Got the same code a few days ago. Bought a new part, old one had a huge hole in the orange diaphragm. No more code and truck runs great. Thank you for sharing this video!!! Saved me a visit to the mechanic and only took me 10 mins.
Just found this issue on our 2016 3.5l Transit 250. Easy to pull and check. Diaphragm was torn in two places!! Thanks for the help! Replacing with Ford part.
Fyi. That part was making a clicking sound and it got replaced but the issue continued. The fix was that one of the clamps was loose, and it needed to be tighten in. That fixed my issue. Check all clamps.
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! I have a 2013 F150 Ecoboost and at 50k it had an underboost code. I'm an EE so mechanical like this eludes me and I took it to the dealer. $6,500 later new turbos. Now at 100k, underboost code again. Your video is awesome and thank you for this, 25 bucks on amazon and it is now working great. Big hole in the gasket. It was easier for me to use a 1/4" ratchet after removing the hose. Again, I'm subscribing to your channel! Never going to a @#$% dealer again.
Thanks for the comment and I’m glad it worked for you. I learned some things the hard way too, so I’ve always been thankful for folks passing on something useful. Glad this video was a help to you.
Thanks for this video. I have a 2013 F150 3.5L Ecoboost and I was getting the P0299 code but it would only do it when I towed my boat. I could clear the code and during regular driving it wouldn't come on. Only when I towed my boat would I get this issue. After watching this video my son in law replaced the part for me. I then towed my boat from Lake Charles, LA where he and my daughter live back home to Austin, TX and it never came back on. If you're getting this code when towing I'd highly recommend changing this part. Also I was able to get the part at O'Reilly's for $60 rather than pay the Ford Dealer who wanted $112 for it. Also the part is now AA5Z-9U465-A.
2020 escape 1.5T, had po299, egr system hoses what not checked. 2 weeks in dealer couldn't find till, I spray silicone lubricant around cappless fuel filler kinda alot lol but 250 miles no issues, turbo works great, no power loss. Got slight better mpg as well
@williamtunnell I've read in ford forums that they suggested if no leak on egr system, hoses what not, said try cleaning capless gas filler as leakage may cause random codes which I knew turbo was fine.
2013 f150 purchased just for towing and family camping trips 170,xxx miles.. would throw code as soon as I had my 8,000 lb toy hauler trailer down on power up the 395 to Tahoe and lake June. 7600 elevation. Barely made it. Truck was getting hot and super down on power. My wife was making fun of my truck..lol Changed my bypass valve and the check engine light went off about to test it I’ll give an update after work when I take the trailer to Wash it
2015. F-150 ecoboost I’m having the same code when I pull my camper. I’ll get the P0299 code and sometimes a little wrench comes on the dash. The truck will go into low power mode and the only way to get it out is to pull over and turn the truck off and restart it. It was worse when I increased elevation.
Hello! I just had the code hit on my 2013 F150. I grabbed the Amazon part to put in. As I was taking the old part off the bolt near the wheel broke (it has more corrosion). I am going to try to rotate the part and use the other holes! Wish me luck. I just need to find another lag type bolt for it. I hope that is why Ford put the two mounting holes there. In hindsight i would have sprayed some WD40 or PB Blaster on it. Also, my old part had not obvious tear so we will see what happens. Thanks for the great video!
I installed the Amazon blow off valve and it reduced smoke a great deal. I think there is residue in the converter and exhaust which hopefully will burn off eventually. I didn't find a diaphragm tear, but if you hold to your and listen to the sound, I think I heard a difference in while pushing the plunger. We'll see. Well, replacement didn't help, as the ultimate problem was a blown turbo. I replaced the turbo and after the excess oil finally burned out of my exhaust it runs OK now.
if your oil is really low a sensor will turn off turbo also, I had a loose oil filter thus after oil change and new tight filter, reset code I was good to go.Turbo was fine.
Was taking off the old one and the bolt head snapped. Two questions: 1. Do you think it’d be ok to drive until I can get it repaired? 2. Is the solenoid something I could just drill new holes for and move slightly?
It won’t be good to drive it a lot without it, I believe, but if your valve is open you’ve essentially been doing that anyway. You won’t have to drill new holes, there’s actually 2 additional bolt holes. Thank you Ford engineers!
