GE Repair guy here. We change out these things all the time. Usually because water leaks onto the shaft bearing. I have not come across too many Mode Shifters that short like this but this is good info to know. Replacing one of these Mode Shifters will cost you around $300 parts and labor. Nice video. :)
Excellent! Great explanation and simple solution. Really appreciate you taking the time to create this video for us DYI folks who cringe when faced with the option of having to buy overpriced components or, God forbid, replace increasingly expensive appliances. Thank you!
Thank you for this video, you just saved me the cost of a mode shifter assembly. I Did this repair last night, washer is back in working order. Thanks again
Hope you don't mind if I ask you a question. I'm doing this repair myself as you did, and I wanted to know if you went with rivets or screws to reassemble. What size drill bit did you use to drill out old rivets? I would greatly appreciate your response and help. Thank you!
I used small zip ties after drilling out the rivets. The holes left behind were too large for the self tapping screws I had on hand- not an ideal fix but it is holding up well
Hey thanks so much for the tutorial! Great explanation and simple solution. Really appreciate you taking the time to create, saved my whasher and expensive and non replacement coil only to find...they sale the hole set with shaft for $150 USD......thanks so mucho, greathings from Baja Mexico.
mark totton that would be very unlikely. E=IxR and P=IxE good math formulas to know. if you do the math the coil only draws a few Watts. I'd be more concerned about the LED on the Diagnostics board catching on fire before this coil does.
Perfectly described. I have the exact same issue. Only thing that could make the video better is showing how to remove the tub to get to coil and whether or not you really need to remove the motor. Otherwise great.
hey it's also worth mentioning that once I connect the electricity I hear a cling, esp. when the device has been left off for few minutes to completely drain out. Luckily I discovered it is from the Mode Shifter Assembly. This sound is irrelative of washing program activity that is, it happens when the washer is Idel immediately after being plugged in
Great video. Just got one of these.. Needed to know what was up.. Now can tell customer.. not sure I can leave out fuse.. If it were mine I could. I don't like tearing down old Ge.. washers.. pain.. compared to Old Whirlpool.
Hi, Great vid man, I do Appliance work for a living and be leave me with today's junk , not like the ninties real machines. you never stop learning....
with all due respect even the 90's machines were absolute junk. you'll have to go back to 70's or 60's before we get machines that lasted over 20 years
My washer is showing the error code for an open shifter coil (4 flashes). The symptom is that the drum will not go to high-speed spin, although it agitates and otherwise performs properly. I am going to try your fix tonight, I hope that it works!
I *thought* that it was agitating properly before, maybe not. I did the coil fuse bypass, and it works great. The locking collar is retracted and extended on cue. But the main problem still exists. The drum will not attain a high-speed spin. After one minute at a moderate speed, instead of "kicking into a high gear", the washer slows the drum and continues to spin at a greatly reduced speed. Bummer.
Grat Video. Thanks. I think that is the problem with my machine, I can see the 4 red flash on the board. she fills with water and empties but does not wash or spin. but I wanted to ask you. you should see the motor running when you have this problem ?? Or is it that the engine does not run when it has the problem of the mode shift?? because I don't see the engine running by itself
what exactly do I see when I take off the rivets, and, how/where is the fuse? just would like to know before I take off the shifter, thanks, a diagram would be cool, thanks
I was sure my my fuse went as the mode shift wasn’t engaging and the basket was spinning not the agitator while in wash . It somehow did reset itself however
With the thermal fuse thrown out or not used, are you not afraid that in the future the coil wire or something else important in the mode shifter assembly will get burnt and damaged due to power surge?
I have a question about the ge Hydro washer. When the washer is agitating and the basket is moving only to the left while in agitation. Is this the issue as well. From what I saw in a video on You tube, When the washer is agitating the basket should be moving left to right. On mine its moving only counter clockwise. And it like a half turn per agitation.
I have a Hydro wave. I believe it changes the agitation cycle 1 direction, then both directions. The top of the agitator only goes 1 direction, the bottom goes both.
If I am not mistaken, the green light is supposed to flash off and on. Is it not? My thinking is the pattern gives the code. Steady one second intervals indicates no codes. Blink on one second, off two seconds, one flash indicates a fault. On one second, off two, three flashes, etc. Correct me if I am wrong. What was your symptoms? Can a bad shifter cause one to wad clothes?
I think, as he said, mine is flashing green 4 times - which is the error code for "mode shifter coil" - I'll have to say "I really Never liked this GE Profile washer that I bought! It Sucks!
Thanks for such a helpfull video...i removed the fuse but the coil is giving me 73 ohms. The washer is still not working. What should i do? Is there a place to get the coil only instead of whole assembly?
