My advice is apply a thin first coat and let it dry. Then gradually increase the thickness of subsequent coats, letting each dry completely. If you dont the nylon will drink the paint and itll us4 a ton.
I've never painted much UCP, but everything I've worked with that was painted under NVGs was no brighter then non painted versions of the same. I'm sure it technically is but I never noticed a difference. Rifles never "popped" out under them.
Great job, Brother !! Here are just some suggestions: - You can use torn cardboard to use the edges as a "stencil". You can use it to spray straight down for more bold lines....or at an angle to get more subdued lines with a slowly faded appearance. (From on the cardboard, towards the edge away from the cardboard "stencil") It works in areas with Maple, Oak, etc. "leafy" type of areas. (Not so much in "piney" areas, but will be better than some other camo patterns). -As far as the velcro, if you get them gobbed up with paint, get a stiff nylon bristled brush (or a metal bristled toothbrush-type) to brush off the paint AFTER it has dried. Try to do it gently, at first, until you get the gist of how to get rid of the paint, without messing up the velcro. Thanks for your videos !!! Keep up the great work !!!
Darker colors are harder to paint, for example black. You'll need lot of paint or heavy colors for it. Remember it's easier to paint lighter colors like coyote brown or ranger green. Single colors are easier to paint then camos.
@@marshallclowers1242 for black like I said lots of paint, or a darker color then the pounch so if it's like a black, then you want something like a darker green so it soaks up the black but still leaves some green. But if you want a black to tan, MIST it, let it dry, mist again, let dry and repeat or reapply as needed. Hope that helps man.
@@MrSwccguy Cool, I figured I'd have to go slow with it. I got a crap-ton of that ugly ACU stuff that I've dyed brown (looks much better in the trees and scrub). Miss the old woodland camo.
