HOW TO FIX CODE P0340: CAMSHAFT POSITION SENSOR & SYNCHRONIZER 2003 FORD F-150 4.2 V6

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In this video, I take you along with me while I troubleshoot and discover the reasons why Code P0340 showed up on my 2003 FORD F-150; It was running rough, stalling and surging under load. Then I found out why. Come along to see what the problem was (It's not what you might think!). Learn my step-by-step process for changing a Camshaft Synchronizer "The Right Way" and discover why some Repair Manuals give confusing installation instructions. All that here in the next 23 minutes!!!
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Disclaimer: IMPORTANT! READ!: This video may portray household, construction, automotive or other repair methods and/or activities that may not be suitable for everyone. These videos are informative but are for entertainment purposes only. Always use certified contractors, licensed mechanics, qualified electricians and professionally certified tradespeople to perform any work. Follow the advice of your local building inspector and get appropriate permits before undertaking any repairs or electrical work. Please follow all safety precautions and local Codes. Viewers are advised not to undertake any of the actions in these videos themselves. Everyday Projects cannot be held responsible for any damage, injury or claim resulting from information or instruction gleaned from these videos, whether expressed or implied.
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1 янв 2021

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Комментарии : 147

@gusguzmanjr.12 6 месяцев назад

Agree with the last guy. Great video. Very informative and well explained. Thank you.

@EverydayProjects 6 месяцев назад

Thank you very much! I tried to explain it the way I understand it. I hope your repair goes well. All the best to you, Craig at Everyday Projects

@Danny_6Handford Месяц назад

I have a 2000 Ford F150 4.2L V6 short box regular cab with manual transmission that I bought new back in 2000. It was my only vehicle back then. Since 2010 I owned other vehicles so from 2010 I only used the truck when I needed it. It now has 303,500 km. I changed the oil and filter every 5000 Km. Its been a great truck! Other than brakes and tires, I had to replace the alternator at around 260,000km and replaced the engine belt at this time and installed new shocks at this time. It still has the original muffler. I live in southwestern Ontario in Canada and for the first 10 years it was driven in the winter. If I need it in the winter now I only take it out if there is little or no snow. I am also on my third set of spark plugs and replace the spark plug wire way back at about 100,000km. The insulation on the old wires was breaking down and causing the spark to leak to the engine. This was causing the engine to lose power and hesitate when you accelerated. Today the engine started hesitating and losing power and the engine light came on. When I got home I connected my code reader at got P0340. I am old enough to remember when there was no computers, no internet and no cell phones and no You Tube, All I did was enter 2000 Ford F150 4.2L camshaft sensor in the RU-vid search box and your RU-vid came up. Technology is amazing and can be used for good things. Thanks so much for making this RU-vid! I probably would have figured out how to change the sensor but you saved me a lot of time and aggravation! Thank You sir and also thank you for excellent lesson explaining how it works.

@EverydayProjects Месяц назад

Very glad my video helped😀I’m in BC (Vancouver Island) and this truck is still on the road. I just used it yesterday. Much appreciate your comment. Take care

@kleo427 Год назад

Very clear and informative. Thanks for taking the time to explain in detail how it all works and interacts.

@EverydayProjects Год назад

You're welcome! Just remember, to change an old synchronizer for new, remove the old sensor from the top of the synchronizer then turn the engine by hand until the intallation tool can be placed easily on top of the synchronizer. Don't turn the engine again. Remove the old synchronizer and install the tool on top of the new synchronizer. Then the synchronizer can be placed in the engine. The exact degree won't matter, just so long as the wire connector will reach it. Bolt it down, put a new sensor on top and you're done.

@zacharyhuntsman7310 2 года назад

Just the video I needed. Currently replacing my engine this confused me a lot thank you

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

I hope your engine rebuild goes well. I rebuilt this engine in 2014 and here is a photo journey of the process: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-68CbNlzPOYM.html

@simtich2869 7 месяцев назад

I'm gonna start woring on my E150 ...thanks for sharing!🙏🙏

@EverydayProjects 6 месяцев назад

You can do it!

