Interesting. Been using root hormone fpr years and it does work. But i always tend to think about how the chemical melody may react. It just doesnt seem natural. So great advice im going to try. Everything other step the same, just substitute organic honey for rooting hormone?
I just saw a video of a guy putting raw honey on the cutting. He put a hole in a potatoes put the cutting in it and put a jar over mason type. Said mist daily. Interesting. Ready in 2 weeks thanks I'm gonna try. I have tons of cuttings. 5 acres I'm gonna make a orchard from 4 trees lol😊
hey! pretty comprehensive video, but you might want to mention the difference between hardwood cuttings depending on season. pretty clear your cuttings were vernal, but winter and autumn cuttings benefit from more length. also helpful to sterilize your medium, whatever it is, in an oven first.
You left out important information such as what time of year can you take a cutting from an established tree? Did you mix sand in your slip of was it just sand?
How long can you leave the cutting in the pot before transplanting outside? And does it need to be cold during winter or can I leave it in the house for a few years while it grows??
Apple and pear trees will simply NOT root this way. Or very, very rarely if they do at all. There are lots of videos on RU-vid showing a very similar method. Note how NONE of them show the roots or the growing tree? That's because the method in this video simply does not work to root cuttings of apple or pear or plum. The cuttings will leaf out, then die as there are no roots to feed the new shoots. This method does work with "easy to root" trees like willow, etc. but NOT with very hard to root cuttings of apple, pear or plum. While it is possible to root cuttings of apple, it is done in very specialized computer timed misting chambers with special chemicals and special heated rooting mediums.
@@yasmeenhasan9925 do study by watching "how to graft" videos on RU-vid on, buy rootstock to graft on to, and reproduce your best tasting fruit trees that way. Its a bit of work to learn this, but grafting is actually very easy once you get the hang of it. If you are unwilling to do this the only option is to give up on the idea of reproducing your apple, pear and plum trees. Yes, you can plant the seeds, but the resulting trees and fruit will not be true to type from the variety you got the seeds from. With a lot of luck you might even get a better tasting variety however from planting seeds.
I pruned my apple trees in Late February. Took 8-10 inch cuttings, scratched up the bottoms & dipped in hormone & stuck in the ground. Dude, I kid you not. I have 36 trees starting to bud today. All of them except 2 or 3. I stuck about 4 cuttings in each spot so I'll have to pick the strongest to keep but this should give me 8-9 free trees for free.
I like your technique. What is your room temperature and do you place them under lights while rooting? I understand the necessity of rootstock, especially in cold climates. The tap root of cold hardy seedling rootstocks helps secure water and stabilize the tree, not to mention disease resistance, precocity, hardiness or any other factors imparted by the rootstock through the graft union. People have forgotten that up until 100 years ago grafting existed but was not a wide spread practice. Most trees were grown on their own roots from cuttings. While it is true that some have incredibly vigorous roots and do very well propogated this way, it is certianly not true for them all. For container culture, a hobby or a stop gap measure while waiting for rootstock it is certainly a worthy practice still. Especially for old unknown varieties that may be dying if you do not have material to graft with handy. Thank you for you video.
I live on a sand bar off the Washington coast in the Pacific Northwest. Do apple trees like to be planted in sand? I was browsing around trying to figure out if they will grow in sand amended from the top with seaweed and wood chips. I have a chipper and put bull kelp thru it 😁. New gardener. Due to the sand issue I dug out 4 feet under my raised beds and filled it with cardboard, red alder logs in all stages of rot, seagrass, leaves, bull kelp whole so they are lined up like logs next to the logs to decompose slower as well as help the log decompose, some chipped kelp, red alder wood chips, dead dune grass, live dune marsh grass, live and dead ferns, branches in all stages of rot, twigs, native soil (from where they have soil, not my yard which is sand), mushroom compost. Anything I could find I layered up. Then put hardware cloth and dig more Hugelkulture but smaller logs to fill the beds halfway. I have mushroom compost I got last summer that had to overwinter. Gonna mix that with something to plant in. Fingers crossed I can get stuff to grow in it. I hear seaweed is great. The deer are loving having me clearing all the fallen branches out of the animal trails. They spend a lot more time in the bushes than on the road. Humans were a part of the natural ecosystem too. I think people overlook that when they want everything totally natural. Animals and humans used the same trails for many eons.
