How to French Seam an Armhole

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This week I'm finally sharing a sewing technique tutorial so many of you have been asking for - how to French seam an armhole. A French seam encases the raw edges of the fabric inside the seam and is often seen on tailored shirts or high end garments where an exceptionally neat finish is required. You can find a video on this technique here on our channel, however, lots of you wanted to see how to apply it to an armhole so here it is and it is easier than you might think too. In fact I would go as far as to say that it actually makes easing the sleeve in easier because you do it in stages rather than all in one go.
As always any tools or gadgets I use can be found on our website and I've included the links below.
► Sew Essential www.sewessential.co.uk/
► Purple thang www.sewessential.co.uk/purple...
► Hemline tailors ham www.sewessential.co.uk/tailor...
► Prym tailors ham www.sewessential.co.uk/prym-t...
► Hemline sleeve roll www.sewessential.co.uk/tailor...
► Prym sleeve roll www.sewessential.co.uk/prym-t...
Carefree Melody by Twin Musicom is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/... www.twinmusicom.org/song/302/c... www.twinmusicom.org

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11 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 174

@maureenkearns5376 3 месяца назад

Im starting to sew An unstructured garment after 35 years of NOT sewing garments. I used to make tailored clothing including all of my late husbands suits and have been an avid quilter for 22 years. I just made a mock up of my first garment and could not remember how I made nice seams back in the day. SoI checked RU-vid and found your channel, immediately subscribed. Thank you so much for a super tutorial because this is what I want to do, just didn’t know how to do the sleeves. The perfect video.

@jenniferewart 2 года назад

Thank-you so much Lucy, I don’t have an overlocker so I’ve always struggled with neat finishes on armholes , this is a game changer for me !!!

@karenwetherall7310 3 года назад

I was taught to ease by pinning the middles together between the pinned seams, then the middles between those pins, then again between those pins....... it evens out the distribution of the fullness.

@roxannlegg750 Год назад

Do you know (and this might be my years of dressmaking training in high school, by old school teaching back in the early 1980's), but i tack or baste everything that is going to be a pain in the bum. Literally, I tack almost everything with a curve or long seam that can "migrate". It seems tedious BUT it removes SO much stress, and I have won numerous awards over time for my work, and basting is my biggest secret! I had only just turned 12, when i started Clothing and Textiles in high School - yes it was a girls school but it was a Technical School, where students were still taught the usual maths/science/english/languages etc etc, however we were absolutely drilled by masters in cooking and sewing. Esme in Great British Sewing Bee, is tame compared to these women who taught us. But that was a unique high school and almost the end of an era...now most adults can barely repair a hem or button!

@jenniferewart 11 месяцев назад

Thanks Lucy, great tutorial and so helpful for those of us sewists who don't have an overlocker.

@ljwilliams755 Год назад

I think you just did magic, Lucy!

@myinnermagpie 11 месяцев назад

Such a good idea. Ive always gathered two to three rows of gathering. Three is best for east and even gathers. Using stitches slightly smaller than long gathering stitches also helps the fabric gather into finer waves/pleats. I almost never have to redo sections. But I’m going to try your method now and it would be a time saver.

@shellyscott8275 3 года назад

Thanks Lucy. Your “How to ........” tutorials get better and better. I’ve been a huge fan of French seams for a long time, but always chickened out of armholes 😂, well not anymore ! You’ve explained the technique so clearly and simply that I’m feeling confident of success next time ! Thank you 🤗

@SewEssential 3 года назад

What lovely feedback Shelly, thank you so so much, I love hearing people say that the tutorials have helped them to conquer a new technique.

@znycelondon5313 3 года назад

I enjoyed watching and understand that slow and steady along with accurate placement and pressing is very important. You did a perfect tutorial of explaining! 🥰

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Ah thanks so much it's so good to hear this, tutorials are quite difficult to film sometimes so it's nice to know they come across well.

