I think the lag bolt threads were still in tact, but he stripped the wood or drywall out because he missed the stud. Not sure why you would have used a bolt that large and a torque gun anyway. That's asking for trouble.
I ran a gas line, 2 electrical circuits and installed a gas furnace and central air conditioner in my garage 15 years ago. a little pricey but never regretted it. makes working out there enjoyable.
Atta boy Richard. Infrared Heat is the bomb. Once the shop warms up it will last for hours as all the heat radiates back into the space from all objects that picked up the heat. Unlike forced air which just drifts away. HVAC contractor here.
I have a MR Heater gas forced air unit that hangs from the ceiling with vent out the roof. You get very dry heat with no gas fumes, and heats much faster, and equally throughout the garage. Even on a 20 degree day, my garage is warmed up to 65 in 15 minutes. I also lack insulation on my garage door and roof. The heater installed here is more of a spot heater, good for warehouse doors.
It is critical that the flame source be at least 18 inches off the floor to prevent FIRES, according to our Fire Dept! That's why Insurance Companies don't like them! We have all seen floor heaters (kerosene/Diesel/Propane/Potbelly Stove etc) used to heat garages. Once I learned this I threw our Kerosene Heater in the Garbage that night and replaced it with a Wall Mounted Infrared Natural Gas Heater, the best move I ever made. That Heater has been in four different houses and was converted to propane because our current house doesn't have NG in the garage. Now after 15 years I replace it with a new Infrared Propane Heater. I highly recommend them.
One or two electric floor plug in convection heaters would, to me, be the better option. Eliminates need for pipe work and vent work. Insulating above attic is key of course.
If you have the circuits for it. One convection heater will usually fully load a 15A circuit (with some safety margin of course), so you basically need 2 dedicated circuits.
Woodstove for me. Have place to heat a pot of coffee. A lot less expense than gas, propane, or electric. Also gives a place to burn up unwanted scrap. But then again I have a lot of scrap from remodeling and framing jobs. I don't know, just a better heat in my opinion.
Too close and the thing will never run, too far and it will always run. Best to have it somewhere midway in similar proximity to the main workspace distance. Also, that heater looked rather small for that two car garage considering that it is coming from above where the majority of heat will stay.
Since it’s a radiant heater, heat should not come directly to the t stat right away. It will warm the objects first, then it will heat the air from those objects until the room is totally warmed. Actually smart of him to place it there.
I've installed and serviced Radiant and unit heaters, as a commercial HVAC technician. On Radiant heaters, though more efficient on the gas use. I prefer a Hanging unit heater. The fan/ Heat exchanger will not get clogged as mentioned, not going to happen, ever. Dust will accumulate on the heat exchanger surface that's about it. blow it off in the fall and turn that sucker on and enjoy. Working under and around radiant heaters in a garage setting with high ceilings.. those guys suffer with the bays even slightly open.
Not sure why you would put the thermostat that close to the unit heater - going to be cold on the other side of the garage all the time, since it 's registering the heat from just a few feet away.
Robert Amos IV Not quite. The temperature gradient in the room will be more uniform with the heat radiated from the floor rather than to the floor. as any objects between the radiant heater and the floor will absorb the heat making the floor temp nonuniform. For new construction, I would definitely go with pex in the slab. However, that is not an easy retrofit.
I said same goal. Heating objects also radiates heat. If you want to get fully technical, heating the top of woodworking equipment might actually do better if you use the shop for limited hours because heating the floor would take a long time to get the equipment heated up so the occupants actually felt that heat. If it was running 24/7 sure, but I would assume this is a part time operation.
Average winter temp. in Akron is a few degrees above and below freezing. So not really all that cold so this might do the job. Where I live you this would probably heat a tiny shack. Strangely most of all the commercial warehouse garages etc here have large natural gas fan-driven heaters that are noticeably noisy when the unit starts a heating cycle. They are slightly larger than a small fridge but if it ever fell on someone it would kill them. The upside of these Infrared units is that they heat the floor or whatever they are pointed at which then heats the air above it. Plus apparently, they are dramatically more efficient up to 75% more.
I wonder how this worked out. Is the entire shop heated evenly? For some reason I'm thinking NO. When you see these there are generally at least a couple of them, not just one for a space that large. I'm skeptical.
In my 1,000 sqft detached shop, 30,000 btu is not enough. I have a convection type Mr. Heater propane wall mount unit and it runs all day long. The shop is not insulated so that would help.
