Wow, some very impressive drywall anchors! Thanks to everyone for all of your video suggestions, including this one! Best regards, Todd Products Tested In This Video (in no particular order): EZ Anchor: amzn.to/2Ymcy9N Toggler High Performance: amzn.to/3j2EqrA Toggler SnapSkru: amzn.to/3l4MZnL EZ Anchor (metal): amzn.to/2QhF6gs E-Z Ancor Toggle: amzn.to/32iRbr5 Blue Hawk Toggle Bolts: amzn.to/2QgNj4p
@@raulsanchez4869 WINGIT, lets make a fixing 50 times bigger than any other fixing in plasterboard, but it only holds the same weight, plasterboard cannot hold any more weight than what Bullfix Plasterboard fixings are rated at. We tested what Weight Plasterboard could take as Tensile, shear and Cantilever loads at University Labs. So for its size, it is the strongest Plasterboard fixing on the market.
You should really consider making charts or graphics with your results available for later, I'd love to have some of these easily available to check against what they have at the hardware store....
I have seriously been struggling trying to find a “decent” drywall anchor and have been through sooooooo many different options and they’ve all been terrible. Then I thought to myself “I wonder if that one RU-vid guy has done a video on anchors.” - and well, you do! Man, this video was seriously a life saver.
Big plastic screws for your general purpose non critical if fails type stuff. Snap toggles for stuff that is critical if it fails, use a screw driver not the impact when running the screw into the anchor initially, after that you can use the impact. If both of those are not acceptable, cut the wall open and block behind it. It is ok to add anchors if you think they are needed.
As someone who’s done my fair share of construction, mostly remodel, I’ve wondered many times, which sheet rock anchor would actually work! This was so informative! Thank you! And once again I am astonished at the lengths you go to, too test these products! Building all those 16 by 16” box’s! Securing the sheet rock to them, not with just 4 screws! Nope gotta be 8! Sheet rock from same batch! Invent special tools o test with! You are one of a kind my friend! What consumer reports should aspire to be! Don’t you ever change! Just a joy to watch! I know I’m gushing, but damn it! You’ve earned it! Fantastic job! And once again, THANKYOU!
So? What do you think of the results? I didn't really find too much to be surprised about, though there were a couple anchor types I'd never seen. The smallest and cheapest hold less weight, the bigger toggle types hold more.
I now official feel like a total geek and old. I just spent almost 20 mins watching a video about drywall anchors. My grandfather would be proud. I love PF's presentation style in all the videos.
It's not that odd, especally if you've used some of the tested anchors before. EZ Ancor Dyrwall and Stud Anchor are my gotos but mine are branded Ramset but the stud bit is useless on hardwood. Still it's better than the first version that's just plastic & fails to penetrate 1950's composite drywall, even if the metal it's made from is just potmetal.
The fact that you went through so much planning and put in so much work to get accurate test results is amazing. I think I speak for everyone when I say I appreciate the work you put in to these tests. You are the best Todd. Thank you.
As a former professional video editor -- WOW!! Nice job! Most folks will NEVER know how much time this took you to pull together!! Nicely done and very informative!!
This man earns lots of money through these video's. this video alone has net him 10500-17500 dollar. And thats from youtube ad views only. I bet he gets a lot of sponsor deals from brands too, altrhough not this video.
@@leverloos I dont think he gets any sponsorship money. Views, sure, but well deserved. From what I can see, a lot of ‘premium’ brands get thoroughly shown up as inferior in many of the videos - and wouldn’t agree to be a sponsor. The tests truly seem to be as fair as possible also - a real engineering feat.
@@DantHimself What do you mean. He gets paid from people watching ads. the numbers I posted was the expected payout for a video with the amount of views this one has.
I was about to comment that he was more testing the strength of the drywall rather than the anchors pullout capacity. Glad someone commented before I made an ass of myself.
People just dont appreciate your older videos. the TIME to test each anchor 3x?!?! and just the setup and tear down of each test! It's crazy but you do it! you always have and I REALLY appreciate you. THANK YOU!
I've seen drywall anchor tests before, but never this thorough. I think the biggest thing I can take from this is an understanding that drywall anchors can definitely hold more than I had assumed.
