!! My alternator is fine , battery is only a year old .. and I have to Jumpstart every day… one of the sliding doors doesent close All the way - and only works with the automatic open When it wants to… do you think this is the problem?? Any tests I can do to Make sure this is the problem before I start tearing pieces apart? Thanks so much man!!
I have a 2004 Odyssey with the same parasitic drain on battery. The #7 fuse on driver side is labelled "IG coil", 7.5w. I found the power slide fuse in panel under the hood. It's shows 30amp. If I pulled this fuse could it stop the battery drain? Or can I flip the switch inside so auto slide is OFF? Thank you for the detailed video.
THANKS . MY 2005 rear sliding door wont open when the key is inserted into the ignition switch. I get a sliding door warning light but After I remove the key from the ignition switch, then remove and reinsert the 7.5A fuse; the rear door works great. IT system acts like a short somewhere when the key is inserted into the ignition switch. I will try cleaning the door latch like you suggested.
@@hanspoole I just had my driver's side slider motor assembly replaced today and out the door it was $894 (original quote was $1183). If the other door starts I'm definitely trying your process before taking it back to Honda here in Nor Cal.
@@hanspoole That's around the amount your video saved me; it cost me no more than some time, dirty hands and penetrating oil. The door has worked flawlessly since, and no power drain. Again, thanks...
I literally paid 2200 dollars only for my doors to stop working again on a 2005 a couple years later. Now I'm trying to fix it myself cause I'll drive this thing off a cliff before I spend another dime on these doors. Stupid defect that happens to literally all odyssey models 05 and beyond
I was excited about finding this video so I took everything apart on my 07 and it looks like someone recently lubed everything and all the little mechanisms seem to be working fine. Any ideas on what to do from here? My van has all the symptoms you described at the beginning of the video
I just took apart my left side and I found gunk, leaves and other stuff around the latch mechanism. The main latch doesn’t seem smooth when actuating so I will make sure that will move after I clean it with contact cleaner and the grease it. The problem I have now is that metal window bracket piece fell down into the door. I have to get a magnetic tool to fish that one out next. But definitely the latch mechanism that makes contact with the switch has a gap between the switch lever and is not making contact.
All the symptoms look to be the same with mine as well (2006). Dead battery in the morning, doors that dont seem to fully latch. Hoping this repair will solve my problems. Thanks for the very detailed video. I'll try to repair it sometime this next week and give a simple update on how it went.
Update: I did this repair to both of my sliding doors and It totally fixed the problem of my battery being dead every 12-20 hours. I measured the current draw before the repair and it was 400mA and after the repair it dropped to about 30mA. It took me about 2-3 hours for the first door and just over an hour for the second door. Thanks for the detailed video!!!
@@jackjunk5495 Yeah pulling the 7.5amp fuse labeled "7 - BackUp" will also drop the battery amps from 400mA down to like 20mA. A quick fix for a battery draining until you can do the repair. I drove around for a week or so pulling the fuse everytime I parked it. Until I got around to fixing it using this video as a guide. That number 7 backup fuse also services the navigation system, door lights, power locks, dash lights when van is not running. and a few other things.
my question is is the door open light on from this issue? he says ot thinks the door is open but mon dont show that on my dash unless i pop it open by hand
Hello brother, I have the same problem with the video. The door does not move at all, and only the bell works Knowing that I changed the same piece that I installed Is the door programmed?