These types of Heaters are Space Heaters like in Home Depots over the Registers.. This Will Not Heat That Garage.. he should of installed a Low BTU Boiler and ran Flex to Duct Work and ran a Couple Runs of Flex and Registers. but what do i know i only did HVAC For 10 years. this is a waste of time and money.
@@Dominick_Calvitto. that's incorrect and i say this from first hand experience. I had an HVAC guy install the same exact unit installed in my attached, finished and oversize garage that was 31x28 with 11' ceilings in Kansas. Kept my garage at 68-70 all winter long with zero issues and was a nice even heat across the whole garage. And no, it didn't run all day long to maintain that temperature either. Zero condensation anywhere and no fumes. Worked amazing.
We installed a Mitsubishi Mini-split in our garage several years ago, air conditioned and dehumidifier and , wow, a heater. Low humidity in the heat of summer in Florida. Operating costs at a minimum. Be sure to insulate the door and ceiling. I give it a three thumbs up. 👍👍👍. 12-19-21
That's great they dont show the installing pipes I think it's more important to show where and how to secure and that thermostat is perfect where it is under the heat
@@SkremoMcThrftsto I have been a HVAC/R contractor for 35 years. For four of those years I taught a heat pump class at a local tech school. The balance point is 35. Below that you will need supplemental heat. The heat of compression doesn't change with variable speed. There just isn't enough heat in the air below that temp to make it efficient to run. So explain to me exactly what you are talking about.
Heated floors, wow. I have not heard this since I was about 10 years old living at home with my parents and my dad installed water heated pipes in the basement in Illinois, Chicago area. That was 68 years ago. The absolute best heat and it never caught on, never. As I said, wow.
Even if short scrapwood, at least center it over your two outer wall 'studs.' Guys obviously into projects, could have put horizontal studs over drywall and screws into those. Entire support system would be hidden behind scrap piece.
yeah he makes it look easy... 5 minute install too...i don;t know how he got all those fancy corner woodwork and brackets done. Thermostat was two screws seamless...must have be RF with batteries...lol
@@killingoldgrowthsince I doubt it, lots of pukes out there with similar aspirations. Mostly lowlifes with beer guts who could not get out of there own way if it was life or death. Mid fifties, wanna be woodworkers. Pukes! Know what I mean.
As do I. I placed a fan to blow across the exhaust pipe below the choke plate. Barely any coals, 18℉ outside, too warm inside. I also have a small AC unit close to where I do most of my work to keep me comfortable during the summers. Correct, I am a wimpy old man.
That's not the point of the video but if left on continuously with the thermostat it probably can take the chill off enough to work in there especially if the walls and ceiling are insulated and the sale on the garage door are working well
I live in the winters where it gets 25 to 28ﾟ I use a oil heater from home depot is home depot it cost a $120 I plug it into the wall bam bam job done my garage never gets below 65 degrees
In the midwest (missouri) natural gas is supplied to residential properties at high pressure. The gas goes through the meter and then is regulated down to just 3-4#'s of pressure. If there is any distance between the separate garage and home, there will not be enough pressure to fire that heater or a furnace. Check your local gas supplier.
My house all electric. I wonder if this will work on barbecue grill gas or the company makes one that does. Electric heaters too costly to run. Electric heaters in basement cost more to run in winter than two heat pumps that heats and cools the whole rest of the house all year. Cost prohibitive for instal!ing another heat pump just for the garage. I really need to invest in converting the basement to heat pump to use the area in winter first. 1-1/2 to 2 ton unit should do the trick
My HVAC sub made same recommendation for my professional woodworking shop. Be careful of proximity and directional orientation of radiant source to wooden workpieces. Intense heat can quickly warp wood when one surface absorbs the radiant heat directly. I ended up switching to unit heater. Expensive mistake.
Agreed. I was a commercial HVAC technician for over 15 years, and serviced many different kinds of radiant and hanging heaters. Unit heater is the way to go. Especially in a shop that big . I have a small garage/Workshop and would never hang a radiant heater, ever. Got a small Modine i pulled from a small job and my garage = awesome.
@@michael.schuler Most definitely. Super efficient. Prices for ductless mini-splits in north america leave a little bit to be desired. but hands down cost per BTU is phenomenal.
I've owned a Enerco garage heater I purchased in 1993. Very easy to install and operate. Been a wonderful and reliable heater. After all these years of use it's is in need is a new control module. Any one knowing where to get one please reply. Thanks
Never use a tubing cutter to remove plastic wrap. Use a knife at an angle. Even the slightest score in the copper (especially if it's continuous all the way around) will weaken it to the point where it could easily separate under minimal stress, and leak.
