How to Fix Sportster Shifting Problems : Weekend Wrenching 

Thanks for that. Imma bouta bust into mine. 10k & I’ve already got shifting issues. 😕

Well thank you for that little tidbit... I bought my bike virtually brand new, 13 years old with 236 original miles on it. After 3 riding years and 20k+ miles on it, I'm at the place that lead me to this video. After reading your remark a little light came on and made me remember/realize; I've had shifting issues since day one. Thank you for that.

Shop manual says no 32 bit (0.116) That’s smaller than 5/32

its knot even close to as dirty as my old ironhead! 😬

😂👍🏼

Not "dirty as" is still dirty! tsk tsk

It's the adjustment in third gear. Take the 2 bolts off the shift pawl and insert the specific drill bit and re tighten the shift pawl which realigns it.

Same here, this is why I looked into the comments to find out what he actually did ha!

Same here, was confused about the fix was... ???? I have a 1990 SPORTY 1200 with shifting problem. Stuck in gear, can't get to shift unless (with engine off) you roll bike back and forth. Will be taking apart this weekend. Hope this all I have to do is realigned this pawl. Seems to easy... Ride Free

Yes, I've had the exact same problem on my 2001 Sportster, the problem was the 1st and 3rd gears on the COUNTERSHAFT had worn out dogs. It doesn't look like severe damage but it's obviously enough to cause that jumping out problem. Harley has made an upgraded version of both gears with virtually no ramps machined, this supposedly helps maintain engagement and avoid the problem. I've only just fitted mine but haven't had a chance to test it yet. The pawl adjustment is definitely very important and you should check that as well, using new nyloc nuts while you're at it. Let me know if you need any info or pics, happy to share what I can.

@@mysticapprentice do you have a part # for those gears?

@@6sillygtivr Of course, 35763-89A is the countershaft first gear, and 35771-94 is countershaft third gear. Bear in mind that you will also need a set of retaining snap rings, part n. 11067, and ideally you should also replace the thrust spacers (6003) and the needle bearings on both shafts (8876A, four for the whole transmission). Let me know if you need anything else, good luck!

yikes, I used an impact on mine just as shown here and other videos... the magnets look fine, but could they be damaged in a way that can't be seen?

You fix the leak?

Smacked it on the broken clutch lever part way through. -Patrick

I broke the pressure plate when installing an Energy One clutch in my Sporty. Ordered a new one and the second time was more careful. ~ Xena @ the XL Forum. 👍🏻

1-3/8 in on the clutch basket (left handed thread (righty loosey, lefty tighty) and 1-1/8 on the comp sprocket

What you see is the snap ring that retains the clutch adjuster rod (and its bearing), that one does come out with just a pair of snap ring pliers. At this point you can remove the clutch as an assembly, if you need to get at the transmission, starter motor bolts, or shifter pawl. However, if you need to OPEN the clutch to replace the discs, then you will need a clutch compressor tool to relieve pressure on the diaphragm spring so you can then remove another snap ring (different from the one mentioned before) and pull out all the clutch internals.

Yes, its a bushing that is in the primary cover where the shift shaft comes through. It can get worn and allow the shifter to rattle.

Nope, it all has to come off together because the primary triplex chain is "endless", meaning there isn't a master link you can take out.

If that’s a lot of work to you, then maybe you shouldn’t ride at all or just keep taking your bike to the shops. They all eventually break and need work. This is a simple job… your just lazy

New to Harley man got a 1202 buell x1 lightning/ would mine have a trap door to do trans work or so I need to split cases

My Father-in-law had a Sportster he sold to his Sister-in-law who has been letting her son Ride it. Saw it last weekend for the first time in a couple of years. Clutch barely engages, jug gaskets are seeping and it's stuck in 3rd🤦.

@@SGTJDerek sounds like he needs a hand sorting it out.

@@ludo9234 not unless he hands over the title.

Blew the door on my '79 Sportster. Had to get every single piece replaced. That was only One Thousand dollars back in '80, including labor at the Harley dealership.

That sounds like a clutch issue. Like the clutch isn't completely disengaging.

@@jpcycles, Thanks I appreciate it.

I came here to ask the same question

If you find that it's jumping in and out of first gear, the issue is most likely that the dogs on 1st and 3rd on the COUNTERSHAFT are becoming worn out. No fix other than replacing the gears with the upgraded parts available from Harley. If it's just going into neutral and staying there, it's likely that the shift pawl needs adjustment as described here with the #32 drill bit. Use new nyloc nuts.

also if the shift lever is bot returning to center position after shifting, it has the be the return spring correct?

I don't think you can get to it without taking off the clutch basket. -Patrick

@@fernandovenegas5374 Possibly, you will need to do the adjustment either way when you replace the return spring.

And the retuernspring is on the primary side of my 1988 883 ? Just had mine stop returning, the shifter stays put wherever i push or pull it, cleaned snd lubed all the linkage and no difference. Am i in trouble here?

also, best vid on YT on this subject, thank you @j&pcycles

That was my question too. Had to rewatch it. The drill bit only stays in while the two bolts are tightened to give the paw precisely the space of the drill bit size he mentioned. After that, the bit comes out.

That should be fine.

@@jpcycles Thanks for the help! Going to do this in the Spring

No need

@@rebel_ltz I thought all battery's should be when working on inner primary. Thought wrong I reckon

No need but you don’t want sometone hitting the switch while hand in there 😱