It may be overkill, but when hanging heaving pictures, I often find the stud in the wall. Once I have the stud, I measure the distance to the center of the picture. Then use that measurement for locating the drywall anchor on the other side of the center. That way I have one fastener driven into the stud and the other being a drywall anchor like one of the ones shown in the video. If the drywall anchor fails the fastener in the stud may still keep the picture/mirror from crashing to the floor. It is also helpful to know where the studs are so you are not trying to drive plastic anchors into the stud if there happens to be one where the anchor is intended. There are some fasteners that work with both drywall and wood studs. These have worked well for me.
When u are looking at a wall with picture or mirror in your hands, you are not able to see the hook and get the wire to catch. Here is a tip. Get two drinking straws with the diameter closest to the width of the hook (the part that catches the wire). Insert a straw in each end. The straw will be at an angle away from the wall. Get the picture or mirror and lift high over the straw, bringing down slowly. The straw will guide the wire easily into the end of the hook. Done this many times. Works like a charm
Had trouble w/my concrete entry wall. My son studying to be engineer helped me, but we were off 1/2" too wide. I'm going to try this to see if my understanding of our shortness is correct B4 I proceed. I know it'll work once I get it (carefully!) despite no wire. Thanks! -Azariah/SuburbaKnight Ps 20:1, 6-8; Is 43; Is 38:15-20; John 14:11-21
Thank you, Ive got those hanger hooks and I do have drywall. Now I can finally hang this old mirror that Ive let sit on the ground for the past 4 years.
I just purchased the hooks you used for drywall. If you read the small print, it states that the weight they support is only if the nail is inserted into a stud. Also, why even use the picture wire at all ? I feel the mirror would be sturdier if you placed the hooks on the wall, to catch the D-ring hangers. This would also stop the mirror from moving side to side as pictures always move on wire. I love your show!
I found this helpful and direct. It is important to know the weight of the framed object and the material it's screwed onto. Thanks for the lesson, fellas.
You can use just the drywall, no studs, drywall is much stronger than you might think even though you could punch a hole in it with your hand. With good drywall and the correct anchors you can hang up to 50 pounds on drywall without going through the studs! However, if you make a mistake, or the drywall isn't as strong as it should be, it's not going to hold it and the drywall will break and you'll hear a nice crash as whatever you hung up comes falling down.
The best thing to do if your skill set allows it is to install solid blocking in between the studs behind where the mirror will fasten. Then no matter what you mirror is fastening to structure.
I'm no Tom Silva, but I have mounted many heavy mirrors for a service called TaskRabbit, and I'd like to share some things that might be useful. Tom is right when he says that the first thing you need to know is what the wall is made of. I would add to that: is it an interior or exterior wall? (Exterior meaning that the other side of the wall is the exterior of the building or another apartment unit. Interior walls tend to have more space available behind the drywall or plaster & lath, which increases your fastener options.) I like his use of the toggle bolt with the hook for the plaster wall. This also works on drywall, as long as you steer clear of studs. (Mounting fasteners into wood studs would be great, except that most mirror D-ring spacing won't match your stud spacing. Hollow wall anchors let you put the mirror where you want it. Usually.) Keep in mind that you'll need to drill about a 3/8" hole for a 1/8" toggle bolt, and you'll want to make sure that the upper, round area of the hook you use is large enough to cover the hole. Also, plaster and lath walls tend not to have a lot of clearance behind the lath. Exterior walls especially often have about 3/4" of space or less between the lath and a masonry exterior. The toggle bolt length will have to be just right, assuming there's room for the toggle to deploy. If you've found a good toggle-equivalent solution for exterior plaster walls, please comment! I don't recommend using a wire between the D-rings, because what tends to happen is the weight causes the D-rings to peel up along the edges, creating a sharp edge that can scratch your wall. You see this a lot on antique mirrors that have been hanging on a wire for a long time. Mounting with a wire does allow you to both adjust the position of the mirror left to right, and level it, so if you don't mind the peel factor, have at it. If you want to avoid the peel, you could... Use two fasteners: one for each D-ring. Tom could have also measured the distance between the D-rings, and the distance from the top of the mirror to the D-rings (check them both! don't assume that just because it's from Restoration Hardware, they're accurate.) Then, he could attach the hooks to the wall, and hang the mirror from its D-rings. This method requires you to be careful measuring and drilling, though, because you can't make small adjustments for leveling and positioning. A tip on measuring where your two fasteners will go when hanging a picture or