When your truck would throw the fault would it ever go into limp or de-rate mode? My torque converter is slipping and when I pull anything regardless how heavy or light when I hit any incline service light comes on and trucks goes into limited de-rate. I can shut the truck off then back on and de-rate goes away but the engine light stays on and it gives the same fault code P0299. Any input would be grateful.
So Terry, I had this exact same thing happen to me while getting the P0299 code. Ultimately, I had two problems. One was the part featured in this video, and the other was that I had to replace my throttlebody. No idea why, and very strange that both of these problems were happening at the same time. Nevertheless, the throttlebody worked and I’ve never had limp mode again.
I have that code and 5 more. I've changed cam sensors crank sensors the valve you replace the air-cooler as well. And still nothing has fixed the problem wich is weak acceleration. Idk what else to do but take it to dealership
@shanewest9819 actually, this post was my problem one before, but when I kept getting the code (only while towing my camper), I found this other part that had failed. Here’s a link to that repair. Very easy. Error code P0299 Turbocharger underboost- Ford 3.5 L Ecoboost. Turbocharger bypass solenoid valve. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RWdnu9t1d3s.html
2016 expedition, 118k. kinda sluggish off the line, but has good power at higher rpms. No codes. I first removed the connector from the boost valve and found it to be full of oil. My suspicions is a tear or leak in the diaphragm which is not visible. Any Thoughts?
Hmm, well this diaphragm is in a blowoff valve which lets off boost pressure when necessary. So the code throws when it leaks and won’t allow normal pressure to build up. The code, then, is an “Underboost”. The turbos are fine, but the computer thinks it’s not getting enough boost - because it’s not. With your issue arising at low rpm and no code, I’m not sure this is your fix. But for $35, it’s not an expensive experiment. My code would come in under load. Hard acceleration or towing. I certainly believe you should not be finding oil all over that valve, though. But I’m honestly not certified in anything!
I have a 2018 accord 1.5 and I got the emission system problem light came on. I went to autozone to use the OBD reader and it gave me code P0299 turbocharger under boost. And recommended most likely solution: reconnect and or re-torque intercooler hose. My local Honda dealership told me I needed to replace the turbo charger. Now watching your video, could the fix be something else than the replacement of the turbo? Any feed is greatly appreciated
Absolutely. Underboost indicates that pressure built by the turbo is being lost somewhere - or, of course, the turbo charger isn’t creating enough boost on its own. So sure, the turbo could be the problem, but there are plenty of other places that you can be losing the pressure that could be fixed much cheaper if not for free. Check all places where air could be leaking after the turbo. For that matter, check areas before the turbo as well. I’ve just learned to seek out the cheapest and easiest and simplest possibilities first before replacing a costly part. Good luck! Let us know what you find out.
Got a few questions. The check engine light came on and I went to my local auto zone to connect their little computer to it and it said I needed to replace my turbocharger wastegate vacuum hose. And the code is p0299. Is this the same thing I need to do to my rig or is it two different things. Nex, is there two of these on the truck since it’s twin turbo. The computer didn’t say a left or right
I’m surprised the Autozone scan tool got that specific, but this is not the wastegate vacuum hose. I have another video of a much easier-to-fix repair for P0299. I’ll link it below. There’s only one of these blow off valves, but there are two bypass solenoids (see other video).
Would that boost /wastegate sensor cause p0299 cause the acceleration to drag almost w no gain but rpm’s to almost max out ? And only when flooring it when turbo should kick in and the motor sounds like it’s fine . I ran live diagnostic it didn’t hit over 5 psi in boost . I’ve change granny fluid oil and filter plugs bout to change this sensor today . The rear boost sensor had bare wires and oil on it inside ? I hope this clears the p0299 code tired of the headache. Ford for ya !!!
Not sure if that’ll fix what you described; but for the price of this part on Amazon, it’s worth a shot. If your old one isn’t ripped, keep looking for your problem.
Check the electrical Connection to the High Pressure Fuel Pump, Located on top of Valve Cover Drivers Side- Either replace High pressure fuel pump or replace connector to wiring Harness Will fix This- Engine will ble sluggish and High rpms plus High fuel Consumption.
