3 sets of 10-12 is what I have been doing for the past 5 months. Feel lot stronger and less pain. There are still periods of pain. (like right now). But it's a process.
These excercises plus deep massaging with an arm aid, stretching after climbing works magic for my golfer's elbow! I used to have it all the time, just managed to keep the pain level low enough to keep climbing, but it never went away. And i thought it was just something i had to live with. But after doing some eccentrics with a dumbell, bye bye golfer's elbow!
Dr Hooper thanks a lot, i watched all your videos. I admire at your work and i shared with my climbing friends. I wil just ask for a favor to add more (inner) elbow videos. After fingers, elbow is second common injury. In this video is only 2 excersise, so without a bar, inly one. I just made one week brake after pain in both elbows and i am seeking for helth :).
Thanks for commenting and sharing! Happy you have enjoyed the videos. You're right, things have changed and access to equipment is limited! TrX straps and resistance bands also work for these exercises, I'll see if I can shoot some new footage to talk about alternate exercises!
@@HoopersBeta Hi Dr Hooper, i must ask, i sufer from a golfer elbow, it is hurthing 4 weeks till now and pain get lowe only in first week and remain the same last 3weeks (low level of pain). It is unconfortable to hang with straight hands but if i bend elbow at 120 degree and hang with 50% of my weight it is without pain. So should i do it (2-3 times in week)?
It's a good bet to start with just 2 sets and see how your body responds. Once you feel comfortable with that I recommend 3 sets. If you're progressing well, you can up it to 4 but 3 is a fair and safe number.
Whats your opinion on the concentric aspect of these exercises? My understanding is it’s best to assist them for a rehab focus, but in the vid you go straight through them unassisted which surprised me. Thanks for sharing all your climbing related rehabs! I’ve benefited greatly from your concise videos over the years
Dude, these videos are really useful. The how/why of the specific movements really reinforces proper technique. Please keep making these; this stuff will help climbers for years.
Awesome! I'm really glad you found it useful. Thank you for your feedback. And yes, we definitely plan to keep putting the content out there to keep helping our fellow climbers.
Hello, i can't seem to find reccomendations on sets/reps and frequency for these. Many of your other videos (which i've been enjoying) are really clear on those points. thanks
A good exercise is Baoding style ball rotations. That is where you rotate two balls in the hand. Helps warm up and strengthen forearm muscles. This video shows example: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0zwVQgfWd74.html
THANK YOU!! I've been dealing with super painful climbers elbow for a year & the exercises in this video have helped more than anything else I've tried.
hm. I guess I could do my eccentrics even slower but basically been doing 5 x 5 heavy slow wrist curls for close to a year and while I could get back into climbing I still usually feel a twinge in one or both elbows if I try to get back into pullups (neutral or normal grip and chin ups). One armed rows have been fine at least so still getting lat work on days I can't climb. fingers only let me climb once a week.
I hadn't really considered nerve entrapment because of how the pain had developed until I took a month off climbing and really focused on the wrist curls. saying twinge in elbow wasn't really accurate it's definitely insertional on my forearm side and when it was bad had radiated all up through my forearms. Also had it develop over time ~10 years ago when trying to get to one arm pullups which without knowing anything about nerve entrapment I would assume is different. but I will check your nerve vids to see if it looks possible. Reassuring and surprising to see replies from such a large channel to a random youtube comment thrown into the void, thanks. @@HoopersBeta
yeah I just did the tests from your phantom elbow pain video and I only noticed what felt like a stretch on the triceps side of my elbow during the 2nd and 3rd test and nothing from the first test. Also don't have any of the tingling and the pain I get would be pretty consistent. Which did remind me that I had also felt a little triceps pain another time I'd tried pullups but that seemed to go away after incorporating some slow heavy (for me) triceps kickbacks. pullups definitely are the worst for me so I might look into seeing if there are other stretches that might help offset some of the impact that tendon feels at that maximal contraction at the top of the pullup. I saw that discussed in another video by a PT where they also were not in love with the traditional forearm stretch of the straight arm fingers pulled back stretch.
sorry for another ping but *hopefully* had a personal breakthrough that could help you with someone else anecdotally at least (we all love anecdotal evidence). enough preamble. I was already aware on my dumbbell wrist curls I had a very heavy tendency towards deviating to the pinky which I did try to avoid but I started to realize it cropped up in other exercises and probably while climbing (hoping that is one of my issues for the ring fingers). I also would use a "looser" grip on pullups so I wasn't "working" my forearms as much (old way I was taught forever ago probably bad) and I think that combined with pinky deviation was really stretching the forearm tendon in pullups. Could be something to watch out for in patients and hopefully helps.@@HoopersBeta
Hey Hooper! I'm back again with another elbow issue. I just finished my basic fitness block in the rock climbers training manual. The whole time I did that 80% hangboard every day thing I asked you about. My fingers at end of 4 weeks felt great. When I started the arc training I could only do 3/4 lap on traverse at our gym. I kept getting better and better. I got up to 3 25 min rounds with 10 min rest in between. Well, I wanted to measure my progress so last saturday I went for it and got 3.5 laps until i fell off. Was STOKED. Sunday rested came back monday and realized both my inner elbows hurt. I am about to start my strength training block and am wondering if you think I should rest or if i did these exercises in your video I could rehab/prehab it for 3 days until I start my strength training block and be ok. Would hangboarding hurt my elbows more? Or is it basically the crazy arc i did? You've helped me with my scapula, my ulnar nerve, and getting healthy fingers. You deserve 1,000,000 followers man. I'm still telling everyone about you. You are the best at what you do!