@debranogas1992 Год назад

I was making a lightweight see-through wrap to go over a tank top. Did all the inside seams as French seams. Did the outside edges as a rolled seam. When it came to putting on the sleeves I was worried of doing an armhole French seam as it would mean one spot the fabric sewn would be 6 layers thick and may be too bulky. So I chickened out. Instead I made a seam binding from the fabric used, sewed the armhole the traditional way then bound the seam with my hand made seam binding. Looks okay but now seeing your video I might try to do the armhole seam as a french seam next time. Very good video with nice explanations.

@skoop0808 3 года назад

I love your 'bubble' pinning methond! Will definitely be using that the next time I set in a sleeve. Love your tutorials, they are so clear and easy to understand. Thanks for all your hard work!

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Thank you so much that really means a lot and inspires me to keep going! We have a new one out today I think you will really like!

@DC-oh1um 3 года назад

We call it English seam over here in France 😘. I like to use it almost everywhere as well as flat seam.

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Really, do you?! That's amazing! Yes they're so neat aren't they?

@qormi1000 3 года назад

Thank you Lucy. I can see me sewing French seams everywhere now :)

@SewEssential 3 года назад

It's a pleasure Pepprina, sounds like a plan, they are such a lovely option for lightweight fabrics where you want that special finish.

@kimwatts5750 3 года назад

Thank you Lucy, for a well illustrated video😀

@nanastevens4094 3 года назад

Love the look of French seams, feel it is worth the extra effort for the nice finish.

@SewEssential 3 года назад

I totally agree!

@candie58 3 года назад

You are absolutely amazing. Thank you for such a great tutorial.

@diannerippon7349 3 года назад

Excellent tutorial. I’m learning so much from you.

@peeshyholland433 Год назад

That was a wonderful tutorial. I love all the sewing tips.

@tonileggate 3 года назад

Another brilliant lesson, thank you

@fionnualaryan7584 3 года назад

Thank you so much. Your demonstration skills are excellent

@vickicarol1733 3 года назад

That was a great explanation on sewing a French seam.

@catherinelennon4804 4 месяца назад

Thank you so much for this video,Lucy. Very informative.

@carolmichell4860 3 года назад

Very timely! I’m making a viscose blouse with French seams and will be setting the sleeves either tomorrow or Sunday. I wasn’t looking forward to wrestling with the sleeves, but this video has given me a lot of help and reassurance. Thank you.

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Great news, I hope it went well.

@carolmichell4860 3 года назад

@@SewEssential just finished! Later than expected, but your advice was a great help!

@tinawelch3005 2 года назад

thank you for a comprehensive tutorial.

@helenbucknall2317 Год назад

Thank you so much for this excellent tut. I've never set a sleeve before or sewn a french seam. I'm pretty rubbish at sewing. But I followed your tut and it came out really well. I'm so happy.

@dianelrsmith9840 3 года назад

Exellant!!!! What a great idea to do armhole French seams! I love French Seams! Thank you for your expertise and tips!!!

@mrs.m8597 Год назад

Wow, Can't wait to try this!

@mickiconnor8305 Год назад

Thank you. Your videos are very helpful.

@francescaleaton4973 4 месяца назад

Fantastic tutorial - thank you ♥️

@nyperi13 10 месяцев назад

That was an excellent tutorial -- thank you so much!

@published1789 3 года назад

So glad to see this tutorial -- thank you. I just couldn't make the jump (in my head) from French Seam on a straight seam to a set in sleeve. Thank you!!

@SewEssential 3 года назад

It's a pleasure I'm so glad you enjoyed it and it makes sense now.

@franceshammond8316 Год назад

Great video Lucy just watched the French seam on Sewing Bee so timing will be spot on.

@Buggalugz84 10 месяцев назад

Thank you so much! I just couldnt get my head around this internal rotation and this was simple and easy to follow and it produced a great result

@cyndyregeling6337 3 года назад

Brilliant! I could not get my head around that one when you talked of it ...and it is so simple! Thank you so much!!

@SewEssential 3 года назад

I'm so pleased to hear it Cyndy that is music to my ears I'm so glad it was helpful to you. Sometimes you just need to see it/do it with sewing don't you?

