How to Get Perfect Auto Body Panels - Block Sanding Primer Surfacer 

You're welcome Keith - I appreciate that :)

I appreciate that - nice to hear. Have a good weekend :)

Thanks for the kind words Hugh - have a good weekend :)

You're welcome - I like doing them - glad you appreciate them :)

I appreciate that - have a great week :)

Thanks - I appreciate that - glad you enjoy them :)

You're welcome - hope it helps out :)

Glad you enjoyed it - have a good weekend :)

Thanks - have a great weekend UPK - thanks for the support as always :)

@@LakesideAutobody have a great weekend Jerry!

I appreciate it - you'll get good - I promise :)

Glad you enjoy it - I appreciate the comment :)

Thank you very much - that's nice to hear. Glad you like them :)

Thank Patrick - you stay safe too - don't know what it was like before Covid anymore :)

Thanks UPK - glad you saw it. Every shop I've worked at frowned on putting filler on anything but bare metal. Sometimes you would get away with sneaking some filler over primer if your boss wasn't around. Just had to make sure you primed it quick to hide it. That's the truth too ... it was a sign you didn't know what you were doing :)

Thanks for the support - have a good weekend :)

Man... that's good to hear. I appreciate you letting me know and thanks for watching and the support. There's no better feeling than unmasking a paint job that just turned out really nice - fresh paint is beautiful!

I appreciate that - thanks. Have a good weekend :)

@@LakesideAutobody You have a great weekend too Jerry!

You're welcome David - thanks for the support :)

Glad to hear it Jon - have a good week :)

Thanks 👍

Thanks - got to get over to your channel - been real busy lately for some reason :)

Yes - credit goes to the old fellas I worked with. One of the most important lessons was when I was fiddling around with a panel trying to get it super close before filler. This guy was keeping an eye on me, got fed up, came over and said, "Hit it low and fill it with dough!" I know that sounds bad but high spots just can't be there.

Thanks again, I appreciate the support :)

How do you like those Jettas - I hear they're a great driver - like handles well and all. Have a good week end Snake :)

Thanks!

You're welcome Tory - good thing for RU-vid :)

@@LakesideAutobody and your content...on my second small bodywork job thanks to you. So far so good. Thanks

Thanks - have a great week :)

Thanks - I appreciate that. Keep watching, I promise you'll be fast, efficient and get your panels straight. I'll keep uploading different things that can help. Feel free to ask ?s - anything easy or not :)

@@LakesideAutobody you've actually answered a few questions. Thank you for all your help to this point. If I come up with anything else I will ask for sure.

Thanks - glad you subbed :)

Thanks for your comment Marcel. If you reduce the 2K a bit more, it should spray pretty nice. It will not sand as well as the lacquer primer surfacer though - just my opinion. Probably depends on the brand of 2K also though. Let me know how it goes for you my friend :) Also, lacquer primer won't shrink if you use it sparingly - the way it was meant to be used. You get in trouble if you bodywork is not straight and try to make up for it with extra primer coats. In that cas you should use the feather fill - then go to the lacquer primer. Jerry

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry. I'll try reducing the 2k next time. Maybe I'll try a little more pressure than what the can said too. It was my first time using it, so I'll spend a little more time, next time, dialing it in. It looks better now that it dried.

Yes, you'll want to primer those putty spots, block sand with some 240-320 and you're ready to paint. You could block those putty spots with 180-220, prime again, wet sand with 320-400 and paint too if that works better for you. Sort of depends on the problem spot I guess :)

Thanks - have a great week :)

Here it is - glad you liked the previous one :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dv1_xO3eoLM.html Here's the whole play list on that vehicle - start to finish: ru-vid.com/group/PLOP9eoG14-I8rZHw-umsgT2cn7gYbj0br

That's 'cause they've never worked in a body shop. You can actually use lacquer, urethane or poly for primer surfacers. All work great if used correctly. You will like lacquer primer the best though - promise. Dries the fastest, easiest to sand, no activator, don't have to throw out what you don't use, builds thickness fast, cheaper, works just as well even though folks will say otherwise. Here's a good video on all the types - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-I5RaAgbNOe0.html Here's some lacquer primer - www.tptools.com/Lacquer-Primers.html

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks Jerry, appreciate the link and comments. Love watching all of your video's. You have taught me mountains of information.

