Can confirm this guy is all over the problem. The slam on the brakes method will work, as well as using a scan tool to perform autobleed abs function. Slamming on the brakes on a wet road or gravel road also cycles the abs solenoids which effectively resets them. Thanks for the tip! Try this first for sure!
@@Jillups. it doesn’t have to be on a gravel road, I did mine on just a normal asphalt road where there’s no traffic. Get up alittle speed, say like 25,30 or even 45 miles per hour and slam on brakes, just go at a speed that you feel comfortable at, doesn’t have to be anything specific. Good luck.
This is a late note, but the loss of brakes with pedal travel to floor has been known by Ford and no recall was done. The problems seems to be in the ABS module; it has happened to my 2013 Edge three times; the pedal travels to the floor and requires firm pressing on the pedal to get braking action.. then, the brakes continue to work normally... until the next time you lose braking action, and if you are dealing with a sudden stop when it happens, it could make you waste seconds and increase braking distance so much that you could crash. Ford extended the Costumer Satisfaction deal until November 2025 regardless of millage. But they will only change the brake booster and people are saying that their brakes continued failing in the same way because it appears that the ABS module is the main culprit, but Ford is not replacing it. I read that this problem is also affecting the Journey and even some Chevy models. Call your dealer.
@@GeezerGold thank you for your input and response, fortunately this has only happened once with me, been working perfect ever since. The only braking problem after that I had was the brakes were sticking and wanting to lock up, I took it to the dealer three times and the idiots couldn’t figure it out, one time I even drove it up there with the brakes smoking and told them it’s probably the brake booster, they didn’t want to deal with it so I took it to another small business shop and he changed the brake booster and never had another issue. Sorry your abs module kept messing up though but I appreciate you reaching out and letting me know about the extended warranty, and glad you got yours fixed as well. Thanks for watching.
Damn, yeah they’re not cheap, I hope it works for you, good luck and you’re welcome. Also just an fyi, a bad brake master cylinder can cause a low pedal also. Good luck bud, thanks for watching.
Guys all u gotta do have someone sit the vehicle lift the front up make sure its safe to go under it and hit on the abs pump from underneath with a stick or what ever just little hits while the person is in the car pumping the brakes make sure the vehicle is on and running. Thank me later.
That’s good input, and I’d never heard of that or even thought of that but it does make sense how that would work, because all you need to do it break free where it got stuck and it works. I’ll have to remember this for future reference in case I ever come across this again. Although the braking hard was kind of a fun experience lol but seriously appreciate you chiming in and sharing your word of advice. Thanks for watching.
I’m currently working on my grandmothers 2013 Ford edge brakes are great and an only time I’ve ever ask up is when it’s going downhill it’s like the brakes go all the way to the floor like there’s no pressure. My plan is to change the master cylinder and go from there if you guys have any tips or any other ideas, I’d greatly appreciate it.
I’ve heard of people having problems with it working on gravel roads, plus I don’t have any gravel roads near me so I’m kinda limited but I’m glad it worked for you. I did do it in reverse a couple times as well I just forgot to put it in the video. Thanks for commenting and thanks for watching bud.
@@FloridaMan7337 it’s possible you may have a bad brake booster, or possibly still have air trapped in system. The way those systems are make it a pain to bleed all the air out. I ended up replacing the master cylinder later on and it took a while to get all the air out. I had to bleed it at the master cylinder and at each wheel and finally got it right. Good luck, hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Really? That’s weird I haven’t heard of doing that before but I’m glad it worked for you though. I’ll have to remember to try that as well if it ever happens again. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching.
I’m going to try this tomorrow because I killed myself for hours with every technique including all data. If this works I’ll kiss you right on the mouth and I’m not a gay man
Lol 😂 a nice hearty handshake will do lol. Hope it works for you bud, just remember it may take a few tries, it doesn’t usually work on the first couple try’s, good luck. Thanks for watching.
I did this once and it fixed the problem, it lasted about a week, then the brake pedal started going down again, tried the trick again, didn’t work this time, tried 2-3 times, ideas?
@@peaje as far as I know it’ll work on them all, at least all within the same few year models. Mine is a 2011 so it should work for your 2013 as well. Good luck, hope it fix’s it. Thanks for watching.
Those master cylinders on those cars can be a real pain, I had to bench bleed it and bleed it after I got it installed on the car as well as go around and bleed all the wheels. If that doesn’t work then I’d keep trying to activate the abs module, sometimes they can be stuck pretty good.
Well if it reset and everything works good then you should be good to go. In my case though the pedal came back but then the brakes started holding so ended up replacing the master cylinder and brake booster. Good luck. Thanks for watching.
Well in this case I didn’t have to bleed the brakes, just activate the anti lock brake system. How ever you just bleed like normal, pump the brakes and while someone holds the brake pedal, open the bleeder valve and let the fluid run, or if you do it alone then hook a line to the fitting, and insert into a bottle with fluid and open the bleeder and pump the brakes. If there is no fluid or air coming out, then you probably have a clogged bleeder valve so just change it and it should flow. Hope this helps, good luck. Thanks for watching.
Well that would be the abs control module which is pretty expensive and hard to get sometimes from what I’ve been told. It shouldn’t happen again, what happens is the pistons in the control module gets stuck from dirt in old dirty brake fluid, so you could have your brake system flushed which would never hurt but you probably wouldn’t experience it again more than likely. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
@@Trucker695 no problem, I know what you mean, dealerships are outrageous and then it’s hard to get good quality service now days too. You do it yourself you save money and get to learn new things.
@@jamilclark3 you can try it, I had to actually do it on mine a few times and it finally just popped back up all the way. If that doesn’t work then it is possible you could have a bad brake booster.
It may take several tries before it finally works, make sure you are pressing the brake pedal as hard as you can to activate the abs brake system. If you keep trying and it doesn’t work then you may have another issue instead of the abs brake system module. It could be you have a bad master cylinder. Good luck and hope it finally works for you. Thanks for watching.
It may take a few times, make sure you press the pedal firmly to lock up all four wheels, if that don’t fix it then you may actually have a bad brake master cylinder. Good luck. Thanks for watching.
It’s not always a guaranteed fix, but how many times did you try, it may take several tries before it actually works. I had to do it like 5 or 6 times. I’m not sure but I know it was several because I didn’t think it would work at first either. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