@@Zenandiath another person told me that motor that the water pumps are known to go bad and cause same issue? But it’s not overheating ik the phasers are junk in these motors as well but they would just be annoying I doubt t they’d cause this much issue ? And not making noise I was also told tps could cause it
Mine audi q5 2.0tdi goes into safe node only on highway slightly uphill after 40minuted or so. City drive no problems at all, whether you drive like crazy or normaly. But once you are on highway slightly uphill it goes into limomode. Po299 boost regulation turbo underboost. N75 and intercooler are changed. What could be the problem? I need help
Not sure what that part is called, or it’s part number. I believe it will be called a turbo outlet tube, but I’m not sure. If you still have the pin, it should snap back in place when you press the outlet tube and firmly seat it. If it doesn’t, I’d replace it.
Thanks for the reply. I ended up taking the hose off, but have no clue what’s the clip/pin’s name is. Headed to the ford dealership today and may just put hose clamp on it. Thanks again
@@tommiewatt It was called the intercooler pipe/hose. When I went to the Ford dealer back in April, he said it was on backorder for a few weeks. It was about $300 or so. Part number was BL34-6F073-AC
99% one turbo is shot. You should be able to listen to each side and determine which one it is. Highly recommend professional install on this. Good luck with and cheers!
Did you figure out which one it is that’s making racket? Good oil and frequent oil changes (5k) or twice a year , not the 7500 Ford service interval will help lubricate everything better and hopefully prevent further issues and damage. Good luck! Cheers!
It’s probably not something you should attempt in a driveway but possible with much patience. Definitely want to replace the coolant and oil lines when installing new turbos . Not for the faint hearted for sure. Also , removing the front clip , radiator , condenser and radiator support would be highly recommended to give you much more room to work. Bonus info: check exhaust manifolds for cracking/warped leaks and broken studs! Good luck! Cheers
@teenice894 I haven’t diagnosed anything further. It hasn’t thrown that code in a while now. I believe I simply have an air leak somewhere - probably a faulty connection. It only does it under load and whole accelerating. I think the turbos build enough boost to just push the air out somewhere else and cause the boost loss. It’s one of those things that isn’t bothering me, and you don’t notice any power loss so I haven’t worried with it any further. If it gets worse and more common, I’ll have to track it down.
Yes, and you’ll want to read this. First, while installing it, it pulled apart; something I can’t get the OEM part to do. However, it popped right back together and seemed to function fine. I guess it’s just made differently but it troubled me when it came apart in my hands! I just reassembled it and installed it. Seemed fine. I got the code almost immediately - same day I installed it, and under no load whatsoever; literally just cranked it up and didn’t move. I cleared it and have never gotten it again like that. This weekend, however, I did get it again and it’s doing the same as the OEM part - check engine light comes on under a heavy load (pulling my 10,000 lb. camper) and during take off. It does not send the code pulling up to 70 mph, but only if I take off heavy - and only while towing. To be honest, I’m pretty satisfied with leaving it like it is - and deleting the code. It doesn’t effect the performance that I can tell. In short, after running it for a while now, I honestly don’t believe the Amazon part is any worse than the OEM part. Sorry for the length - but that’s the rest of the story.
My bet is you damaged the new part or part was junk to start with. It’s cheap enough that I’d replace it with a genuine Ford part. Just my two cents though! Thanks again and cheers!!
@ethansasser overheat - no. Apparently the towing capacity is up around 11K or 13K. Our camper is 9600 lbs dry and empty. I can tell that a much bigger and heavier F250 or f350 would be better though.
Also, many of these codes will clear themselves after running enough “driving cycles”. In other words, if the light is still on after 2-3 days, get it cleared. Most likely, it’ll go off as the computer get a enough driving data to tell itself that the problem was fixed.
Mostly, yes. I still get the code only under certain conditions - loaded and heavy acceleration. I’m posting a second video with another possible repair for P 0299
@@williamtunnell anything helps my escape is sitting at the dealer waiting for a simple computer diagnostic to better pinpoint the issue bc we've done took it to our local mechanic twice and the engine light still came back on with that same code...
Here’s another “possible” fix. Check this one out as well - How to fix error code P0299 - Turbocharger bypass solenoid valve. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-RWdnu9t1d3s.html
Interestingly, I had the code a couple of times right after installation, so I wasn’t convinced this part was the cause of my code. Since then, it’s come up a couple of times, but the Amazon part certainly hasn’t caused me any issues so its apparently holding up just fine! It’s a good substitute, I’d say, since the factory part can be hard to find.
