How To: GE Oven Thermostat WB20K8 

Update. Went back in the morning after work. The liquid wrench worked its magic overnight, and I was easily able to remove the final two T15 screws and two gunked up control panel retaining screws. Used degreaser, rags and a shop vac to clean the entire oven while I had it taken apart. The whole repair with all the cleaning took about 5 hours (1 hour prep the day before and 4 hours to repair, clean and reassemble the next day) because the oven was just that gunked up and dirty. Well worth it though. The oven looks and works like new now and my friend is very happy she can safely bake again. Thank you for this video, Simon. Although not verbatim for my xl44, it was very succinct and helpful.

I went to prep this repair today for a friend who has an xl44, and learned that not all xl44s are created equal. This video is a good guide, but not a one size fits all. My xl44 only had ONE T15 screw per burner as opposed to the THREE per burner you see demonstrated here. Second big difference is that my white burner igniters were actually CLAMPED FROM BELOW. I tried to follow Simon's instructions to remove them but they weren't working, and I didn't want to break the igniters so I popped up the top panel, and sure enough they were being held by small metal clamps. I also noticed when I removed the control knobs that I was missing the two screws on each side of the inner controls so I removed the bottom screws on the control panel. The panel wouldn't easily come off like in the video. Turns out instead of four screws on the front I only have two screws on the topside of the control panel, one on each side toward the rear. They are rusty and gunked to hell so I doused them in liquid wrench in addition to two out of four of the T15 screws that were stubborn and wouldn't come out, and am letting it sit overnight before I go back tomorrow. I told my friend that this is a lot like working on cars. Theoretically it is easy, but 90% of the job is just getting annoying, seized, rusty screws, nuts and bolts out of the way so you can do the actual repair. Annoying as hell, but I'll probably have a fresh beer with me tomorrow when I head back to make it official man work.

Very helpful video. I will say, though, that it did matter how the 2 electrode parts were reattached. I will say, that was most probably how my stove was wired. My problem was resolved, but i will say, make sure you reattach them (the yellow & red cables) to the 2 tabs that are side by side, not the 2 that are singles. Thank you for this video.

Just did the job following your directions took 45 minutes you do not need to remove the stove top just take off the 12 burner screws and leave the igniter wires hooked up you can lift the stove top enough the get the job done, I TRIED TO UNPLUG THE IGNITER WIRES AND ONE BROKE OFF.

Brilliant, worked perfectly. Video couldn’t have explained it better

Thanks for the great video it was very helpful, I will be buying my parts from you as soon as I can get the serial number and find out if it is a stripped oven control knob or the thermostat.

Thank you....I may actually try this myself!

Amazing video!

Best instructional video

Very nice video.

I'm trying to figure out the replacement for WB20K10023 GE thermostat . That part has a 4 wire hookup . The replacement has 2 wire hookup . What should I do with the extra 2 wires ? GE has no wiring diagram for this replacement .

I had this exact switch short out. Oven igniter and gas stayed on even when the dial was "off". Thanks for the walkthrough

Great video

Easy. Thanks!

I have an older natural gas stove which was converted to propane for use at a cabin off-the-grid (ie., no electricity). The 4 burners and oven work well, but the thermostat does not work. Once the oven is turned on, the temperature always stays on the maximum temperature. Do I require electrical power for the oven thermostat to function properly? Thanks in advance, Dave Dunbar

I have Ge xl44 model JGBS20WEW2WW oven turns off after 5 minutes I replace igniter and TEMPUTURE sensor but still turns off any suggestions help thanks

I am thinking about replacing obsolete electronic board with a metal plate and this part, what you think? Great video.

can l use it for an incubator

My older whirlpool gas range doesn't use Torx 15, but rather 3/16 inch head screws. Problem is, they are in super tight, and on the one I tried to remove the head broke off. I'm afraid to break anymore. I did put some wd40 but didn't seem to help. Any other suggestions to get those burners lose?

when checking the thermastat switch ,I assume you've disconnected the power going to the stove/oven beforehand?

How can I test this part in order to confirm that it is the problem before I replace it?

👍🏼👏🏼

I turn on the oven and then turns off by itself after a few minutes would it be the thermostat?

This part is awful, there's a plastic piece between the two terminal contacts so when you turn the knob to off, it presses down on a contact shutting off the oven. That plastic keeps getting worn down fast and no longer able to press down(because its plastic and now has a hole from the constant turning of the knob and pressing the contact down) to replace the whole part and pay that much is not ideal. Anyone have a better part for this?

Pro appliance

I thought that if your oven is running excessively hot, that it is likely the thermostat. The video doesn't mention this as a reason to replace. Hmm.

The only treason why it should be replaced ..... What if the oven temp is way off?

Very helpful