The instruction says that you should not mow 2 days before or 2 days after application. "For maximum results, apply Sedgehammer 2 days before mowing or 2 days after mowing. Apply this product when wind speeds are low and there is no rain in the forecast. Do not apply Sedgehammer more than 4 times a year. Sedgehammer is safe to use around children and pets when applied according to the product label."
Thank you for the information just what I needed. I got yellow nutsedge in our flower beds. I'm guessing the Sledgehammer will kill the flowers if covered sprayed?
I cringe when people say nutgrass. Nutsedge is definitely not a grass and calling it a grass is only going to confuse people. It’s a sedge and is physically different from a grass. We have herbicides for grassy weeds, broadleaf weeds and sedges. Sedgehammer is good but I prefer Dismiss. Dismiss has a quicker kill on yellow nutsedge in my experience with yellowing starting within 3 days rather than a week plus. It controls a longer list of weeds and it also translocates well to the underground tubers / nutlets. Not sure about the mowing tip but nutsedge is much easier to kill before it matures. If you apply Sedgehammer after the fifth leaf stage, it will not pass through the plant very well to the nutlets and regrowth will likely occur.
Wait until your seed is firmly rooted, growing and thriving. Don’t worry too much about the nutsedge, you’ll be able to get rid of it. It’s just unsightly until your seed is strong enough for the Sedgehammer herbicide. Thanks!!
Why cut it first? Aren't you reducing the amount of contact the sedgehammer will make with the nutsedge? Also I think its better to fill your tank half way first, then add the chemical and mix or shake, then the rest of the water.
Cutting the NUTGRASS first stresses it and allows the Sedgehammer(herbicide) to kill it easier. If you spray the NUTGRASS fully grown and try to kill it that way it’s much less effective. I understand you don’t see the NUTGRASS after you mow it but the herbicide will find it, so don’t worry that you can’t see the herbicide being sprayed on the NUTGRASS blades.
@@thegrassstore5307 I agree with you. The longer the stalks the more energy the plant can gather and outgrow the movement of the insecticide into the plant. I've read in a few different places that the herbicides used to kill nutgrass don't move very quickly and that you should spray plants when they're smaller. In my flowerbed, I burn them and then spray them.
Hi! We just laid brand new St. Aug sod in our home after they tilled and leveled- nut grass is coming through since we’ve been heavy daily watering. Been about 3.5 weeks now. Can we apply this to our sod? Or should we wait longer? We haven’t even had the first mow yet. Plz and thanks for advice!
I just resod my lawn with Zoysa and noticed Nutgrass already popping up in different areas. I live in Florida with extremely hot weather. Is it too late to apply this product? I don't want to kill my healthy lawn.
The nodules or tubers in the root system are the main problem. If you cant kill or sterilize them, youll be pulling your hair out trying to get rid of it.
It doesn’t go away until you treat it. It’s not like a warm season grassy weed that goes away after the first freeze of winter then comes back in the summer
Question: Why, of all the RU-vid videos, no one mentions Roundup. Every video taks about the beenfits of Sledgehammer, or some Ortho products to kill nutsedge. I was beginning to believe it, that Roundup was not effective, and when I used it strongly mixed had little to no success, I began to think Roundup was not the product of choice which I had a hard time believing, but seemed true since I could not get rid of it. I'll start by cutting it short to stress it out first,then tickle it with strong Roundup..."glyphosate".
In turfgrass specifically, roundup ”glyphosate” is gonna kill the NUTGRASS and the turf. The idea of Sedgehammer and other products is they kill the NUTGRASS without killing the turf.
@@thegrassstore5307 I found a 2 foot clump of heavy nutsedge in a landscape garden. I didn't have time to spray heavy Roundup, so I took a narrow hayfork and got down deep to put it out in one big clump, roots and all. I found that this nutsedge dd not have any nuts on the bottom of the roots, but it looks just like Nutsedge. So then what else could it be?