@marcstecker746 2 года назад

Great video! Beautiful, clear explanation what that 54 degree call out is actually all about. I removed the cam synchronizer with out thinking to mark its orientation. I feel much better now.

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

I'm glad it helps. I was always confused about the angle for the sensor but it is clear now. Glad to be of service. Cheers!

@jasonpoolo3523 3 месяца назад

Thank you very much for your video. You've helped me tremendously

@EverydayProjects 3 месяца назад

Glad to help😀

@dariel776 Год назад

Great video really well explained you're a great teacher!

@EverydayProjects Год назад

Thanks. It does repeat some info but overall I'm happy with the results. It takes lots of practice to get good at video making-always room for improvement.

@tombeauchamp806 2 года назад

About to help a coworker with this. Looks like it'll be fun but not too terrible. Thank you for the clear video and easy explanation of the position of it

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Thanks. Any questions feel free to post--maybe I or another viewer will answer. Good luck.

@dinowatkins7326 Год назад

Thank you that hit me very much I was so confused now I know what to do

@mm-ny9ey Год назад

What a great explanation. Thank you so much.

@EverydayProjects Год назад

Glad you enjoyed it ! Thanks

@MountainManFred Год назад

What excellent info! Thx for sharing

@EverydayProjects Год назад

Hey, no problem. I hope it helps!

@nicholasnagy2848 2 года назад

Excellent explanation.

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

I'm glad to hear you liked it. Best Wishes!

@TheFernando2445 Год назад

Thank you! good job! With this video.

@EverydayProjects Год назад

Thank you !

@r.milton7920 2 года назад

It helped me brother, thank you

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Thank You !

@RegisPro 3 года назад

Very useful info.

@EverydayProjects 3 года назад

Thanks! I hope it comes in handy when you need it. Thanks for watching.

@johnhambyphotography 3 года назад

Great tutorial.

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Thanks, John.

@markdavis1141 Год назад

Fantastic video!

@EverydayProjects Год назад

Thanks. I hope it helped with your repair.

@technometricglk9252 2 года назад

thank you good explanation and video

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Thanks. I hope it helps!😀

@Tonymalo2000 2 года назад

Awesome video thanks

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

I hope it helps. Thanks for watching.

@juanmoreno8439 Год назад

Bery good explain thanks

@EverydayProjects Год назад

You are welcome. Gracias por ver el video. Espero que haya ayudado.

@MissFlarah 3 года назад

Thank you! I was a little lost lol

@EverydayProjects 3 года назад

You're very welcome! Glad to help! Welcome to my channel!

@michaeldenson1929 11 месяцев назад

Thank you so much!

@EverydayProjects 11 месяцев назад

You are very welcome!

@andrewcrawford3608 4 месяца назад

Thank you!

@EverydayProjects 4 месяца назад

I hope it helped! It is very nice to receive positive feedback about my videos! All the Best to you!

@jonlambert1879 2 года назад

Thank you!!

@EverydayProjects Год назад

This comment just turned up now. Sorry about the really Late reply. Glad you got it fixed.

@qweef69 3 года назад

Good in-depth footage here.

@EverydayProjects 3 года назад

Thanks. The one thing that I meant to say was that once the engine is turned to line up the old synchronizer with the installation tool, not to turn the crankshaft again until after the new synchronizer is installed, but that is implied. Thanks for checking it out!

@qweef69 3 года назад

@@EverydayProjects yeah one would think that once it's on top dead center not to rotate anything until a test fire

@ramonsison6707 2 года назад

how can we order the camshaft position sensor & synchronizer ford f-150 v6 automatic 2000 model thanks

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

@@ramonsison6707 I buy from ROCKAUTO.COM They are simply the best online parts store! They have parts for almost any vehicle ever made and they ship quickly from many warehouses in the USA. I'm in Canada and it's cheaper for me to buy from Rockauto.com (parts & shipping) than buying locally.

