Good to see an ultra quickshot video. Phill would you say 5% thining of the top coat and ease bit more to get it spraying a nice fan pattern at 5. I’ve just recently used the isolac with the same primer on frames, used the 210 then dropped on to a 208 for the finish coats and like Phil says the finish i feel is excellent.
Do you wait for the next day with the isomat primer when spraying before topcoat? It’s 24 hours before a top coat isn’t it and the satin 4 hours before recoat. It’s one product I haven’t spayed yet only brush and rolled, will be spraying it on an extension soon.
I did the UC the previously day. And for next two coated the next day with satin. It dries quick so it's not like physically brushing the surface with the paint where it may still pull on you.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yeah I wasn’t sure what would happen painting before they recommended? As long as it was dry…. As u say spraying isn’t like it’s going to pull.
Nice one, Phil. That Quickshot looks a dream to use. Wish it had been around when I bought the Ultra which has been both unreliable and cumbersome. Have you got a preference for a particular water-based undercoat? My system (for bare wood/mdf) was BIN>123>Scuff X, but switched to BM's Fresh Start for the undercoat as found it covered better than 123.
Bare MDF.... You don't really need BIN, it's not a problem surface. Just give it a bit old up of water based primer and UC. Sand between and fill up and other coat, Look at Isomat All Primer. Bedec All Prime. Hanford and Green all purpose primer. Loads will do I see no need to use BIN
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator The majority of the MDF is usually routed Phil, so tons of exposed fibres everywhere. I've found BIN the best primer for not raising the fibres. It's really the undercoat, and finding the best one for opacity (some undercoats don't like going over BIN in one go I've found). Fresh Start is decent but maybe a bit pricey. If you had a ready-primed surface and was going to use a water-based UC to achieve a blanket white base for white topcoats, would you still just use an all primer for this coat?
I get ya. Cut edges r a pain. MR MDF is better. But you can use just about anything and work at edges to get them nice.. without the need for fine surface fillers in most cases.
You need them all. Future videos.. I think they're out later this in August and September tto. I'm using the QT5 on alcove cabinets and woodwork. As it has more control for fan pattern and paint flow while doing it.
Use a remote socket on an extension lead and put your turbine outside or in another room if you can. Plus you’re not sucking the overspray through your filters👍
Hi Phil I watch loads of your videos and tried to do a bit of painting myself but I’ve messed up big time and need some help. I had my living room plastered I gave it a mist coat had to sand down in a few places but done it too hard went back to plaster instead of spotting it with paint I used Zinsser guards like an idiot, it’s messed it all up flashing through the paint around the spots are building up and looks terrible and don’t have a clue what to do. Would I be able to get any advice from you please
@@ProfessionalPainterDecoratorI was told to paint all the walls with bin and put 2 top coats on. I’ve sanded it down now was a lot and is a big room so dust everywhere. I know you know your stuff mate so would like to know what you think
@@Michael-wc1co you've painted over the emulsion with Zinsser BIN (in the RED can)?? who told you to do that? Id of tried another coat of emulsion to start with, then re assesses the situation.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator yeah red can zinsser told me to I don’t trust what there saying. I’ve sanded the area’s going to give it another coat tomorrow. If that doesn’t work what would you suggest. It’s a 8m length room 3 meters wide, the spot priming with the guards is all over the ceilings and walls.
Both, I don't have a lot of experience spraying, I would like to say thanks for your time and effort you put in your videos. I did think you could spray most brands of emulsions, maybe I was wrong
@@mcvin8077 everything will spray, BUT, some paint will spray a lot easier than others. I've videos on ceiling paints that all spray well. Walls, you try it and if it needs some thinning you you add some water to help get a nice evn spray. Getting the correct spray tip for what you spray, also will be key. Watch a few more of my airless spray videos. What paint have you bought?
I've not bought any paint yet, I was just curious, I thought Phil would be the ask. Your videos have been great, taught me a lot about spraying, keep up the good work. Nick, Edinburgh
As a DIY'er with a lot to do, I'm looking to get one of the Quickshot Ultras in the next week having watched your videos, to paint all trim (sorry know you hate the word but it's so handy) as well as staircase spindles and doors. I wanted to use Scuff X but all my woodwork is Ral 9001 which I cant get mixed. The only paint I can find that I can spray and get mixed to Ral9001 is Johnston's Aqua Guard, but you don't like painting with that because of runs. Have you tried spraying with it? There are no videos spraying Aqua guard and the paint shed for some reason recommend not spraying it. What are your thoughts? Are you able to give it a test and see what you think? Thanks for the videos.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I'll look at those thanks :) Ral 9001 is typically called country cream and quite a light off white. Its often what door and window manufacturers provide as an alternative to white. I've just discovered that the Isomat you've used in this video can actually mix to RAL9001. Which do you find the most hardwearing for interior woodwork? Aqua Guard or Isomat Aqua? I think the Isomat Aqua can be used interior and exterior which makes spraying windows easier.
Sorry to butt in here but have you considered spraying tikurilla everall aqua in your chosen RAL colour? It's an absolute breeze to spray and flows out lovely, has a built in enamel aswell so after about a week or so it goes off nice and tough. Word of warning though, don't use it for handrails, it emulsifies like crazy!
@@AspireDecorating Not butting in, grateful for all guidance. Hadn't considered Tikurilla, don't know why, though your word of warning is relevant as the staircase has the handrail, so sounds like that might not be the best option. Maybe I should get a small can of a few and try them out. Just spent so many weeks on prep, really don't want to screw it up ;)
