Learn how to glue photo-etched parts to your model. Find out all the details at: www.vms-suppli... 00:33 Flexy vs Generic CA 03:34 Preparation 04:53 Gluing actual PE 06:17 Correcting PE problems 07:25 Further detailing 14:50 Final Result
This stuff is the most amazing glue I have ever used. A super hard, but slightly flexible bond. Something you do not even remotely get with regular CA's. Well worth the extra $ for certain jobs that need it.
@@Vmssupplies I build ship models as opposed to vehicles or aircraft. On sailing ships, my preferred model, I use "a ton" of CA during the rigging process to secure knots and belaying (works like a charm), when it's dry I just spray Dullcoat and you can't see it. CA is not good for bonds that flex or need "real strength" as it is too brittle for that, but I'm going to try your CA on my next smaller hull as a test....I think it'll work just fine.
In a mear 16 minutes. I've learned so much about how to photoetch models I'm getting the Voyager 1 model kit and with the photoetch kit The model is going to look so AWESOME. thank you very much for the lesson 👍👍👍👍
The glue used in the video - VMS Flexy 5K. You can buy it directly from VMS at www.vms-supplies.com or from our partners in U.K. and U.S. Check out this cool review of Flexy 5K by a pro modeller Julian Conde: michtoy-from-the-front.blogspot.com/2017/07/trench-runner-review-julian-conde.html All the best, Chris
Hi, it will get slightly milky, if you need full clear glue you can try our Transpa 6K glue it's for clear parts but can glue PE just as well. www.vms-supplies.com/vms-transpa-fix-6k Chris
Yeah okay so the other glue really held up but who in their right mind would be pulling on their photo etch details on their models like that sure as hell not me I'll stick to regular CA works for me
Hi Joe, You are right, nobody would punish a model like that, it's just for the sake of the demonstration. Thing is regular CA can get brittle over 24-48 h and one can lose parts accidentally while weathering or handling. This glue just gives us an edge and prevents that better, but it's in no way compulsory to use. :) Happy modelling, Chris
These product's and this companies service are second to none. I've purchased a range of pigments, fixers and thinners etc and I have been really impressed they are really beautiful to work with.
I bought some, it lasted a few days then wouldn't even come out of the bottle. They said send it back with proof of purchase, like I saved the receipt and was gonna pay shipping.
Hi Owen, Sorry to hear you were sold old stock. A proof of purchase can be anything even an order email form a models shop of PayPal confirmation email. If you bought from one of our partners they will gladly replace it with the new no-clog bottle, improved shelf life formula version we are currently producing - these last like forever, just ask them for a replacement. We in turn will replace any bad glues our partners report to us or glues bought at www.vms-supplies.com only order number is required here. Hope this helps. Chris
Thank you for a superb video, great filming and text, but why this need for music. With a quality product and video production do you really think there is any need for a backing track. I know I can turn the sound off, but it would be nice hear the spoken word explaining the subject, after all we don't have music in the news broadcasting ....... Yet! ☺
Thanks a lot. :) Music + text is simply easier production wise. A quality clip with spoken commentary takes twice as much time to produce, more time is spent writing a script and editing what you get after a session, cutting out the noises etc. I hope in future we will be able to produce spoken videos though. :)
I have had this happen to me twice now, and i was hopeing you could tell me why. Using a thin ca, (not your brand) to glue 1/2 x 2 inch pieces of pe into a rectangle of fairly thick styrene caused the styrene frame to just break apart into three pieces. I didnt clamp it, or drop it, it just broke apart. Any thoughts?
Can someone explain to me why it is that some enterprising company doesn’t sell put together PE parts? If I were a PE manufacturer I’d realize I’d sell a lot more of it if it were out together already. Having two jobs, two kids, two dogs , two car payments and mortgages does not lend itself to the countless hours spent on trying to bend microscopic parts. There’s a marketing idea!
There is an idea but I believe such parts would cost a fortune. Any hobby is a luxury that requires the most precious resource - time. I hope you can find more when the kids are older and the payments settled. 😉 Good luck!
Iv noticed my 2 different debonders are just Acetone! That's all the ingredient label has bit annoying when turns to a gel when using them though I find! Especially when a tiny bit comes through a mesh hole I cant stand that! Iv found a super glue that's called fantastic elastic so going away to try this on a couple of PE armour skirts for.my jagdpanther 2 I dont want them all glued on I'll try use the hangers there kinda crappy plenty scrap PE left over to make some hooks for the ends tho gonna try that!so can take some off n display with them on or off
Hi there, you are right, acetone based debonders are a big no-no - they will dissolve polystyrene - that's what our models are made of. For CA removal we advise scraping with the blade and sanding or just using it more sparingly. Thanks a lot for your feedback! Happy modelling, Chris
That's why I always add a couple of drops of Extra thin to my super glues if can only get hold of the cheap ones! The extra thin allows for abit of flexibility revell contacta is the best for it though probably all I use that dreadful stuff for these days
@@Vmssupplies I thought alot of people knew about this even mixing abit of PVA in with your superglue gives it a shock absorbent! It's maybe an old joiners trick then we done at work for wood and superglue under brackets etc, I've used it on my models for year's aswell Haha thanks for the reply that's interesting to hear it's not getting used in the hobby as I've used it for brass items for 10 years haha, it's hard to get VMS here in the UK I'm sure you sent me a line before for a UK website for it?
