IF This video helped you out and saved you some money. if you wish to donate to help support the channel. So i can keep creating videos. feel free to donate to my streamlab link: :) :) streamlabs.com/dawg316/tip
Thanks . A+ Video .I have a 171 2.8l V6 ‘85 Ford Ranger 4x4 light Truck . Replaced the primary wires with a recommended 60 Amp Alternator . And all new Parts and this Instruction is a visual hands on one . I can breathe easier . It’s an old natural aspirated. Engine . I saw a video at You Tube using a #6 AWG BK ground from the 12V Battery Negative Terminal with pigtail ground wire attached to the Alternator Bracket instead of the weak ground at Passenger Side front of truck ground which caused battery drain for many .Plus according to Gary’s Garagemahal expertise it there was a mistake in the Wiring Diagram. This is a solid ground video young man . Let’s ride!
Thanks for a great video! You helped me help a customer with his Bronco not charging. He's purchased several alternators and voltage regulators while pursuing this problem. You provided the information he needed to dig deeper into this problem.
Thank you for the electrical diagram bro, I was looking for this and your video was the best I found that actually made sense and didn’t throw you off with other crap. 👍
Thanks for the lesson; it helped a bunch! Also thank you for making video that jumps right into the work without a ton of flashy, trashy fluff to make it run over 10 minutes. Now, about that bucket. Son, in my day we didn't have buckets! We just sat on the floor, and if it was rusted through, too bad!
Hi, thanks for your video, helped me diagnose a faulty alternator on my 69 F100, in my case, a wire had come off the rear brush, although the alternator wasn't very old. I managed to solder the wire back, and now charging well, and new brushes on order. Will. Devon England
Great vid. Have 82 350 7.5l, had a bad over charging. Replaced reg several times. Alternator once. Turned out to be ground issue. Reg was grounded by screw to vehicle body and was intermittent and over charged. Ran ground to batt NEG. Issue solved. Correct fix is to install ground straps from body to frame, frame to block. One wire was easy fix and still works great. Peace
This is awesome - especially the tidbit at the end - I’m getting 16v when revving and I found it due to car stereo turning off. I’m going to try a new regulator…
The BATT terminal is connected to the Stator through the output diodes, so it gives you DC, which of course is the main output that charges your battery. The Stator terminal is directly connected to the stator, so it gives you unregulated AC output. It's typically used for things that don't care about AC vs DC, like heating coils. Sometimes it's used for things like tachometers, because the AC frequency varies in proportion to engine speed. Probably not too accurate though due to belt slippage, and unknown exact pulley diameters, etc.
Like your full detail really helps. Wondering about check the solenoid on side fender well. How to check? I thought the solenoid was part of the starter. . I SO MUCH need help. My car vandalize and need my truck for transportation. I'm 6q years old and love my hotrod. . . 73 Ford f250 highboy3 and 79 TransAm.
Can you finish drawing the circuit for the indicator light (green wire). Is voltage coming out of the regulator providing the power to the light. Heard it is also called “ hot in run” but can not find a circuit depicted showing how the light is powered. Thanks!
It can be confusing if you have an ammeter on the dash then the charge wire goes right around the car and to the +ve relay side. I got a new alternator harness and worth the money you get a big earth which screws into the block with the battery -ve wire. I had a bad regulator and bought a new one and the car still isnt charging. You can jump the A and the F wires and i had tons of electric! My question is there a way of just checking the regulator by itself with a multimeter? I want to be sure before I send it back. I now have collected about six of these things over the years one of them must work! And that''s a great car by the way I hope you finished it?
Thanks on the info for the old style alternator. I moved my battery to the trunk in a 75 Mustang with 351W and screwed up the wiring. I am headed to the garage to go rewire my car. Thanks again!
@@Wrenchlife604 Hey there, thanks again. The voltage regulator was shot. Using your tip I connected 12v to the field connection on the alternator and it started charging. Changed the regulator, now on to other items to make the car more reliable.
Thanks. I couldn't remember if it was power or ground I had to jump to the alternator. Been working on too many Mopars lately and they have a grounded field terminal.
4:17, the stator terminals on the alternator and the voltage regulator aren't used on vehicles with an ammeter in the instrument panel. The stator terminals are used on vehicles with an indicator lamp in the instrument panel.
