can't you just lift up the grey thing at the base of the valve? you dont need to undo the nut at the bottom of the toilet, i saw someone just lift up that grey thing at the bottom of the valve inside the toilet, then you can lift up the valve, then when you put the new one in you puish the grey thing down to lock it in place
Thanks so much, sir, for walking me through this. It was a piece of cake, even for me, a twice per year bumbler through these sorts of tasks. Something I like to do at the conclusion of successfully working on plumbing (besides celebrating with a beer) is to put a piece of newspaper or cardboard (or something else that clearly reveals a drip in the middle of the night) under the recently fixed thing for a day or two--just in case. Thanks again!
Just did my first fluid masters repair inside the tank. Great video I love the way it showed from underneath the tank you taking it out.Big thumbs up thank you it took me about 20 minutes
I'm a 70 yr old female who just installed my first flush valve! I definitely could have used some of your hand strength but it's done! No leaks! Flushes properly! My daddy always told me I could fix whatever I put my mind to. He's been gone 8 years so I can't call him for tips. Thank you soooo much for your easy to follow instructions!
Thanks for this helpful video. That simple piece of advice to measure the height of your new stem against the old one BEFORE installing it is one of those brilliant little gems I will now have forever. Thanks!
Very clear and helpful video. I just installed this same model of Fluidmaster fill valve myself. I encountered a great deal more difficulty than shown here, because I was dealing with a worn out fill valve that had been in place nearly 20 years. The nut holding it in place had become corroded and “frozen” onto the metal shank of the old valve, and it was extremely difficult to remove, using a pair of channel lock pliers and with the aid of WD 40. I finally got it off so I could install the new valve but then I had to deal with the water supply connector (also 20 years old) not stopping the water from leaking/spraying out. Ultimately, I replaced that as well, buying a Fluidmaster brand so I could be certain it would connect with the new fill valve. Hopefully, viewers of this video will not experience the difficulties I did. But be forewarned if you’re in the same circumstances I was in, replacing a very old product and installation.
thank you. that bit about the difference in height should be 3 inches and the next one about measuring the outgoing unit and making the new one the same...those were the golden bits thst make you stand out. thank you again.
@@TheFixitShed I feel like wonder woman right now. I fixed 3!! leaking toilets. one handle is "floppy." any ideas? it doesn't stop in the horizontal positions, but flops to point up at the ceiling. it looks like the mechanism is made of "pot metal." and will break if I mess with it much.
Your comment made me smile. I am really glad the videos are helping people. That's what makes it worthwhile. It is hard to tell without seeing it. I would suspect the handle is just broken. The handle should have a tab inside that stops it from flopping all the way down. That stop may be broken. Or it the nut that holds the handle on the tank is loose, it may be spinning around in the hole.
Why bother changing the whole thing? Just unclip and pull out the main body, leaving the 'old' entry pipe in place, then clip the new one over the top of the old pipe. Easy!
Just showed my son how to change the valve body after watching the video (and reading this comment). Both were super helpful. If the line ever leaks, I have my TIM (tools, info, and material)
If you are placing an old Fluidmaster fill valve with a new one, you don't need to empty the tank or disconnect the feed line from under the tank! Look at the valves at 3:30. Each has a plastic slip collar below the float where the upper shaft sits on the lower. Just reach down and pull up on the plastic collar to pull it closer to the float to unlock the upper portion, then yank the whole valve up (no turning). The only thing that will stay behind is the black stand pipe. Remove the stand pipe from the new fill valve and slide the new valve over the old standpipe (which is just a hollow plastic tube and never goes bad). Set the height to where the old one was and slide the collar down to lock the new valve onto the old stand pipe. EDIT: this presupposes of course that you are installing a new Fluidmaster in place of an old failed one.
I just used the pull up the collar method n it took less than 10 minutes to take the old leaky one out n put in the new one. Fluid master old n new. Thanks
Thank you for showing us which way you are turning the wrench to get the supply line off. This is the first video I've seen where you can see what's actually happening underneath the tank. ❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
your old mech is exactly like mine! down to the red hat. Had no idea I would find a video describing EXACTLY how to fix my particular john. I was going to hire a plumber. but now I gott'er done myself!
Thank you Sir!! You got straight to the point. Other than to go back to HD to replace my flex hose because the gaskets were rotted out it took all of 10 minutes and no leaks so far. 🙏
Totally awesome I put in the fluid master just minutes ago. Female 63 took me minutes to do so with your assistance going to subscribe and binge watch your videos after I do the up stair bathroom do one do the other don’t worry about it til next time thanks
I just got the 400A Brass Shank Pro Fill Valve from Home Depot today. My tank started leaking after I loosened the bidet attachment to clean it. After reattaching the bidet attachment, the fill valve moved a bit and that's when the water started leaking. Your video will help me fix it. Thank you very much, instant sub!