@yvobalcer 19 дней назад

I saw an one minute youtube video where the sleeve was put in with a serger. You change the differential to 1.5 which controls the serger foot and it does the job. The sleeve is inside and the bodice is on the outside as you sew. It takes minutes.

@cynthiasloan3867 3 года назад

Well done! I can't wait to try this. Thanks

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Ah thank you Cynthia, it's great to hear such lovely feedback and enthusiasm from you all, I love it!

@debbiebrannam2408 3 года назад

Such a great tutorial Lucy , thanks 😊

@SewEssential 3 года назад

So pleased you liked it, thanks for the feedback

@madhavij4210 7 месяцев назад

Great tutorial

@patriciadeckers2094 Год назад

Thanks for the wonderfull tutorial. I will use it for the next men´s shirt. I have to do an extra stitching on the outside of the shirt. I hope it will work. Greetings from Belgium. Love you tutorials.

@lyndapalmano4490 3 года назад

Hi Lucy I was shown a technique for pinning a sleeve. Roll the bodice over your fingers with the sleeve on the top. This distributes the fullness of the sleeve easily. Also taking the seam allowances down to 1cm makes a huge difference. Hope that you find this technique helpful. Love your videos.

@ladylouise1969 3 года назад

Yes, it makes a world of difference!!

@SewEssential 3 года назад

What a great idea thanks for sharing.

@alexaelliott2598 3 года назад

I am going to try this technique, both the French seam and rolling the bodice over my fingers with sleeve on top. Thank you all.

@denisekay4292 2 года назад

I'm new at sewing (at my age!). I can't visualize the technique of rolling the bodice over the fingers... Is there a video link out there? I don't really know what to search for either, although I did try. Much thanks! 🙏

@tailorofcharnwood 9 месяцев назад

Absolutely agree about the seam allowance, I’m forever changing my seam allowances when I sew items with curved seams. And rolling the seam over your fingers as you pin works so well - adding a tiny bit of ease as the top layer has to go just a tad further - especially if there is only a little ease to add in. If there is more ease to add I tend to pin at the halfway points initially and then pin at the quarter points, then the eighths so that ease it is distributed evenly - same method as I use for elastic.

@77Lavo 3 года назад

I've just ordered a purple thang from you, what a handy little tool, thank you for the fab tips 💜

@tashapeltier1442 Год назад

😂 0:00 ❤😊 0:00 😂g NC&^'did Daz j😂😂😂❤❤🎉😂

@annholmes9650 3 года назад

Loved watching this video, you made it seem so easy. I have made french seams before, but never found an armhole. Thank you very much for demystifying this for me. Your voice is so calm, could tune in for hours, lol. Thank you X X ps thing I'm going to get me that 'purple thang' looks very handy! X x

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Hi Ann, I'm so glad you enjoyed it and my voice came across as calm - I'm not sure my Husband and kids would agree haha! The purple thang is mega handy you're right.

@jeannestark2434 3 года назад

thank you Lucy that was a great tutorial I didn't know how to do that around a sleeve take care and I love watching your videos.

@SewEssential 3 года назад

It's a pleasure Jeanne and thanks so much for your kind comments I really appreciate it.

@tammymasson2343 3 года назад

You definitely helped me! I've done French seams, but always skipped the armholes! I was afraid of the curve and the easing. You totally demystified that for me! Thank you!

@SewEssential 3 года назад

I'm so pleased to hear it Tammy that's great news, it gives me such a buzz to know I've helped people to work this technique out.

@lesleyr2677 9 месяцев назад

Thank you Lucy. For years I've place gathering stitches and tacking in sleeves (how I was taught) but going to try your bubble methos as it takes me ages to distribute the ease evenly

@wendyb7993 3 года назад

Fabulous thanks 😍

@carolemuenzer5490 3 года назад

Your tutorial was so precise and clear to see, best I’ve seen on any utubes

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Thanks that's lovely.

@Rach-gt2yv 3 года назад

Great tutorial, really helpful. Thank you

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Thank you so much for your kind comments they really mean a lot and it is great to hear it was helpful to you.

