How to Glass Bed Your Rifle Action (Part 1) 

The purpose of bedding an action to a stock is to prevent movement between the two during the firing the rifle. The part of the design that prevents movement rearward is the recoil lug. All one needs is a really good fit at the recoil lug and the notch in the stock for the recoil lug. I use JB Marine epoxy and push the action forward then tighten the mounting screws just past snug then let the rifle sit over night. I consistently get sub 1/4 MOA @ 100 yds. (dimes at 100 yards to holes touching)

The music is so annoying it makes this almost unwatchable. What were you thinking ?

I want to thank you for saving me from a WHOLE LOT of Dremel work! Everybody else said to let it set 24 hours. As soon as it firmed up, I pulled it apart & cleaned up excess epoxy with a pocket knife. May still need a little touch up, but should be VERY little. Thanks for making my first bedding job a success!

JB weld 8281 that's what I use! Works Like a champ 🏆 💪 👌 😎 👏

Please do a video on pillow and glass bedding a Sako 75 and 85 thanks

For the love of Pete, chop the ends of the Popsicle sticks off flat, using a chisel. They'll work much, much better!

i would have put clay in the chamber and on the feed ramp....i really dont trust just wax there...and why didnt you tape any of the lug...like the front and sides....p.s. ALWAYS put release agent on every screw, even if it dont go in while the bedding action process is going on.... just in case you pick up the wrong screw.

2:04 music sucks I'm out of here

Can you use that stuff on a cheap axis stock

I was not listening to the music so no complaints there, did you use the glass to pillar bed screws?

Background noise is not needed,voices interfere with message,reduces your effectivness

I noticed the paste wax your using is in a black and green can, The only paste wax i can find is Johnsons paste wax in the yellow ans red can, is there an difference in the two?

Removing the right amount of wood from the inside stock and then adding the right amount of glass may be the tricky part. How much wood is removed ?

Just like painting, isn't PREP work the key to the job? So, why would you make a video that refers to prep work, then fast-forwards us through all of it, with no explanations or descriptions of anything you're doing? And what is up with people who make videos of interesting stuff, then ruin it with annoying background music? We want to hear what you have to say, not listen to your music.

I remember my first time too.

could you turn the radio off or whatever that obnoxious noise is? thanks

music sucks

Just did my ruger 77 used less than half what u mixed

Can you please tell me why no one covers the ejection port and magazine port and inside the receiver ? My grandfather taught me plaster the inside of the action, so just a little confused.

Waist of glass mixed way more than needed

The music is terrible and completely unnecessary. That being said, great info and techniques:)

why the hell did he mix so much material and its a bedding job you dont need to do all along the sides

That's a lot of bedding squeezed in the chamber ...

Celaphane may work good for laying barrel in compound should not adhear to compound and you wouldnt have to clean all that greasy wax off?

I actually liked the music . Good video

The music overrides the content and it makes the info almost confusing ☹️🙁☹️🙁

I can't find part #3.

You got enough for 4 guns

A perfectly well-done demonstration of glass bedding your rifle but completely annihilated by music. Can't watch anymore.

That music was seriously blowin me out. Very odd lol

you just added stress to the action by tightening the screws

The music is horrible ..... why ?

The music is soooooo bad I stopped watching this video

Very cool and informative..........but the music.....yuck.

I couldn’t believe how bad this music was

Chocolate pudding will make your rifle shoot more accurate

That was a mess!

All that tape is totally unnecessary. That is a sure sign of an amateur bedding job. Another sign is how much epoxy you mixed up. What a waste!!! You mixed up enough to bed 4 rifles!! You should also use inletting screws, when glass bedding a Winchester model 70. Otherwise you get a lot of epoxy going into the chamber area of the rifle. This is a great video on what not to do. Thanks!!!

The music is much too distracting, and the weird voices over James talking furring the prep??? I couldn't get past the music, sorry.

Music Sucks as well as the video

I feel like Ive just been programed thru MKultra

Sorry, but the moment when I saw you scraping out the bedding compound that had seeped into the action's magazine well I knew not to use this clip or listen to you for instruction on how to bed a rifle. The proper way would have been filling the magazine well and any other areas of the rifle that you don't want the bedding compound to potentially get into with plumber putty or modeling clay before you attached the action to the stock. Also, using the screws to attach the stock to the action with so much bedding compound all over the place? Real bad idea. Even if you applied release agent on the screw's thread if enough compound got on the screw or into the screw hole your looking at a serious problem later when you try to remove the screws.