Abbreviated Reviews that’s what’s known in the field of engineering as a factor of safety. Usually in the us the goal is a factor of safety of 2. Meaning it can withstand double what you load it with. In the uk (or Europe can’t remember) I think it’s like 6 or 8 not 2
@@TGears314 I'm an aerospace engineer who's worked with groups all over the world. I've yet to see safety factors be consistently higher than the US's.
I'm an electrician and I just watched this whole video, good testing methods, and glad you used multiple trials on each anchor , thanks man this will definitely help me
I don't see how being an electrician is relevant to the rest of your comment. Are electricians experts on testing methodology? Do electricians use drywall anchors a lot?
Out of all the youtube testers that exist, you're my favorite. I love the way you list and control all of your variables so well, show multiple views of the failures taking place, and summarize with charted data. While product reviews are a great source, data is king. And you are a data wizard.
I wish there was a Nobel prize for a "common man" doing extraordinary things. You have definitely elevated the unsung farmer to level that we all need to appreciate. You my friend are the best of us!
I just want to note that most drywall repair men will push anchors into the wall and leave them there. Pushing them through and patching that hole causes less damage than pulling them out, especially for toggles (obviously). Since it's hard to tell what kind of anchor is used, it's safer to just push all of them through.
You wouldn't at least try to unscrew the ones that have that ability? That seems like it would cause far less damage than what's possible with knocking them through and blowing out the back side of your drywall.
"Do you care about the acidity of the orange juice? (In case this is going to wear your teeth faster.) Do you care about the grams of sugar in the orange juice? (In case this is going to give you diabetes faster.) Do you care about organic oranges or not? (In case this is going to give you cancer faster.)"
As a man that likes to do things right the first time and works within a budget these videos have been pure gold in selecting the right tools hardware and products needed. I will always check your channel before picking up some products. Thank you brother and keep up the great work.
I get the point you're making but... i wouldnt call this scientific research lol i mean its using scientific methods but hes just testing products that have already been designed, engineered and tested by the manufacturers. Once again, i believe this guys a legend for making this content for the consumers and don't mean to disrespect. Also, there's lots of claimed "science" channels on youtube that are garbage, you just have to find the good ones.
Standing in Home Depot watching this video! This is literally one of the most helpful videos I’ve seen on RU-vid. We create content as well and are very impressed with the level of work you put into your videos! Thanks again
My goodness! I so appreciate the hard work and detail in this well thought out video. I wish I had seen your video first before watching a few other videos that left me at little frustrated (and bored!). Thank you! I subscribed to your channel and look forward to seeing more.
I know this video is a few years old but thank you! I just bought some blue hawk toggle bolts. And after realizing how big the hole was I needed to drill I was a little worried. But now it seems to be a good fit for what I will be using them for. Thank you! This video was impressive
straight edge around it carefully or use a flat screwdriver to loosen/break the drywall around it, then hammer/punch it into the wall. That way the rip/splay will be solely on the inside of the wall and keep your patch/cover to a minimum.
A great trick for smaller holes like an intentionally removed anchor is to give the drywall a good tap with a ball-peen hammer. The rounded over dent is the right size and provides a nice rounded transition between the filler and the drywall paper.
This whole channel is a labor of love and I think it's amazing you take the time and effort to make content that helps people save time and money! Amazing!!
Once again PM had a review on what I was looking to buy. Love this channel. Hope he makes millions. He's a one man show worth so much more than Consumer Reports.
Was this helpful! I am just starting a large wall hanging project. Minimal damage with maximum weight holding ability is what i am looking for. Thanks for the help. I really find this channel invaluable, i recommend it to folks daily.
They’re very well controlled. It’s a great guide to getting valid comparative test results with basic equipment, something I’ve had to rely on before now.
I cant believe the amount of steps and details you have done to record this video, but simply it makes it one of the best YT tests ever - not just in the DIY category. Thank you so so much.
I love how often you do the work to answer practical questions I already had. I seriously check your channel sometimes before I order stuff or go to the store.
@The RebTek Channel it would be so easy for me to paste a link but...I really don't care that much what you think of me. So sad to see pointless heatred though
..... and by the way.... the classic toggle bolt need not cause any more damage on removal than on installation. Simply unscrew the screw portion from the winged portion, an let the wing drop behind the wall. The size of the original hole is all that needs repair!