@veragiles981 3 года назад

Thanks, Lucy, for a really useful tutorial. I like the inside of garments to look neat so this was perfect! (And the purple thank is ridiculously useful!!)

@SewEssential 3 года назад

I'm so glad you liked it Vera and yes agreed it's amazing how such a little piece of plastic can be so so useful.

@catrionacurry8674 3 года назад

very useful - thank you Lucy

@SewEssential 3 года назад

You’re welcome 😊

@ncalgal4699 3 года назад

Adding this to my list of rsewing eference videos, thanks!

@SewEssential 3 года назад

It's a pleasure I'm so glad it was helpful to you.

@princessquic1 Год назад

Great video thank so much for sharing I found it to be very informative and very helpful awesome I need a machine like that!!!!!

@lillahorvath7385 9 месяцев назад

Wow, I can't wait to try it on my next blouse project! Just a suggestion; use solid colored fabric for the demonstrations. The printed designs made it difficult to make out the technique.

@gerrysiebert8639 3 года назад

Tx for doing this tutorial...v helpful!

@SewEssential 3 года назад

It's a pleasure Gerry, lots of people seem to have found it very useful, which makes me very happy!

@maureencullen1008 3 года назад

That was great,you made it so simple.I will make sure I press.

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Thank you Maureen, I'm so glad you liked it.

@philiptipping6738 3 года назад

Thanks very much, very helpful. Cheers Mary

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Thanks Mary I love helping everyone out.

@irishcamper2106 3 года назад

Excellent tutorial, thank you 🙏. Well timed for me too as only yesterday I made a blouse with french seamed shoulders and bodice sides. 🌺🍀

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Ooooh sounds lovely, so glad it was useful to you.

@shirleyscott6997 3 года назад

Thanks for the tutorial. Really informative and you’ve made french seams a lot less daunting. I actually bought the purple thang when you mentioned it in one of your previous videos. I use it whether I’m using the sewing machine or overlocker to help push my fabric through or to help pin it down while I sew. I would recommend it to everyone and really cheap too . X

@SewEssential 3 года назад

I'm so glad you enjoyed it Shirley and I know exactly what you mean about the purple thang it is so useful.

@joek81981 Год назад

I have this thing where I read things wrong and I for real thought this title said "How to Seem Like a French A**hole". LOLOL You helped me make my camper a few years ago. Adventures in Ripstop

@ManOfMonism Месяц назад

I thought she said it a few times too 😂

@patfisher4118 3 года назад

thank you ,very useful

@SewEssential 3 года назад

You're very welcome.

@lisahodges8299 3 года назад

I much prefer this finish!

@SewEssential 3 года назад

It's lovely isn't it, thanks so much for watching.

@elizabethtaylor1180 3 года назад

Great tutorial Lucy will have to purchase those tools

@SewEssential 3 года назад

I'm so glad you found it useful Elizabeth and yes the right tools always really helps with the job at hand, it's amazing what a difference they make.

@dseboem 2 года назад

I loved that you called it bubble pinning!!! I never had a name for easing in sleeves and bubble pinning is so spot on!!!🥰

@jillridley1041 3 года назад

Thank you so much, has helped cleared that technique up for me as often want to include French seams in my garments but if its not included in the pattern, I couldn't work out how to keep to the seam allowance! 👍

@SewEssential 3 года назад

It's a pleasure it's great to hear it has cleared things up for you, happy sewing.

@l.baughman1445 3 года назад

So helpful!!! I’ve been afraid of French Seam finishes..... no more fear!! 😷👍

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Yay! Go for it, you can do it!

@elsafischer3247 3 года назад

Great thank you

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Thank you too for watching.

@barbaracobb6090 3 года назад

Thank you for this instructional video! I would have never been able to figure this out with just written instructions because I am one that needs to see what you’re doing to get the full understanding. You do a wonderful job with your explanations and also with your video. Often I can’t see the area being discussed on various instructional videos, but you go to great lengths to make sure to not only include the great visuals but also to explain as you work. A question I have: can French seams be sewn on the inner and outer leg seams easily using the instructions you gave us for the sleeve but applying it to the pants leg? And once finished, does it matter which direction you press the finished seam prior to hemming the pants? Again, thank you for the great ideas and instructions you make available. I greatly appreciate everything!