If the "prep" (after "relieving" the stock that may or may not need "relieving" period and is STILL going to contact the RECEIVER no matter what you do to FLOAT THE BARREL) and "cleanup" are 90% of the labor and bill and the "gunsmith" ends up wasting more materials than go into the bedding, there's a good chance the "bedding" job is being done by the hour and not by the job. And there's a good chance any "gunsmith" who says "anything you want to use that "works" well for you is just as good as everything else" probably learned everything he knows through an "apprenticeship" type of "training". Which is VERY useful for turning bad habits and incorrect "knowledge" into "standard procedure" and "common sense" in a "trade" like gunsmithing where the REAL MONEY is made "fixing" problems that aren't REALLY problems in the sense that the gun has "failed" to do anything but live up to the expectations of the customer who is about as "qualified" to determine if a gun is "broken" or "failed" as the average car owner is to do anything but turn the key, start the engine and put the car in gear. In the OTHER "technical trades" we start by VERIFYING THE "COMPLAIN" IS AN ACTUAL PROBLEM WITH THE MACHINE. If your "gunsmith" just takes your word for it that your gun "won't shoot" and doesn't VERIFY its ACCURACY/PRECISION BEFORE HE OR SHE "ACCURIZES" IT, how in the HELL is he or she going to be able to compare the BASELINE ACCURACY/PRECISION to POST-WORK ACCURACY/PRECISION FROM TEST-FIRING AFTERWARD AND HAND YOU A GUN THAT REALLY DOES "SHOOT" WITH THE BILL FOR THE WORK? EVERY "MECHANIC" FROM HVAC GUYS TO APPLIANCE REPAIRMEN TO AUTOMOTIVE MECHANICS FROM TIME TO TIME HAS TO TELL THE CUSTOMER THAT THE REAL "PROBLEM" IS "OPERATOR ERROR". If a customer is EDUCATED by a PROFESSIONAL after that professional VERIFIES THE PROBLEM OR LACK THEREOF AND THE PROBLEM IS THAT THE CUSTOMER ISN'T USING THE MACHINE "CORRECTLY" TO ACHIEVE BEST RESULTS FROM IT, THE "MECHANIC" IS STILL SOLVING THE "PROBLEM" BY TALKING TO THE CUSTOMER AND THAT'S THE ONLY WAY TO SOLVE THAT KIND OF "PROBLEM". There is NO AMOUNT OF "ACCURIZING" THAT CAN BE DONE TO A RIFLE THAT IS GOING TO TURN A HALF-BLIND/UNCOORDINATED/INEXPERIENCED/NERVOUS/STRESSED/CARELESS/PRE-OCCUPIED "SHOOTER" INTO A "MARKSMAN" ANY MORE THAN PUTTING A "RACING ENGINE" AND "RACING TRANS" AND TUBS, A LOCKER AND SLICKS IN A GROCERY GETTER GRANDMA CAR IS GOING TO TURN GRANDMA INTO JOHN FORCE. NEITHER WILL SELLING GRANDMA A RETIRED FUNNY CAR FROM JOHN FORCE RACING. If you can't walk out of a "gunsmith's" shop "knowing" your gun is "shooting" and don't have that confidence leaving, is it EVER going to "shoot" for YOU no matter what the bill is? There's a REASON most "competitive" shooters in "serious" competition have at least a BASIC "gunsmithing" background or at least the ability to know when a "problem" is THEM and not the GUN. And "problems" with accuracy/precision that just "show up" out of the blue are RARELY "gun problems". Guns, like ALL machines tend to either "work fine" or be "fucked up" and there will be PLENTY of indications its the GUN that has the problem if the "shooter" pays attention to how the gun FEELS and SOUNDS and how the empty CASES look and how the GUN looks "inside". An engine spins bearings due to lack of quality and/or quantity of lubrication. Period. And QUANTITY is far more important than QUALITY. OIL NEVER "WEARS OUT". ITS "OILY" FOREVER. When the OIL LEVEL gets low and oil pressure drops and there's insufficient lubrication "capacity" at the bearings, metal rubs on metal and the bearing gets "welded" to the journal and spins in the block or rod. Any "thrown rod" that's actually thrown is due to "big-end" failure. If the big end come off the crank, 99% of the time its a lack of lube IF the engine RAN MORE THAN 5 MINUTES AFTER BEING ASSEMBLED. So a KNOCK or THROWN ROD isn't the PROBLEM. The PROBLEM is a lack of lubrication and THAT can be due to a sudden leak but more often than not is due to the operator not checking the oil. So-called "idiot lights" are only useful IF you immediately turn off the engine when the light comes on and even by then its probably too late. They're mainly there as "replacements" for checking the oil frequently. They come on at key on, stay on til there's oil pressure and don't come on unless pressure is FALLING with the engine running. Its already too late when that happens and the engines coming apart one way or another. Before that occurs the engine will be "making metal" and the oil is probably being overheated. A few seconds of engine operation with the "idiot light" lit won't cook all the oil or fill it with super-fine particles of metal that look like "glitter" in the remaining oil. How the engine looks INSIDE tells a smart, professional mechanic what the actual deal is. And to COVER YOUR ASS if for no other reason, you make sure to document "random" and "unexplained" failures in a write-up and mention "low oil level" and if you're SMART you just "insult" the customer by telling them the problem is their fault for not operating the vehicle correctly. When a "shooter" suddenly has a gun that "won't shoot" the problem almost certainly isn't the "gun". Check the "optic". If a "factory" rifle is almost BRAND-NEW (any rifle that doesn't show some minor scuffs, scratches, wear and other "battle scars" and is in "mint" condition that "won't shoot" probably HASN'T "shot" since BRAND-NEW even though the "shooter" might only have decided its the rifle after trying "everything else". Which won't have included handing the rifle to somebody else and letting him or her shoot a few groups with it. There are two types of "good shooters". Those who are "good" in their own opinions who use/used "shooting aids" like benches, bags, bipods, rests, optics and big "budgets" to get "good" at "shooting" by minimizing their own contribution to it and "buying" results. And those who are "good" in the opinion of other "shooters" who respect their ability and experience and skill and may KNOW they're "good" themselves but are NEVER "good enough" and who have gotten as "good" as they are by shooting anything and everything they could at ever opportunity, shoot for FUN FIRST, have a passion not only for "shooting" but guns as well as other "machinery" and are "mechanically-inclined" enough to know that machines don't "fail" humans. Humans "fail" machines. Whether when designing them, building them, using them, servicing them, etc. And even then its rarely a "systemic" problem where a SINGLE PART is the CAUSE OF THE FAILURE ALL BY ITSELF. A BARREL will get "shot out" but that's not FAILURE. That's normal wear. A STOCK can't "fail" unless its broken and renders the gun useless. And a STOCK ALONE isn't going to "go bad" and cause "problems" with accuracy and precision that are CONSISTENT across a RANGE of shooting situations, ammunition, etc. GLASS BEDDING, as it USED to be known before "gunsmiths" without the time/money to buy a quality, made-to-order and "expensive" product like ACRA-GLAS and/or "gunsmith schools/instructors" too cheap or broke to buy same for students to pour on by the pound and waste half of when those SAME "gunsmith schools/instructors" were/are teaching "bedding" as a "front to back" and SEPARATE "process" or "task" from "floating" the barrel (schools make more money and students pay more and "gunsmiths" make more when a "bed job" that RESULTS in a "floated barrel" is turned into TWO "SKILLS" AND "JOBS" by calling it "bedding" AND "free floating") and decided that "bedding a rifle" is "better" when you just put "bedding material" EVERYWHERE the "action" touches the stock even though NO FACTORY RIFLE BEGINS THAT WAY AND THE WHOLE POINT IS TO MINIMIZE CONTACT NOT OF THE RECEIVER TO THE STOCK BUT OF THE BARREL TO THE STOCK. There's NO WAY to "free float" a freaking ACTION/RECEIVER from a STOCK And then SCREW IT TO THE STOCK and GLASS BEDDING predates COMPOSITE/SYNTHETIC STOCKS THAT ALSO SHOULD BE AND ARE "GLASS BEDDED" BECAUSE THEY HAVE TO BE WITH THE "MOLDING" PROCESS BEING LESS "ACCURATE" AND "PRECISE" THAN "INLETTING" A WOOD STOCK. If you want to know if a gunsmith is worth a shit, do this little test. Take a FACTORY BEDDED RIFLE like a WEATHERBY MARK V OR BROWNING A-BOLT/X-BOLT OR TIKKIA OR HOWA TO HIM, ASK HIM IF "BEDDING" IT WILL IMPROVE THE ACCURACY/PRECISION AND IF HE SAYS "YES", FIND ANOTHER GUNSMITH. THEY'RE ALREADY "BEDDED" FROM THE FACTORY, THE AMOUNT OF "BEDDING" USES IS LESS THAN WHAT THESE "HOW-TO" VIDEOS AND "PROFESSIONAL GUNSMITHS" WASTE SQUIRTING OUT FROM BETWEEN THE STOCK AND ACTION AND IF YOU DON'T LOOK CLOSELY AND KNOW WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR YOU MIGHT NOT EVEN SEE THAT.

