Making 3D Printed Injection Molds for Soft Plastic Lures (Tube Baits + Machining a DIY Injector) 

Thanks but I did have the bits and pieces all worked out before making the video and of course a little editing always does wonders too. :)

Thanks...

Yeah I run Makergear M2 printers even after 4-5 years I'm still amazed at what these things can do.

Thanks for watching... I've only used Deadon Plastix plastisol so I can't compare it to anything else but the stuff is amazing. I am experimenting with making some frog type lures out of silicone but that video is still a ways off.

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList Wicked! I'll keep an eye out for it! I've just moved back out to the coast so I'm looking forward to getting back in to fishing. This is giving me good incentive to get back out once I won't get arrested for parking at the beach. :)

Thanks

Thanks you.

Thanks

LOL... Thanks Man :)

Thanks... Probably in a day or two I’m just finishing it up. It’s going to be another inject mold one.

I'm not sure you would be able to pump it fast enough to fill a mold before the plastic cooled.

Thanks... I wait about 10 minutes. Check out my other video (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_FeUszxAK8s.html) for more info/tips on shooting 3D printed molds.

Just black PLA but I do put a stainless steel rod in the center to try to keep the from warping.

Thanks for the advice much like making lures I'm kind of figuring out all this video stuff as I go. The sound is screwy from placing my mic of the left side of the frame and hopefully I fixed this issue half way through my next video but I'll definitely try the mono suggestion to see if that helps so thanks again for taking the time to comment.

I do just use PLA but I have the technique down now so I haven’t had any more issues and have made a ton of more molds since this. Thanks for the tips though.

I purchased the slicer software (simplfy3d) but there are free ones available that are just as good if not better (like Cura, Slic3r, or PrusaSlicer)

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList Thanks for the reply, I am a new sub, and been watching many of ur shows. We are getting ourselves a 3D printer, and I love how u explain every step that u take in ur episodes.

Yeah... pretty much.

СПАСИБО

Joakim Nylander it’s not warping during printing, its warping during the injection process. I did another one for mini tubes and I added a 1/8” steel rod in the middle of the mold on each side to try to eliminate the problem.

I would NOT recommend trying to print an actual injector. The plastic would not hold up to the kind of heat plastisol temps can get too and it would be way to dangerous. It's not worth the risks.... buy (or make) an aluminum injector.

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList I used a 60ml enteral syringe and it resists heat quite well.

I used Fusion 360 on this one... sometime I use Solidworks or Onshape too. They all are similar.

I use PLA+. ABS (or PETG) would probably be better but PLA has been working well enough for me. I just have to keep my plastisol temps around 300° while injecting. If it's too hot it can/will melt the mold.

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList thanks for the quick response! Gonna try it myself :)

Nope I use PLA+ for most of my stuff. I haven't actually tried ABS yet for a mold.. I did try ePC but plastisol bonds to it like glue.

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList interesting. Tried Pla in the beginning. Melted Like Butter. Switched to Abs since. Works great. Abs plus Sticks to the plastisol. May give Pla+ a Shot as well

www.deadonplastixllc.com/ Best stuff there is...

I've been told the ones from www.basstackle.com are some of the best but stores.jacobsbaits.com/ and www.basstackle.com/ are another few places that I know about that also sell them. I have not used any of them though.

They will be on Cults3d soon...

@Henco steenberg Sorry they have not been uploaded yet I've been busy but I'll try to get them up soon.

It's on Cluts3d now, 86 cents purchase, what a bargain, it is a meshed stl file so it's not changeable, my suggestion would be to also provide a 4" tube to go with the 3.5". Great job on the production, I used ABS and am going to try the acetone smoothing tech.

Are you going to put your 6 tube mold on Cluts3d?

I use PLA+ for all of my molds.

From what I heard the high temp resin they use in those printers is actually better so I'd say yes but I have no actual experience with them myself.

I have not heard of anyone else having this problem. You sure it's placed on the surface correctly?

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList hey so I'm a newbie at 3d printing sorry for bothering you I actully had it angled slightly in my slicer 🤣 complete newbie error 🤣

@@nightdrivers9138 Happens to the best of us... just glad to help.

Most of what I make can be found here cults3d.com/en/users/sthone/creations a lot of the files are free, some are a few $.

Sorry unfortunately I just don't have the time to take on any other projects right now.

