I don't care for much movement on my brake levers about 1/2 compression to fully break I have them facing downward with your arm is how I run mine love the show keep up the awesome content your friend Keith from Asheville North Carolina
I'm using the MT5 with organic performance pads on my big and enduro bike. I love that they are nearly free of fading (except when the pads are down to zero ^^ ) My levers are pointed fairly down, as it fits the position of my hands on the grips (straight forearm at highspeed and/steeps). The contact point is at 3cm of the bars, which makes them be parallel to the grips (most leverage power). Tipp for every Magura user: don't buy cheap pads, wear them in properly and brake them dry after washing your bike (just fading, no locking!). This way the pads stay the most reliable and last the longest ^_^
I try to keep mine inline with forearm with index finger on lever at all times. Like the lever to be very stiff with no play. Also keep the entire assembly slightly loose on bar so it can move in crash. Love my XT stoppers. Better than those on my motorcycle.
Loved Avid brakes. Nothing makes riding more exciting than knowing you have really bad brakes that work half the time. Question: Can there be any difference in performance between same size discs (disc itself only), eg. cheaper vs more expensive? Should disc be upgraded or just focus on upgrading the caliber?
TomaCukor there’s definitely a difference. Rotors come in different materials, thickness, shape, slotting, size etc. and some last much longer than others.
Shimano XT/XTR, metal finned Ice-tech pads and Ice-tech rotors. Choose 2 or 4 piston and rotor size based on the power you need. Saint/Zee if you ride DH. Done.
9:45 Thank you. You answered why I was getting numbness in my hands. I adjusted the levers and it's gone. In my case the levers were too close to the grips and also too high. Brilliant, thanks.
12 years ago my first proper mtb had Magura Louise BAT brakes on it. For 12 years, after owning almost everything out there, those were up to date the very best brakes i ever had. Now i just bought a new bike that came with Magura MT5s on it. And now these are the best brakes ive ever had. The bite, quality, heat resistance, modulation, ergonomics, weight and price of these brakes is just simply unbeatable....i saw the results of a heat-failure lab test, the Maguras and the Trickstuff brakes were the only ones that never failed under heat. The had the most bite of them all, and in case of the Magura they were even the lightest and cheapest brakes on test. Best brakes ever, thanks Magura for making high-value stuff for our money..
I absolutely love my Magura MT7s. I 'ended up' a pair because they were on an e-mtb that I bought as a 'demo' from the guy who imported Bosch e-mtb systems and Magura into Australia in 2016...amazing brakes... I've been spoilt...big time!
You can address carpal tunnel issues a little by stretching. As a long-time cyclist and motorcyclist, I learned a good stretching technique which is really simple. You put you hands together pointed straight up (like you are praying), and push your wrists downward until you feel your carpal tendons stretch. You then do the opposite, putting the tops of your hands together and pull your wrists upwards and stretch the opposite tendons. This works very well, and can limit the potential for Carpal Tunnel Syndrome.
I’m no expert but I’ve been learning from the young guns here in NZ, they have the current skills and thinking. Brake lever positioning are best set for compliance in the attack position, quite vertical. Just watch the latest DH and Enduro racing. They tend not to hang over the back of the so much as in the past.. A strong low attack position provides more control (speed).
I normally start at 50 degrees and move it from there, right now i have it at around 60 degrees or so for dh, perfect mix between steep and the more attack position
I've got some Magura MT6's. I like them, even though can be tricky to bleed properly. I just wish spare parts for Magura weren't so expensive. If I want to shorten my levers it will cost me $140...JUST FOR A PAIR OF ONE-FINGER LEVERS.
Yo Doddy, lovely work dude. Hey try to avoid touching the nozzle of the thread locker to the thread as it can start the compound in the bottle curing and clog up the nozzle. Cheers!
I went through a couple of brakes the last 6 years. I started with a Hayes so1e 160/160mm 😂 which was totally garbage. Then I switched to the other extreme, a Avid Code R 200/200mm which was a bit too optimistic 😅 Now I'm on the Magura MT Trail 203/180mm and they seem to be just right. Perfect modulation but still strong enough to throw you over the bars. Only the Storm HC rotors seem to make weird noises sometimes...I might switch back to my SRAM Centerline Discs.
