As a 23 year old woman and first time bathroom toilet repairer, I’m very happy I found this and want to stress to everyone that you don’t forget the washers between the toilet bowl and screws… big mistake on my part. Lots of leaking water but figured it out and paying it forward to the other air heads that may forget
This is a good instructional video to a point. However, there is a HUGE step missing that conforms to the national plumbing code, and could be disastrous if not done properly. The overflow tube MUST be cut so that its height is at least one inch below the flush handle hole. Also, the water level in the full tank must stop at least 1/2 inch below the top of the overflow tube. If this step is not done correctly, and the float/valve does not turn off the water as it should, the water could leak out of the flush handle hole and flood the house. In that case you had better have some great homeowner's insurance. Another useful tip: NEVER put the bowl fill line down into the overflow tube, as this can create a siphoning effect causing water to continuously flow into the bowl and trigger ghost flushing. I am Just trying to be helpful, and prevent people from experiencing a disaster here, with some practical plumbing code advice.🙂
@@kiritokirigaya1594 A hacksaw or a large PVC pipe cutter will cut the overflow pipe with no problem at all. Also, some toilet repair part manufacturers (like Fluidmaster) make their overflow tube height-adjustable by twisting the threaded tube up or down. No cutting required in that case. I Hope that helps. 👍
Good video, man. The only thing missing is how to adjust the water level. On this particular model, there is an adjustment screw ( you can see it at the 8 oclock position on your fully assembled portion, looking down). 8 turns to the right raises the water level.
He failed to explain that you will need to thread the nuts onto the two bolts that attach the tank to the base AFTER you replace the tank back on the toilet base not before! This is a crucial step in the process and should not be overlooked!
This is a FANTASTIC tutorial. It’s clear and concise and easy to understand for people like me who’ve never done any plumbing. (And I’m a girl, to boot ;) My plumber (who’s supposedly a friend - the son of a neighbor I’ve known for 22 years) quoted me $150.00 to do this fix of my toilet. Yes, he’s a plumber but currently isn’t working as one and I thought it seemed rather expensive to charge a “friend” for something that seemed rather simple and not too time consuming. I will attempt this myself (and ask my son to lift the toilet off if I find it too heavy for my herniated neck problem) Anyhow, thank you a MILLION times for creating and sharing this video. I’m sure it’s been helpful to tons of people much like myself!
This a well produced video with excellent timing and viewing angles. Very very clear with good pacing and no wasted viewing time. A lot of effort was spent by Kurt in the editing process, making the video smoothly transition from step to step. I agree with some commenters that his video is superior to that done by some manufacturers with large budgets. Bravo!
Thank you for uploading this video. Mine isn’t leaking. But I have to remove the lid and wiggle the flow master for it to refill the water tank. Seems like every time. Greatly appreciate your attention to detail to the components! Greetings from Bay Area California
I was told with any of the flange fittings on toilet repairs, you don't want to overtighten, just enough to be tight enough for a solid seal because overtightening can end up breaking the porcelain or crack it.
Excellent tutorial. I tried replacing just the fill valve whilst between 10:33 sitting backwards on the toilet backwards and near zero space to look under. Had a leak at screw. Hoping it’s not cracked . Back to the drawing board. Taking the tank clear off is much easier. I had an extra plastic bolt under the fill valve l didn’t know was there after l got one off. I was yanking on it wondering how fix it guys on you tube always make it look so easy. HERE GOES…
Couldn't count how many of these I've installed over the years, but this was the first one I remember not working. I am always extremely careful not to cross thread fittings, however that caution was to no avail. It seemed to be going on fine, but then I noticed it looked a bit sideways (hard to see well behind the tank). Took it off and regardless of effort, it would not thread straight. Of course it would not seal and was therefore worthless. Threw it in the trash and bought a cheap one that went on perfectly. My reason for posting this is to let you know to be extra careful. The plastic is terribly cheap and soft and will strip very easily. As long as it lines up straight it should be no problem and go together quickly.
Thank you for the tutorial. My issue was SFS (slow flush syndrome). I finally got the chance (and courage) to update the old toilet tank assembly in our guest bathroom with the Fluidmaster Performax All-in-One kit. I had very minor issues, and ended up with an insane flush...break out the champagne. However, I did have to take the tank apart again after noticing that in your video, you had washers and seals on both sides of the tank (on the two bolts) prior to fastening the tank back to the bowl. Now our guests can flush without crossing their fingers and hoping their poop makes it all down on one try and without reaching for the plunger.
Sounds like a definite improvement; congratulations. And, on behalf of your guests, thank you. I know I hate to leave my shit where other people can see it.
+Kurt Engineer Handyman ...You forgot to mention that the Flush lever Handle Nut, is threaded backwards (turn counter-clockwise to tighten). That was a nice kit, it looks like everything needed, was included. Thanks for the video!
You have given many people excellent help here. You are quite intelligent, capable & a very good person. You had me when I saw the Baby Wipes @ 1:34. A must have near my toilet.
Thank you for such an informative step by step video. I greatly appreciate the fact that you started from the beginning! Best video I’ve seen on this repair hands down!!!
I used the same Fluid Master All-In-One Toilet Repair Kit he used in the video. You're right @KirkC "left-out the part about measuring" the flush valve upright pipe first, but he didn't need to include "possible trimming." The Fluid Master All-In-One Toilet Repair Kit he's using has a feature which allows you to manually adjust the height, so you don't have to trim it.
The broken tube was the big problem. The rule in plumbing it to replace everything you touch with new. I would have replaced water line with new braided stainless steel flexible hose. Often the cut off valve at wall will not work right and will not fully stop water. I often replace these with the new 1/4 turn type valve.
He didnt forget....there are 2 nuts that go on before you place the tank on...then once the tank is on, there is another set of bolts to attach the tank to the base....
Great video. This will save me a lot of time. I notice when you put the red rubber ring on the bottom of the tank there are also two black strips next to it. I don't see those in the kit. Can you tell me what that is?
Seems to have worked! There were a few details about measuring the height of various things - not going to strain my brain to remember their names, because I hope not to have to do this often enough to matter. Thanks for the confidence, appreciate it. The good of mankind has been served, by your video, Kurt. Sol.
I saw anoth4r kit came with a tube of silicone sealant, so i went ahead and bought a tube to go with the kit.... is it ok to use silicone sealant wherever there are gaskets?
Thanks man! It saved me hours. I’m not scared of repairing the toilet anymore 😂 only thing did not work for me was the rubber in the bottom was too small. It was leaking when I flushed. So, ended up using old rubber.
Thanks For the Play By Play Instructions... I'm an idiot when it comes to shit like this... and to think i was gonna pay someone to come to my house and do the job.