mirror with a wire is this: measure the width of the piece and divide it by two. Let's say you have a 30" wide mirror. Half of that is 15", so that's how far apart the hooks should be. (You can round it by a couple of inches if you have, say, a large map that's 52.75" wide. Just make it 24", especially if you're using a 24" level. :)) To determine the vertical measurement (distance on the wall down from where the top of the frame will be), take the remainder of the width, in our case the other 15", split that in half and measure in on each side 7.5" and mark those spots. Then use your fingers to stretch the wire up from those two points, keeping it level to the top, and mark where the wire lies. Measure down from the top to this point, and that's where the fasteners go. Finally, when you're holding your picture or mirror up to the wall, be really careful not to touch the wall with it, if possible, because walls scratch so easily. Check the back for staples (there are always staples halfway out from the corner protectors on new mirrors. Use a flathead screwdriver and some pliers, and pull 'em out!), or the metal wire itself (love that vinyl-coated wire!), screw-eyes, etc. before you put it on the wall. If I were mounting this mirror, here's how I'd do it. Comments welcome. If only there were a way to demonstrate all this in a video... Drywall: 1. Measure and mark the wall with a LIGHT AND SMALL pencil mark where the top center of the mirror will be. 2. Measure the distance between the D-rings on the mirror. Let's say it's 26-5/8", because it's always a fraction from easy. 3. Measure the distance from the top of the mirror to the top of EACH D-ring. It's gonna be 9-5/16". (But they're both the same! Hooray!) 4. Write these numbers on the back of the mirror. Or somewhere else, because you'll forget them. 5. Using a plastic (non-marking) level with measurement markings printed on the edge, I'd measure straight down (plumb) from the top center mark 9-5/16" and mark it. Then I'd turn the level 90 degrees and measure left and right of that mark half of 26-5/8" (13-5/16"). Now I have two marks level and centered 26-5/8" apart, and 9-5/16" down from the top of the mirror. I'd measure them again to make sure. 7. Next I'd grab my two stud finders, one a magnet, one a traditional electronic capacitance-detecting version, and look for studs behind those marks. Best case scenario: there aren't any. Why? Because I'd like to use the same kind of fastener for both, and if there's just one stud, that might not be possible. There won't be a stud behind each one, because studs aren't (usually) placed 26-5/8" apart. Let's say there are no studs. Hooray #2! 8. For this 30 lb mirror with D-rings, I would use something called an EZ ancor. It's a metal drywall fastener that looks like a big screw, that comes with an actual screw that goes into it. You drill a pilot hole (I do, anyway) with a 1/8" bit to make sure there's about an inch of clearance behind the drywall, then use a Philips head screwdriver to drive in the anchor flush with the wall (tip: drive it almost all the way in, then back it out and cut away some of the dimpling in the drywall. Then drive it back in to get a better, flush installation.) Then, you can drive in the screw (Use the one it came with! Size matters.) Depending on your preference, you could drive the screw in leaving about a 1/4" exposed to rest the D-ring on. Or, you could use the hook like Tom has. In that case, you'd place it on the wall with the hook ledge on your mark, mark the wall through the mounting hole, and drill your pilot hole there to insert the anchor. TIP: After you insert one anchor, measure again with your level to the next mark (26-5/8". This is important, because when you install the anchor, it's usually 1/16" or so off from where your mark was. 9. Install the second anchor and screw or anchor and hook combination. 10. To hang the mirror on the fasteners by yourself, I've found it's possible to just get one D-ring onto a hook/screw, then support the other end while I walk around a dresser/toolbag/dog and attach the second one. 11. Assure yourself that you've led a good, clean life, and deserve for it to be level. Check it with your level. React accordingly. Plaster: Follow steps 1-5 above. 6. I'd use the magnetic stud finder to check for metal on a plumb line along my marks. If there is, I'd shift the position of the mirror off the metal. If there isn't, Hooray #3! 7. I think Tom's toggle and hook is a good option here, so I'd check to see if there's clearance behind the lath for a toggle bolt. That means putting the hook on the wall, marking the mounting hole, then drilling with a 1/8" bit. This is where a straightened paper clip comes in handy. You can probe the hole to see how deep it will go before contacting an obstruction. Or you could drive in a 2.5" screw to see if and where it bottoms out. Do this for both marks. If there's space back there... 8. Drill ONE 3/8" hole and attach the hook with the toggle bolt. If that works, then repeat for the other hole. Use your level to level the hooks an space them 26-5/8" apart. The nice thing about the toggle bolts is that you get a little wiggle room to adjust them before you tighten them down against the wall. 9. Follow steps 10-11 Back to step 7, if there isn't room for a toggle behind the lath, then we're looking at anchoring into the masonry behind it. That means it's time to call a pro, like maybe, Tom Silva.
