Hey Dave, yes I think that is one of the best tools that we could have for our buggies of any kind, or four wheelers for that matter, as long as they make the specific Greaser for that particular machine. It definitely prolongs the life of any bearing keeping grease in it. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
I'm not trying to sound like a know it all, but I did run the lubrication program for a 700 acre chemical plant that had over 4000 greased bearings in the plant of all shapes, sizes, speeds, temps, locations and many even got hot water wash downs on a daily basis. Anyway v I'd like to point out that: 1. It's pretty obvious, but the tool should be pumped full of grease b4 even attaching it to avoid pumping air into the bearing. 2. Sealed bearings usually contain a polyurea grease in them as they usually are made for motors and high rpm. That grease is not compatible with the marine grease which I agree with using. You will get better life by popping of the seals and getting the new grease out of your new bearing, then hand packing them at installation. The rubber seals pop right back on. 3. 21 pumps is way too much. Take a paper towel and squirt 21 pumps on it... the average grease gun is designed for 33 pumps per oz. 4. There isn't a bearing manufacturer in the world that will tell you it is proper to pump it until the grease comes out like in the video. The balls need room to roll and will displace the extra grease between the cages and the balls and races as soon as you start riding. Frankly, the method shown is creating friction and deflecting the balls in the bearing and shortening the life of the bearings. 5. I encourage you to find greasing videos from SKF, NSK, FAG, Timken, or other major manufacturer for proper techniques and get the jist of proper quantity.
I agree with this comment there has to be aomething to it, i greased all my factory bearings using the red tacky grease and 2 out of 4 failed that year with less than 700 miles. I believe the grease wasn't compatible. I had the same bad results on my sons xp1000 also. Make sure to use the proper grease. When we tore them apart they were completely dry and rusty and only had approximatley 200 miles put on them since greasing. Just sharing me experiences with greasing our bearings, i hope everyone else has better luck than i did.
Never apologize for sounding like a know it all if in fact you know something. There are way too many humble people out there that could teach us so much if they weren't afraid to be attacked by the real know it alls. I've never worked for a lubrication program, but I have read/applied lots and can verify what you are saying. Here's a few things I've noticed in no particular order. I always wondered about this with boat trailer spring loaded grease cups. First, the beauty behind them is they are incredibly low speed (for most folks). However, there is a lot of friction that is created by having to move so much grease around, and this does create heat. That heat does create expansion which does push back on the spring loaded plunger. In other sealed bearings I have noticed that the heat can climb to the point where the grease becomes thinner, expands, and with any hope gets extruded past the seal. This action after awhile actually creates a happier medium between space and grease. however, this action probably could create a scenario that might actually pop the seal off of the bearing. Haven't seen that yet. I guess I can understand why do people want to remove all space within a bearing assembly with grease so as to keep water out, but as I said you will never be able to keep a bearing full, it is impossible without having an expansion area. Probably a whole bunch more I can add but I've got lots to do today. I just wanna let you know I was delighted to see your reply to this video, there is so much to learn and to know about bearing assemblies, and I find that awesome. Keep sharing what's upstairs man, Thanks!
Definitely agree with this awesome comment. I’m an aircraft maintenance engineer. Bearings require a pretty specific amount of grease and full is never a thing. You want the balls to roll, and when you put too much grease in they slide/ skid creating heat and wear.
If ya look the grease came from the seal not from the tool i watched this on a 70" tv and you clearly see it. and when you pulled the tool out there was barely any grease on it. Im not an expert but i do use these tools the tigre one sucked but worked i have a cheaper set 40mm and 35mm for our sportsmans with 2 o-rings and a centre groove machined all the way around. And pump grease into it first fill the tool and also grease the tool before and max 10 pumps the bearings are made for speed not load to much is bad. 10 pumps move to next so on. Do this at every oil change/service and will last. I have a 2015 570 6000 km and factory berings no issues. My 2017 i changed all 4 the day i got it home i have stock bearings rode on trailer off trailer into shop removed rear bearing and it grinded and ya felt it 10 pumps into new ones fine since. Good video tho and yes i did subcribe
Same things with the Can-Am. Not a whole lot of grease from the factory. I recently ordered the bearing grease tool, but I have done the suspension zerks, and more pumps then I thought would be required. ATV/UTVs are expensive. Off Ebay the grease bearing tool cost $8. Spend the $ and save yourself costly repairs down the road.
From my past experience, the new bearings are greased for high rpm. Take for example an lawn mover deck's bearing that turn high RPMs, one or two pumps is all that is needed. Too much grease and high revolutions will cause heat build up and cause premature failure. Just say.
I will not disagree with that theory at all, I've had other similar circumstances of that myself. On HIGH RPM applications that is true, but I don't think these wheels spin that fast for that to happen, I personally think that not enough grease would cause it quicker in our machines, but that is just my opinion. Thanks for watching & commenting, see you on the trail & don't forget to; Relax & Enjoy the Journey
From what I have found out, the front & rear both are 44mm bearings, so the bearing greaser I have posted (The 44mm greaser) in this video should work just fine, hope this helps. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
Pull the wheel, take off the brake caliper, take out the axle nut cutter pin, loosen & remove the axle nut, pull the "hub-brake caliper off & then insert the bearing greaser into bearing housing & pump grease.
Just went to buy this and was told for my 2018 ranger xp900 A guy needs two different sizes....a 40 mm and 44mm....just so ranger guys know...this tool doesnt do both the front and rear. Btw why in the world didnt pooplaris make these a sealed bearing I have no idea.
My RZR 570 (PeeWee) takes the 2 different sizes as well, I thought all the newer machines took the 44mm at all 4 wheels, hmmmm? Keep them lubricated often & they will last you a lot longer. Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
I have over 6k miles on my general and just replaced my wheel bearings for the first time. I think I'll just keep ignoring them like i did before and in another 6k miles I'll put new $50 bearings in again. Lol. Oh and i live by a lake and do deep water/mud crossings frequently. And lots of sand.
Bought the 44mm for my 15 rzr xp1k and it doesn’t work at all. Absolute garbage tool. Needs orings on both sides not just one. Why do something half assed? Blows my mind.
Ryan there must be something else wrong, I use the 44mm on my buggy & my buddies XP1K & 1000S all the time with absolutely no issues at all. Check to make sure it is seated all the way in the bearing, shouldn't be any issues like your having. Let me know if you figure it out, Thanks for watching, see you on the trail.
