Straight out of Jay Reakirt's playbook, this is an unusual design for a trammel. Most of the "fire saws" had a toothed adjusted. Where or why Jay chose this particular style, is still a mystery. But hey, it works!
Love it! Thanks for teaching in such a non-judgmental way. My best friend and I are putting together a forge. We just cleaned up a 66lb Trenton anvil and he built a lawn deck/ rotor forge. I think I'll have to try one of these. Again, Thank you!
Really appreciating the close up shots. Is that warm orange glow normal in your work area? What causes this relaxing glow? Watching this during the evening is very comforting and easy on the eyes.
Awesome video, just found your channel. Would it be practical to put some twists into it to make it look a little more snazzy? Thanks again for the great video!
Almost identical to the way I've done mine for more than 20 years. I patterned mine after an 1850's piece at a living history site's museum up here (in Canada).
Trent, I'm going to be critical, here. WHY such BIG holes?? I have used many trammel hooks over the years in historical re-enacting as well as having made quite a few, too! I find that the bigger holes allow one to LOSE the adjustable piece in the fire and such. One does NOT need such large holes and actually, just over the size of the rod you are using to move the pot up or down keeps the wiggle down and LOOKS much nicer, too! The design is much the same as all trammels I've ever seen from the old times. As you say, nowadays there are the saw edged tramme ls but I don't recall ever seeing one like that that was from the 17th or 18th Centuries! Yours are every bit as functional but, as I said they don't LOOK as nicely done as those with much smaller holes that are just slightly over the size of the rod used. THANKS, for all the great vids and all that you do to further the trade and the skill! Best wishes!!!
Trent, as always, an excellent video. Two questions...One, May I post a link on Modern Blacksmithing to your videos? ..Would you ever consider gathering Jay's projects and yours and writing a project book?
Thanks Trent...when it comes time for pre-order ...please let me know so I can order it and post it on Modern Blacksmithing, Blacksmithing For Beginners, International Blacksmithing, an Bladesmithing For Beginner....that covers at this point around 75000 members and climbing rapidly.
Trent, I know it's not the subject of the video buy I can't remember if you covered it in a previous video but, how do you cut down the ringing on your anvil? I've got a strip of rubber beneath mine so as not to disturb the neighborhood with my work but I just noticed yours sounds even quieter than mine.
If you have rubber under your anvil, you are making it much worse :) I put a cloth or rubber under my anvil when I want her to sing at a show. Wrap a chain around your anvil or stick a speaker magnet to it, that will take the ring out
how much phsyical shape do you have to be in to start learning how to do black smithing projects if you want to start out? What would be the metrics of how much you need to be able to lift and so forth that would be a good measure up.
Most of that would have to depend on what kind of things you are attempting to make! It takes a heavier hammer and more force, usually, to move thicker/larger metal than it does to move and shape smaller.thinner metal. I used to be able to handle a 6 pound hammer, well. Now, I am disabled and can't use anything much over a 2 and a half pound hammer. So, I just take a LOT longer and a lot more heats if I want to do bigger projects, or I stick with smaller projects! I hope that gives SOME idea of what you were wanting. Good Smithing!