Which is what makes the snap toggle great if you need to take something down, the threads remain to reinstall. Depends on the application. A little damage or more damage means little. Takes the same amount of work to fix.
This is something I never would have thought of suggesting for you to do but perhaps has been the most "relevant to me" test you have done. Well done and thank you!
Absolutely fantastic job. Going to be hanging some sheet metal panels sheetrock wall where there are no studs and this is absolutely the best video I could have watched. Thank you so much for all your time, effort and expense. Your presentations are flawless and very professionally done. Thank you
the fact it took over 180lbs to dislodge drywall fasteners is impressive. I think in practical use it would never fail, since I doubt most people are going to hang the weight of a full grown man from just drywall. I know which I'd use from now on.
As long as the load is constant, all is fine. The problem with drywall is the working loose of the fasteners with changing load direction and weight..... Typical is a toilet paper holder, where the absolute load is minimal, but most I have seen after a time are loose.
Practical use is not loading it with over half the weight it's rated for. If it says 25 pounds don't put more than like 12 on and you'll be good. Drywall sucks to attach things to.the good thing is most of this stuff is just used to attach pictures. Anything for serious weight like a TV or what have you you'll want to hit a stud and forgo the anchors entirely.
Great video! Several items to note: 1. gypsum board (GB, drywall) typically has a "grain" that will affect anchor strength 2. "ultra-light" GB will have less strength than a more dense GB (e.g. fire rated) 3. drywall anchors almost always fail catastrophically - that is to say whatever is mounted will come down very quickly 4. toilet paper roll holders will fail eventually - use wood blocking for the best prevention 5. always secure heavy items such as televisions, furniture anchors into studs or blocking. 6. be cautious about using any of these anchors for ceiling applications (Re: No. 3 above) and 7. the soft plastic drywall/masonry anchors that come with nearly every wall/ceiling item are the worst. Toss them and use better anchors.
I really like the self tapping split plastic ones. You can get them absolutely flush with the surface and paint over them without drips. And a screw can be removed and inserted again. I usually replace all cheap push in anchors with the plastic screw ones prior to painting (when the owner wants to keep the holes). Also you might be surprised at how well the Monkey Hook type things work.
I always see those fail and then they leave a nice hole for me to shove a good old-fashioned toggle bolt through. Long-term toggle bolts hold up the best among the cheaper anchors.
I'm an analytical biochemist. This is how all of science works- from something as simple as this all the way up to computers and rocket tech and climate science. EVERYTHING that is widely accepted fact in the scientific community is because there are a zillion examples of research papers that are basically this video providing strong evidence that things are true. This is why it's so infuriating to anyone with an education when people "don't believe in" certain areas of science because they contradict some political ideology. Tough shit, your ideology was wrong. Adapt. Human beings 1000 years from now are going to view today's Republicans as far worse than we view Nazis or Ghengis Kahn with their flat out denial of reality when it comes to climate science. Billions are going to die because of their narcissism and greed.
I love your videos so much, that I don’t care and probably will never care about drywall anchors in any way shape or form. I just love how thorough you are, but it’s never drawn out either! You are very detailed but stay right on topic all the time, and each of your videos flow very well! Thank you for making them.
Answering questions we never thought to answer, providing us with valuable information we can use to make informed decisions in the real world. Thank you Todd.
An observation I made is that in the case of some of the toggle, for instance, the snap toggle, the orientation of the bar with respect to the load seems to have a lot to do with how it performs in the vertical weight pull. Of course, another observation is that the most weight each anchor is rated for, the more damage done to the drywall when it fails. I'm impressed with the approach and the amount of effort you put into your tests. Very valuable information!
Wow , big effort mate , i cannot even imagine how long it took to set all this up let alone do the testing , ten out of ten mate and well done as always .
I recently put up some track shelving in my home and remembered you did this comparison. It was essential in helping me choose the right anchor. You have THE BEST product comparisons. You spend your money and days of your time so we don't have to. Thank you!
You are, of course, correct. Except when installing safety grab bars. Suppose I install some for my mom who doesn't weigh that much but a few years later my dad is using them. Yeah, he might easily put a couple a hundred pounds of force on one. Maybe more when you consider inertia. I want as much holding power as possible.