Normally if it's just a driver 240-320 on a DA. If it's got to be perfect then 400 wet sand by hand or rubber block.

Yes, I'm leaning on that edge that is entering the curve or concave shape. It's totally up to the individual though - if a round type block works for you or you want to try it - great. I might even get one in the future.

I just got two nice hook and loop blocks on amazon, they take 5 inch da paper, one is a mouse style and one is round, they have 6 inch also, dura gold sandpaper from there also, haven’t used them yet, trying to get most everything hook n loop, only 40-80 grit sticky now 😀🤘🏻

Yes - but you can also finish with lacquer primer or sealer then paint - your choice really.

No problem - check out this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-y05dNxt-nVc.html I would find a way to squirt some oil in there - if there are no hole to use drill an 1/8 hole in the jamb and squirt it through that. Like an oil pan - it's always greasy so it never rusts :)

You can spray lacquer primer over bar metal. You can also spray urethane primer and polyester primer over bare metal. Many primer surfacers say direct to metal or (DTM).

Thanks for the super quick reply back. Looks like lacquer primer may be the way to go for quick and cheap results. So this works under a base coat/clear coat with no problems?

@@ezelk1337 do not use lacquer primer over bare metal,it doesn't have the adhesion properties nor does most urethane primers..use an etch or epoxy as you were told

240 - 320 on a DA or 320 - 400 wet or dry sand. I rarely dry sand by hand though - only small spots. Also depends on how nice you want the job to come out. Finer grit for the nicer jobs, etc. Jerry

Great questions my friend. After you've block sanded and have it perfectly straight, you'll prime it again for "finish sanding" which is prepping for paint. There's tons of different ways to finish sand depending on how nice you want it. The nicest is to block sand (old school 5 inch rubber block) with wet sanding paper and 400 grit or finer (your choice) staying away from all body lines and very very lightly hitting all the lines by hand 400 or even much finer - finer paper doesn't knock the lines down to fast and is more forgiving. You can use a DA to finish sand to - like for daily drivers - stay away from edges and body lines - come back and get those by hand with 400 grit or scuff pads (red) Red scuff pads are great for body lines if you don't trust yourself too. They are very forgiving and don't mess up the line no matter how you use it. See this video for more on the topic - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Phd8cvKmapo.html Please feel free to ask more ?s if you need too - Jerry

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you so much for the advice! I was not kidding about being an artist either. One can't paint a portrait first nor do finished body work like a pro. lot of practice. So I'm practicing. I have a 71 Camaro that need rust repair behind the rear wheels down low. Working on that now and using your "repair sheet metal and body work by numbers". Just finished the inner structure. Now the outside skin...Yikes!

@@Danno74Z You'll do just fine - keep asking questions. Remember, you can't break what's already broken. BTW, the 71 Camaro has always been one of my favorite cars. You just can't beat that front end - awesome :)

You're right :)

20 or 22 is fine to use for patches on body panels - a little thicker for floor and trunk.

As long as the paint is in good condition they will work fine. Remember, scotch brite pads will not knock down any nibs or imperfections like dust, etc in the paint like sand paper does. Look over the panel real well, feel for nibs, dust, etc - if it's good - go ahead and use the red scuff pad :)

@@LakesideAutobody Thank you sir!

I don't think hot dog compressors are enough. I use a twin cylinder old craftsman 1hp, 20 gal, 110v, 6.4 SCFM at 40 psi, compressor. It's still small for what I'm doing - I do have to let it catch up when grinding large areas or sand blasting but that's about it. I will do a video on the smallest compressor that is really feasible to use soon. Ask again if that didn't help :)

Still 1.4 @ around 25 psi - relatively thick primer surfacer too. Pretty easy to clean too. I clean the end of the fluid needle, cap and fluid nozzle, cup/gun body with each use - don't take anything else apart.