I thought this was a tutorial. Would have been nice if James would have explained what he was doing and cut out the crappy music.

Great video, but I am concerned about the brainwashing 80's music! Will it have a lasting health affect? Will I support Hillary? This is so confusing...

What kinda creepy ass serial killer music is that?????

First guy I see fingerbanging my feed ramp and bolt lugs with acraglas is getting a punch in the nose. One of the worst hack jobs I've seen.

Not a bad video but that music is trash

music sucks bad

Annoying and distracting music spoiled this video, together with fast forwarding through the prep work which I felt was a big mistake. Not seeing the basics was disappointing so I tuned out and gave a dislike.

Very annoying....had to leave after 2:50

Why is man coating his stock in chocolate pudding?

2:04 Two people mumbling mixed with that intolerable music coupled with making a video about how to glass bed then treating prep as a "Well, we did the prep earlier, or whatever, and now on to how to glass bed" Horrible.

WHAT THE HELL IS THAT AWFUL MUSIC!! I don't even want to call it music! What the hell is it? A women leaving voicemails? It's the worst thing I've ever heard and I'm a 911 operator for 15 years. Had to dislike the video for principle. Fire who's job it was picking the music.

How about some dialog instead of a highly annoying sound track. Useless.

this sucks big time

The music is absolutely nauseating