My anti-vapor lock battle tactics here in Denver, CO (1 mile high and 100F in the summer): 1. An electric fuel pump and pressure regulator and return line. 2. A heavily insulated fuel line in the engine compartment. I use ceramic fiber insulation covered with tin foil tape...don't squish the insulation when taping it. This stuff transfers almost no heat. 3. A tee fitting (the bottom of the tee goes to the carb, the straight of the tee goes back to the gas tank). 1,2,3 take care of any hot fuel in the feed line because it's always flowing...no dead head. Any bubbly gas in the lines gets recycled back to the tank before I start a hot engine. Now for the bowls. 4. A non-metal carb spacer (I use a 1/2 inch four hole...my 1 inch open spacer caused a loss of signal and, therefore, a bog). 5. A heat shield mounted under the spacer that extends out under the bowls ( I made my own, but Holley and Edelbrock make them). The top of the heat shield is covered with more taped ceramic fiber insulation for any radiant heat. 6. A 16 inch hole cut into my hood with an electric SPAL fan sucking all the air out of the engine bay for 20 minutes after the engine is turned off or whenever in slow moving traffic. #6 is a joke. The rest isn't.
Interesting, I have a Weber 38/38 on my Jeep 258, every now and then I had issues with it starting, no rhyme or reason, sometimes sitting over night, others for 10 minutes in FL. Filled up with ethanol free, and no issue. I should also note, many Jeep guys slap on a Weber, and they're running lean without knowing it. Ethanol with 10% gas is around 14.1:1, not 14.7:1, causing even more lean than they were originally. People rarely change what they did 30+ years ago, while unaware how much the gas changed. And not to mention the detergents nowadays. Good video, subbed!!
I did the 1/2 spacer but that was manly for performance. What I’ve done and it has worked very well is, 1) Relocate the fuel line from the pump to the carb. A lot of factory installs run the fuel line along the block and the head. Too much heat there. 2) run a 180* thermostat. Most factory stats are 195*/198* that was many for emissions. 3) the other thing I’ve done was remove the cowl seal at the back of the hood. I have a hard time getting my engine up to 180* now. Where I live it gets to the upper 90’s and low 100* days in the summer. A side note, When I installed my hood I didn’t have the cowl seals yet. After I installed them I started having (some) problems with vapor lock. Noting too serious so I uninstalled them and that corrected the problem. Without the cowl seals that under the hood heat just flows out of the cowl area. Heat kills
Have the same prob with a 74 dodge d 200 pick up 360 engine similar edelbrock carb an manifold. I like ur video been learnin about why she runs so good until i stop when its hot out. It will start but but i can tell theres an issue with more difficulty starting while hot. If u add any thickness of spacer u never mentioned having to lengthen the mounting studs. Im surprised longer ones arent included in the spacer kit. Other words say i add a 1 inch spacer. I need to lengthen the studa an inch or usenbolts . Also the return line i have on the oldie is ive noticed is a vent tube . Theres no return line off carb an no regulator to return line with mechanical fuel pump. But all n all its a good truck i paid 650 bucks for it in 2010 an other than normal maintenence & a prt here a prt there. Every day commuter for 13 yrs. Clean body clean interior an rolls straight dwn the road like nobodys buisness. Read a comment lately on unrelated video was " thats what u get for buyin a dodge "Lol prob same guy thats payin 650 a month for 6 yrs an when its ready for the graveyard. My old dodge will still b runnin lol
I put double isolator plates composit. Install vapor removing in line fuel filter and electronic pump. Next thing is installing a small effective fan next to carburator with time based relay after shut off 30 mins. Lets see if I can put more gas to tank and still be able to start my weber. Im a warrior. (also I have fuel return line)
This guy is awsome. Thank you so much for the tutorial/ teaching videos. Its my first time dealing with a carbureted Ford 302 project car that I bought and its all going well thanks to this channel. (Subscribed)
One thing I don’t hear a lot of is blocking the heat cross over in the intake, which also seems like a good place to get rid of unwanted heat. Also they make fuel filters with a return line, no need to buy an expensive regulator.