You can paint of sanded primer or un-sanded primer. You don't have to seal :)

Bought one to do a video on but haven't done it yet. My thoughts are that I have to have something straight and true - don't want any flexing at all or it wont tell you the truth. I'll have to use it though first - seems like it would work good on large convex or concave old school fenders - good question - have a good weekend :)

@@LakesideAutobody you too and thanks for replying!

240 - 320 if using DA. Lot of shops choose 320 for DA. 400 if you wet or dry sand by hand. If that doesn't answer your ? ask again.

Yes

Yes - painting them. But it's par for the course - if you get any overspray it comes off real easy and fast with lacquer thinner. Your right though shouldn't be there - lazy sometimes.

I have not used it but I'm sure it would work fine. I'm pretty sure it's lacquer primer so it will dry fast and sand easy. Duplicolor paint is lacquer based, that's why I'm guessing its lacquer. Try a quart and see or even the spray bomb can - then you can buy the gallon. I'll work on doing a video on that - don't know when though.

@@LakesideAutobody thanks for the advice... you teaching me in every video. 👍

@@adanvaldcontreras4283 Hopefully there's a good tip or two in each video I upload for you. Glad you enjoy them :)

You're right - the straighter the filler the easier the rest of the job goes :)

@@LakesideAutobody appreciate your replies , any one who wants to learn , my man here and diy auto schooll aka my friend Pete, are all you need ….

@@lawncuttingplusdelta Thanks Paul - I appreciate the support - have a great week :)

You can use urethane, poly or lacquer primer surfacer. This was - Lacquer Primer Surfacer from Auto Body Master (Auto Value Store) w/ klean strip lacquer thinner.

@@LakesideAutobody ok so I took my panel down to medal I did my body filler now I can shoot whatever primer surfacer and then shoot my base coat?

@@LakesideAutobody so I can use any one of those primers I don't have to use them all in order. Like I don't have to lay down an epoxy primer and then a poly primer and then a urethane primer in that order? I can only shoot one let's say Polly primer and then base coat?

Same thing :)

@@LakesideAutobody Thanks, I'm trying to estimate materials to paint my car and didn't want to order WAY more than I need. lol This stuff ain't cheap! haha

@@jayinmi3706 The paint will be the most expensive part but if you go with TCP Global restoration shop paint you can save pretty good amount. Here's 2 jobs using it - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aJHa1grz5Fs.html & ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gIS1Tbv7Kvw.html All automotive primer surfacers work well so that will save you some money - find an inexpensive one you like and stick with it. Lacquer primer surfacer is the cheapest way to go but there is also urethane and polyester - poly is more for hiding poor body work though. Your choices come down to DTM Urethane and Lacquer primer surfacer really :)

@@LakesideAutobody So, I'm thinking I need a gallon of single stage paint, probably a gallon of surfacer (or a quart of surfacer and a gallon of sealer since there isn't a TON of body work to do on the car) and the appropriate reducers and hardeners. The car is a compact 2 door. Since it isn't an EXACT color match I'll probably do a color change. I expect I'll need to cut and buff it when I'm done, so should I get an extra quart of paint to be safe? I haven't found any videos yet that go over how much of each kind of product you need other than saying "a gallon should be fine, unless you have a truck" I appreciate the feedback.

@@jayinmi3706 You only need a gallon of paint but I usually keep extra reducer around incase it needs thinning. You'll be fine with a quart of primer surfacer as it needs to be thinned/reduced quite a bit. You'll end up with 1/2 gallon or more primer surfacer after thinning/reducing. You don't even need sealer actually. Sealer is a choice thing - some guys use it some don't :)

Most of the times, you have to sand it off. If you used lacquer primer, sometimes it will lift if sprayed over "newer" enamel or other non compatible paints. Best thing to do is sand it down and then start priming again with light coats first to build a base then you can go heavier. Or use a urethane primer surfacer. Ask more ?s if that doesn't help :)

@@LakesideAutobody I had it perfect I used to Rust-Oleum canned primer and I went to Walmart and get another can it says stop rust and it lift it l

@@LakesideAutobody does Rust-Oleum make two different primers and cans so that's what screwed me

@@ronnieyoung7510 I believe so. One is lacquer based or maybe even both are lacquer based I think. If you still want to use it, start with a super light coat let it dry a bit and then keep getting heavier so that it doesn't "soak" into the substrate or older paint.