Very good video, excellent information. If I may, I do have a correction, and I'd like to add this comment just for accuracy. Carpal tunnel syndrome affects the median nerve. Numbness in the thumb, index, middle, and half of the ring finger. Likewise, the ulnar nerve controls feeling in the little finger, and half the ring finger. The half ring seems odd, but may help identify a potential problem. The reason I point this out is because the first time I noticed that only half of my ring finger was numb. The concern I had that the numbness was only affecting half of my finger was greater than my concern about the numbness. Thanks for the video.
it depends, if you are sitting on your saddle then the rear brake is responsible for the majority of braking but if you are standing up and slightly forwards then its the front one. I think Doddy is correct because this is gMBn
Approximately 60% to 80% of braking forces (torque) are generated from the front braking systems. (Variables included number of wheels, wheelbase, weight, etc) As a vehicle moves forward and you apply the brakes, the center of gravity of the vehicle effectively shifts the 'load' forward. (this is known as weight transfer or more appropriately Load Transfer) This places more load and more momentum on the front tire(s). The front tire(s) therefore can handle the increased friction (traction), and can accept more braking force to stop the vehicle.
I've had seal leakage issues on Maguras (and friends report it as well) that I have never had on SRAM, Shimano or Formulas. and yes I currently own at least one of each.
I've also had these Problems that I never had with my Shimano Saints. The Saints and the Codes work just so much. Everyone might think, that the Maguras are good and cheap, but they are just shit.
This might be a an advert, but I have two All-Mountain / Enduro bikes, one with Magura MT5 and one with a similar Shimano system. Price wise they are very close but perfomance/brake power dosing and durability on the Magura brakes feel so much better.
I just bought the aluminium version of the bike in the video. The canyon spectral al 6.0. It's such a nice bike and the four piston brakes really come in handy - I really notice them now I've seen this video!
It's more than a good idea to use threadlocker on your disc bolts. I installed a new brake disc and failed to do so when I reused my old bolts (It was my first, cheap mtb with disc brakes) and spent the day bombing hills, we got to the top of a very steep hill on route to a new trail (Easily 30 mph going down it, oncoming traffic on the other side of the road) and when I pressed my brakes I could still rock my bike back and forward. Checked my disc, turns out 4 of my bolts had fallen out and 2 were hanging on by 2-3 threads max, I don't wanna know what'd have happened if we didn't stop that day.
7:26 I find doing the bolts to the correct torque is more important. I've never used thread lock but I always torque to spec and I have never had a problem.
@Rab. C. Nesbitt Most rotors have it laser etched on to them. They would also be in the installation manual on the manufacturers website. But as rule aim for 5nM and you should be ok
@Rab. C. Nesbitt sram has manuals for everything on its site. Discs have torque stamped on them usually. Brake lever clamp 2.8-3.4Nm. Mmx (shifter) 1-2Nm. Caliper bolts 9.5Nm, banjo bolt 5Nm. Thats for sram guides
I know this seems way overkill for my XC Giant XCT 29er, but I put Shimano XT I-speb B with simi-metalic pads with 180mm ice tech rotors. Just because I have neurological problems this set up actually helps me greatly with modulation. They are really sensitive, but that works for me and I don't have lock up issues, but it a panic stop (which happened when an idiot literally jumped in front of me) they work absolutely incredible. I think brakes are really subjective in terms of parts. Do your homework and know your parts, try different manufacturers, there is always the Shimano, Sram preference between people right! I've actually been wanting to switch to Magura brakes, but it's just a financial thing for me! Great video, cheers!
No such thing as overkill for brakes, my friend. They should be set up in whatever way it takes for you to have both comfort and peace of mind while riding :)
@@Phaethon666 lol you should hear how much grief I get for my brakes being over powered for an XC bike , even my 17 year old son says there too much, but I never have lock up, skidding issues. They work well as one finger use for me!
When I fitted Guide RSCs to my 26, it took me ages to get them set up as there was so much choice for setting them up. Daddy is right, take the time to adjust experiment and try different set ups, before long you will find what suits and they do feel amazing when you get it right. Cool video Cheers.
Something try to install a MDR-P 220mm magura disk on Rockshox Recon RL with only QM-45 adaptor (with 4 piston magura breaks) ? I need to add a standard adaptor " 2 adaptor to fit" Thanks for your comments help?
I much prefer brake levels well away from my bars so my finger is quite long. I find I get much less arm pump as less muscles are used for the short movement compared to long. This is similar to Barrelli who has discussed brake lever angle and reach. Each to their own. Try both style and compare to be sure.
Hi, great video. those tools (ability to customize brakes with different parts) were always there, but this video bring some light. bigger disks dissipate better but will break more. you need more strength to open a door near the axle than near the handle! so bigger disks break more, dissipate better and are heavier.
Great feel on Magura Mt5 / MT7, but the online complains about levers being made of butter proved true for me, with lever body cracking after a very mild crash. Will be replacing with shimano XT lever..