We’ve talked quite a bit about cross over and eliminating it. Most aftermarket intakes don’t have that feature, so less to contend with. Not running a regulator is a critical mistake. Correct those with folks hundreds of times a year. It’s a must have with a carbureted system. Controlling the actual pressure to the carb and being able to select the best pressure for the application is extremely important. Having a bypass is just a benefit.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I still see a lot of aftermarket intakes with them, including the one in your video, lot of new heads have eliminated it, but there are alot of people unaware of the crossover that may be present. Yes a regulator would be required if you don’t size your fuel pump correctly, but there are other options especially if your on a budget, I have run 3-5psi electric fuel pumps successfully without having pressure issues. Not bashing video, just bringing out other ideas.
@@RustyPumpkinRanch fuel pump size is irrelevant. See that very frequently where someone buys an off the shelf pump at a local parts store or an aftermarket one that is rated for a specific range. Sometimes they are, sometimes not. Even if they deliver that promised PSI, it doesn’t give you any ability to change pressure during the tuning process, which we do frequently. I understand wanting to save money, but leaving a regulator out makes tuning difficult and sometimes impossible. It’s even been worse the last 20 years or so with ethanol fuels everywhere. Give yourself the ability to tune with the regulator. There are no negatives in having one.
Hi, I have a 1989 jeep wrangler YJ with 258, it came from the factory with a return port on the fuel filter, it is a restrictive port in the filter and uses a 1/4" return line. I have never had heat soak or vapor lock. Original Carter BBD long gone so that solved all the carb issues
@@MuscleCarSolutions A fuel pressure gauge will solve the question of regulator or no regulator. But a by-pass is a good thing, it also helps the electric fuel pump to work more effective.
All those things may stop the heat transfer a little but once you close the hood and that radiator fan blows they heat on the carb the carburetor gets hot anyway it may take a little longer but it's still going to get Just as hot
And yet they still are enough to help the problem! But if you’ve got other ideas on how to lower IATs, the engine will certainly be happy with the results!
Antifreeze = 50 water 50 glycol, the more water the higher the boiling point, so it’s like ur just putting water in the gas, which won’t mix.. and would barely raise the boiling point even if u added 50 water to the gas, but at that point would t even run so I dunno man doesn’t sound like a good idea
I'm currently running 2 isolator spacers. One between my intake and carb adapter plate and one between my adapter plate and my carburetor. My fuel line is rubber and my fuel filter is orificed. But unfortunately it doesn't work well in my case. The only thing that's helped me is running none ethanol fuel. My issue is Im running a slant 6 so the exhaust manifold bolts directly to the intake floor. So after a good run and at least a 10 min shutdown, it will be hard to start. Heat risers place a big part in the issue along with the ethanol fuel. But sometimes it is just what it is.
Had some luck with ceramic powder coating the exhaust to help contain the heat. Chrysler did no one any favors with that design but in their defense we didn’t have crappy ethanol fuels back then either.
I may have to do something in relation to this. I have an Aisan with no return line, thats bolted onto the intake with a 1cm or so thick spacer in between, but its also aluminum. For the most part it starts up, but when u turn it off on a hot engine and want to start it up again, its almost impossible. That or it's something to do with the automatic choke. Either way will look into such spacers for mine.
I noticed my RPMs will fade away most down to zero after that truck has been run a little bit. If I open my hood all the way, the RPMs will return to 800 and it seems like it can run forever. Could this be Heats soaked? My mechanic doesn't seem to think so. He tuned up the carburetor did the timing but it's like he's not listening. I keep telling him I noticed the problem when the engine gets hot. I can only start it if I lay my foot down on the gas and crank it over.
dreamingcode very well could be. Is the carb bolted directly to the manifold? Running a fuel with ethanol in it? Even if it’s just pump gas E10? It’s funny how quickly ethanol boils. Causes all sorts of drivability issues. We never meant to work in carbureted applications. Just requires some attention to get it to work reliability.
@@MuscleCarSolutions thanks for the reply, its a 1969 F100 with an EddleBrock carb right on top of the engine(sorry my car knowledge us limited). I put in Unleaded gas 89 which has ethanol %10. I haven't found a station yet here in Philadelphia that has ethanol-free gas
dreamingcode yup. That heat transfer through the intake to the carb is a nightmare. After you drive it for awhile and shut it off, is it a little difficult to start? Black smoke come out yet tail pipes when it fires up? Takes longer to start? All symptoms of fuel boiling over and going into the intake.
dreamingcode you for sure were spot on then with your guess about heat soak. Now you know some of the fixes too! Best of luck and let me know if you have any questions!!
