Metric vs. Imperial - I visited a Canadian worksite earlier this year, The apprentice was raised in the metric system. He called out his measurements to the older (imperial) carpenters as "27 inches and 3 of the little things." I asked, "How do you know if he means 1/8th or 1/16th?" They told me that 1/16th was considered "really little things."🙂
I bet a lot of Americans say little things as well. In Canada we don’t use metric for measuring unless it’s from a government blue print that is all in metric. 4 inch is roughly 100mm, really all you need to know. The math is simple.
I have been a CPA in public practice for over twenty years. One of the partners when I was hired…. Slow down so you can speed up The 5 minutes you spend thinking through things you will get back so many times Deliberate love it Great videos!
There's a 1913 ballon frame in my family. I'm very impressed by the simplicity and rigidity of it. There aren't many things that last over a hundred years of Vermont winters and are as square and plumb as the day it was built. Balloon frame; a good idea.
Your engineer is lucky to have you! You actually look and follow the plans. Structural engineer here, and I’m trying to work with contractors to get to this level, but vice versa, they are also working with me. We get there the majority of time but there is always a few misses where they didn’t get something. Nothing against contractors, just takes years to establish a good team and looks like you have a great relationship with your engineer to follow exactly what they call out.
Thanks! Its definitely a give and take. The project I'm working on right now has a different engineer. At first he appreciated me asking for clarification, now he's stopped responding to my emails..........the details are very difficult to understand.
I often say be deliberate when talking about taking the time to do things right, but haven't often heard others use the phrase. Great minds, I guess. Slightly under 10 minutes, not bad. Is the roof framing video out yet? Never mind, I'll just check for myself. Keep bangin'! 🔨👍
Very cool! This is also how we do loft headers in post frame buildings. In a sense, post frame with a loft is also technically balloon framing. Some of our engineered 6x6 have been as long as 28’. The full width lofts make the taller buildings very stout. Much more than a building with a hinge point.
Oh wow, I love the overhead view! Definitely a trick getting those boards in there! Would you say it's easier or harder than installing standard floor joists in a normal stick built home? This was how we built our free standing loft
Keanu Reaves and Jeff Daniels would be proud haha. Great stuff again mate, I like how you show your mistakes and how it's not a big deal to fix them. ''It's not a mistake if you fix it"' eh. Corrections are a part of the construction process. Might have missed it, but where your floor framing crosses perpendicular to the wall framing below, did you have to fix them there with any special hardware? Or just nail them?
I caught that on layout I was wondering i thought you started on a different area I always hated seeing hangers definitely three coats of mud 12 inch mud joint if a crappy job then at least a 16 inch bed along that ceiling not the worst thing in the world anyways not a rant and thank you for posting always look forward to your videos
Hi, could you please re-read what you wrote and then adjust so it reads what you are saying? Cuz i read it twice and i have got no clue on what you are meaning, 12 inch on center joists or a 12 inch hawk or trowel or knife or what in the world? And how do you do a bed on the ceiling? Get some punktuation into that sentence while you are at it aswell, please. I understand that as a craftsman writing is not the most important in the world to you, and you are right. But if you want to shout out on the internet and hope that people understand what you are writing, rather then saying, you better put some effort in it. Not wanting to make you feel less, just hoping to improve communcation in the world. (I am a dutchie btw, and i build flightcases for my living)
Just wondering why when you build the balloon walls you don't leave a pocket for the ledger so that it's supported at either end as well as the mechanical fixings.
Good question, simple answer is it isn't worth the work. Since the engineer can calculate the loads and give us the screw spacing, there really isn't any need.
Im curous why the home was baloon framed? Im guessing you end up with a stronger home? Those tall walls look like a pain in the butt. I always learn something new watching your show Tim. You're a modern day Larry Hahn.
Larry Haun. I, too, am wondering about the benefits of balloon framing. You can get a little more continuous insulation in the cavities, I guess, but only a little. Does it give you more flexibility in the layout because all the load is taken up at the perimeter?
Is the LVL ledger for efficiency?No crown, usually pretty straight, square etc… Or is it cuz you’re using I joists?(engineered wood expansion contraction rate)
Yes, never use sawn lumber with I Joists. Different shrink and movement rates. Benefits to the LVL are its straight and stiff + the same depth as the I Joist.
Worried about “hanging the floor on a ledger “ Hehehe can’t help myself. No going on decks anymore Can’t cross any bridges No more parking garages I’m sure there is lots of other examples where structural loads are being carried by hangers of one form or another. It never hurts to have a intelligent discussion on important topics though .
you even said in the video before setting the hangers it was 16 then you went on to put them at 2 foot, I was like didn't he just say they are at 16? lol
I try really hard to move tools to where I'll need them next. Dummy me leaves multiple tapes at all the places I'll want one and then I still end up grabbing them and accumulating them in one location.
He mentioned in the crawlspace episode that they would be putting the rest of the barrier in after all the trades have gone through (plumbing, electrical, etc.), to keep it from getting dirty and potentially damaged.
Why they haven't designed a nail-gun shaped like DYSON vacuum cleaner to mitigate that bend over and it might be a faster way to nail those sheathing ???? I'm just looking at it from a different angel. Let me know why they haven't done it tho :) Minute mark 37:39
I joists are good in compression idk how theyd perform vertically lvl’s will be stronger or lsls or just transitional studs, plus the extra cost wouldnt make sense
@@AwesomeFramers I'm only a energy engineer so I can not comment on the structural issues. Although I-joist are used for stud applications in Sweden to build multi-story apartments and single family residents. For multifamily it is usually prefab platform framing. The smallest dimension I have seen for an I joist in wall application is 200mm, which is almost an American 2x8. The most common dimension is 300mm. Our climate is similar to the American zone 6/7. You seem to live in zone 4 PSNW so the additional insulation might not give good return on investment. In my area 300mm of cellulose provides a very good return on investment. With 300 mm I-joists no external foam is needed which saves labor. I-joist walls might be very unpractical for your application, but they are proven to raise any builders coolness factor and street cred by 25%
@@arvidjohansson3120 i feel you have to build that wall on it's side because how floppy those I-joists look, they need a decent fixing pattern to the wall sheets to keep them straight up and down after raising that wall. Maybe even fix blocking between the i-joist prior to sheeting while building horizontally.
I do not like to foot centers. OK for a deck but not for floor in a house. I always go 16 on center. It’s not but a few more boards and a little bit more work and well worth the extra strength in the floor. I have always overbuilt. Code is just the minimum. Engineered floor trusses are OK but I’d much rather use two buys. One at the house ever catches fire. It is very dangerous to fight a fire in a house with that type of system. And they are not very far resistant meaning on a house to catch a fire with normal wood, you have a chance to save it and rebuild it versus one done with the engineered floor with the same fire will most likely be a total loss. Regular 2xs can take heat and water versus engineered floor trusses cannot. And after being in the fire service for over 20 years and and a contractor for about the same amount of time I stay away from engineered floor trusses. If I know a house that is on fire as engineered floor trusses in it, I will not let my people go in. It is too dangerous.