Did you tighten it down properly? Half of the time people just tighten it to what they think is good and move on since that's what they do with aluminum levers, it needs to be done properly
My trials brakes (prepare to cringe): Front: Formula Cura 4, semi metallic pads, generic G3 style 203mm rotor, Redline Likewater suspension fluid (warranty voided) Rear: Echo TR Hydraulic Rim Brake, red trial-compound pads spaced about 3mm from rim, Redline Likewater suspension fluid, rear rim contact surface is coated with an equal parts mixture of J-B Weld original two-part epoxy & Valspar’s Anti-Skid floor texture additive (mixed, applied with a brush, and allowed to dry into an almost skateboard-griptape-like coating)
Thanks for the video, great detail. So close to motorcycles and their design. When you mention about front and back rotors different as I understand that 75 percent of the braking is from the front and less on the rear performance. Good tips on the brake set up on the handlebars thanks. I made a video about the different fixing on centre lock rotors as I had Sram and was sold Shimano. I hope you also have a video talking about this. Thanks for a great video.
I was too distressed by the 3 T handled torque wrenches over on the left. I could accept that 1 was missing as he had just used it. But the top one was facing a different way to the others. Only a savage would hang it the wrong way
Am I braking wrong? I hear all this take about doing most of the braking using the front brake. I brake alot more with the rear and only use the front when I want to slow myself alot more. So why would I want to go for a brake with worse heat dissipation on the rear if the rear is what I use most often?
Heat becomes an issue mainly through intensive use so mainly when you're using the front and it also goes through the most force because it can do upto 90% of all the braking power
Hey love the video! Only thing i wish there was would be a guide to all the different numbers/letters when looking at brakes online. There's a lot of information and its not so obvious for us beginners. For example: Shimano SLX M7120 4 Piston Disc 203/F and 180/R SM-RT-66 rotor.
Hi Doddy, if someone want to know about the "How" .. you nailed the subject right on the head :-) As you mentioned, riders have to tune their braking units to the feeling they want when using them. I ended up upgrading from mechanic to hydraulic (2 pistons) and different size of rotors 203 ice teck front .. 160 (180 to be on the rear) very happy with these mods .. love the feeling when i need to brake quickly. :-) Very good advice .. Cheers !!!
Except for their stopping power, there is nothing at all to like about these overly complicated disc brakes. Going by all the videos I've seen, you really have to know what you're doing with disc systems. I was perfectly happy with the older, traditional V- brake system. Replacing brake pads was a snap (30 seconds or less), and adjustments were just as simple. I want to ride my bike, but I don't want it to be a chore or a bore.
I my be old fashion but I love Shimano brakes just got deore 6000 and I love the look and feel and love your show all the best for everyone in gmbn ,😃👍
Thanks doddy....... great vid and wow man you can talk and I love listening to you its like listening to classical fm on a Sunday afternoon eating egg mayo sandwiches 🤘🏻 Great tips n awesome info the factors that go into choosing the right brakes n Im now after thirty years of riding only just finding my true riding style n brake position for my enduro riding up in the peaks 🤘🏻🤘🏻😎😎
Hi Doddy, I have always tight the screws on my bar by hand. But i have to work more seriously on my bike so I buy a torque tool, and when I use this tool with the right torque (from sram manual) for tight the brake lever on my bar, the screw damage the hole of my shifter.. so be aware that these part of the bike is in a light metal like aluminium and it’s easy to destroy it! I had to change the shifter.. and now i tight it by hand.. too scare to do this again 😕
The shifter attaches to brake clamp with different screw! Tightening brake to bar isnt ur shifter screw. The brake lever clamp is 2.8-3.4nm, but the shifter bracket screw.is only 1 - 2nm. Lower than most torque wrenches mtbr's have would go. So probably you used brake clamp torque 3.4nm on shifter screw 1nm!
Rupert Wenn i was tightening the shifter on the brake clamp with 2nm torque but it was visibly too much for my shifter (2nm is the torque that I find in the Sram manual of my shifter) I use the second hole now because I don’t want to spend 100€ for replace the shifter. 😔
I really enjoyed this and felt I learned a lot, especially as my job for today is fitting new brakes to my trail bike and moving the old ones to my hardtail. I had never considered Magura brakes before, but they seem to have a good range.
Best Brakes for me: Formula! Best BrakePads: DiscoBrakes Ceramic Pro! And because iam daily driving On Street. I get best Brakepower to the Ground with the Maxxis RE-Fuse 27,5 x 2.0 Version. Have a great Day =)
So, I think on longer rides I'm getting the ulnar nerve numbness. Is there a specific direction I should roll my bars to alleviate that? Thank you for making these great videos!