@@imrankhalid7610 did you ever end up fixing yours? I’m in a similar state, LED flashing normal but ohms reading low from the shifter coil around 66ohms. Hate to do all that work and find the shifter isn’t the problem
Just disassembled mode shifter to remove thermal fuse. Fuse ohmed out good, but removed it anyway. Figured I went this far. Coil ohms out at 68.9. Any other ideas? I was initially getting the four flashing lights. GE paperwork says replace motor. Please say it isn't so.
It could be purely mechanical such that the gears are not greased good enough to be engaged and disengaged. Therefore the coils is not strong enough to move them.
So, basically I suck at fixing things. I've taken a lot of things apart, but getting them back together has been a problem. Your video is super informative, and I get the overall idea. I'm sure this is probably a stupid question, but those rivets you drilled out, do they need to be replaced? I've never riveted a damn thing, ever, but I'm not opposed to trying. Sorry for being a noob.
I have a couple also I think have the same problem. I was told it is usually the motor even though there is no fault code according the blinking light on the motor.
Does anyone know the heat spec on the fuse? If Im going to go through the trouble, I might as well spend the $3 and replace the fuse instead of bypassing it. Thanks
Mine flashes 10 times after I turned it on. Washer will fill in with water and will drain but no agitation and spin. Lid switch, fuse and the control knob panel are okay. What a mess!!
Thank you Andrew for sharing with us this genius solution. My washer doesn’t spin or agitate at all. After closing in on I was left to either of two faulty parts . The Mode Shifter Assembly and the Motor. I tested out the two leads coming from the Shifter at 200 Ohmmeter (Rx1) and I came up with 70 ohms. Does that mean it’s working properly? I also noticed that the LED Flash on Motor controller board isn’t working , I’m afraid the board might be the source of the problem!! The drive motor looks in a pretty good condition and for more diagnostics I tested out the two internal leads coming out from the dynamo for continuity and the Multimeter peeps and the resistance reading is 1 - 0.9ohm. The Schematics provided by the company for control plate shows a fuse that I can’t seem to locate? I would appreciate if you could point me out in the right direction cuz it would be inconvenient to replace the whole motor especially that I have to find away to ship overseas which is way too expensive for me.
Jason Stockholm I too have the same issue, I replaced the inverter motor still nothing. Washer fills and drains water, however, doesn't spin or agitate. What was your fix. Appreciate any info. Thanks in advance.
Make sure that you blow out the boards on the motor with some compressed air. I was looking for the little green LED and couldn't see it until I blew it out. A little late response-wise but perhaps it might benefit someone else.
Hi Andrew my name is Javier thanks in advance for your how to video, but i'm not that knowledgeable in electronics is it possible that we could have a step by step guide thanks appreciated have a great day
Javier Palma if you're not that knowledgeable in electronics I would highly suggest finding someone that is to do the repair for you. the use of soldering equipment is required for this repair. if my washing machine breaks again I will surely make a more in-depth step by step for you.
Yes, he did that in the video. With the thermal fuse in series, he was reading open circuit and that's because the thermal fuse was open. When he bypassed the thermal fuse and measured the coil directly, he got 89.7 ohms.
@@JaleelJohanson62- isn’t the very thin copper wire in the coil insulated therefore trying to test continuity is a little difficult? I cut a little 2 inch piece and couldn’t seem to get continuity between that small piece. Then I started wondering is this wire insulated?
@@condor5635 The coil wire is indeed insulated with enamel coating, but the ends of the coil wires are not coated. This is where the electrical connection to the coil is made, and also where you'd want to measure the coil resistance.
@@JaleelJohanson62 - thanks for that if I cut off an inch or two on the ends, how do I remove the enamel such that I can get a good connection? Maybe some steel wool or sandpaper will remove the enamel?
OKAY you remove the safety link.... it got hot and blew the fuse.... why did it get HOT ??? so now when it gets HOT ''again'', safety fuse is gone , a fire will happen or wall fuse will pop= then what??? what will you remove then ???
mine has 82 v and with an 90ohm coil you will pull less than 1amp. The wire would probably burn open again before a fire. If you really want to fuse it, put in an inline fuse and put a 2 amp fuse inline with either lead. If you blow fuses, you have some windings shorting..then force to change out the coil..This non resetting fuse is probably a bad idea. Work in electronics daily. She these things go out for no real reason. GREAT Video..I never knew there was one in there. Going to fix mine tomorrow...
Not free though.... You invested a good amount of time to take the machine apart down to this level in order to get at the shifter coil. I'll bet it took an afternoon to do that and then re-assemble the washer. Worth it for the homeowner with an open afternoon, but way too costly to pay someone to do it for you.