RE:Bricago. "Also, plaster and lath walls tend not to have a lot of clearance behind the lath. Exterior walls especially often have about 3/4" of space or less between the lath and a masonry exterior." I don't understand this. All the lath&plaster walls I have seen, whether exterior or interior, consist of the normal vertical studs (usually 2x4) with the horizontal lath attached to the surface of the stud. Any exterior brick or masonry is spaced about 1/2" away from the sheathing by using masonry ties. So, you still should have 3.5" - 4" clearance on an interior or exterior wall. Unless you are talking about some kind of a commercial building with concrete block walls and lath applied directly to that.
Thanks. I just did my first heavy mirror hanging (also working for TaskRabbit!), and I used the 100 lb rated Ook hooks with the 3 nails (two Ook hooks for this mirror). It was a plaster wall. Everything felt solid to me, and I like the minimal invasiveness of the Ooks. Do you think this was a good idea? I'm just a little concerned now since Tom did not at all mention using Ooks for the plaster wall. The package says they work in plaster.
Your comment regarding interior/exterior walls is important. Whenever hanging pictures, mirrors and other such items on exterior wall is important to leave an air space between the back of the hanging object and the wall. You need air to be able to circulate otherwise it creates a pocket of dead air where mold can grow.
I am often trying to hang the picture of mirror without any help. I can not see behind the frame to hook the wire on the hook of the hanger. I put a small (Salad) fork over the hanger hook with the handle, UP and the tines around the hook with the handle top surface toward the room , it makes a larger target. hang the wire on the frame over the fork then reach behind the frame and remove the fork making sure that the wire engages the hook. . It makes it easier to connect with the hook than it sounds to describe it.
I think you're mistaken. If you nail those into a stud, they're hold a heck of a lot more than 30 pounds. But I agree on a diy project video, it was a critical error not addressing this.
Hello Tomy. I would like to thank you and your team for everything you teach us. I am Brazilian and I would love to be able to share your videos and tips dubbed in Portuguese with professionals and families from Brazil who do not speak and understand English. For this I am planning to start a channel on this platform with its videos dubbed in Portuguese. It would be an honor to have your self-esteem to share your work and teachings to Brazilians who may be interested. I look forward to your consent to continue with the project. thankful.
If at all possible I would always screw a mirror to the wall using glass plates mounted on the back of the mirror, or if it has rings on the back of the mirror on each side (like in this video), hang these over 2 large-headed screws driven into the wall angled slightly downwards. People only use string or wire because it's easier to do and easier to get the mirror level once up. If it's hung on a wire, and especially just on hooks held by pins (!!), if someone brushes past it or a kid messes with it then it can come off and cause a serious injury.
The best explained, most straightforward and relaxed instructional video that I've seen ! ** ALSO is it ok to simply use JUST masonry nails ? 👇👇 ** wished that you would have ALSO included tips on the best types of hanging cord/wires to use too. But many thanks nevertheless.
Hello, may I please have some help? I am suspending a heavy (11 lbs) antique mirror in my wardrobe, because it is too heavy to set on the glass shelf. (Max 9 lb weight limit ) I have invisible cord to suspend the mirror, hanging from hard ware above. How do I tie it off? It's thick and slippy, slips right out of knots. Please advise! Thank you
Get a professional French cleat hanger - it comes with two parts, one screws into frame, for the other part find holes that are on studs. You can even add epoxy glue between frame and the rail. I have 100 pound mirror hanging like this for years, no issues. They came in multiple lengths, get the longest one that won't protrude beyond the mirror. The key is to get professional version that has U shaped part for the mirror side - those are much stronger and you can even hang cabinets with them. For example hangmanproducts.com/products/professional-french-cleat-hanger
Personally I put plywood (or osb with I feel cheap) behind the drywall whenever I redo a room in my home. That way you can put the painting wherever you want. Albeit it's also to even out the old walls.
Those two holders on the back edge of the mirror are what you're suppose to use to hang the mirror. They're not to sting wire across. Most manufacturers have a sticker saying use these two hangers to mount your mirror to the wall. If my mirror was 35lbs personally I'd use two 45lbs hooks to hold it, over kill yes but the price difference to safeguard a mirror that costs $200 - $500 I'm spending that 15 cents.