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

@@ramonsison6707 Sorry, I just found your comment now. I order all my parts from ROCKAUTO .com . They have very good prices an they ship everywhere using a multitude of carriers. They are simply the best place to buy auto parts, period!

@ask43242flight 8 месяцев назад

One of the best tutorial on this topics Thank you very much! Question> When I turn the crankshaft clockwise to reach TDC, can I put the car in parking and with battery negative cable disconnected? It seems that my 2000 Taurus OHV U has crankshaft pulley reverse thread, then I should turn it anti-clockwise. Is that correct?

@EverydayProjects 8 месяцев назад

You can turn the engine either direction to bring the engine up to #1 TDC. Just make sure that the cylinder is coming up on the compression stroke, not the exhaust stroke. The way to tell is have a friend turn the engine (by hand) and keep a finger in the #1 spark plug hole as the piston comes up. If you feel/hear air escaping past your finger, that piston is moving up on compression stroke. If not, it is rising with the exhaust valve(s) open. Best wishes!

@ryantaube6546 3 года назад

You are correct.

@EverydayProjects 3 года назад

Thanks!

@scottt89 2 года назад

after watching countless videos and reading how to's. I came to the conclusion you can find dtc this way. thanks for confirming! did you replace the dorman with another dorman?

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Thanks for commenting. I didn't install another Dorman synchronizer. I decided to go with one by Spectra Premium (a knock-off brand). So far, it has worked well. I thought to install one from FORD but they were too expensive. I buy all my parts from Rockauto. They have great prices and ship anywhere fast. There are some videos on RU-vid that insist that the angle is critical and I wanted to show that it is only critical to a point. I hope that my work will help backyard mechanics when they are faced with this problem. Thanks again for watching and I hope to see you again! I do a mix of projects on my channel some mechanical some carpentry and many with a twist of humor! See you later.

@1976Datsun 3 года назад

Thanks for showing the process from the beginning. Any chance you know the brand of the one that failed? It looked like it actually overheated and melted some plastic, maybe from a wobbly shaft. Did you hear the chirping and squealing that typically happens before failure? And, do you think that you could have just rotated the coolant tube to make room to get the old synchronizer out, instead of draining coolant and removing the tube?

@EverydayProjects 3 года назад

The brand that failed was a Dorman. I cleaned up the sensor and there was no melting, just oil contaminants blown up from the crankcase around the failed shaft seal. The shaft was straight. I didn't hear any of the characteristic "chirping" of a failing camshaft synchronizer because the fault was from contamination, not wear in the bushing. Yes, there is a chance that I could have replaced the synchronizer without draining the coolant down but it is a very tight spot to get to, so I wanted to open things up a bit to get my hands in there. My only indicator of a pending failure was the occasional (small) loss of power until that fateful morning when the sensor was so jammed up with oil that it wouldn't relay information. That day it hesitated, stalled (about 10 times) and was almost impossible to start. I limped home (about 5 miles) by pulling off the road restarting and continuing until I made it back. Best of luck with your repair. Any questions, I'd be glad to help!

@alfredolopez-bruce6199 Год назад

An absolute beautiful, very well explained demonstration on the removal and installation of the camshaft position sensor. Thank you so much. Now I have a problem, I have a 2001 E-150 and I had this part replaced 2.5 years ago after showing me code P0300. Now, it is giving me problems, do you think the camshaft was not properly reinserted? I didn't do the job, a friend did. And now, piston #4 is misfiring. Any advice or suggestions? I did receive a code P0340 recently, saying it needs spark plugs, wires and/or ignition coil. I did replace the coil, everything else was fine. Help!!

@EverydayProjects Год назад

Camshaft synchronizers are known to fail often so it is not unheard of that you only got a few years out of yours. They do last longer, of course, but they are a known weakness in the ford 4.2 and 3.8 engines. Sorry for the late reply, I just saw this now.