Can anyone help me with this problem I'm having with my brakes.. After a long ride in very wet conditions, I got home and rinsed my bike off. The next day when I wanted to do a full clean I noticed my rear brake lever was not returning and the pistons were pushed out so that the wheel wasn't spinning. I took the wheel off, pushed the pistons back in and replaced the pads. When I put the wheel back on, the brake lever went all the way to the handlebars and the pistons don't push out and the lever doesn't work at all. I have Shimano M500 brake levers and the brake is Shimano MT-500.
@@ohhshako5278 hey thanks for the reply but I already tried that. Rebled the brakes and the lever is still going down to the handlebars and the pistons won't come out. It was also more difficult than usual to push the oil through the system using the syringe. Anyone have any idea what's going on? Broken lever?
@@kfkosz ... sounds like a failed master cylinder... possibly a simply O-ring (that has very specific dimensions and tolerances)... I have rebuilt them, yet I am currently in the fortunate position to just swap out with another set, and not get my hands as dirty...
@@NoFretBrettCSSMBFF thanks for the reply. You are probably right. I don't really know how to fix the master cylinder. The o-ring seemed to be ok. But anyways, I just ordered a brand new brake lever and replacing it proved to solve the problem.
Great video! do you have any recommendations for brake replacements for a cheaper bike? I bought a 29er hardtail and adjusted the stock brakes. they are still no good. Looking to get some new brakes for a budget ($60 or less)
Try *Ergon Grips* ... they may look weird to some people, but the *LARGER Contoured Grip Area* distributes the vibration and 'impacts' to a Larger Surface AREA (instead of a thin line of 'tubular' grips that Do NOT Support the 'Heal' of your hand)... also, the WIDER END of the grip allows for a lighter 'Grasp' of the Grip, allowing a more relaxed forearm without the fear of 'slipping off the end'... I use the Large size, for slightly more surface area, but have a few small sizes on some of my less aggressive Bicycles... Also, once you have your most ideal Grip, you may still have to 'play with' Handlebars (Width, Reach, Angle, Height, etc.)... Ask among your Riding buddies (or LBS group rides or MeetUp or FB 'events') to try their bikes if they have different bar arrangements, or ask if they have extra bars to swap out, or buy used/new until you find YOUR Ideal Reach/Sweep/Height/Angle/etc... Yet, I believe, *excellent grips are* the most logical *first step* in the process... There are some other similar Grips from Bontrager and other manufacturers that also work well, and many that do not feel nearly as nice... my no-brainer GoTo Grip is Large Ergon GP1... www.google.com/search?client=ms-android-tmus-us-revc&ei=tqjvXMimNa2Hggeyo58g&q=Ergon+Grips+GP1&oq=Ergon+Grips+GP1&gs_l=mobile-gws-wiz-serp.12..35i39j0j0i22i30l6.18092.18092..20348...0.0..0.161.161.0j1......0....1.........0i71.ELLf-v2o-r0 Some people like ESI Silicone or LizardSkinz Grips, and they are way grippier and cushier than typical grips... but the LARGER the Surface Area to distribute the 'loads', the longer and more relaxed your Rides can be... 33+mile MountainBike Rides, 111+mile GravelGrinders, 200+mile RoadRides... (Yes, I have tested many other Grips... (and Saddles and Pedals and Handlebars and SeatPosts and Bicycles and Tires and Wheels and...)) HandleBARS (Height/Reach/Sweep/Angle/Flex/Damping/etc.) would be the next step, if the Grips do not resolve your issue... Suspension Stem or Forks might be the next consideration... It would be easier to help you if I knew more about; YOU, Your Bike, Your particular situation, your riding style and environs, etc... (I just started with the default checklist for best resolution sequence...)
Wow thank you so much for your very in depth reply 👍 I tend to mostly get tingling fingers and numbness on bike parks when I’m on the brake a lot . I ride a trek fuel ex-8 which is getting quite old now and I’ve noticed that my friends newer bikes have much more supple front forks which might be a factor . I will defo check out the grips . I’ve taken the factory bars and stem off the trek and put a Easton 35 bar on and shortened the stem from 90mm to 40mm ? Might also have something to do with the reach I’ve changed . Thanks again for your reply very helpful 👍
Hello guys😊. By any chance somebody knows where can I buy some 220mm rotor adapters for my maguras MT7? I have been looking for some to buy on Amazon, Ebay, Ali Express exet and I haven't have no luck. Thanks
They’re pretty good compared to most v brakes; but there were better brands back then. I went with ProShifts on my 90s XC race bike. They’re still excellent for v brakes.