I see a fire hazard with sawdust in the air. A boiler outside the room and either baseboard hot water heat or forced air over the hot water heat exchanger.
Very disappointed with TOH on this one. I live between Akron and Cleveland, and several years ago I made the mistake of installing one of these unvented gas heaters in my garage workshop. The moisture it created was devastating to my tools. That small vent installed in the workshop will not solve the moisture problem. A vented radiant tube heater would have been a much better option.
That little heater will be slow to heat the shop. I live in the same climate zone and use a 110KBTU kerosene jet heater in a 2.5 car uninsulated shop. Even in subzero temps in half an hour everything is toasty. I wired in a thermostat and it only runs 5 mins every half hour after that initial warming period.
@@AngelousSpike As far as I know there is an open flame covering the perforated surface of the ceramic element. I highly doubt the gas heating of that element (by open flame) can convert 100% to infrared. Much of the gas exhaust is hot carbon dioxide air and water vapor, mixing and heating the surrounding air. Radiant tube heaters efficiency is only 60%, I could not find the numbers for ceramic heaters.
@@marijak3267 Doubt no more, my friend! Infrared heat is also known as 'Radiant heat'. The flame you mention heats the ceramic upp and since the ceramic isn't combustable - the only way for it to lose all the heat it's receiving is to radiate it outward in all directions. The energy frequensies emitted by the photons leaving the ceramic surface is basically "only" within the infrared spectrum. Pardon my bordom inducing rant, hehe. That being said - I still don't think that this type of heater is a good longterm solution do to the ease of condensation along the border of the rays, where hot meets cold. The installation was also sloppy. I mean - why didn't they just extend the plywood another 8 inches or so, still leaving a big air gap, and try to hide those hideous thing-a-majiggs behind that? I know that this is "just" a 'shop, and they probably just wanted to knock this out fast. But when you're making instructional videos that gets hundreds of thousands of views - shouldn't you strive to go that extra... Inch?
@@gustavlarsson7494 Off course this is what I meant; radiant heat. But the element won't 100% convert the convective heat (from burning gas) to radiant heat. I was trying to explain that towards the previous comment, this heater does warm the air, not just surfaces through radiant heat.
THAT IS NOT GOING TO HEAT THAT GARAGE SORRY WRONG TYPE OF HEATER.THAT GUY JUST WASTED A BUNCH OF MONEY.. I HAVE A SOLUTION.. DON'T GO IN THE GARAGE IN THE WINTER ~
Natural gas and propane emit water as one of their by-products of burning. You need to vent that moist air out if possible and you also need to admit a little combustion air so you don't deplete all the oxygen in the room.
I was told that gas fumes from mowers & gas cans are low to the ground. Heaters up high eliminates the chance of flame from heater being ignited by gas fumes.
Roger has never let me down - Till this one. Mr Heater no longer has this unit on their website likely because it is unsafe to use indoors. Refer to: www.abe.iastate.edu/extension-and-outreach/carbon-monoxide-poisoning-unvented-gas-space-heating-appliances-aen-204/ For indoor shop application, you should utilize a heater similar to: www.modinehvac.com/products/unit-heaters/residential-hot-dawg-series/hot-dawg-separated-combustion-hds/ It is much safer and will provide must more even heat throughout the space. Another big advantage is that there will be an opening for cold air to blow into the space.
Yes it is good piping, however it must be bonded to be legal if your house were to be struck by lightning this gas pipe is known to split and catch fire and if it’s not bonded than insurance will deny any claim
It is so sad. Why couldn’t you say what the clearance is going to be you guys since Nora Abram left? I’ve turned into like a paint with colors thing you don’t help us in the industry anymore. The guys that are out doing this for a living and that’s what you are, you’re not a home and garden you’re this old house you show how things are really done disappointed in the last couple years maybe the last 10 years
I'm not sure why heaters are suddenly being installed up on ceilings. My preference is for oil filled electric heaters, not very efficient but in a workshop the safest.
I love that your protection while using a cordless drill OSHA would be so proud. Also this guy needs to upgrade torque screws then he doesn’t need to double tap this work
That isn't how infrared works. You basically are using it to warm the concrete, which is where you get the warmth in the room from. It also works directed at objects, but concrete/stone/etc is the typical target.