@rzjk301 2 года назад

Another note if the cam synchronizer is not making a screeching noise then just change the sensor itself.

@maximilianoreartes4241 Год назад

Hola gran video! La hise arrancar mirando este video! Pero igual me gustaría comprar esa herramienta..tiene algún código que me puedas pasar para buscarlas

@EverydayProjects Год назад

Aquí está el número de pieza de la herramienta de sincronización. Número de pieza de Cardone AAZ-84-8400T También verifique Amazon.com y encontrará la pieza ¡Los mejores deseos con su reparación!

@joseemigdiocastro853 3 года назад

Como hago para instalar el sincronizador sin la herramienta especifica en un Mustang 2002 3.8

@EverydayProjects 3 года назад

Puede hacerlo si tiene cuidado. Primero, retire todas las bujías y luego gire el motor a mano hasta que tenga el pistón n. ° 1 en el punto muerto superior de la carrera de compresión. Sabrá si está en la carrera de compresión si tapa el orificio de la bujía en el n. ° 1 con el dedo mientras levanta el pistón. Sentirá que sale aire comprimido a medida que sube el pistón. De lo contrario, gire el motor hasta que el n. ° 1 vuelva a subir y verifique que el aire comprimido se escape por su dedo a medida que asciende. Lleva el pistón a la parte superior exacta del cilindro. En este punto, no vuelva a encender el motor. Retire el sensor de la leva y haga una marca en el bloque opuesto al espacio en el sincronizador. Retire y reemplace el sincronizador, colocando el espacio en el cuerpo del sincronizador en línea con una marca que hizo en el motor. Estará listo para volver a montar el motor y prepararse para arrancarlo. La mejor de las suertes mi amigo It can be done if you are careful. First, remove all spark plugs and then turn the engine by hand until you have #1 piston at top dead center on the compression stroke. You will know if you are on the compression stroke if you plug the spark plug hole on #1 with your finger as you raise the piston. You will feel compressed air escape as the piston comes up. If not, rotate the engine until #1 comes up again and verify that compressed air escapes past your finger as it rises. Bring the piston to the exact top of the cylinder. At this point, do not turn the engine again. Remove the cam sensor and make a mark on the block opposite the gap on the synchronizer. Remove and replace the synchronizer, placing the gap on the synchronizer body in line with a mark you made on the engine. You will be ready to reassemble the engine and get ready to start it. Best of luck to you my friend

@user-bh4ty8vv7x 4 месяца назад

Hey buddy will it be fine if its not 100 percent back in the same spot but close

@EverydayProjects 4 месяца назад

Just so long as the crank has not moved, you’re fine.

@Badassbass79 9 месяцев назад

I got a 05 f150 4.2l v6,code saus camshaft sensire but i chsnge syncronizwr as well. But code still shows up and in limp mode?i tryed to get it at tdc best i can .but i cant find the "0" its wore off? Can u help???

@EverydayProjects 9 месяцев назад

Take out all spark plugs. Find number 1 cylinder. Roll engine by hand until number 1 piston starts to rise in cylinder. Block spark plug hole with your finger and have engine continue to turn, raising the piston. If you feel air escaping around your finger, you are coming up on the compression stroke. Bring piston all the way to the top. Use a screwdriver sitting down in the spark plug hole touching piston and watch it as the piston rises. At the highest it raises, stop turning. That is number 1 top dead center on compression stroke. If when you begin turning by hand and you block number one cylinder with your finger as the piston rises but no compression is felt, you are coming to the top on the EXHAUST stroke. Stop and turn the engine by hand 1-full turn then begin again. Once you have the engine set at number 1 top dead center on compression stroke, you can install the synchronizer as shown in my video. Very best wishes and good luck to you!

@rubenzapata6071 2 года назад

Saludos!!!