#gmbntech what is the best lube to use for your chain? I normally use the Rock 'n' Roll lube for my chain. But would wax would be better? I normally wash my bike on a Sunday as I use it to commute to work (14 km a day). I thoroughly clean my drive train and use the Rock 'n' Roll lube.
This depends on the area you are riding and what the weather is like. A dry wax lube is better in dusty situations and a wet lube is better in wet weather. If you do use a dry/wax lube it's best to completely degrease the drivetrain to help it stay on for longer.
@@gmbntech I live in Newcastle NSW (a suburb in Australia). It's autumn right now going into winter (winter is coming lol). We get the occasional rain here and there. I always remove my chain and degrease it every time I wash my bike on Sundays. I will stick with the current lube (Rock 'n Roll Gold) I use for now as it is easier to degrease than using wax. Thank you for the answer, much appreciated. Love the show by the way.
No, you can just switch the pads over and bed them in. 👍*Check the rotor is compatible as some are not rated for metal/metallic pads and this can prematurely wear the rotor.
@@gmbntech thats not necessarily correct. Shimano rotors are often 'organic only'. It could be dangerous actually using metallic pads on organic only discs! Lets hope kl sees these corrections and checks their disc type!
I have a Magura MT5 and makes a lot of noise. But it doesn’t seem to be a Problem which only I have. Riders like Fabio Wibmer seem to have the same Problem an I'm pretty sure their brakes are perfectly maintained. You can hear it in a lot of videos from him.
Long time magura user here..yes this can be very common.. the best way I found to solve this is by using 'ceramic pro' compound pads off of discobrakes.com. they completely stopped the noise, Even in the wet and snow.
@@hannoschmidt8181 my friend has the Danny Mack version of the mt7, he had the same issue. Tryed multiple pads from both mt5 and mt7..and when I suggested this to him they worked a charm.. great pad too.nice stopping power.and half the price of standard pads. Hope it works for you too👍
@@hannoschmidt8181 Hi Hanno, auf welche Bremsscheiben hast du gewechselt ? Meine MT5 schleift ständig das nervt echt. Obwohl sie im Stand bzw auf dem Montagestänge schleifrei ist, kommt trotzdem während der Fahrt das schelifen/klingeln zurück.
i have shimano xt brakes and i have the metallic ice tech pads on the front and they suck. the front brake feels like a broken cheap mechanical rim brake. (203mm rt76 rotor) too much noise but no braking. on the rear i have shimanos cheapest pads that they make and they are really good. they last semi long, they are cheap (5€ for a pack) and they are really powerful (180mm rt76 rotor)
Metal pads need to heat up first...especially ice tech. Unless ur doing continual long descents, you fronts wont ever heat up enough to work well! Swap ur pads out, keep ice techs for an Alps trip. Could also be front pads/rotors contaminated. Even touching with ur bare hand can do this.
@@rupedog im guessing they are contaminated because the noise goes away when they are hot but it still has no power. only time it has really good power is when the brake is wet
Shimano’s cheap stuff is so good right now at the end of 2019... that by mid 2020 they’ll quit making it. Seriously, they’re 4-piston SLX models, MT420, and MT520 are fantastic. If word of mouth spreads they’ll end those lines and XT will be the entry.
i own mt7s. everyone who touches them says theyre the best theyve ever touched. i have them on a street trails bike and ill tell you that these are a bad investment for trials. they probably work well for mtb but i dont know how danny uses these. i have the masters blow frequently. Every 3 months i email magura and pull on my lever. On a fresh bleed it slowly pulls all the way back and i send them a video and they send me a new one. This isnt a knock on them as a company but it shows that i go through the life cycle of the brakes in 6 months. i think theyre sticking with the carbotexture because its cheap and easy to mold. i think they expect any serious rider to go trough a pair of the masters during the five year warranty. but that doesnt matter because they can keep pressing them out. magura has been very good to me but ive realized that at 6 brakes in 18 months Im probably allowed to warn people about paying 600$ to get brakes like these. for a price guide 2 mt7s on ebay 400$ shipped if you go cheap 2 1.8 mm rotors because non magura ones wont fit well 50$ 2 hc3 levers because the standards feel bleh 160$ these arent cheap and once you buy in you wont want to switch. not that there is really a better brake
Bought the new GT avalanche elite 2021 the disc brake need sorting out because it's awful. It make this horrible squeaky noise front and back also it doesn't stop the bike when I want it to. Stupidly I sprayed the discs and the rest with wd40 since then I have this problem