Not only was your video well well done but I also like the fact that you got a footprint gas pedal just like Joe deertay LOL that is a nice old Ford 2 by the way is that a Galaxy?
My 69 Mustang is reading 12.34 constantly. it has a new reman alternator and a new reproduction VR. My ALT light stays on at idle but goes away at RPM's while driving (over 1,800 RPM's). No flickering or dimming lamps, even with load (a/c, radio, etc.) Suggestions?
So your diagram pretty mucg saved me a load of hassle now i know what a 1g alternator and regulator is and that it goes to my starter solenoid and starter is flicking when yhe voltage is high on the volt meter
thnx man. which voltage regulator did you use? I had installed vr 749 earlier this yr. no charge condition returned last week so I installed 100 amp alternator. still no charge. your diagnosis was same as mine so wonder If I need a different vr? vr 730?
Make shure your conections are clean at the voltage regulator. I had a brand new one not work out of the box. And had to warrenty it as deffective. I also dont rember what part number mine was. You can use rock auto and see what part numbers are available for your vehicle
I changed the old mechanical regulator to new electronic one, and now my ALT-light is not working when turning ignition ON, any idea why? Should i rewire something ?
Im having yhe opposite problem on foxbody. Over Charging rev it goes to 16v then back to 14 then driving creeps to 15 then 16 starter flicks on and off while running. Got the car two days ago amd just found tbe reg dangling by a cabke tie
i use the negative post of the battery for the most accurate ground. you can use a engine ground. just verify its a clean ground before hand. battery negative is most accurate tho. wouldnt be a bad idea to confirm engine block is correctly grounded. that could cause a problem aswell
Thank you. Just to check if I understood you correctly: 1) Field to ground while Motor is running should get 12V when alternator is dead (but 0V when REGULATOR is dead). If the alternator works fine, what Voltage would the multimeter read in this case? 2) Field to positive battery post while motor is running should get high Volts (around 18V) when alternator works fine, if not, the alternator doesn't charge
Any idea why my alternator would be surging power my lights are flashing when they're on and I get 14.25 up as high as fifteen back down and back up any ideas
The voltage regulator tells the alternator when to start charging and when to stop over charging. Either you have some high load accessorys that are draining it too soon. Our maybe your battery dosnt like holding a charge? Its hard to say withought seeing it in person
no i have not. first check your belt tension to make shure its good. then use the steps in the video to figure out if your alternator or voltage regulator is bad.
Condensor is use to "clean up" the voltage. Sometimes ac current still pulses. It was used back in the day to prevent the stereo/radio on picking up noises aswell.
I had a good charging system except for lights that would surge when accelerating so I changed the voltage regulator for a new motorcraft one and now it’s charging well and the issue is gone but I have the battery light constantly on. Wtf?
@@Wrenchlife604 no problem, that's good how you diagnose the problem instead of switching the muffler bearings out, that's the only way to go👍🏻 i just bought a camper ,89 Ford itasca, with a 460 in it, and it's not charging the battery. now I can diagnose it properly.
Just add another ground. And run a bigger positive. Big 3 is only needed if your running a big big sound sytem. The factort alternator is realy light duty tho. I would upgrade to a bigger one if you choose to go that route
Could be voltage drop on the wire could also be the field wire is pulsing 12 volts and its showing 3 volts on your multi meter. A graphing volt meter might be more accurate. Is your system charging or no?
i got 12.5 at ignition wen on i .f field is connected . yellow is getting 12 am stuck my boi let me know whats going on what do you think. the auto part store said my alternator pass
Make shure ur alternators hooked up correctly. Its real easy to out the wrong wire on the wrong terminal. How long have you owned the vehicle. And has it always been not charging or was it working then stopped?
my trucks battery light came on and got it tested and they said my batteries are bad and gave me free warranty replacements but the charge was 100% even tho the battery was bad? and the light is still on
a dying alternator/charging system wont charge the battery when the vehicles running. also it will kill the battery pretty quick. most likely your alternator is bad.
Dunno. But if they battery light is on while the vehicle is running. Than the charging system is at fault. Easy to find out in 10 seconds using a volt meter
@@kyleanderson5616 dude, the title says test and fix, not test and replace. That easy, anyone can do it, and not need a video, it really is that simple. I like to fix things rather than throw garbage in the landfills. We live in a throw away society, and you are part if the problem. Grow up.