I have a 71 Caddy with the 472 and original Q-Jet. All stock aside from a Pertronix ignition module and coil, and replaced the original nylon timing gears with a Cloyes steel gear set. Haven't noticed a hot start issue, but If I sit and idle an excessive amount of time (like at a drive thru, or sitting in traffic), when I go to accelerate back to normal speed, the car stumbles and almost stalls. I can feather the gas to keep moving, and it clears up shortly after and all is well. The car drives fine otherwise. Is this a heat soak issue? Will a spacer help?
What else would you suggest if this doesn't work? I've cut 2 big holes in my hood and installed functional hood louvers on my 86 camaro. Installed gasket similar to what you have, wrapped my fuel line with heat shield, 160 thermostat and still have issues 😬
No its not overheating. Im looking to get a bigger fan but somehow have the fan run for a few minutes after the car has been turned off. Im going to switch to a wood spacer ro see if that works. @MuscleCarSolutions
My issue is, I can turn my truck off let it sit a minute then hit the key and it sparks right off. But as soon as I pop the fuel cap and sit to fuel up. It hard starts and I have to hold it WOT to fire up.
I had the same problem , tired the rubber/ foam gasket that Edelbrock makes . It didn't help. I have now switched to a phenolic spacer (8725) and seems so far better than the foam style Great Video!!!
It’s always kind of a hit of miss what will work and what won’t. Since I’ve lived in the mid south, I skip right to as thick a phenolic spacer as will fit under the hood. Always does the trick! Plus lowering the amount of fuel in the carb... but all that is in another video. lol Glad you enjoyed the video!!!
@Muscle Car Solutions Great videos just gained a subscriber !! Could you help me eliminate the Edelbrock Bogg . Carb is an 1806 355 SBC with automatic 2004R 2700 stall timing 34deg all in at ~2800 I've upgraded the squirters ,and adjusted the accelerator pump to the biggest shot. When I give it the "thunder" off a stop , the car will fall flat. Then it will pick up after I ease off the pedal. What am I doing wrong ?
Muscle Car Solutions it’s running a static compression of 9.10 :1, camshaft is www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=86&sb=2 In an 87 Gbody, with 8.5 rear with 3.73 gears
The cam link didn’t work. What’s the part number? Would like to see what the entire picture looks like here. You mentioned you changed the squirter. Which size did you put in? You also mentioned going to the largest shot of fuel on the accelerator pump. How does the car react when it’s on the smallest shot?
They all claim that. Or “factory set” at some number. The reality is they rarely are. So yes, I’ll always recommend running a regulator and a gauge so you can control what the carburetor is seeing. I have some component suggestions in my video on how to set up a muscle car fuel system.
@@MuscleCarSolutions - ah ok thanks. My ‘49 Jeep CJ3 exhibits the symptoms people are describing here. I can shut down in hot weather but anything longer than it takes to fill the tank and it’s extremely hard to start. Unless I leave it with the hood flipped open, so figured heat related. Cranking while pressing the pedal smoothly to the floor works most times. It’s a tiny little 134cu flathead with a one barrel Carter carb parked off the side of the motor but still gets lotsa heat exposure.
no vaper lock is when you are driving in the heat like traffic heat soak is when hood is closed but it is because of vaper lock i am going through this right now on my 65 el camino i put a return line back to the gas tank & a return fuel filter & now i am also trying 3 thick gasket on the (carb) & i am going to add a electric fan so it will stay on after engine is off then turn off when cool.
Unless you have some extreme situation, running the fuel back to the tank with a return style regulator and isolating the carburetor from the heat source is enough.