Do you keep your cuttings indoor or outside? And what is the usual temp outside if you leave them outside? I ask because I'm trying this now that it's winter because I heard cuttings work better in winter. Thanks for any information you can give!
I just grew my apple trees from seeds.. Just put them on a wet piece of tissue in a transparent dish so they can get sunlight and then they will root and you can plant them in a pot and later in the ground
You can do that, but from what I understand you might end up with apples that taste pretty bad. This is because you don’t know what kind of apple tree pollinated the tree that provided the fruit. It could be pollinated by a crabapple, and you won’t find out until your tree produces fruit. If you take a cutting it has the same dna and will provide the same flavor apples as the tree you took the cutting from
Air Layering just about Any tree or shrub that is growing edible fruit will make an Exact Copy of the Mother tree or fruiting shrub in about 90 days. In the Spring, Summer, or Early Fall It Does Work.
Can aur layering type of thing be done indoors/tarps/tents/green houses etc? It would be awesome to plant every bud of the branch in separate container (may be something like hydroponics). I want a tree out of every bud that I prune off of my orchards 😂
HI I planted a hardwood cutting of a 100 year old summer apple 10 days ago. It has already started to sprout leaves which is amazing and I didn't expect. My question is this. I noticed that the tips of the leaves are turning brown and drying. What would you suggest I do or is this normal. I dipped the cutting in clonex and planted it surrounded by organic material and watered it well. I planted it directly into the ground. I have been watering it daily. any suggestions on how to best care for my llittle apple tree? This is a unknown variety. It is a called by the locals a June April and the tree is in Tennessee. It has been in my family for a 100 years maybe longer and it is the last one so I wanted to plant another.
Great information. My question is this-apple trees from the nursery are grafted onto different root stock. Too make a stronger tree I think. Will these clones be able to hold there weight including fruit?
Ray May Different rootstocks have their own benefits whether it be dieses resistance or size of the mature tree. A tree will only grow to the size its roots can handle and some ppl want dwarf, semi dwarf trees and this can be achieved by picking a rootstock that only grows to a certain height & then grafting the desired scion wood onto that rootstock to have the genetics you want and the size tree you prefer. *Yes* , grafted trees will hold fruit no problem and they typically bare fruit several years before seedling trees do.
I noticed you sterilize your tools to prevent spread of disease but then you dip the cutting directly into the original container of rooting hormone. This can spread disease to all future cuttings dipped in it.
@@ironoak888 dusty is right outdoor plants can have mold on them. By dipping directly in the powder you risk spores in your hormone. This can infect all future cuttings.
Our apple tree blew over last fall in a tornado, we weren't able to get to it to cut it up. We thought it was dead, it is greening up now. The buds are open. Can I still use that branch to root or is it too late already
What season should I cut my new growth? I have an apple tree I want to clone and give to my neighbors so we can all have apples, and have more trees to pollinate with.
I root them outdoors in the shade make sure the par does not exceed 300 ppfd. Keep the rh% around 65-70 and keep the temp 72°f-78°f. Keep them out of direct sunlight. As for medium I use cloud coir 70 30 coco perl mix . I use clonex to start the process. I start the solution at 5.5 pH and at 250 ppm on the 500 scale. Douse the medium in this starting solution and dip your cuttings in rooting hormone stab the clones about 1 inch into the coco. Afterwords put the dome on and monitor your dome as mentioned above. Once every 12 hrs wipe the dome down. As you do more feedings gradually raise your pH to 6.5 over time. Don't overwater your medium as this causes rot as well as when you wipe the clone dome down give the clones a few mins to breathe.
