How To Test An Oven Temperature Sensor 

Nice video. As an appliance tech with a ton of experience , I would just like to pass on my experience regarding oven sensors. The VAST MAJORITY of defective sensors I have ever tested passed the resistance test at room temperature (1080ohms @ 70F ). So don't assume that a sensor is good just because it reads good at room temperature. They start to go haywire at higher temps. They are cheap enough , so replacing them is the easiest option and most often solves the problem .If your sensor for some reason is very expensive ( say it's from a Viking or Wolf range etc) just buy one of those universal sensors that come with a variety of plugs. If one of the plugs doesn't fit then just cut the wires and splice them using high temp porcelain wire nuts. Every oven sensor I have ever seen has the same resistance values when new , regardless of the oven manufacturer .Having said that, there could be a chance that you have an oddball range where the manufacturer used a sensor that falls way outside the range of the rest of the industry. In that case you must purchase the correct sensor for that make and model. If you still have a problem after replacing the sensor, then the issue is most often the control board. Solder joints go bad on the boards or logic circuits fail giving the board the impression the sensor is defective. If you are capable, re-solder the joints that look suspicious , or take the board to a TV repair shop and ask them to inspect all the solder joints and re-solder the bad ones. Sometimes it can be cheaper to just replace the board..lol But often the board is no longer available so your choices are limited. There are companies that now repair many circuit boards. CoreCentric Solutions comes to mind, . Least often , but still should be checked before replacing the board, are wiring problems between the sensor and the board. Sometimes the plug at the sensor can be an issue. The pins internally don't connect tightly and cause issues (rare). I have seen where mice chewed through wires causing all kinds of problems. So if you see mouse droppings around the outside or the inside of the the range , be aware that you might have a wiring issue. I've seem mice that electrocuted themselves chewing into live wires.

I watched your video and used the information to fix my GE Wall Over....the sensor was good, but when I removed the sensor, found the wiring was loose, in the ceramic wire connectors. Tested the sensor using your advice, tested good, reinstalled works like a champ!!! You saved me a service appointment at $75 just to show up, probably double or triple that cost in parts and labor. Thx!!!

I'm a maintenance tech for a fairly large senior living complex I have been over paying for appliance parts for many years. I am so glad I found parts doctors!!!

Straight forward and precise tutorial. Well done!

Super handy video -- very clear!

Good simple video, thanks

The only experience I have fixing kitchen appliances is what I soaked in while watching my very handy dad, but that was almost 30 years ago. Still, this video allowed me to diagnose and fix my oven for less than $20. Thank you! The only criticism I have is the part I ordered from your store didn't fit the connector on my oven, but the instructions did say all I had to do was splice the wires. I was annoyed at first, but I figured it out, and now, I know how to splice wires!

Thanks for your help. Finally received new igniter that wasn’t lost or damaged, oven working again

Very helpful. Thanks!

Thank you for the very helpful info. It seemed to be spot on.

Thanks. video was clear and my oven works now.

I have a ge glass top oven. The sensor reading is 1096. Is this sensor still good. I'm getting an F2 code on the display

My Samsung preheats to about 140 and it fails to rise past that point , I have followed a lot of videos on testing , my temp sensor reads 1080. Every once in a while I can unplug it for a few hours and plug it back up and start oven and it will work but it doesn't happen often ! Am I at a loss?

Is the different than a 'thermostat fuse/thermal fuse'? I have an older ge electric oven model jbp76gs3ww, we did s self clean and the oven stopped working, the door stayed locked, and the display lights no longer work. The stove tops still work, so its not the power. Online I read this scenario is common, and its likely the thermostat fuse. Yet in pulling off the back panel, I see nothing that looks like a fuse. There was this kinked rod, with some blackening going into the oven - but here it looks like its supposed to be kinked. There's a brown circuit board with components on it behind the main knob/ thermostat dial - screwed onto a larger green circuit board, but nothing that looks like a fuse. I saw another video of a newer model where the thermal fuse was circular with 2 wires - there's something similar here, but its the oven light housing - which hasnt worked in years. Maybe the fuse is built into the bottom of the light socket? - as in the light filament can fail, but the fuse still works? I've tried looking at the owners manual online - but they have no electronics, videos and google searches, and I can't seem to find the thermostat/thermal fuse, and what it looks like. Another guy referred to me the fuse box/fuses might be under the stove top - but in lifting the top - its all 3 wire components near the burners, a 2 wire door closed switch, and a 2 wire door locked switch....I cannot find this frigging fuse, nor what it looks like as I keep getting mixed search results. Is it this tube thing?, if that pops/breaks from a self clean - would that kill the oven/door locked/no display - yet still have the stove tops working? Thanks for your time.