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

De nada

@jrod7017 2 года назад

What size wrench is the EGR? (I need to buy more wrenches). Thanks for the vid. and information.

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Not sure of the exact size. You could use an adjustable wrench but I would spray the threads with Wd40 or pb blaster penetrating oil first

@jrod7017 2 года назад

@@EverydayProjects I got it changed, however, The new one squeaks louder than the old one. Any ideas?

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

@@jrod7017 A failing synchronizer will often have a distinctive chirp, chirp, chirp sound. Some of the aftermarket ones will fail miserably after only a year or less! I have been lucky with the one I installed making this video (it has been over a year). If you buy a Ford part right from the dealership you may have better luck. Maybe the seals are just a bit tight?? The squeak could be a nearby item, like the AC clutch, the alternator bearings, or an idler pulley on the serpentine belt train. Sometimes it's difficult to pin-point a noise. Try taking the serpentine belt off and run the engine for a minute to see if the noise goes away. Other times, you can isolate a noise by spraying a bit of WD40 on the parts and seeing if the noise drops off. Good luck, and let me know what you find out.

@ivanrivera9933 3 года назад

I recently replaced the whole thing just like you did. And my P0340 code keeps coming back and it runs like crap when I take it into high rpms. Any recommendations?

@EverydayProjects 3 года назад

There are several other things that can cause a code P0340. The wiring between the camshaft position sensor and the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) can have an open. Check with a continuity tester. Also, test the wires for continuity between the CRANKSHAFT position sensor and the PCM. Since they all must work in sync, a worn (stretched) timing chain/belt, or the crank position sensor, or the camshaft position sensor and its wiring can all cause the fault. Additionally, the PCM could need to be updated or replaced because of an internal fault. I'd start by testing for continuity in the wiring between the cam and crank position sensors and the PCM. If they check out, put in a new crankshaft position sensor. If that doesn't fix it, take your vehicle to a shop you trust and have them do a full scan including the PCM. Perhaps they can update it. A junkyard PCM for the same make/engine (junkyard will need your vehicle VIN number for an exact match) is less expensive than a new one, if it gets to having to replace yours. Best of luck. Thanks for subscribing!!

@cdotson0027 Год назад

@@EverydayProjectsis it likely if there was an issue with the crankshaft position sensor then there would be another related trouble code or no

@EverydayProjects Год назад

@@cdotson0027 Several codes may be stored in the system. Have the vehicle checked at a garage. You can find the codes yourself using an OBD2 code reader available at any parts store. The better scanners are very expensive and are usually owned by professional mechanics. They can often find faults that the lesser scan tools cannot. Good Luck.

@cdotson0027 Год назад

@EverydayProjects thanks there is only the one code

@metalmaniaxx 2 года назад

So did it actually clear up the error code and fix the rough idling?

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Yes, the obvious problem was the fouled sensor and because the oil fouling came up through the synchronizer, changing it fixed the problem. I used the scan tool to clear the code and all was well. Did you watch the whole video?

@jacobwilson399 2 года назад

The camshaft synchronizer wont go all the way when I try to put it in the engine and I have the tool on it what do you recommend?

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

The gear on the synchronizer has to mesh with the gear on the camshaft. The synchronizer has to rotate about 1/16 of a turn as you install it. Just push down gently after you feel the gears touch and the whole assembly will rotate as the synchronizer drops into place.

@jacobwilson399 2 года назад

@@EverydayProjects okay thank you I will try this tomorrow afternoon

@scottbrink9961 2 года назад

I was replacing head gaskets and timing chain cover crank seal had to take cam sensor out i marked it but was not at top dead center crank got turned when removing harmonic balancer so before instaling sensor i put motor at top dead center put sensor tool on and pit it back in at same mark i put on it and it starts but pops like its out of time so i dont understand your theory of it

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

What might have happened was instead of #1TDC on compression, you got #1TDC on EXHAUST stroke. Double check the cylinder numbers and that you have #1TDC (as the piston comes up you should feel air escaping the spark plug hole on #1.