I found an apple stick from a nursery and cut it in 3 and put in a cup with water now its growing... when doni plant them in soil. Please and thank you
I took wood off of a dwarf Patio Peach and Granny Smith apple trees about a month ago. I don't have any of the rooting stuff and tried just rooting them in some water but it didn't take. I have both end pieces like you showed and thicker wood from further down a branch and they just turn the water the bark color and start to mold. I keep washing them off and adding a little peroxide to get rid of mold, but so far no hint of any roots. Will these still root if I get some clonex or other rooting compound or are they dead and should I try a new piece?
You can try greenwood cuttings in early June: cut a piece 8-12" long, strip leaves except the last three and cut them in half. Dip in the rooting starter of your choice and make a long hole to insert it without rubbing off the hormone. Pat firm around it. Keep moist and out of direct sun until it grows well and you can put it outside, or if it is slow to start, until it goes dormant. Plant in the ground and mulch well. Otherwise, you must wait until next March. BTW, this makes a potentially larger tree than you might expect. Granny Smith is likely to become 18 - 22' tall and wide. First fruit might take 6 years (I don't know if it is at all precocious to bloom.) Patio Peach sounds like a Big Box gambit, grafted onto very dwarfing stock. Your peach may be 12' tall and wide some day.
I need to get some rooting starter. I think that may be the key and maybe putting it directly into soil next time would work better than soaking in water. It kept starting to grow mold and I had to constantly wash it and sterilize it again with peroxide. My peach (the one I got the scion off of is very tall, but I've heard it can do that even if it's a dwarf if it's planted outside in the ground. The two granny smith's in my back yard are much taller than the peach tree, as those aren't dwarf at all. I'd say probably more like 30 feet tall. I just wish these full grown ones would bear fruit. The peach always starts to but then some sort of borer worm gets into the fruit and causes it to drop off prematurely. When I was still able I got on a ladder and sprayed it with stuff that was supposed to protect it from those but it wasn't effective at all. I think the Granny Smith aren't producing apples because the weather has been very unreliable and this year especially it has rained and has been unusually cold for the time of year almost every day for over a month. I'm sure this messes up the plant's internal clocks.
I can't say more about your peach. Regarding the Granny Smiths, even self- fertile apples get better fruit set with another apple variety near by. Since yours are standards, it takes longer before they begin flowering. Hope you are living in a area with at least 175 days between frosts on average. Then you stand a chance of getting ripe Granny Smith apples.
Yes I have some granny smith trees nearly 100 years old (came to NY during WW2), neglected and dying off. I stabilized them but need to take cuttings asap. My question is, soil type? Large size vermiculite or is that too dry? .. and how do we sterilize soil if I use that? Should we bake it in the Sun? Then root and soil temperatures from I remember cannot go below 72deg, and best around 80deg? Not above 84? Lastly should we place a humidity dome over them? So many variables and I only have maybe 6 shoots of soft wood. I will climb higher to hopefully get some snippets like you have with little buds. Lower ones mostly died off. I just moved here, trying to save the old fruit orchard. TY!
Can I use a very large branch of my Apple tree (with buds) to root it the way you explained it, to speed up the process? IE in lieu of a thin branch like you showed
Thank You on nice and educational video.I live in southern Croatia (Dalmatia) so when would be the best time to take cuttings?Late february ,or I can take them right now?
Nice to hear from you! So you are in the Northern Hemisphere and probably experiencing winter right now or its getting close. I take cuttings anytime of the year depending on what type of plant it is. Apple Trees are considered Hardwood so taking cuttings right now through Feb would be good while the tree is dormant. Take care and God Bless You.