@@ronnieyoung7510 Think of it this way - it's giving you great experience. You will learn great skills from this. Happened very often in the old days with lacquer and enamel. The rule of thumb is - you can put enamel over lacquer but not lacquer over enamel. You can always put lacquer over fully cured paints of any type - like old paint :)

Good question - Sealer is sort of a choice. Some folks like it and use it - some don't. I like it because it makes everything one color and it also fills any minor imperfections - like real minor. Also I feel comfortable that I "sealed" it - don't know if it will help - but I sealed it :)

I can tell you this from my experience from painting and doing Body Work sealer is more than just filling little tiny holes sealer is pretty much a primer surfacer really thinned out and usually it is a 2K they call it which is a urethane which I've also see it in polyester also and you're more high-end applications it Seals Everything if you got one part of the panel that was painted another part that was Primer where they join together when you put your top coat over it sometimes it can have a reaction so when you seal it and there's no reaction it's like a clear coat that goes over the actual old paint and new primer it's an extra layer of protection Plus it has a hardener in it know if your paint has a hardener to it then your paint is pretty much s e a l i n g the substrate surfaces but if you have no hardener or your base coat does not take a hardener or single stage or whatever you may be using then there's a good chance that can lift graze or have an issue so that's why most painters special at big shops Troy coat of sealer on a car when they had prior body work or paint and they're just priming it and sealing it or they're just sealing it and painting it so that's a definition of a sealer Seals Everything off and I actually prefer using a waterborne sealer pure water based you never have no lifting

Years back I work at a Dodge dealership on the neons they use sealer on them in in a lot you could take the paint and peel it right off by hand they had a big comeback on that

I used to do that with the wax and grease remover - worked real well - creates a shine so you can see any waves. Good suggestion :)

the hard part is dealing with bodyshop managers and the painter not good enough [ EGO TRIPPS ] REALLY

@@dingbatdumbbodyman131 You're right - sometimes that is the case - have a good week :)

You could but to get things straight you want to always "cut" through instead of "ride" over and with finer grits you tend to ride over because it quickly gets clogged. After you get it straight you can then freely move to any grit you want :)

Are you saying you like to block sand heavy, thick primer surfacer with 400?

A very light coat will not clog the paper. That's how it was done for years before some company said, "Hey - I'll bet some body shops would pay more if we called the spray bomb can of black paint GUIDE COAT" - just like selling water. If you listen to the older fellas you can still do bodywork at a reasonable price :)

@@LakesideAutobody Here I go with a fuzzy memory recollection. I thought I've seen some kinda substance that kinda would be like rubbing charcoal on it, or chalk dust to avoid that wetness issue and you don't have to wait for it to dry (not that a spritz of paint takes long).

@@MrTheHillfolk They do make what you are talking about - 3M Dry Guide Coat Kit 05861, Carbon Black Powder - thanks Mr H

​@@LakesideAutobody thanks for this informative video I will probably end up painting my own car,as the local bodyshops all seems to have closed down, and it's only the ones that give kick backs to the insurance companies that stay in business I will probably only paint one section at a time to make it more manageable Luckily it's an ancient car so plenty of break lines

OK - maybe I'll talk between sanding - safety is good really :)

Sorry - you can block huge rough panels with anything from 80 to start with and then 120-180 to end with. Nice straight small spots can be blocked w/ 120-180 - your choice. Then prime again and finish sand with 400 wet or 240-320 DA

Ok thanks great videos