I have a double oven, model JB860SJSS. Recently we lost 8 loves of bread because they were underbaked. We had just baked bread earlier that day and it turned out fine. I cooked a pot pie the next day and the top did not brown. The upper oven worked fine. Both heating elements in the bottom oven turn red, so I don't think it could be a continuity issue with the heating elements. I am not getting any error issues. I tested the oven temperature and it was running low, but not evenly low, by up to 50 degrees. I turned it to +35 an tried again and then it was cooking perfect a lower temps, but way too high a higher temps. I settled on +20. At convection 400 was 400 and about 365 was 350, but it was still a non linear change. I recognize that is only a temporary fix. Would a faulty temperature sensor cause those issues or is it a control board issue? Would a control board only cause a faulty bottom oven? If it is a control board, what is the fix for that? Switch out the entire board? Is there a way to run diagnostics on the board? I am more used to analog fixes. We were also wondering if cooking with multiple pizza stones in the oven could have thrown it off.

Thank you

Nice video

I have a ge xl44 gas oven model JGBS20WEW2WW oven turns off after 5 minutes I replace the igniter and temp sensor but still turns off any suggestions help thanks

Great video and info below... Question: Our GE stove is not accurate what so ever. A few days ago we conducted the sugar test. It melts at 367 deg. Ours was off by 25 deg or more. I went into the front controls where you can adjust the temp sensor setting then re-ran the sugar test and it failed when replacing the temp sensor. When installing the new temp sensor I assume the adjustment should put back to zero? Thanks

I have a maytag stove stop the elements went and the technician came and replaced the elements I notice when I set the temperature for 350.it stop at 295.can that been the wrong elements was placed in the oven.

I have a Maytag dual fuel ( 2 electric ovens) There is a thermostat in each oven ( top smaller & Bottom is a full oven size) Looking at replacement thermostats is confusing are the thermostats the same part number ? Thank you for your help, Mike

nice one ,i want to ask one question please,i need to measure the temperature of the material in the microwave oven just online while drying so as i can log my data and see how the temperature profile is ,so can you please suggest the sensor type that can be used inside ?

Great video thank you. I have a Jennair Gas oven Model PRG 3610NP. I have replaced the Temp probe twice now. The last one has lasted 3 months. The oven still heats but will not heat past 375 degrees, no matter how long I leave it on for. Broil, convection all work fine. Any ideas what is causing this?

1phase and three phase oven all parts how to check it was working or not

If my temperature sensor is working, the power supply to the oven heating elements should be interrupted when the desired temperature is reached, correct ? The problem I have is an oven that does not warm up at all although the heating elements are ok (one is new) and they both receive 120V on each lead when baking is selected ON. So it should warm up but it doesn't. Any idea ? (Kenmore Electric Range C970-657322)

Parts Dr!!> I am getting worried if my GE model JBP66DY1AD is going to heat up after I install the replacement part WB23X5340 if the connector does not fit & I have to splice the wires do I need to solder them before I connect with the high temp ceramic wire nuts? (Whats going on now is bake element I just installed a new one but it is not getting hot, the top broil element starts to warm up even gets hot during the bake mode but not the bottom element)

@PartsDr is 1050 to low for room temp my oven keeps beeping preheat when trying get to temp and says dr as in I'm guessing it either needs a Dr lol or it's saying door is open so it won't preheat?? Please help I have a Frigidaire MEF352BGWD

I can cook in the 300-399F range no problem my Maytag gas oven, but when I use 400+F or higher it will claim it heated to temp then it will not maintain the temp, allowing oven to cool down while in use.. Sometimes if I cancel and restart it will hold temp to cook a pizza, sounds like control board issue, unless a bad sensor can stick at a certain resistance in this 400F range, doesn't appear possible though... Now decision, stove or board... feature rich stove that would cost nearly a grand to replace and 100 for used board with lifetime, guess board is next.. Seen remanufactured boards but they were in different color...