Easy-peasy...unless your toilet valve doesn't shut off all the way, like mine. Next you have to shut-off the main water valve outside your home. Unlike the easy-peasy toilet tank access, I only had a few inches access between my toilet and the vanity. I had to lie on my back to remove the locknut and the water hose. Unfortunately everything was frozen in place. I got a neighbor to hold the bad valve in my toilet tank while I attempted to unscrew the locknut and water line underneath. The bad unit in the tank shattered leaving a little plastic piece in the tank. Even when my friend used channel locks to hold the piece left in the tank, I was unable to unscrew the locknut and connecting hose under the tank. I had to use a sawzall, reciprocating saw to cut of the old piece. Since there was no room to SEE the water line, I did it by feel and accidentally cross threaded the plastic piece. When I turned on the outside water supply, water sprayed everywhere. I'm sure In ideal situations, with easy toilet access and a good working toilet shut-off valve, it's easy as can be.😉
I am definitely not mechanically inclined and watch the how-to videos each time I tackle a task. Your video is great because of the filming of underneath the tank work and the measuring of the fill valve (always difficult for me in the past) before installation. Thanks and Merry Christmas (12-14-23).
I can’t believe I just watch 36 videos of people installation and they all miss a major step for beginners none of them mentioned it… The red rubber is a big step for beginners and they’ll will get confuse by watching these videos because no one mention it SMH 🤦… All these videos get a C- for that
I am guessing that by "red rubber" you are referring to the toilet tank flapper or flush valve. This video showed how to change the fill valve which does not have anything to do with the flush valve. If you need to do that, search for "flush valve" or toilet tank flapper". There are tons of great video out there that cover that. My flush valve does not have a red rubber flapper. It is a Kohler system and has a rellow rubber ring that can be replaced. I have a video covering that here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ApEZeCrc9wE.html but it is probably of no help to you.
I am seeing water coming out constantly from underneath that red Flomaster cap. Dribbling out. And then in the toilet bowl there also is water dribbling into it. My monthly water bill is up a very good bit and I'm sure that's the problem. Can I do something to the present Flomaster attachment or do I need to replace it? I really very much need advice please!
If the flapper is allowing the water to leak into the bowl, it could be the flapper needs to be cleaned or replaced. If the valve is running constantly and causing the water level to rise and go into the overflow tube, then the valve should be replaced. I don't know anything that you could do to the current one. The easiest fix is to replace the fill valve.
After installing a new toilet, I discovered that the water level in the tank is right to the top of the overflow tube and I'm out of adjustment at the knob/ screw on the fill valve. I think the solution is to shorten or lengthen the fill tube, which adjustment is it and can I do this without removing the fill valve from the tank? Thanks.
If you have a Fluidmaster fill valve, like the one in the video, the main shaft twists to lengthen or shortend it. It sounds like you need to shorten it. You should be able to do this without removing the fill valve.
Yes. The price is low enough to make it worth while to replace the fill valve instead of taking it apart to fix it. A new one will last many years. More than the stated warranty in my case.
The only thing that I can come up with is that the valve didn't work. It is broken or didn't turn far enough to close the valve. See if there are any other vavles closer to the waster source that you can close to turn off water going to the toilet.
I had trouble with my refill valve but when It was replaced the inlet line was plugged with?? Called my well man and he said it was rust from inside the water tank. He drained the tank and replaced some schrader valves. Now i have water to the refill valve but not enough to come out the tube. I'm thinking about disconnecting the inlet hose and flush from the main water supply before I put it all back together. I thought this was done, but not so! Well man suggest I replace tank with one glass lined and install a sediment filter. Any opinion
Not really. I am just a home DIY'er. Trying to help people do simple tasks around the home to save money. Sounds like you might have bigger issues than what I would be comfortable advising on, base on your comment.
Suggestion: If you have a wet/dry shop vac handy, you can vacuum all the water out of the bottom of the tank much easier and faster than using a sponge. As an added bonus, it will pickup any sand or other sediment at the same time.
You don't need to drain the tank or remove the supply line if the toilet already has a Fluidmaster in it. Just push the adjuster ring down, and pull the top part off, leaving the bottom part in place. Do the same thing with the new Fluidmaster. Now slip the top part of the new one over the bottom part of the old one, when it is properly adjusted, slide the adjuster ring back up to hold it in place.
Is it ok if the water is more than 3 inches from the top of the over flow pipe? The water reaches the previous water height in the tank. I turned the water level. adjustment screw all the way clockwise to increase the water but it did not get any higher. I replaced the fluid master because I was hearing a whistling sound and I’m wondering if this contributed to my water bill increasing.