hello, maybe a stupid question.. it is possible to use this glue to stick photo-etched part (for example part of cockpit) on already painted part? thanks for answer :)
Great tutorial! Comes in very handy for me as i am currently building the M4A3 "Victory Kiss" from Meng which comes with a lot (!) of photo etch parts:) Thank you very much!
Hi there, maybe one day as we have many other videos to attend to. Good news: we will be releasing new Flexy 5K types in several days, you will certainly love the new THIN type which works by capillary action and will be sweet for railings. Please sign up for our news letter at www.vms-supplies.com to be the first to know about new glues. :) Cheers, Chris
Here's what I do-I build 1/350 ships; I 'tack' the part with a bit of PVA/Gator's Grip directly on the model surface [NOT the part, as if you miss-it will take the glue off] using Tamiya angled tweezers to get the part positioned correctly, then apply super thin CA-continuously adjusting the angle of the part 'till it's set. Finally [if needed e.g rails-which can flex over time] I apply a 50/50 mix of PVA and water. For rails, I start by glueing one section or stanction to "spot weld", let it set [working on other parts in the meanwhile], then go back to it, glueing and letting cure a section at a time. For positioning horizontal one-bar footrails [something you don't need to worry about in 1/700, as they're already out of scale in 1/350]; I stick down little "L" shapes of masking tape-to rest the rail on as I glue. That's a neat little trick I got from the internet, that makes this initially daunting job very easy. Otherwise, use calipers to measure distance and mark them down on a piece of paper, so you know where to cut and fold. Finally, with multi-bend rails; always dry fit first.
Fantastic product, though it has one significant setback: the time you’ve got to use it. I’ve been using this glue for over a year and a half now. I’ve had to get it replaced about three times due to it expiring. Unfortunately, I often wouldn’t even get the opportunity to use up half of the bottle before that happens. I’ve talked about this with other experienced modelers, specifically ones specializing in ship models but also AFVs, and they also noticed that issue. It’s unfortunate as the glue simply stops sticking after about 3 months of usage (again, sometimes using up only half of the container) resulting in the requirement to replace it for quite a high price, just to see it happen again. I’ve worked with other glue brands and honestly can’t recall encountering such an issue. But don’t let this hold you back from using it as it’s a really great product and works like a charm. Hope that the production department manages to figure something out.
Thanks a lot for your kind comment and suggestions! We are constantly working on the packaging and formula, latest test glues have been good for 12 months and the counter is ticking but these were unopened. Cheers, Chris
I am beginner and have question. The pe parts I want to use have printed gauges,for cockpit, will the glue destroy this if contact occurs? Thank you for any help.
Hello, it's best to avoid contact with printed layer, the thing is the glue will not destroy it on the spot, but when it dries it will look bad and if you try to remove it a problem may occur. For the gauges you can use our Transpa Fix 6K glue which will glue them fine and is reversible: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0rpQTYsqFws.html Glue is for clear parts but will cope with PE just fine.
Global Store doesn't ship to Romania, you need to use our EU stockists. www.vms-supplies.com/buy-now Please let hobbyzone.ro know you are interested in VMS we will be connecting with them soon. Chris
Thanks for your vid. In past I have used Zap but never used a wire. I always ended in a mess and when it came for photo etch I tended to give it a miss. Also I ended with corrosion because I used to much. I try your method next model that needs this technique. Fingers crossed, thanks again.
Hello, Drying time is 150% of standard CA. If you need more time you can try our Flexy 5K SLOW with 500% longer drying time: www.vms-supplies.com/vms-flexy-5k-slow Best regards, Chris
You can use whatever you want as long as it works for your parts. Some parts need quick setting some slow setting glue - we also have slower version Flexy 5K SLOW, in case you need ore time :) Happy modelling, Chris
Good for you Filip, generic CA will do for basic projects but the luxury of not losing the PE parts while handling your model later for instance during extensive weathering and while handling RC models comes as a real boon for more demanding modellers. There are other advantages too. :) Please have a look at this independent review to see what I mean: michtoy-from-the-front.blogspot.com/2017/07/trench-runner-review-julian-conde.html Cheers, Chris
Easier with VMS that's for sure. Adjustability is a bonus. Other than Flexi, I resort to gel CA glue. However I have many VMS products which lessen hurdles. I find VMS pricing very acceptable compared to performance. These tutorials do you justice. Manipulating & bending photo etch is the real tricky part.