@scottbrink9961 2 года назад

Did that allready

@scottbrink9961 2 года назад

And if thats true then your theory would be wrong wouldnt it

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

@@scottbrink9961 Take a break...then when you are ready, go back through everything again. Let me know on here what you find and how it worked out. Thanks for watching and I hope I've helped.

@DiezCallejeros 2 года назад

i did the exact thing and it took off a sounds it would make when i would accelerate but now truck turns off randomly not sure what it could be.

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Maybe a loose connection? Sometimes it pays to go through the basics: Make sure the fuel pump is running when you turn the key to the on position. Check and clean the plugs and wires. Check that your battery terminals are clean and tight. Good luck!

@DiezCallejeros 2 года назад

@@EverydayProjects thank you so much you were right, it was the tailpig or however its called that connects to the sensor was bad. replaced it running good so far

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

@@DiezCallejeros I'm glad to hear that you got it fixed! I have a Mazda 5 that had an air bag light on the dash for months. I tried everything I could think of, then one day I decided to change the plug at the front sensor. That fixed it! Somewhere down inside the connector, a rusty contact wasn't working. It's the little things that often fail.

@huntertucker5391 2 года назад

I removed mine and the long metal piece at the end didn’t come out with it?

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

That piece is the oil pump drive. When you install the synchronizer again, just turn the shaft until the oil pump drive goes up inside of it. It has the same flats on it as an allan wrench. Or, you could try to reach down inside and pull the shaft out with needle-nose pliers. Either way, you'll be fine.

@carolynrogers5762 3 года назад

is there a fuse in this system? if so, where ?

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

I do not believe that there is a fuse specific to the synchronizer but it would be powered through the fusebox. Any fuse for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) would affect this circuitry. Usually, a break or open with the wiring or the camshaft position sensor (mounted on top of the synchronizer) will cause a problem. Check for continuity with a multimeter. Sometimes, having the vehicle scanned at a shop will reveal problems out of reach to a backyard mechanic. Best of luck!

@nickwood502 Месяц назад

Hey the pipe that you had to move on the final step when you were going to pull the sensor out, I took that bolt out and the clamp and the thing is just stuck, I’m afraid to give it too much force as I missing something

@EverydayProjects Месяц назад

That's a coolant line into the top of the water pump. It sits in on an 0-ring. Once the bolt is out, see if you can twist and pry it out. Should come right up out of there. Maybe a spray of penetrating fluid. Don't forget to put a new o-ring on reassembly.

@EverydayProjects Месяц назад

Also, at minute 22:00 I show the little pipe and O-ring. Good luck!

@nickwood502 Месяц назад

@@EverydayProjectssounds good thanks for the quick reply! Any chance you know the size of the ring off the top of your head so I can go buy one before continuing

@EverydayProjects Месяц назад

@@nickwood502 No idea, sorry.

@nickwood502 Месяц назад

@@EverydayProjects when I’m turning the engine to get the synchro in position for the tool it hits a point where I can’t turn it any farther or it pulls back after. I apologize for the questions (I retyped this one with better phrasing) but do I need to open something due to the compression not allowing it to turn farther? Like a spark plug on cyl 1

@jacquelinebanninger5704 2 года назад

The camshaft position sensor and sychronizer assembly will not go back in with the shaft and we do not see how to do it in your video. Are you able to explain how to do it?

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

The bevel gear on the synchronizer must mesh with the bevel gear on the end of the camshaft. As you lower the synchronizer into the engine you will feel it touch the gear and then turn (about 1/8 turn) Only when the gears are meshed will it seat completely

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Also, if you are talking about the oil pump drive shaft, it has to align with the hole in the oil pump. Look with a light to see where it is. A few attempts are sometimes necessary.