Hi, I have a 1984 C10 305 V8 Original, Cast Iron Intake, Electric choke, small metal line comes off the exhaust below the exhaust manifold for helping warm up engine( when cold closes when hot opens) works off vacuum on exhaust on passenger side. Has EGR Valve on cast Iron intake, but I have Removed smog control. Will it be safe or important to close off the heat cross over on this cast iron intake before reinstalling? Thanks for info
Currently having issues with heat soak and want to mount one of these black rubber spacers but my question is how to do so with my set up. Its a Chevy 350 with a Edelbrock performer spreadbore intake with an adapter plate converting it to square bore Edelbrock avs 2. Do i run the rubber spacer before the adapter plate on the intake side or the carburetor side? Is there a difference?
They are plastic and it will go on the side they match up to. In this case, it would go on the square flange side of the adapter. So from top down; carb, black plastic spacer, adapter, intake. Make sure you put gaskets in each layer. Will be good to go!
I don’t think it would hurt, but in the long run it’s not going to make much of a difference. It’s still going to be ethanol no matter what you add to it. There are some products out there that will help with some of the negative side effects.
I have a 65 Impala with a 327 and Rochester carb. I have a hot start problem, starts good cold but shut off for a few minutes and wont start until it cools dowm I plan to install acarb heat spacer on and a fuel filter that vents back to the tank. My question is ...... my fuel tank has only one opening for the tank vent . Could I tee the return lineinto that vent line withoutcausing any problems with the venting?
No. Install a return line. In my tech tips playlist you’ll find a video on “How to Add a Return Line to a Factory Tank”. That’s your solution. Though I’d rather run the return line off the regulator as it’s the correct bypass. Out the fuel filter could cause starvation issues.
I have the same problem. I was told to put 7/16 plugs in the exhaust crossover under the carb or block of the exhaust crossover with new gasket between the intake and the heads which is what I'm going to do. My buddy's car has this and problem solved.
Anybody that can answer or give out some pointers would be great & appreciated. A bit of info on the rig i'm working with, It's a Carter AVS with a dead head style regulator setup, pressure set to 4.1 PSI as i assume the operating underhood temp will raise the fuel pressure a tad. Few months ago got a similar isolator spacer from Edelbrock, it's about 0.350 in thickness and still getting hard hot restarts. i'll tackle insulating the fuel lines at a later date but question: I found a phenolic spacer that's about 1/4 thick, a tad less than the Edelbrock's 0.350. Do you think that small difference in spacing & the change in material will be enough to keep the fuel from boiling? or otherwise the less thickness in the phenolic spacer will upset the heat/fuel boiling control? Problem is i do not see anyone manufacturing 0.350 thick phenolic spacers. Anybody that can shed some light on this matter & the thickness choice of spacer would be much appreciated, Thanks.
I just did a review on the new AFR I’m using. It’s a little pricey but the wireless function has made it worth it. You don’t need to permanently mount one if you don’t want. Vacuum gauge is a good addition also, but all tuning can be done through the AFR.
I prefer the wood laminate spacer though I have nothing to quantify that with. I’m sure the black phenolic spacers are just as good. I’ve just had really good luck with the wood laminate in some very extreme conditions.
@@MuscleCarSolutions I got the carburetor adjusted that didn’t work got the timing checked over again an set still didn’t work. I change the spark plugs wires too still didn’t work. An I did the sea foam an that didn’t work. But if the motor is warmed up that’s when the diesel starts an then hard to crank like it’s flooded. But cold start an ran for about ten minutes an cut it off then it’s no diesel once I got to the store an back cut off diesel. An yes my carburetor is basically sitting on that thin gasket.
@@f150bft run hundreds of these over the years and more dyno time than I can recall and the open spacer on a dual plane intake on an engine making less than 800 hp has literally ZERO change to torque or HP. Nothing you would be able to tell by driving. Not sure what you mean by "canceling the duel plane", but as far as performance and power, there is zero change. Here, you can read this article if you wont take my word for it. And maybe down the road next time I hit the engine dyno with a DUAL plane engine, I'll show you there is literally no change you would ever notice. Here's your article; www.motortrend.com/how-to/pit-stop-carburetor-spacers-affect-performance/
Wasn’t a bluff. There’s just very little to lose/gain on power from an open spacer on lower poorer street engines. Yup, the four hole stuff can be a benefit when you’re tweaking for max power. For the majority, it’s not anything to be concerned with. You gain more in the heat barrier than anything else.