For a large, heavy mirror you can also utilize a scarf joint made up of interlocking metal or wood strips. The metal version I've seen is similar to a carpet transition strip, but with a bigger offset along its length. This gets fastened to the back of the frame, with the offset facing down. The mating piece is fastened to the framing with screws, offset facing up. You lift the frame and gently slide it down until you interlock the mating pieces on the wall for continuous, very strong support.
isn't the wood studs installed the other way around behind the drywall, narrow side outward to avoid warping? The 2X4 or not really, just a standard 1.5" X 4" wood stud means you have 4" deep to drill the hole while the screw looks like about 2" long. Sorry, I am not a professional, my opinion may be not that good.
I hanged a very heavy 4ft by 4ft mirror above my couch and it slid off-bashed me in the side of my head. What was I thinking,lol?! The house is a 1901 cottage.
This would be super helpful if it wasn't just aimed at American houses, in British houses a lot of our walls are generally made from brick. Also a 1940's house over here is still considered pretty modern. But there's some good tips in here still so thanks for those!
I want to hang a heavy glass framed picture (I'm talking 5 ft diameter, maybe 15-20 pounds) on a marble chimney breast without drilling a hole in the wall and damaging the marble. Is it even possible? Ceiling cables maybe? Some kind heavy duty adhesive pads?
+Hannah Reno , That usually means the piece is very heavy, and the framer wants you to use two separate hooks- one for each side. That reduces the inward pulling stress on the frame.
This is for older houses. Do not attempt this unless you know what is behind your drywall. Especially if your house is built in the last 40 years This is insanity. Why use drywall plugs if there's wood behind the drywall. Why not screw into the wood? Plugs are designed for the spaces in between the studs where you can't screw into the wood. They are only good for low weights at best, prone to failure and damage the drywall even when they don't fail. Hanging something heavy from the drywall is never a good idea. Depending on where you live, and building codes, most houses built in the last 40 years are built differently and have wooden studs spaced every 16 or 24 inches behind the drywall. Get a stud finder and screw directly into the stud.
Shane is correct!! As a carpenter, I fasten my mirrors and heavy shelves to the studs behind the drywall. Professional, solid, and you will never, ever wonder if it will fall out!!! By a stud finder or use a hammmer. Start from an electrical outlet and measure to see if the studs are 16" or 24" on center.
we have made more than 500pcs heavy mirror stock for a USA customer, and we didnot find the cutomer in 2020, if any one need the mirrors, please kindly contack us , thank you.
Oh dear me, that looks like an accident waiting to happen..... PLEASE do not hand anything above the size of a 10x8 photo frame on those pin nail cheap hooks ...
It's the dead of night. Everyone's sound asleep. CRASH!!! SHATTER!!! This would eventually come down. It's just a matter of physics and time. Those skinny little nails have very little surface area and they're in dry wall. Over time, the weight of the 30 pound mirror begins to compress the drywall material. Give enough time and movement (Like the kind you get when cleaning the mirror) it's coming down. You're 100% correct, light (And easily replaceable) stuff only. Tommy is dead wrong on this one.
Keep in mind those “ cheap hangers” are rated and using common sense for those skeptics, the anchoring nails are nailed downward (perpendicular), which will be stronger and more secured to hold the mirror up, unlike nails that go straight horizontal into the Sheetrock !!!
I am surprised that Tom used those relatively cheap hangers to hang a supposedly heavy mirror on dry-wall. I can only assume that manufacturers pay them to plug their merchandise, no pun intended folks.
www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/00081591/ This Mirror from Ikea is about 60lbs and fell off my wall. I would have liked some instructions on how best to hang this by reinforcing my wall.
I have that same exact mirror (bought mine from Ikea too). I used these heavy duty anchors and it's been hanging flawlessly for over a year. www.walmart.com/ip/HILLMAN-FASTENERS-No-Stud-Picture-Hanger-Extra-Heavy-Duty-200-Lb/45817394?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=2419&adid=22222222227033128336&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=76977148751&wl4=pla-133671615911&wl5=9030455&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113134491&wl11=online&wl12=45817394&wl13=&veh=sem
If you are going to hang a mirror that heavy, it might be best to build a new house specifically to support your mirror. It might seem ridiculous or like over-kill but you will thank me down the line. I learned the hard way!
Did anyone else notice that the level was decently off when he made his marking? Even with the camera angle, you can see at the bottom of the mirror that it’s off at the end. Great instructional video either way, i’m just nit picking.