@jacquelinebanninger5704 2 года назад

@@EverydayProjects Thank you

@erickmendoza2403 Год назад

Can’t get it to line up with the mark exactly would that fine

@EverydayProjects Год назад

Watch the video and it explains it. If you didn't turn the engine while the old one was out you should be fine. If the engine was turned, however, you will have to set the static timing: #1 piston top-dead-center on compression stroke before installing the synchronizer.

@erickmendoza2403 Год назад

@@EverydayProjects hey yeah I watched it over but I’m just wanting to be extra cautious, before I removed it I turned it to where the tool with the arrow would fit on the synchronizer the old synchronizer has a little play and I made a reference mark and I can’t seem to align it exactly to where my reference mark was that I put in the old one was it’s like 3/8 off

@erickmendoza2403 Год назад

@@EverydayProjects O ok i re watched it good you said it would be fine it would actually fit 360 if it was on top dead center when I removed it thanks so much I apologize this is my first time changing on of these

@EverydayProjects Год назад

@@erickmendoza2403 It does not have to be #1 top dead center when you remove it and install another IF you do not turn the engine at all when the synchronizer is out. You only have to set the engine to #1 top dead center (TDC) on compression stroke if the engine was turned while the synchronizer is out. That may sound confusing. When an engine is set up to run for the first time, #1 cylinder top dead center on the compression stroke is set and this ensures that timing components (like the synchronizer, that takes the place of a distributor for the ignition spark) have a starting reference. If you are just changing the synchronizer, you can take it out and then install another without finding #1 TDC so long as you do not upset the timing of the engine by turning it and taking it out of synchronization with the ignition spark timing. Simple to remember: You can change synchronizer by just removing and replacing, BUT if you turn the engine with the synchronizer out (or if you are setting up the engine after a rebuild) you must set the static ignition timing which is #1 cylinder TDC, before installing the synchronizer.

@erickmendoza2403 Год назад

@@EverydayProjects thanks so much! Buddy of mines kept telling me otherwise thanks gonna get it finished today.

@Lilbeasttt1 2 года назад

How do I get it to go in

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

To insert the sychronizer the gear must mesh with the gear on the end of the camshaft. You will feel the gears touch and then the sychronizer gear must be allowed to turn as it meshes with the other gear. It is usually only about an 1/16 of a turn but you'll see it.

@Lilbeasttt1 2 года назад

@@EverydayProjects I’ll try that it I having trouble putting it in

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

@@Lilbeasttt1 Add some clean engine oil to the gear first. Good luck with your repair !

@scottbrink9961 2 года назад

If all that is true then ehy is my care poping like its 180 out ?

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Do you have the installation tool? If you haven't disturbed the engine (by turning it when the synchronizer was out) the installation tool should allow you to orient the synchronizer when installing. If you are starting from a rebuild or you've turned the engine, you should set up the static timing (#1 TDC on compression stroke) then install the synchronizer using the installation tool. If all that checks out and you still have a misfire, check the wiring to the synchronizer and to the CRANK POSITIION SENSOR. They all have to work in Synch. Sometines a fouled plug or loose spark plug wire will cause a misfire. Good luck!

@scottbrink9961 2 года назад

Did that

@rubenzapata6071 2 года назад

Mi explorer mod.95motor4.0 alguna idea.si me ase,favor.

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

¿Qué le pasa a su vehículo?

@rubenzapata6071 2 года назад

@@EverydayProjects salio roto todo el sensor y lo quite sin poner a tienpo el motor.y konsegui uno husado y no se komo istalarlo.