@@TheFixitShed thank you . I did notice a weak flush even though it's the same height as the previous one. I'm also hearing a quick flushing sound. I will adjust the height
@@AliG-rb6em If by a "quick flushing sound", you mean "tank refilling sound", you probably have a leak from the tank to the bowl (causing the water level to drop slowly and the tank to refil). You might be able to just clean the flapper to make sure it is getting a good seal or you can replace it. This leak will cause you to use lots of extra water until it is fixed.
Thank you for making this video. I bought the same toilet fill valve a few months ago. Today I finally have the energy to get it done. This video really helps with the diagram showing the 3" height. I measured the height differently since I messed up the height of the old fill valve when I tried to fix the filling problem. I measured the height of overflow pipe first, then added 3" to it, and adjusted the length of the fill valve. It would have taken me about 10 minutes to get it done if I had not take pictures. Thanks again.
That's awesome! I am glad you found the video useful. I often take pictures (or video) when I am doing something so that I remember how a piece came apart, or something like that.
No need to take it out completely. Remove it from the black pipe using the sliding nut. Remove the new one from its black shaft and put it on the old one. Measure height and done.
Beautiful video! I love watching you work! You have a nice calm in control manner, meaning plumbing does not have to involve stress by the tons and f bombs
Thank you for your great video, easy to follow and understand your great information. I actually saw the inside of the toilet similar to another family members toilet and it helped me get a fix. Hopefully this works and will minimize a trip from the plumber for now. Thanks again 🌞
I believe this is what I'm going to have to do. Ran into an odd problem where the toilet won't refill itself unless I turn the water on to the bath/shower right next to it for a few seconds. Then I can heard the toilet start to fill up like normal. So weird.😅
That is odd. I wonder if the water pressure from the supply line is preventing the valve from opening. Then, when you run the bath water, it reduces the water pressure enough that the valve can open.
Thank you! My toilet was overflowing due to this same issue, instead of a small drips, it was spraying! Got the part and gonna tackle this on my day off!
They are pretty much universal. The 400A is the base model. They have a 400H model which is "high performance" whatever that means in a toilet fill valve. Unless you have something very old or unique, it should fit.
Or you could just slide the sleeve off and remove the filler assembly and put the new one on. No need to remove the full assembly. But this is a nice vid
My guess is you have Kohler systems, like I did. The big round thing, I am going to call a flapper, though that is probably incorrect. 2 things I can think of that might cause that: did you get water inside the flapper? That would keep it from floating, or is the chain that lifts the flapper too long. That would prevent it from raising up high enough to stay open.
The Fluidmaster 400A has a major flaw. It takes 4 mins to refill your tank where the old style takes less than a minute. The issue is theres a white rubber stopper in the valve that you must remove for the tank to fill faster. Why did the company did this?? Stupidity?? yes. Some of us needs to double flush as first time around doesn't clean everything. It appear they added this stopper in newer models.
@@TheFixitShed Yes I have an older model and it doesn't have it. They somehow decided to add the stopper to hope people conserve water without telling consumers.
@@TheFixitShed Thank you again 🙏 you save me $350.00 from the plumber who wants to charge me as of emergency visits(at 2:00 am) I woke up with the water flooded all over my bathroom floor. Good thing he told me to turn of the water first, If I have other bathroom to use. He can comeback during daytime for $175.00 to save my money. At the mean times I searched on RU-vid from more than 10 RU-vidr before I found you. I spent $19.00 for the valve and $22.00 for the pliers. I’m very proud of myself now under your great instructions. Thank you sir 🙏🙏
Nice video. I like that it was not rushed which was good for me since this was the first time I was replacing a broken Fluidmaster 400A flow valve. To adjust the new 400A's height, I put the the old one next to the new one like you did. Then I kept adjusting the height until they look to be about the same height. Didn't use tape measure.
@@TheFixitShed also I was wondering how long should it take for my tank to refill? I’m clocking it at 1 minute and 37 seconds-seems to long- thanks for getting back to me.
Great video, my only problem is getting the supply tube back on without spraying water when it’s turned back on. Everything is tightly secure yet it sprays water. Frustrating.
Sounds like something is not seated properly. Check the inside of the supply line and make sure the rubber gasket is in there properly. If it looks ok, try wrapping the threads of the fill valve with teflon plumber's tape. Be sure to wrap the tape in a clockwise direction so that when you screw on the supply line it doesn't try to peel the tape off.
How old is your supply line? They’re only meant to last about 10 years. Mine was nearly 20, and I had the same problem as you when I attached it to the new fill valve. I changed it out for a new one (only $7.23 at Home Depot for a Fluidmaster brand) and the problem went away. Well worth the money I spent for the replacement.