I have a P-38 Lightning 1/32 scale Revell that I built years ago and I want to repair the landing gear. I purchased a kit of metal parts by Scale Aircraft Conversions which is made as a replacement set for this plane. Will this Flexy 5K work for gluing the metal gear parts to the styrene plastic of this plane? Will it be strong enough to hold the weight of the plane? Thanks in advance!
Hi Sam. Thanks for your question. This glue will produce strong bonds with white metal - both metal to metal and metal to PS. All you have to remember is sand the metal parts to produce even and patina-free surface for the glue and then degrease them with our Styrene cements just to make sure - please check our other video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-upR0CoK-fXU.html we show how to prepare metal for cementing there. PS should be degreased with dish washing liquid. Important thing is how you actually incorporate the gear into the model, you should drill holes to accept the shafts and it should work all right. All the best and happy modelling, Chris
@@MustangSam Glad to be of help Sam, trials are always a good idea. Will keep my fingers crossed for a successful repair of your P-38! Le me know how it goes, Chris
I hear you, you can hit the mute button, and play your favourite music on a different tab, works for me. :) This is a good video that helped many a modeller, one of our firsts, newer have better background music . :)
i find most difficult with pe is picking up very small parts.. usually i try to pick up with tip of blade and that eventually will work but can slip off before applying..any suggestions? great vid tks!
Glad you enjoyed the video. I tend to use precision tweezers, with fine tips. Some guys use a blunt pencil tip I hear that acts as a sticky "magnet". Happy modelling, Chris 😉
Tamiya angled tweezers. It's all I use. I still have conventional straight tweezers, but only use them to remove strands of hair; as they grip better. But for positioning of model parts; nothing comes close to angled tweezers. They're all I've used for the past 30 odd yrs, and I build 1/350 ship models with all the hundreds of extra bits of PE. This glue looks pretty interesting; I should at least give it a shot. What I do already works though; 'tacking' the part with a bit of PVA/Gator's Grip directly on the model surface, get the part positioned correctly, then apply super thin CA, finally [if needed e.g rails-which can flex over time] apply a 50/50 mix of PVA and water.
Just tried this product out. Worked great. Always had an issue with gluing PE but this stuff was super easy to use and created a strong bond that wasn't brittle.
Hi Chris, just returned to this having obtained some of the glue. I found I was putting too much down even with the cut needle , going to try the wire application tomorrow as have some pe claspes to glue . Like the way you were able to move the part even when on the glue, hope I can manage this ! John .
I'm sure you will do all right John it's the matter of practice. If there is too much glue on the wire/needle you can touch the tip to a piece of paper so some of it is absorbed away. :) Have fun, Chris
Hi there, Thanks for the suggestion - much appreciated, I will consider shooting a second video in the future. The cementing procedure would be similar for 1/350 and 1/700 ships though all you have to take into account are proper tools - right tweezers and a good set of application wires. The glue itself will behave similarly whenever you glue plastic to metal. Best regards, Chris
Hello, not just yet but we ship worldwide with tracking number via our global store: www.vms-supplies.com/store-pigments Please note, due to covid there may be some delays in processing your order as the flights from EU to Singapore are temporarily suspended but soon to resume. Best regards, Chris
I literally almost smashed three projects due to trying to glue photo etch to a model with vms ,ammo and bobs they all seem to only glue my finger instantly.i give up on photo etch
@@Vmssupplies I guess I'm just under the impression and I'm wrong obviously that instant cement should be instant. I glued same piece on today after a night of relaxing and stepping away it glued a lot better however some other pieces seem like the glue had dried before the photo edge piece made it there I took the piece of off sanded it and try it again and worked I'm not sure I need a class on this stuff. When I watch videos it looks so much easy they put the glue put the piece there and then done
Hi mate, please check here: www.scalemodelshop.co.uk/?s=vms also under normal circumstances (no COVID virus blocking flights) we ship to UK in 5 days from PL. Best regards and happy modelling, Chris
So far everything I have used from VMS has been above expectation. I have a M1151 EAC from Academy that I stopped working on since I had 3 Eduard PE sets to install on this kit that never seemed to want to set up and adhere with regular CA. I think I shall revisit this kit when I am done with my current build.
This could be just what I'm looking for. My PE never sticks. It'll stick to everything BUT the kit and it drives me nuts. I've got the HK 1/48 B-17 to build with a ton of Eduard PE. I'll be buying me some of this stuff asap.