I tried spraying very strong glyphosate on the nutsedge in my flower bed and it would barely discolor it. I've been using Sedge Ender at 5.5 oz per gal and it works well but takes a while. SE alai seems to be more expensive per application so I'm going to try the Sedgehammer. SE is sulfentrazone. Premixed stuff at Home Depot and Lowes doesn't work well because they're too weak of a mix. At times i will also burn the nutsedge using a torch.
The + simply mean it has surfactant in it. So Sedgehammer does not have surfactant in it so we want to add it. Sedgehammer + has surfactant in it so you don’t need to add it. Ideally Sedgehammer + is a better product because it has the post-emergent to kill nutsedge plus the surfactant which helps it stick better to the plant. If you didn’t know to add surfactant Sedgehammer + is doing it for you so makes it more foolproof.
My nutgrass is coming around the plants in an area that is full of mulch. I can’t pass the mower in that area. Therefore, it is fully grown. What do I do then?
So if the NUTGRASS is growing in mulch just spray Roundup on it. Remember, Roundup is a non-selective herbicide so it will kill everything it touches, so just spray the NUTGRASS and not your plants/flowers. The reason we use Sedgehammer in grass is because it’s a selective herbicide, meaning it kills the NUTGRASS without damaging the turf. The active ingredient in Roundup is glyphosate.
@@thegrassstore5307 The reason I am still searching for a herbicide to kill Nutsedge is because Roundup does not kill nutsedge. Other videos confirm this. I have the professional Roundup (glysofate) that you mix with water and a surfactant. I've tried using Roundup every time I'm killing weeds in a mulch bed of perennials and flowers, and it (Roundup) doesn't affect the nutsedge at all. Secondly, I am not sold on the idea of cutting a lwan first because then there's less surface area for the Sledgehammer to cling to when you want as mush absorbancy as possible. Why cut it first. You're reducing more than 50% the ability to cling and bring the chemical to the root.
If the roundup is not killing the NUTGRASS your not applying it correctly. Try using “glyphosate” which is the active ingredient of roundup and get it in the concentrated version you can mix yourself. The pre-made stuff is always weak and the end-user doesn’t apply it strongly enough for it to work. As far as mowing the NUTGRASS first, this is the single most important step. Don’t worry about not having enough blade to spray the Sedgehammer with. Mowing it first allows the NUTGRASS to become stressed and let’s the Sedgehammer do it’s job better. If you have the NUTGRASS fully grown out you can spray and spray and it’s just gonna keep coming back. Mow it then spray where the NUTGRASS was and it’ll knock it down like magic. You may need to do a follow up spray the following week it any pops back.
@@thegrassstore5307 I have comercial grade Roundup concentrated. I mix 10 oz per 1 gallon water, and add 2 or 3 oz surfactant to get it to stick better. I have a hard time killing nutsedge, but I usually spray when the weed is fully grown in a mulch landscape bed. I will cut it short with hedgetrimmers, then respray. Maybe that's my problem...it's too tall. Thanks for your tips. THUMBS UP!!!
@@lostinmyspace4910 I have two. patios of bricks - in other words, a bazillion cracks that weeds of all sorts dearly love. Roundup is the only thing I have found that works. I hate using the stuff, but I hate the weeds more. (I use the concentrate and mix with water - the premixed in the battery sprayers is a waste of money.)
I spent 6 or so days on my hands and knees pulling out patches of this crap and the root system of this weed is unbelievable!!!!! Each one of these weeds have a baseball sized root ball attached to it, I COULDN'T BELIEVE IT😮
First, thanks for watching!! Dismiss will work fine for nutsedge and also kills more weeds than just nutsedge which is a plus. Downside is Dismiss requires more than one application depending on the type of nutsedge you have (yellow vs purple). I’m not saying there aren’t multiple products that kill nutsedge-there are. Our customers too often worry too much about what works better than the other. To keep it simple we always recommend sedgehammer when killing nutsedge to our customers because it works in the first application applied correctly. By all means use what you have it will work - just remember mow the nutsedge first then spray - that’s more important than what herbicide you choose to use. Thanks!!
Thank you for being so informative appreciate it. I have zoysia lawn in central Florida temps are 90 now can I still spray it I have so much of in one side. Thank you in advance for your advise. Have a blessed day