@tracyfrost 3 года назад

Thank you

@SewEssential 3 года назад

You're welcome

@richellevdberg93 3 года назад

Thank you so much! Very clear tutorial. Soon I'll make my first top with French seams. I think I am going to like it!

@ladylouise1969 3 года назад

Nice video!! I do love a "French Seam"!! Very good! Thank you for sharing, and have a great weekend!! :+)

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Me too, it's a pleasure and I hope you had a great weekend too.

@ladylouise1969 3 года назад

Thank you! You’re a joy to watch! 😎

@nancybenson1951 Год назад

Thanks for this video. Now I will do a sleeve FS with confidence. I do wish you used a light color with different color thread so it would have been easier to see. 🙂👍🏻

@angelikahagner2227 7 месяцев назад

Mercir

@janetwest1244 Год назад

Such a helpful tutorial before I start my first garment in cotton lawn. Thankyou as always Lucy. My go to sewing guide.

@Yoon_la 3 года назад

Wow this is so amazing, since I don't have serger, but one question, how do I join the arm pit area with, since I use french seam for all seam

@jacquelineshewring503 5 месяцев назад

Did your Seam guide foot come with your sewing machine? I’m just about to sew a dressing gown with French seams , it will be the first time for this procedure. My friend said there was a you tube video for French seams for sleeves . Thank you for this very useful.

@user-ty3qf3lu4i 8 месяцев назад

Omg. I am henceflrtj never going to sew a sleeve without a french seam.

@kathleenbarron7654 3 года назад

When doing your forward shoulder adjustment, would it make sense to bring the cap of the sleeve forward also?

@susancelotto122 2 месяца назад

Question!! I’m making an heirloom First Communion dress. The sleeves are Alencon lace with netting underneath and the bodice is satin with alencon lace over it. Usually, the curves in the armhole are clipped after seeing to allow movement. Does this method allow as much movement? I need to know so I don’t mess up setting the sleeves into the bodice (little girls size 7 pattern)

@beliratube 3 года назад

Hi! Very interesting tutorial. Just one question: when you have done the second row of stitches and it has encased the raw edges, do you press the seam towards rhe bodice or towards the sleeve? Thanks!

@MissPlaced84 2 года назад

I don't think there's a wrong way to press the seam allowance, however, if you have a little bit of extra fullness in the sleeve it would make more sense to press it to the sleeve side. The extra bulk would help it to puff out just a bit easier.

@donnadannessa6024 3 года назад

Hi Lucy. Great tutorial as always. Thx! Question though.... after wrong sides have been stitched together why press open the seam allowance?, Since you're just going to turn right sides together and stitch to encase that seam allowance anyway? Maybe you said and I missed it.

@SewEssential 3 года назад

It just gives a really crisp, accurate finish, but you could probably get away with skipping this stage

@rhondacronkhite606 2 года назад

I wondered that, too, but the result was so neat and professional I figured it would be worth the extra step and no doubt contributed to the final result.

@lilyneish564 4 месяца назад

Hi there! Is it possible to use a french seam if you have a puffy sleeve? Will the gathering on the sleeve make it to bulky? X

@moyagreene9590 Год назад

Could you please show the bodice -rolling -over - finger technique suggested in the commentary.

@carolhiller1112 Год назад

Does it create a lot of bulk if you do French seams on both the sleeve and bodice seams as well? If so what do you do?

@viddy8379 3 года назад

Thankyou Lucy, Could you use less busy fabric next time to demo. What about using your finger behind the foot to ease fabric in? Well explained video.

@MissPlaced84 2 года назад

I tend to work with fabric that doesn't have much stretch, how comfortable would this be on a stiffer fabric? (Usually I use quite a narrow seam allowance at the armscye. Little tip: an easier method than "bubble pinning" is to use a single row of basting stitches near your seam line, and you can pull it (as if to gather) just enough to get the fabric to roll over to fit the curve.