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

@@rubenzapata6071 Tendrá que configurar el motor para que el ciín cenicón número 1 del centro muerto superior en la carrera de compresión antes de instalar el nuevo sincronizador. Retire las bujías y gire el motor a mano hasta que sienta que el aire se escapa alrededor de su dedo en el orificio de la bujía # 1. Inserte un destornillador largo en el orificio de la bujía y continúe girando el motor hasta que el destornillador alcance exactamente su punto más alto. Este es el centro muerto superior # 1. Instale la herramienta de sincronización en el sincronizador e instálela en el motor. Sentirá que el eje gira aproximadamente 1/8 de vuelta a medida que el engranaje sincronizador se engrana con el engranaje del árbol de levas. Apriete el perno de sujeción en el sicronizador, instale el sensor. reemplace las bujías y el motor debe arrancar. ¡Buena suerte! ...................................................................................................................................... You will have to set the engine to top dead center #1 cyinder on compression stroke before installing the new synchronizer. remove spark plugs and turn engine by hand until you feel air escaping around your finger on #1 spark plug hole. Insert a long screwdriver into the spark plug hole and continue turning the engine until the screwdriver reaches its highest point exactly. This is #1 top dead center. Install the synchronizer tool on the synchronizer and install into the engine. You will feel the shaft turn about 1/8 turn as the synchronizer gear meshes with the camshaft gear. Tighten the hold down bolt on the sychronizer, install the sensor. replace spark plugs and engine should start. Good luck!

@rubenzapata6071 2 года назад

@@EverydayProjects mi problema es adonde deve quedar la media luna que trae el rotor.disculpen las molestias de ante mano muchas grasias...

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

@@rubenzapata6071 Si puede encontrar una herramienta de alineación, se encuentra en la parte superior del sincronizador solo de una manera. Posiciona el arco a la izquierda, si mal no recuerdo pero no se puede adivinar. Por eso la herramienta es importante. Con la herramienta de plástico instalada en el sincronizador, instale el sincronizador en el motor una vez que haya determinado que la sincronización estática del motor es correcta (# 1 centro muerto superior en la carrera de compresión, como se explicó anteriormente). Espero que esto ayude. ......................................................................... If you can find an alignment tool, it sits on top of the synchronizer only one way. It positions the arc to the left, If I remember correctly but you cannot guess. That's why the tool is important.. With the plastic tool istalled on the synchronizer, install the synchronizer into the engine once you have determined that the engine static timing is correct (#1 top dead center on compression stroke, as previously explained). I hope this helps.

@joelgomez5986 Год назад

Yeah I'm boli u noc Bart better explains more the you

@rubenzapata6071 2 года назад

Español!!!!

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Me encantaría compartir esta información en español, pero este es un idioma que no hablo. Afortunadamente, el traductor de Google está aquí para ayudar con los comentarios escritos. Lo más importante de cambiar el sincronizador del árbol de levas es tener la herramienta de instalación y seguir las instrucciones de thw. El grado fuera de la línea central es solo una referencia, pero muchas instrucciones no explican qué es. De hecho, una vez que el motor está configurado para superar el centro muerto en la carrera de compresión del cilindro número uno, el sincronizador del árbol de levas se puede instalar en cualquier posición alrededor de 360 grados y funciona perfectamente. Espero que esto ayude. ...................................................................................................................................................... I would love to share this information in Spanish but this is a language that I do not speak. Thankfully, Google Translate is here to help with written feedback. The most important thing about changing the camshaft synchronizer is to have the installation tool and to follow thw directions. The degree off centerline is only a reference but many instructions don't explain what it is. In fact, once the engine is set to top dead center on compression stroke of number one cylinder, the camshaft synchronizer can be installed in any position around 360 degrees and work perfectly. I hope this helps.

@technometricglk9252 2 года назад

Why in the world ford make it so complicated the could make a mark in the housing and with the vane in that side of the housing at the mark .But i believe is British design they use this motor in land rovers

@EverydayProjects 2 года назад

Many engine manufactures create unnecessary problems for mechanics, this is one of them

@raziel96 11 месяцев назад

Damn fords 150 2000 🫤😖 but I had it for quite some time and still running. Now the it’s the camshaft position sensor

@EverydayProjects 11 месяцев назад

They are a know weak spot on 4.2 and 3.8 Ford engines. They often fail because of oil leaking up the shaft , contaminating the sensor. That, or the bearing surface in them wears. Good luck!