I have a neff oven wich shows err in the temperature display. I dag inside and after a tedious work around, I found a system of switches and a rotary component that turned them on and off according to microcomputer commands. One of the switche had melted and there was no contact of electricity. I changed the switch with a new one and put everything back together. The oven still shows the err code. I removed the sensor and did the test but there is not reading at all even in 2k or 20k ohm scale of the digital multimeter. I think the sensor is broken and causes the err code. What do you think? The heating elements are tested good. The motherboards seems to be good.

my Maytag range last night went poof ( i think ) i had a chicken in the oven at 375 degrees and i was in the living room when i heard what sounded like electricity for 2 seconds - you know how it makes that sound in videos of power lines arcing went in the kitchen and the oven stopped working, the lightbulb inside it went off and the 4 burners on top dont turn on if i turn the knobs for the burners, they dont heat up but the little display on the range shows what seems to be an error code " m266 e255 any idea what i might have to change out ? thanks

LG Range lsc5683- Intermittently will preheat over and beyond the set temperature. It won't stop heating (over 500 degrees) and the display continues to indicate preheating. Does that mean I should start with testing the oven temp sensor?

I am running into an issue where the flame will not extinguish in my oven even after turning the knob to off. Is this more of the thermostat being bad and not the sensor? Concise video, by the way. Easy to understand!

Good video. I'm wondering if you would be able to provide a hint or advice on my issue. My Kenmore gas oven has the lowest temperature setting of 170F. I would like to lower this minimum setting to around 90F or 95F for the purpose of preparing dough for bread making inside the oven, and I need 95F for the dough to raise. I'm thinking about introducing a resistor in series with the temperature sensor in order to cheat the oven into thinking that it's 170F at 95F actual temperature. I would also connect a simple switch that would short or bypass the resistor when I'm not making bread. Or is it possible to reprogram the oven to a lower minimum temperature?

No continuity is just what I needed to know 🏆👍👍

I have a Maytag model #WFG515SOESO. The oven will heat up to temperature and then won’t cycle back until the temperature is much lower. In other words, it doesn’t cook evenly at normal temperatures. When I heat up to 450 to 500 the oven cycles properly. When at 325 to 400 it won’t cycle properly. I have checked the sensor and it reads exactly as it should. I have run diagnostic tests and get no error codes. I have changed the bake temperature from 0 to -30 and 30 degrees with no effect. Is it possible the sensor is shorted some how and won’t cycle in lesser temperatures? If the control board is bad, shouldn’t it show some sort of code or possibly not work at high temperatures? Sorry for the long question, I am just confused. Help! Thanks for any guidance.

Thank you for your knowledge! I tested my oven igniter and I had 174.5 Ohms is this ok because my oven will not come on!

GE Model# JBP78WY3WW. Oven controller displays oven preheated 400". Not heating up. Placed thermometer in oven. Only reaching 200º. Element appears good. No holes/splits/visible damage. Ran ohm meter on sensor. Testing at 1.108 on 2K scale at room temp 72º-74º. I can hold sensor and watch ohms slowly increase. Since sensor appears good, only thing left is the controller. What's best way to meter/test controller? Seems to me if element is good and sensor is good that the only thing remaining in my troubleshoot is the controller. (?)