@seemtobeasecret Год назад

Hi. Is sewing from sleeve side means, sleeve on top and bodice at the bottom?

@louisehughes1836 4 месяца назад

Do you need to add extra seam allowance for some patterns?

@lauriesweeney4517 2 года назад

The arm hole went well on my kimono But how do I incorporate the bias seam as french seam also?

@sassychicphotography 2 года назад

Can this method be used with a bodice that is lined?

@sylviashortman4350 3 года назад

Hi Lucy thanks for video great help. Do you have to add more seam allowance if you are doing two lots of machining.

@SewEssential 3 года назад

No problem, no you don't - the two seam allowances add up to the original seam allowance - 1/4" + 3/8" = 5/8" I hope that makes sense.

@sylviashortman4350 3 года назад

Many thanks, makes sense. Really enjoying your help. @@SewEssential

@janicetiernan689 11 месяцев назад

Hi I always sew in the sleeve before joining side seems and sleeve seem , it’s so much easier for me ! Is there a good reason not to do it this way ??

@jennylarking1936 3 года назад

Do you sell those specialised feet with seam allowance markings? That looks really useful. I couldn’t actually see what type of machine you have but I have a Janome 8900.

@SewEssential 3 года назад

We do sell them and we do stock Janome feet and accessories too, but I don't think there is one exactly the same for that brand I'm afraid. Mine is a Husqvarna.

@Kittyququmber Год назад

Thanks for the great video. One question -why do you iron open the first roughed edge seam Bcs you only end up ironing them together anyway before you start sewing the 3/8 “ final seam.

@ZydecoBlue Год назад

I was wondering the same thing.

@EsteeLaurie 3 года назад

Could you do this method on a princess seam?

@vickievans4669 2 года назад

Do you press the completed seam towards the bodice or the sleeve?

@SewEssential 2 года назад

I usually press towards the sleeve so you don't flatten the sleeve head.

@samdumas8692 3 года назад

What pattern is your red jacket - love it

@SewEssential 3 года назад

It's actually a cardigan I bought from a shop called 'and other stories' here in the UK

@woollyrover 3 года назад

Thank you for this! So, the order of construction, if the side seams and shoulder seams had been french seamed already, would be the same? I'm trying to envision what those intersecting seams would look like -- two french seams would be bulky?

@l.baughman1445 3 года назад

Great question! I need to know too!

@laurajones4088 3 года назад

Lynn B and L. Baughman, I hope you don't mind my answering. The order of construction is the same. To reduce bulk, I sew a 2nd line of reinforcing stitches on both sides of the shoulder and underarm seams (around 1/2" each side of the seams) and then trim the seams where I've reinforced to 1/8". Applique/duckbill scissors work well for trimming. To add additional stability, reinforce the second line of stitching at the shoulder and underarm. I've never encountered an issue with the armhole seam coming apart. When sewing with lightweight fabric I find the amount of bulk to be minimal and the French seams provide a beautiful finish. Hope you find this helpful. Wasn't his an excellent tutorial?

@l.baughman1445 3 года назад

@@laurajones4088 thank you!!

@woollyrover 3 года назад

@@laurajones4088 Thanks!

@SewEssential 3 года назад

Thanks so much for your tips and suggestions Laura, some great ones there and thanks for your lovely feedback too. It is great to see our little community helping each other out I love it.

@KimoPollock 2 года назад

So the finished seam doesn't noticably flop around after pressing towards the armhole? i.e. it lays flat?

@elizabethrowe7262 3 года назад

I certainly prefer that technique rather then do the usual type of seam. Its much neater and seeing that I want to make a few blouses, I have picked rayon fabric to make them so french seam would be the best way to do this. I noticed you did not clip into the 1/4 inch seam so gather that is not necessary when sewing the french seam. Its great to see these hints and tricks of the trade to get best results.

@SewEssential 3 года назад

So pleased it was useful to you Elizabeth, yes there is no need to clip the seams when sewing a French seam on an armhole in my opinion.