I've had my 345 now for 20 years. And I cut about 8 to 10 cord of wood every year. That saw in my opinion is the best. All I have ever done to it was change chains. Spurs. Barss plugs. And fuel line once. Oh and the brake handle. The plastic dogs wore Off it. That's 20 years of running it. I'm one of those die hard fans. Thanks for the video. I will tear ti down and check my base bolts didn't know about that.
Clutch tool is part number 502 54 16-01. Thanks for the video, had to pause a couple of times to get notes. This style of video on different saws is something I'd watch on a regular basis.
Why do you think Milwaukee is the best? I have Milwaukee and Dewalt don’t see any difference but love them both. My buddy got a snap-on and that one you can actually loosen the bolt by just twisting the drill before pressing the button I love that about it
I was hoping to find a video on how to replace the bushings on a 340. Your videos are helpful but I guess I’ll have to figure it out myself. That’s usually the best way. By far not the easiest, fastest way, but maybe the best?
I have a 340 husky that is loose in the frame at the spring under the front of the saw. It belongs to my wife’s uncle. It’s like the bolt in the spring is broken or just not tightening up. Any clue what is causing this?TIA.
Hi. Quick question... I'm just cleaning up a 345 for a friend of mine and one of the problems it has is one of the 2 bolts (part number 503875401) that holds the bar in place has pushed in and in now loose inside the chainsaw somewhere. How hard is it to just get to those bolts to replace them? And how would I go about doing it?
The 340se was only made in 1977 the 340 from the series in the video is from the late 90's / early 2000's they are completely different the only parts that's interchangeable are the fuel filter and spark plug, maybe the bar
Hey just got a second hand 345 it runs great but now i wanted to put the blade and chain on it and one of the two studs that hold the blade fell inside of the housing, pretty sure its not how its supposed to be is it easy to get it out again and fix?
@@Coakleyfixedit207 thanks for the quick reply I actually just fixed it came back to remove my question! I think it also fixed why it was leaking oil bought it guy said it was leaking oil and had no time to fix it
I have a 2001 350 (#967 01 13-00, 01-5000643) that's been sitting for over a decade. It doesn't have the primer bulb, but everything else looks the same. Are there any other differences that you know about?
Not really they had 2 different style air filters that were interchangeable and the early ones the I'd tag was in a different spot, some had decompression buttons some didnt nothing major
It's really weird. Had a 350, 351 and 353 with the 'clip style' top cover.. My 346's are the same. My friend has a newer 353 with a purge bulb and a screw on style top cover. Not sure if this is a regional or time period thing.
I take something like a 1/2" socket and wedge it between the tank and body on the right side and it opens it enough to get needle nose to the vent. I assume your vent falls out that's a common issue on these you can seal it back in with nail polish
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Thanks. 👍 I'll give it a go and see if I can do it without snapping anything. Yes, it fell out. I only noticed as the vent insert was caught between the top and bottom casings. I'll try wrapping a piece of plumbers tape round the outside vent insert. Might help it stay in there.
@@Coakleyfixedit207 As far as I'm aware, PTFE tape is hydrocarbon resistant. Although, don't quote me on that. Worst case scenario, a small piece falls into the fuel tank and is stopped by the fuel filter. Worth a try I say.
@@Coakleyfixedit207 that would be excellent! So I have a question for ya? Have you ever ran klotz oil in your saws? I have had two saws now where the ring was Carboned up and stuck in the collapsed position on the piston. Holding the piston on my 350 as I'm writing this. Ran 40/1 on both saws. Lost compression on both saws and the ring is stuck shut again. 455 rancher and my 350. So my 540T lost compression too after 6 hours of use. I bet it's the same thing. I'm so done with klotz oil
@@wadelesinski53 455 and 460 are well known for that to happen it's very common, I don't run klutz oil I only run premixed can fuel in my 2 stroke stuff, most of the time I've seen that level of build up it was from old gas or gas that was starting to break down not the oil itself. Not saying it can't be the oil that's just what I've witnessed. When gas starts to break down the volatile parts will break down 1st and it won't burn as hot
Make sense however I cut so 25 cord of wood since may and I never have old gas. Cut all 4 season's here in Michigan. Frustrating to say the least. At any rate I'm done with klotz! Anyways I appreciate your input greatly!
Thanks a lot for taking the time to make the video! I've got 2 Husqvarna 353 chainsaws which I suspect sucks air from the base - would tightening the 4 screws holding the cylinder to the base solve that issue or would such a situation mean the chainsaw is shot?
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Alright, I've done some tinkering, here's where I'm at now: The 353G starts and idles, sprayed carb cleaner around the intake boot and it stalls immediately, will probably go for a new intake boot (I've cleaned the carb on this previously and it made 0 difference) The other 353 doesn't start. It does have spark and gas gets pumped into the cylinder. Did a compression test and it had roughly 5.5 bar (75 psi) which seems hella low. Doesn't feel all that bad when pulling the cord though which is kinda weird. Also noticed that the muffler misses 2 bolts (missing 1 bolt for the bracket and 1 bolt which screws into the cylinder) Should definately get new screws for the muffler although I guess that shouldn't be the direct cause of low compression since it's a 2-stroke unless I'm thinking totally wrong here? I checked the piston when I took off the muffler too and it looks pretty scored on the exhaust side so I'm not sure whether to give up on that saw or not. Both saws are my neighbours so we'll see what they say...the 353G seems more hopeful though!
@@jvlalallare I wouldn't say give up on the saw but you %100 need to determine why it blew up before rebuilding it or it will just blow up again, my best advice when replacing your boot on the other saw is when you go to put it back together put the boot onto the cylinder first by itself and make sure the little impulse nipple is fully in the hole or it will distort and leak. I've seen this hundreds of times people put the boot into the plastic before mounting on the cylinder and it mashes when reassembled. Those full crankcase saws from this series are very well made and desirable totally worth fixing
I was told to always check for the metal clip when buying this series saw. If a plastic clip is present the price goes down as it usually has an air leak. I also always pull the muffler to see if there is scoring. Once a seller sees the scoring it is easy to lower the price substantially.