I have a Whirlpool RS696PXBB2. When using the oven in BAKE mode, the top burner will somewhat heat up the oven, but the bottom burner will not come on. I replaced it and I have the same problem. 1. Could a temp sensor cause this? (Could a temp sensor cause the bottom burner to not come on at all?) 2. Is the top burner supposed to be heating up when in BAKE mode? I didn't think so but am not sure. If not, I may have more serious issues. Any ideas? Do you think this is worth pulling the temp sensor and checking it? Thanks for the great video. Update: I was able to remove the sensor and check it. It has 1090 Ohms, so I guess it is good. I'm lost, though, if it's not the burner or the sensor. Control board, maybe? Maybe even wiring, because it is a very old oven. Thanks!!!

My KitchenAid slide-in range gives an error code F2 and beeps when I use the oven, and sometimes when I use the cooktop. Other times it will begin to beep when not in use. Would this indicate a bad circuit board instead of a bad sensor?

Good video. My oven went to right temp, then shut off. Is this temp sensor?

What is the solution if the sensor is only accessible from inside the oven and the wiring harness will not release sufficient slack to expose the connector thro the aperture? Martin

ldg4315bd is a gas double oven only problem with top oven. Works in broil mode doesn’t light in bake mode f9 error comes up. Checked thermistor checks okay. What else should I check.

I have a whirlpool gas accubake and it wont get all the way up to heat. I have replaced the igniter and the temperature sensor. could it be the thermal fuse? im at a loss here. thanks

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LG 4315 top oven not heating in bake mode but heats up in broil mode. Display showed F9 error once would temp.sensor cause this problem

If my LG electric oven is off by 85° low how likely is it that is the sensor rather than the board? Do you see boards failing regularly? I’m gonna pull the sensor and test it. Thank you.

Ok. To get to the rear of the oven was a major electrical task, as the original installer had left no slack cable from a sub panel located behind a lazy Susan in a corner cabinet. What should have taken 30 mins max took a day! Now how do I know what temperature is actually achieved? Seems to work but my cook is sceptical! Martin

Can this thermistor sensor have proper reading and still be faulty? I have the issues with oven not reaching desired temperature but if I set it higher it will reach initial temperature but not new temperature is set. Every element is working and thermistor checking with approximate readings you said...

I have LG Microwave oven, mode MC 2146BP, that does show F 01 error, and shuts down at exact 10 minutes from the time I start using convection mode. According to manual, F 01 error code means, check thermistor, I want to change thermistor which will provide max 220 C temperature, which thermistor shall I buy and what shall be ohm value ?? Can u please make a video on how to change thermistor or LG Microwave

hello, I have a frigidaire oven, I havent tested the temp probe with an ohm meter yet. But before buying a probe maybe someone with know how will be able to troubleshoot and give me a 100% answer...who know the internet is a great place sometimes. When I usually try to heat to the stove it gets abit hot...not very. When I put it on Broil 500 F the top element doesn't get orange ( I can see the thing get bright orange normally). But I have found that each time I put it on autoclean...the next morning when the autoclean is done and the stove has cooled down the broil 500F works (orange) and the stove on lets say 350 F seems to heat up correctly. Does this mean that the temp probe is the problem? since the autoclean seems to fix the problem temporarily ? Thanks

My oven isn't heating to the temperature that I set it to, so I pulled the sensor and did the ohms test. I'm not sure what the result means because it won't settle on a number and keeps bouncing between a low number and a high one. Is my meter broken or is the sensor bad? Thanks!

Hello, my GE gas oven show preheat when I push on bake and stay on without showing the temperature going up supposedly. What is the issue? Thanks

Hi, we own a Whirlpool GLP84800 and we recently noticed the cooking taking longer in the oven, this morning when trying to use it, it wont even start heating. The broil fonction wont start either. When turning it on, we hear a ''click'' sound like usual and the board screen said it start the pre-heat but nothing actually start. Could this be related to the sensor ? thank you !!

My oven heat is by 50 degrees lower than what the screen oven tells me, I put one of those thermometer inside the oven and it’s 50 degrees lower, what would you recommend, please help as I don’t have money to replace oven and I do use my oven very often. Thanks

I just tested my oven element it is at .4 ohms. But my bake element isn't getting hot. It is on broil. Do you think it's my temperature sensor?