Is there a best time of the year to root apple trees? Now, in Michigan, trees have full leaves on them. Should I wait until fall? Or spring next year? Great video by the way.
yes, now is the time...i would use clonex on the cutting...get some construction sand and fill a plastic bucket halfway and root them that way...adding plastic wrap to lock in moisture.
if you use a sharpie and draw a 1in x 1in grid on the bag of sand.....you can then poke a hole with a screwdriver everywhere the lines in the grid intersect. around 110 cuttings if I recall(double check) insert cuttings after hormone soak...pour water over the bag and watch the water fill the bag about a 1/4 of the way(laying flat).......it's a mini green house for the roots. roots prosper best when medium is about 55degrees. add some shade and watch those roots erupt. i had fist size root balls on forsythia plants in about a week
Yes and no. Some species do better with greenwood cuttings (early summer) and some do better rooted over the winter with dormant wood. Try both ways and see what happens. I have started Japanese Maple in summer and black currants in fall to root over winter. in both cases, it is important to have plenty of the cutting buried to give the most root potential.
Using late summer apple wood, I've had about 50% success with first year growth, but you need to do two things, thin to one leaf and put in high humidity enclosure this gives enough moisture to get through the root growing period of roughly a month. I've also seen cherry trees done this way (in a university youtube video here somewhere). The second problem though, you have no recovery time before winter. So the pots should be buried or blanketed with mulch or dirt to reduce freezing and in the Spring, you will still need a little luck :) This author's technique might benefit from an observation I accidentally stumbled across. Using 6" black pots, and setting them in the sun in late February, grape vine starts rooted at the outside (warm side, my guess, keeping the roots warm like a cheap heating blanket) of the pot but not at the inside! My guess, a similar approach might work here. Just keep in mind, It's a battle to provide enough water for any foliage with no roots present. For small plantings you can use plastic donut containers from the deli, using the top and bottoms and as saucers for your pot water, maybe raising pots above the ground to reduce critter predation. Pretty soon you get to feeling like Martha Stewart. :)
yeah, no worries... 22 degrees celcius should be just right on temp and anytime you can add a grow light, well thats awesome! sunlight in a sunny local is always helpful
no! previous years growth tend to root, older wood has way less success rate... think pencil size... also the most vertical branch has more auxins in them.
It depends. If you take the square root of the average grain size of the sand and divide it by the reciprocal of the ambient air temperature on harvest day it may or may not work. Good luck and let us know!
PlanktoniusRex Itried it and it worked great but the tree grew upside down , i.e. the base of the trunk is at the top it sagged over badly . What do i do now?
Yes, beach sand actually is often cleaner than many soils, so it is good for starters. You can start stocks from seed, but they vary a lot in size and quality - the luck of the draw. You can determine the dwarfing (or lack thereof) if you buy root stocks (cheap!) and keep some going by "stooling." Too much to write about here, but that should give you direction.
You should try using fresh Aloe from a plant to dip your cuts into. Way better than those products. If your worried about getting it on your skin you probably shouldn't eat anything grown with it.
I like to transplant in the fall, it's cooler and less heat stress for them. They have some time to set roots, then they wake up in the spring already rooted.
if u grow in pot u can give some light nutrient but if the tree is planted in soil not at all. after dropping the leaves the tree will enter in hibernation and does not need much food. the best time to feed the tree is in the vegetative and fruit state...give them rich compost and water a lot.
well, i would start with a smaller limb that is freshly growing from new Spring growth... unlike grafting into a tree the cutting needs to grow roots. Grafting you can use larger limbs but with rooting you want to go with smaller tender growth.