So, I am wondering if the climbers elbow has as it’s root cause a tendency to pronate instead of supinate at the wrist when grasping and pulling. The old shotokan fist illustrates my general theory that the index finger is an “ugly duckling” for gripping and punching and requires a separate alignment with regards to the other three fingers. In fact, my old RKC teacher had me initially point my index finger when learning kettlebells to learn the proper grip form with the bottom three. Also, in Wing Chun the punch is spread across the bottom three knuckles which transfer force to the lower forearm bone which in turn determines “neutral” alignment with the elbow. It seems to me that some may try to focus on the top three, not the bottom three fingers, promoting a non neutral orientation. When the wrist twists and thus allows the forearm bones to leave parallel position in regards to the humerus, it must produce a torque somewhere. I imagine the arm bent at 90 and the thumb pointing vertical and the forearm bones without twist as neutral as being the “safe” orientation for wrist to elbow for any loading efforts.www.fightingarts.com/reading/article.php?id=215
I can't speak for all of the fighting positions, and it's a great idea, but I wouldn't say it's something I would place too much weight into. The forearm is great at wrist flexion in both positions. Yes, in climbing we spend more time pronated, but as long as we have good practice standards (not overtraining, over climbing, etc) our body can steadily adapt to the forces without issue. Sometimes we fall into the pattern of being too precise to define "whats wrong" with our bodies rather than look at the obvious, 500 pull ups may be too much when you just were doing 50 last week! (arbitrary example for laughter). I feel like I definitely learned something new about more of the fighting arts though, so thanks for commenting!
THANK YOU for sharing. Accidently watch the chanel when I had injury with my elbow when I added too much weight in pull up training. Go through the excercise for 3 weeks it actually help the pain going aways. Become a fan for strength training and start shoulder recovery after I campus then heard a sound from my shoulder. Great Chanel!!
Depends on what your training goals are. "Overspeed eccentrics" seems kind of like a "pop" term just to describe a simple plyometric motion. When you jump (plyometric activity), for example, you have three phases of motion: eccentric, amortization, and concentric. The amortization phase is changing from eccentric to concentric. In order to generate power, this should be short. So, essentially, "overspeed eccentrics". Just like someone training for max power would, you would quickly go through the eccentric to maximize your jump. If you're training stability, you slowly go through the eccentric. So that goes back to my first statement, it depends on what your training goals are. If you have any other specific questions or research to support it hit me up!
You'll need to pay attention to the positioning of your wrist, a single dumbbell allows for a lot more motion but if it's what you have, go for it! Just make sure it feels good and doesn't cause pain :)
This is super helpful right now, thank you! Could you all put something out for forearm pain? I have had forearm pain shooting off the ring finger. I know It was from overtraining. Thanks!
I'm so glad I found you and your channel! Came via Emil Abrahamsson. Subscribed immediately! Very helpful insights so far, and really nicely presented ;) Maybe you elaborate on Kinesio taping sometime?
@@HoopersBeta lol never expected your responds, thank you for the hard work to help climbers. I recently suffer from inside elbow&bicepe pain on both arms, these symptom started after the pain of mid finger joint gone then I start intense training. Will follow your sugestion and hoping these problem will gone. Thanks! In conclusion: I'm too weak! lol
Hey Jason, great video, learned quite a lot! Question on treatment: If the normal climbing leads to the limit of the work capacity of the not-so-strong muscle, and the treatment is basically strength training using negative repetitions - do I need to dial back climbing while strength-training that forearm-muscle? For approximately how long? I guess treatment-training should happen about 3 times a week?
This would make total sense. And as he said.. we should be cross training. As a grappler it's super important to be doing your strength/conditioning/rehab/prehab
I started training a lot more intelligently within the last few months after climbing pretty frequently over the last 5 years. My confidence and skill level dramatically increased, but I started feeling pain in my left flexor carpi in different spots. Mostly near or around the elbow and a bit in front of it when my palm is facing skyward. This video definitely helps explain exactly what happened and I really appreciate the helpful exercises to try and strengthen it back up!
Underrated channel. I've noticed a direct causal chain from wrist injury to climbers elbow. Total anecdote but in addition to these exercises I found putting my arms in a T position and pointing my fingers up was a fantastic stretch.
I started to feel pain in my left elbow. Probably because of some corona-hangboarding overtraining... And these exercises really made a huge difference! I do them with an elastic band twice a day and I am definitely going to continue doing them along with shoulder injury prevention exercises. Thanks a lot man! :-)
That's awesome! Glad to hear that they are helping. I hope you're also spacing out your hangboard training to get enough rest to help prevent a future overtraining issue :)