Samsung gas range suddenly has issue 5yr old.no error message.conv.& reg. bake settings.takes forever to pre heat then while set at 350 only reaches 285.bump up to 400 goes to 450?will test sensor any advise before I start.thanx

I have a ohm reading of 1.092 Ohms at room temperature is that ok or is it to high.

I m getting F3 error message on my Whirlpool range, Does it mean I have to replace temperature sensor? Thank you

I have a HOTPOINT RB525DP1WH Electric Oven/Range. The oven light stays on and temp is stuck on high about 450 deg. and will not adjust. What do I do?

Ok. My oven turns on to preheat but does not even heat. I replaced the bake element and thermal fuse but not the sensor. Does the sensor also have control of the oven even heating? It preheats then clicks and does nothing.

How far off can the ohm's reading be? You say a good reading is 1080. Mine reads 1095. If that bad or ok,?

I have a Amana stove the indicator light doesn't come on when oven is turned on, also the hot surface also doesn't light either. But both of those lights come on when the burners are being used. Question is does that thermostat also run those lights?

where are you finding cheap temp sensors? Samsung is charging 88.00 and 60 for my temp sensors

my Whirlpool gas stove bake or broil will not light the ignites can this be my problem thx

My oven is a ge CT959STSS, when I want to do anything in the oven (bake, broil, warm, etc) NOTHING works, the oven turns on, but it doesn't heat at all. It remains cool and the number stays in 100 (sometimes 105, but doesn't heat up), yesterday I made it work, I don't even know how, just pressed some random settings in SF. I disconnected it to assemble the oven happy to know it worked, but when I connected it again it, oh big surprise, it stopped working again. I've tried many things, but I don't seem to make it work, does someone knows if this temperature sensor may be the cause?

If I pulled the probe and it seems to be testing at only about 800 ohm, does that confirm why the oven won't heat? I can't tell if the problem is the probe or the Control Board. It's a convection oven, Kenmore Model #79092803015 and when I turn on "pre-heat" it begins to warm but very very slowly and doesn't get very hot. Neither Broil nor Bake heats the elements up at ALL, they just stay cold. When I put it on "convection bake" or "convection broil" it warms very slowly but does't get hot enough to cook food. Sound more like the probe or the Control Board? Any way to confirm for sure?

Our temperature sensor tested at 1128 on the meter. Is that a fail or is it ok?

I have an LG electric stove and My oven is overheating, I change the temperature sensor and it’s still burning the food, I set it for 350 to bake a cake and 15 mins after the cake is burnt ... what could be the issue ?

help my oven dosent stay on and the clock keeps turning off and blinking it will start blinking in the middle of the day for no reason ) sometimes I can use the broiler for a few minites before the clock shuts off and blinks and the broiler turns off ; can anyone help me please being a disabled honorable vet female has its draw backs on being able to fix things; thanks for any help.

How can I get a oven temperature resistance detector

My temp keeps clicking on and off can't turn the oven on its a Whirlpool

Can you bypass the sensor just long enough to see if the oven element comes on?

I checked my sensor and it has the right ohms reading , but i still have a code showing that the sensor is defective ???

easiest test would be in the ice mixed with the water (32) and next after just boiled water ( which is about 200), but you will not find the numbers of the resistant for that temperatures (((

So I bought a new one and that won't work

Not a comment, just a question. Oven if started at the set temp of 350 will go way beyond that. If I start it at 275 and increase slowly, I can get to the 350 and keep that. The control board could be the problem but I am wondering why the oven light burns out every time I use the oven. Is this two problems, one electrical?

I don't have one of these testers. Buying one is more expensive than just buying a new sensor and rolling the dice.

Old temp sensor was 730 ohms. Bought a new one and it too was around 730 ohms. Bad sensor or should I look at something else. Element continuity is good when I turn on the power to bake I’m only getting around 110 V. wall and wires coming off the stove give me 240

My temp sensor has no plug it’s just one continuous part

Why in these days all english channels are provided with arabic subtitles rather then English.. all channels the same

This is a gas range

Why does it mess up