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList well if you need some extra money and change your mind please let me know and thank you so much for responding once again your work is awesome

I do not... I only sell the files so people can print their own.

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList oh okay, hey so I was thinking about getting a 3d printer, I was thinking about going with the ender 3 pro, do you know how well that printer would work with injection molds ? I want as smooth of a finish as possible, I'm not sure if your supposed to use a smaller mm PLA if you want your end result to be smooth or if your supposed to do something afterwards.

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList also would you be willing to design a custom file for me?

@@musicislife6802 I hear a resin printer is the way to go if your looking for higher detail but I have heard good things about the Ender line of printers. They should be able to print the same as what I do anyway.

@@musicislife6802 Sorry custom work is not something I do as I just don't have the spare time.

I've been just using eSun PLA+

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList I dont understand how pla holds plastisol temperature (170~180°C) . When pla is affected by heat inside a car in summer… maybe 60~65ºC 🤔

@@josedavid6400 You have to remember the Plastisol starts cooling really fast once it's injected so it's not at a sustained temperature where as something in your car is at that temperature all day long.

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList ok, i'll try it

@@josedavid6400 You can always try printing with a higher temp material. Be sure to watch my other video on how I inject the molds too.

I use Makergear M2's (FDM printers)

Have you ever don’t Mini tubes for trout? Like a 1.5” tube?

@@cali_misfit1387 I have not... I didn't even know that was a thing. I'm not a very good trout fisherman I mostly just use spinner.

I honestly do not know the longevity of the molds yet. I just make enough baits for myself (which is usually not a lot) before moving on to the next bait design. I don't think I'd be using 3D printed molds to do any mass production of baits though... aluminum would be they only way to go for that. As for the temps I probably wasn't clear but the printed plastic temps are in Celsius and the plastisol plastic temps are in Fahrenheit so that 300° in F is actually only around 148° C so it is below the printing temp of the 3D filament. The plastisol can still melt the molds if you are not careful but it does cool down fast enough to work overall.

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList i do 3d printing to aid me in maiking my aluminum moulds but they are sand cast but i will give it a go cheers

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList You could try to print the molds in PETG, ABS or ASA. PLA withstands 60C, PETG 80C, ABS 100C+. They would probably last longer... You can also try to anneal the PLA, as it would gain a higher temperature resistance.

@@Hallslys PLA has been working for the most part... I did try ePC which is really high temp stuff but the plastisol stuck to it like superglue.

As far as "type" I only know FDM printing but Resin type printers would give you more detailed prints but can be trickier and messy to work with (from what I hear). I honestly don't know a ton about the various printers, I bought high end printers from the start (Makergear M2's) so I didn't have to spend a lot of time messing with them. I hear a lot of good things these days about the Creality brand of FDM printers though. (The Ender 3 and Cr-10 Models) The are relativity cheap starter printers but are really good from what I hear. Being popular there is a lot of support out there for them too. Overall though it's going to depend how what you want to make, what your budget is, and how serious you are about making lures.

I have an ender 3 pro. I've done some upgrades and make a ton of different things with them. From toys for the kids, Hooks and brackets for around the house, printer upgrades, and gifts for family members (lithophanes). Cartesian style fdm printers are awesome for hobby work. I'm looking into getting a delta style printer so prints take less time and still have good quality.

I'm sure it would be as it has a higher melting point. I just hate the smell of printing abs and I hear nylon is a pain to print with.

I use PLA see my other video for more info. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_FeUszxAK8s.html

I don't sell them I just made it for myself but they can be found online for around $50-$70 depending on the size.

The 6 Cavity tube mold is 7.25" x 5"

I think what you meant to say was ... "Hey I'm just a kid so I don't have a lot of money to spend on all of your reasonably priced files and I don't want to sound like every other entitled kid out there these days so I'm going to go download Fusion 360 for free and design one of these for myself. Thanks again for putting all of your time and effort into showing us exactly how you designed these molds it should be really helpful in me making my own lures and not having to have to buy them."

Sorry I do not sell the actual molds, I only sell the files so people can print their own.

I don't sell the printed molds but might sell the files once I get them to where I'm happy with them so people can print their own if they want. If you're looking for a mold and don't have a printer you'd probably be better off buying an aluminum one.

Sorry I don't sell molds. The files are available for sale though if you can find someone to print one for you.

@@TheNeverendingProjectsList where do I find the files?

@@tonyduran4764 cults3d.com/en/users/sthone/creations