How to Fix the TPA3116 Turn-On Thump / Anti-Pop Circuit 

I do have a video with a 2 component mod that eliminates 95% of the thumps :) Wwwaaay simpler than something arduino based

Agreed :) , Simple timer IC and/or relay based solutions are also possible that will work 100%. I'm just saying that the chip is designed for use with modern digital circuits, Every post I can find on the subject ignores this and blames TI for bad design.

Well .. the YDA chips from Yamaha, and even the lower power TPA chips don't have this prerequisite ... Might be unavoidable, but, until I see proof of said unavoidability - I'm staying mad at TI

you're more than welcome!

Hihi🤣😂

@@Asraful_x same problem here. im looking at a delay relay but i only seem to find DC / AC type. not DC to DC.

@@rezo786 There are only DC or AC relays. Not DC/AC or DC to DC.

@@-Tris- you are mistaken. I manage to find a DC/ AC relay. Let me know if you need further details.

@@rezo786 maybe I got something wrong here 🤔 I only know about AC or DC relays, both doesn't make sense. You can switch AC relays with DC if you need to, but not the other way. Why does your circuit sometimes have AC and sometimes DC? How do you switch the relay? Transistor, triac, both...? What about back emf, you can't put a diode across the coil? I'm confused 😅

well, TI also should've thought of some way of biasing their chip which avoids shoving VCC into the speakers at startup 😳

@@Darieee This is definitely true. It's a weird design. At least the mute pin is there, there's got to be a way of triggering it without draining GVCC...

UPDATE - Long story short, I got the mod working on my board. I found your other video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s0vIM8kZx9M.html&t & noticed you used a 22uF electrolytic capacitor instead so gave this a go. Pulled these caps off an old Xbox motherboard & they seem to be working ok. No pop & audio is working fine.

yeah ... it's quite disastrous there is however a more elegant and superior method to using a ground loop isolator: you can simply run a differential pair for each channel, and ditch the ground all together; you have to unsolder 4 (or maybe 2 if you're lucky) SMD capacitors ... which might be quite small but the results are amazing, I'm filming a video right now where I do this on 2 amps ... and will probably be doing it going forward ... the sound is butter smooth, no hiss, no bt interference, no nothing! Also, some amps have a stupid op-amp for some stupid reason, which muddies the sound and greatly boosts the noise floor - the direct-feed differential in hack should also have you covered on that front

are you maybe wiring the sub coils in parallel? that'd end you up with 2ohms .. which is very steep for these amps

@@Darieee yea i parallel the coil cause i think this amps has parallel btl so can go down to 2ohm (i have put heatsink too) at first time i tried there is no problem (working as well) but a few day after that i got this problem, i have tried go to 4ohm but these amps still shutdown, what should i do?

That sounds quite busted ... maybe share the link of the particular amp so people can avoid it

Darieee yeah well i have another question since i have a similar amp like yours its just 2x50W 100W sub it has inductors like yours and they heat up by a lot even when idle and since i am making a portable boombox it is a lot of waste of energy any help?

it would stay off for longer at power-up

@@Darieee ah that's fine

@@Darieee also My Schottky diode has a V drop of 0.85v Will it still work or it will damage the chip

mmm, try finding a better one ... it /should/ be /oookhay/ but ... it would be pushing it

@@Darieee can you name the exact diode which you used

Not home for a few days but .. it MUST be a Schottky diode !!!

could you link to that video? still .. anything deemed superior costing an entire microcontroller with code running on it is a complicated argument to win .. any and everything with a micro is better, except when that thing crashes or starts to lose its mind in 20 years

@@Darieee i'm not sure there's a video, there is a thread on the diyaudio forum though, some hi end audiophile freaks power their gmarsh wieners with proper linear PSUs and then list their $2000 amps on ebay the next day, it's extremely impressive with expensive high sensitivity accoustics if properly implemented (good pcb layout and components + clean power basically)

you don't have to use a bipolar but you can of course do it - it's a bit of a waste though :)

@@Darieee Thanks for your answer ! I have only that on my bench.. maybe i'll be able to found a capa in a trash pcb

Hey Darieee, i have a different model and the connections from the TPA3116 is quite different can i send you a picture ?

pinout of the 3116 is universal though 😎

I swear it is different :p

30 to 35v should be adequate

This is a very peculiar proposition

​@@Darieee Just say "Wire $500 through paypal and I'll work for you" xD

that should reduce the thump even further, huh ?

sure, just be sure to wire it the right way around

I used polar capacitor and it did not work

I AM FROM AFRICA AND I DON'T BECAUSE I PUT A RELAY WITH A TIME DELAY ON THE SPEAKER OUTPUTS. VERY EASY TO DO!

I AM FROM AFRICA AND I DON'T BECAUSE I PUT A RELAY WITH A TIME DELAY ON THE SPEAKER OUTPUTS. VERY EASY TO DO!

@@andrewallen9993 what type relay send link ?

@@kuchbhi9758 Dpst ( double pole single throw) use two with a resistor/capacitor network to delay switch on for each two output channels

@@kuchbhi9758 www.amazon.com/Speaker-Protection-Circuit-Supply-UnAssembled/dp/B00QVM4TX0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1549088281&sr=8-5&keywords=Speaker+turn+on+delay for example change the relay to one with more poles, you just will be unable to mount it on the PCB. Good luck with your soldering :)