Hello and thanks a lot for your comment! Eduard PE is notorious for not sticking but this varies from set to set. The glue should help, you can also sand/degrease the more problematic parts. Best regards, Chris
Need to invest in some decent CA, the stuff I'm using @ the min is cheap poundland shite and it is my first photo etch use on a model! Just for the record it's a Thunder Bergepanzer Hetzer late with Voyagermodel PE, gorgeous little kit. TFS, GB :)
Thanks a lot for watching and your comment Greame! Have fun with the Bergepanzer Hetzer, we are positive the glues will help you hit the mark! Cheers, Chris
Hello Martin, Yes, will work and we even have a resin dedicated type: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-upR0CoK-fXU.html Happy modelling, Chris
It's easier to airbrush the entire model when the PE parts are already on it. If you painted the parts first and then cut out the parts in order to glue them the paint would often crack and fall off due to tension - extra work. Even if the paint would stay on the parts the glue to paint bond is stronger than glue to metal - parts would easily separate from the model. Please check out the new voiced version of the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-eTPiJ9OkvgM.html
Very well done tutorial. I learned all I needed to know from your video. Can't do better than that. Superb CA! Perfect example of getting what you pay for.
This is hands down the only glue that I use i am a fulltime model builder i love all the VMS products we need more the only problem i have it can be hard to get it in the USA i order Direct or from Michigan toys soldier .i try and spread the word on the products they are awesome
Btw, I would love to see how you paint up those tanks in your intro. They look amazing. I grew up on military bases and saw tanks on a daily basis. Your work is so effective that it reminds me of the real thing and it was the paint work that stood out to me.
Cheers Neil, hope the glue helps with your project, you can also try sanding and/or degreasing is parts are stubborn, details are in FAQ section at our page: www.vms-supplies.com/flexy-5k-pe-product-overview Best regards, Chris
Hi Dalton, It's Dragon's Pz.Kpfw. III Ausf. N sPz.Abt.501 Afrika (kit #6431) the kit came with some PE like engine deck grills and was detailed up with Aber clasps and OVM (set 35A98 ) + Alliance Model Works claps (LW25047). I also did some minute scratch parts. Chris
Hi, thanks lot for your kind comment, glad you enjoyed it, please visit here to see the list of stockists: www.vms-supplies.com/buy-now Best regards, Chris P.S. One bottle will go a long way unless you build 1 several models a day. :)
Just saw this for the first time and I am blown away by the grip or strength of Flexy 5k. I will have to look into getting some of it soon. Thanks for sharing!
I just clicked the link to your store. I will surf through and purchase few items. New to armor modeling so a lot of figure out about weather. Also, just subscribed 😉
That's some excellent work on fine details and thanks for the info and instructions on application learned a lot, will have to look for that ca glue cheers!
Hello Owen, Sorry to hear the glue is acting funny, it shouldn't happen, opened glue should be good for at least a year! Please send us your receipt and a photo of the bottle with batch number clearly visible. We will ship you a fresh bottle free of charge. Our e-mail address is contact@vms-supplies.com Stay in touch, Chris
@@owenauer3406 No problem, Owen I understand you completely. You can always edit your comment a bit to sound less harsh, we would really appreciate it. :) A PayPal payment confirmation and/or a photo of the defective bottle will suffice for a replacement. If you are interested we will be running a free shipping promotion on February 1st and I will be more than happy to include a free bottle of glue if you decided to place an order for another products. The promotion will be announced by our newsletter, you can subscribe at our site www.vms-supplies.com Stay in touch, Chris
Hi There Alan, thanks for your message and order. You are correct this is CA glue. The glue dries quickly enough you won't need to add anything to it unless you want it to dry very, very fast. All the best and happy modelling, Chris
Okay, I'm convinced...not the most scientific test, but effective enough for me to buy the stuff. I'm always amazed at how CA will harden instantly to anything I don't want it to...and yet takes forever to bond and hold a critical or difficult to attach part...just amazing how that works.
Thanks a lot for your support Brian and glad you enjoyed the video! There are many more glues in Flexy family - thin, slow, black, you name it. There is also a dedicated VMS debonder. Happy modelling, Chris
I feel like a complete fool, and who knows I may even actually be one, but for the life of me, I can't figure out how to use the bottle. I mean, I unscrew the lid and it just comes off fully to reveal the tub opening. I know it says its a dropper bottle so the mistake is mine but what are you supposed to do? Cut the top? AAAARRRRRGHH!
You need to grip the lower part of the "cap" and twist the upper part it will twist right off - the packaging is composed of 3 parts - the bottle itself, dropper that goes on the bottle and the cap that goes on the dropper. The cap has a metal pin inside so it's very hard for it to be bonded to the dropper. Do not cut off any parts it was only required for the old style bottle. Chris
@@Vmssupplies Thanks Chris - great you got back on here! I see what you're saying and it all looks right. I think grip on such a small surface might be tricky but will maybe give the pliers a go. Cheers