I’ve seen several of your amazing videos and am in awe of the time and effort you put into each one. I appreciate the objective information and lack of selling. You have an appreciative new subscriber.
As a contractor I really like the Toggler Snapskru because there's no pre drilling needed. They are self drilling, which saves a lot of time. I've hung some HUGE mirrors with these and never had a problem. Last mirror I hung with them was in a frame and measured roughly 16 ft in width by 6 ft in height. 4 Snapskrus did the job flawlessly and I didn't need to change bits to drill holes.
You are hanging the mirrors by drywall anchors and not into studs, right? If so, then roughly what was the weight of one of the heavy mirrors. How many anchors into the drywall did you use and where did you place them around the mirror? I've hung a 30 lb mirror roughly 4 ft by 3 ft on drywall for 22 years by two simple L shaped hooks an inch apart, each in simple plastic plugs, and centered to the mirror. It has one very similar L shape hook into a simple plug below it, turned upside down as if going to support a tiny shelf an inch or so wide, just enough to brace the mirror, but not touching the mirror by 1/8th of an inch, just to see if the mirror would sag onto it. And it hasn't yet!
@@bobp5715 the biggest I've hung was roughly 8 ft wide and 16 ft tall, plus a sizable frame (behind a fountain in the foyer of a 10k sq ft house). I used 4 snapscrus to bear the weight. Probably 250 lbs? Dunno for sure as I didn't weigh the mirror, but it took two of us to safely hang it. I'm a remodeling contractor by trade, and have hung many other things with these and love them. I prefer to use studs when available of course, but sometimes you just can't.
That's impressive! Roughly 62 lbs per snapskrus anchor in drywall, placed strategically so distributing the weight. Where the drywall is reinforced and buttressed as it were by the screws that fasten the drywall to the studs, giving the drywall greater supportive strength. And must have happened years ago and you've never heard from them that things went wrong or you would have mentioned that. Nice !!!!!!! Some here say that drywall has on average 160 lbs strength capability per the best and near best anchors. I would imagine what helps that are wider anchors in the drilled hole. The blue hawk toggle anchor just has the screw in the drilled hole and probably accounts for its poorer performance in the vertical drywall test but near best in the horizontal drywall test. That's why I put an appropriate length and width anchor in with the blue hawk type toggle anchor when I used them. Making the blue hawk type toggle anchor one of the best if not quickest and easiest to use.
Your methodology as captured in this video is outstanding. Tremendously valuable resource. Can't thank you enough for sharing this excellent work with other hobbyists.
@DefinitelyNotDan Yeah! hours should have 100 minutes and minutes should have 100 seconds and days should have 10 hours and years should have 100 days! Off with their heads! What was it the dormouse said again?
@DefinitelyNotDan Oh wow. Your actually serious about calling it a communist thing.. I'm not going to converse with insane people. Particularly when they'll defend such a ridiculous measuring system.
Cue Foo Fighters, There goes our hero watch him with those studs... seriously though, I've recently decided to learn basic skills having to do with diy home projects...not everyone learns the same, I love learning but as teaching methods often vary ...the learning experience can be wonderful or that of a letdown. I've been inudating myself with RU-vid vids and i've not yet found 3 for me to save / serve as my "go to" - up until now. I love his teaching style and am certain that I'll soon be confident in my ability (as a beginner) to upgrade my space at home with skills that will produce sustainable results. Subscribed🛠
The metal screw type anchors are my favorite of the ones I've used thanks to impressive ease of installation and high weight bearing capacity. As long as you're within their weight rating, and even sometimes quite a lot over them as shown by this testing, you basically don't need to worry about it. Even with things that hang away from the wall.
I'm still working off the large supply of the early-version plastic EZ Anchor screw type anchors I bought years ago. I found out early on that the metal screws provided were a bit large, so I picked up a box of smaller-diameter screws. As you said, the ease of installation is an important feature of these, along with the ease of carrying them, storing them, etc. With a little trial and error, I found that they can be installed almost perfectly flush, and I never had any problem with them. When you're done with them, you just unscrew them, and end up with an easily-repaired hole. Some of the toggles need to be cut out and pushed through, and that's a pain in the rear. -- One question occurred to me during this video. Who TF tries to mount something more than about 20 pounds on one, solitary drywall anchor?!? When a client wants to mount something too heavy, I tell them that they can't mount it there, unless there happens to be a stud behind that location. Or else, I'll suggest a mounting board that extends between two studs. Old drywall isn't as strong as new drywall-- the paper gets dried out and brittle, and maybe the gypsum in it has been exposed to some mild water damage. Too many variables. -- Another thing that wasn't mentioned is that with the screw-in types, you still have to find the studs, at least approximately. If you screw one of those in over a stud, the forward progress will stop at the stud, and the threads will just pull the paper and gypsum outward.