Yes, but this way is much slower to bloom (you wait 6-10 years) and you may end up with a much larger tree, depending on the size your tree is normally and its root stock. Grafting may seem scary - sharp things! - but is easier than I expected and very satisfying. First, try to learn what kind of tree you have. Let's say you have a vigorous apple tree: Harrison, Greensleeves, Rambour Franc, Belle de Boskoop, Jonagold, Northern Spy or Roxbury Russet (not exhaustive list.) A vigorous apple tree can get 30 feet tall and wide. If the variety is vigorous and your tree is half that size, then you need a root stock that yields a comparable amount of dwarfing: M26, Geneva30 & 202, MM106 will get you somewhere in that range (ascending order of sizes.) If it is average vigor (most are), there are stocks that can yield an ultimate size to meet your needs. Look around and sleep on it before committing yourself. Grafting can bump up initial bloom 2-5 years, which helps to keep most apple trees smaller, too. Have fun!
we just moved to a new farm...all of our plants we started from seed, well most were left in the yard there.. our lemon tree did perish in the greenhouse a few years ago..it was doing so well :)
Is this the same process to clone a dwarf apple tree? Would like another dwarf apple tree. If I take a cutting from a dwarf does it become a dwarf tree?
That depends upon whether the tree you have stands on its own roots or is grafted. Take a look near the ground on your tree. Is there a line, with differing bark above and below? Grafted. No? Standing on its own roots, which means it is a natural dwarf. If it is not a natural dwarf, then it needs to be grafted onto semi-dwarf root stock. They aren't expensive, and grafting is fun. Get some from Raintree or Cummins, or whoever you like online. I like Geneva 30, which makes about half size and produces excellent crops. Make a couple, in case only one takes, or "calluses." Try cleft, saddle or V grafts. They are actually easier than whip-&-tongue. And use 1/2 inch wide Parafilm. It's the best and easiest to work with. If your tree is a standard (dwarf on its own roots) you still want to graft. That's because you can dig it up and bury the graft union a year or so after the graft takes and create a standard as the budwood begins to make its own roots. The tree will bloom at an earlier age if done with a graft. If you make a self-rooted cutting, as in this video, the blooming will be delayed 2-5 years, depending on the cultivar your tree happens to be, That part is genetic.
you can purchase dwarfing root stock online from many different nurseries . If you know what variety Apple tree you have they can assist you in selecting a rootstock that will work well in your zone with that particular variety of scionwood. Alternatively some varieties of rootstock send up suckers or root runners from the base of the tree, you can propagate the rootstock by cuttings or air layering then once you have a viable rooted rootstock you can graft the scionwood from the top of the tree to that root stock and have an exact clone of that tree. For grafting you must use that current years growth and it must be dormant. There are many videos on collecting and storing scionwood and grafting apple trees.
O no, you get half of whatever tree you had seed from. All bets are off what it can look like or of it has nice fruit, Most plants need pollen from another individual than itself. For instance, a Gala apple needs pollen from a different kind of apple tree, say Honeycrisp. The mix of genetic material in a given pollen grain and seed ovum will make for quite a lot of variation. Not all daughters are the same from the same parents, are they?
You get a copy exactly of the tree when you do with cutings,but if you get it from a seed then you get a tree complete other properties, because the seed has another genetic properties.
so do you think 7 years from now if you were to root a tree this way, it would still contain any toxin by the time it started to bare fruit? A serious question? The amount of rooting hormone equals the size of a pencil tip. I have news for you. The average consumer eats insecticide right off a store bought piece of fruit ALL THE TIME. if you live in a farming community the spray that is airborne after they treat a field travels for miles and everyone surrounding breathes that in. Your body is a filter, There is far worse. I dont think rooting hormone lasts 7 years and is passed down to fruit in a way that would harm anyone. Sometimes you have to think for yourself and use common sense. For instance, did that rumor come about from someone who's interest lies in the fruit industry? Last thing they want is someone to become self reliant. Or imagine if self supporting reliance goes viral? A lot of people would be out money?? I would say this in closing. If you're using clonex on lettuce that you will eat in 2 months, that probably isn't smart.
It won’t actually be an exact replica. It will be the same variety, BUT be aware, unlike the dwarf fruit trees that is used in orchards, it will grow into a FULL grown tree. That means it will need a lot of careful pruning to maintain it.
