0:36 Skip the Intro. 3:42 Skip the Print Settings. 6:57 Skip some more important info I talk about. 8:50 Skip right to the first injection. 10:10 Skip to de-molding the bait. 15:57 Skip to injecting the mini swimbait. 20:02 Skip the whole video.
I know its an older video but anyways, while PLA melts at +130C, it will soften at around 60C and might deform, another video definately had that happening where u could see the infill thru top layers. Surprised how well your molds hold up tho, pretty awesome!
I think it still works well because the plastisol cools relatively fast so it's not sitting at those high temps for a prolonged period of time. I also don't shoot the mold back to back like I would with aluminum so letting it cool a bit first helps I think.
Yeah that probably helps alot. I'm using PLA as mold supports with small silicone molds for casting lead weights and surprised how well those supports hav held up as pour hole/ top of the mold gets molten lead and it gets very close to PLA, no real deformation or melting has happened unless theres actual contact between lead and PLA and even then melting has been pretty minimal
Pretty cool for sure. If you apply a little cooking oil or spray some Pam in the mold cavities the baits will come out much easier. I already make my own baits using mass produced aluminum molds but I am interested in trying to print some of my own molds.
Great video 👌 When you use pressure to fill the molds, I assume the air in the mold is just pushed through the pla and smal gaps in the mold? What would be the pos/cons of making smal holes in the end of each chamber of the mold to make the pressure lower, and be able to see that each chamber is filed up 😊🤔
Thanks... What your referring to are commonly called vents and if you look hard enough (especially in the print settings part) you can see small vent channels at the tail of the bait. They are really tiny though.. maybe .03" wide and only only layer (or so deep). This lets the air out but they usually are not big enough to let plastisol out. I don't always vent my molds because yes with 3D printed molds there is always going to be a tiny air gap anyway but you will always find vents on aluminum molds. But over all it's better to have them.
Great one , look forward to the new molds. I want the swim bait stl lol . Im working on the frog lure just printed the small one to test . Thanks for the information
@@justintietz4477 Yes you can sell the baits you make form the molds... the copyright listed on Cults3d means you can't sell the purchased files or the printed parts (molds in this case) you make from those files but selling the baits you make should be fine.
Super impressed on how nice your baits came out. Just wondering how do you keep your tails from sticking? Mine are always destroyed by the time I get them out.
You can try a little worm oil in the mold before injecting... I give my baits at least 15 minutes to cure before trying to de-mold because a printed mold does not dissipate the heat like an aluminum mold would.
Have you ever thought of putting metal rods through the mold to help with preventing warping like you did with the middle of the tube mold? I wonder if it would give enough strength.
Honestly I haven't shot the tube mold enough yet to see if it actually helped with the warping so I haven't tried it on anything else yet and I didn't want to use up the rods I have left as I'm playing around with some other core shot stuff (future video). Overall the warping really hasn't been that big of an issue because the clamping flattens them enough. I should shoot some more tubes though because I am curious to see if the little 1/8" rod is enough to help.
Maybe make a hollow mold that can be filled with water. It might be able to keep the plastic mold cooler and avoid mold failure. No idea if it would work just an idea.
Maybe... the only probably even a 3d Printed mold printed at 100% infill isn't really waterproof. As long as the plastisol temps are kept under 300F I haven't had any further problems though.
Hi, thank you for your videos, they are usefull form me to better understanding. I'm trying to make my 3D molds but often during the injection I find parts of bait with cavities located in one point. Even adding vents, the bait never comes completely perfect and this is very frustrating for me. Do you have any advice?
A lot is going to depend on where the vents are in the design and it's hard to tell without seeing the actual design but I try to have them at the top of any areas where air can form pockets. If they are at the top of those pockets they should allow the air to escape during the inject and not cause an air bubble lock up (so to speak).
I tried it with a squid mold made with PETG and the mold was deformed when printing it at 100% fill, how do you do it? What temperature do you have on the vinyl?
I don't sell the gear the only thing I sell is the STL files so people can print their own molds and make their own gear. cults3d.com/en/users/sthone/creations
Hi. Very interesting. My brother (who want to have rubber lures) asked me if I could print a mould for him. What do you use as a release agent or lube? to get the lures out of the mould?
I was working on a stick bait (its shown on my website) but I wasn't happy with it (yet). Thingiverse went down the shitter so I gave up on it and only use Cults3d now. As for species... I fish mostly for bass (smallmouth being my favorite) but I'm just happy to catch anything.
I made a mold from petg, and the lure sticks on the mold very bad and break down if i try to take it off. I think somehow pla is better, maybe it is the material that pastisol wont stick on to it.
I wouldn't say it's "Better" but... PLA is easier to print with and I know the plastisol releases from the molds without any problems. While PETG will probably handle the heat better it does have a tendency to cause stringing during printing. I have not printed a PETG mold yet so I don't know if the plastisol sticks to it or not, it might require a mold release. You can print with any filament you want to use.... I just like PLA.
I got the same problem.. I found good settings for petg and printed a lot of mold without trying before.. Luremaking with pla molds worked for me so I thought petg is better cause of better heat resistence buuut no.. as you sad the plastisol stick so bad on the petg.. I can put all thr molds into the trash
@@shotgunscott055 You are correct... the handle and rear end cap are printed. They are never near the heat so it was just easier and faster to print them.
Ik this doesn’t have to do with this video, though I enjoyed it, but when I print your rattle trap lures the wire slots fill in. Is there a way to stop this so I don’t have to use a file or dremel on them. Keep up the great work.
It is a pretty thin slot so you have to make sure your first layer isn't squished so much. I have been planning to make a version with the figure 8 hook hangers I use but let me see if I can find the files and I'll try to make the slot a little deeper for you. edit - Was it this one -> www.theneverendingprojectslist.com/fishingprojects/rattletrap/