I agree, and they’re getting increasingly difficult to find. I used to use those plastic toggle screws but I found that they loosen over time.. I like something behind the wall to anchor it.
I'll be installing guitar hangers on the wall in my den and this makes me a lot more comfortable about using wall anchors. Thanks for the dedication to full and proper testing. I've been subscribed for quite a while and went looking for this video as I guessed it would be in your library. Bravo!!
@@ProjectFarm yes, please do this test! Hss, cobalt, rolled, ground, masonry.... Longevity, efficiency, accuracy, strength (some are really brittle) Very good idea! Wont be overly relevant to us in UK but some brands will transfer like DeWalt for example.
I'm just a college student. I don't know if these videos will ever be of any help to me, but I really enjoy watching them while having dinner. Much appreciated.
Good to see a decent strength test on these anchors, since you can't always take the ratings on them for granted. Some exaggerate their strength, some underrate them. That said, It would have been nice to see a comparison of the damage they leave behind if they DON'T fail. Failure damage is rarely, if ever, a factor I think about when choosing an anchor, as if chosen and used properly they shouldn't fail. However, the damage they leave behind when you no longer need them, is a factor. Personally, I rarely use anything other than triple-grip plugs, which are like a better version of the expanding plug, or the zip toggles for high strength. The zip toggles also have the advantage of staying in place if you remove the bolt, meaning you can remove and reinstall the object if needed, quite easily.
As a fairly new home owner with a father-in-law who keeps coming over and "installing" and "fixing" shit while I'm at work, this has become my new favorite channel.
I thank you for this excellant video. The production quality, editing, descriptive visuals, and detailed description are amazing. I spent time in an industrial laboratory performing "destructive" testing like this and your process pretty much mirrors what we used in the lab. Extra kudos on the final choice. Last time I bought anchors I looked at everything on display and bought the design you rated as the best balance between performance and cost. I'd be surprised if mechanical engineering is not your day job.
I always questioned the validity of the claimed weight limits. This really gives me a lot more faith in these things. Thanks for the great test results
Great work. I have used all of the above. The hollow wall anchor sometimes does not bend and expand like it is intended to do. It has happened enough to where I just do not use them any longer. That type did seem to deploy as it should in your test. I appreciate your scientific approach to testing.
As an engineer, that's called the factor of safety. A good example would be elevator weight capacities. The sign reads "MAX CAPACITY: 3800LBS" when in reality the steel cables are capable of hold upwards of 50,000 lbs. Standard FOS for elevator cables is 11x. It just plans ahead and prevents any serious issues if either the cables begin to weaken over time, or a large number of people cram into an elevator. You could claim that your drywall anchor will hold 200lb max -which might be the true capacity- but if someone hangs something that's 198lbs and it fails, you put yourself in a tricky legal situation. These FOS are in place for both manufacturer and consumer safety. Sure, you can push the limits, but you're on your own! 🙂
@@ProjectFarm It would have been an interesting compare. I'm not sure how that performance would translate to actual use though since a screw can hold a lot in the short term but a few days later whatever you hung up might be on the floor. It looks like what was tested will at least hold up to what it is rated for.
As a professional engineer I salute your excellent testing techniques and admire your dedication to what must be lengthy preparation. Like most farmers I know, you’re smart enough to be an engineer but wise enough not to be. Keep up the good work!
Great content. I've used all of these anchors. My current favorite is the snap toggle for two reasons 1) has the highest rating (even though it failed in your test it still has the best) 2) the screw can be removed and the anchor reused in the same location.
If you are just hanging pictures, even relatively heavy ones, nothing beats Monkey Hooks. Ease of installation (no tool necessary!), holding power, minimal damage when removed, etc. Would love to see a test like this of their performance.
