As someone who is coming back into the VW Fold, I appreciate all these videos. Now that I am retired, I can get to that 64 Metal Roof bug with the stiff front end.....and inspect those cases I have stacked in the corner of the garage.
Thank you so very much for this!!! I am currently replacing the engine in my "82 vanagon" and your videoconvinced me to buy a whole new engine and not to re-use the case...for an extra $2000 it's worth it for the peace if mind.
Huge thank you for showing the bad blocks. I just with there was one with a crack to see. I’ve heard of torch testing and cracks will highlight themselves when warmed.
Eight lifter bores each with .005 slop will give you .040 total. This is the main reason for low oil pressure, overheating and eventually, sooner rather than later self destruction. The best bet is to have a competent VW machine shop instal bronze lifter bore guides. Sometimes even on brand new cases.
I used to rebuild a lot of VW engines in the late 70's and early 80's. Recently i bought a 68 bug and am building a Baja. I bought a 1970 57 HP 1600 single port bus motor. This thing sat for over 40 years. I found a steel plate with 4 VW Flat head Screws holding it just over the # 3 rod. There was also a Silicone spot over the #1 rod. Turns out VW dealers had a trick they used to do if they had a motor which spected out but had broken rod cracks. They would rebuild the motor and bolted a 10 gauge plate with gasket sealer and 4 screws over the punched out area in the case. VW Dealers had their share of tricks just like American Dealers did.
Hello. I have a case which may need a line bore, as I can see a vw emblem in the middle saddle like you mentioned. Also, I have a slightly loose pin in the thrust bearing saddle. Can that be fixed somehow? All the best.👍🏾🇬🇧🛠
If you can feel the emblem with your fingernail it probably needs align bored. Usually a slightly loose pin is corrected with an align bore, new bearings, and new dowel pins. Oversized pins are available but are rarely needed.
@@soggz4246 Depends on how far out the bore is. If you can feel it with your fingernail, it's likely worn well beyond spec. Bearings would not seat properly in the bore, resulting in very low oil pressure and a rebuild that does not last very long.
I am working with a type 4 case. I see the middle bearing part # on my middle saddle, as you did. You mention the center galley and feeling that ridge, then you measure it too. But I only see the words stamped in my saddle, no galley ridge. Am I dealing with the same issue just cause the numbers are there?
Type 4 cases are aluminum and typically don't have this same issue. If you don't feel a raised galley ridge from the bearing, the text stamping may just be some grime or oil that was worn onto the surface of the saddle in that one. Clean the saddle with some light scotch brite then measure that bore & test fit the crank with set of new bearings. Plastigauge would be a cheap & reliable alternative to a bore gauge.
Great Info! Thanks! I have a case that has quite a bit of white corrosive deposits I’m trying to figure out the most effective and safest way to get this case cleaned up. Would Soda blasting be a good idea?
If the studs are structurally sound and there is plenty of surface for the gasket to seal, then a small amount of corrosion is okay. If one of the studs won't hold or the gasket surface won't seal, it will save headaches to find a better case.
Hello friend of Dune Buggy Warehouse, I want to know if I have to perform dynamic balancing to the following products that you buy new in your amazon online store are the following: AA Performance Products 4340 Forged Counterweighted Crankshaft Chevy Journal (Size 76mm) Brand: AA Performance , Manufacturer Part Number: 003 4376C, and: FLYWHEEL LIGHTENED 8 DOWEL, dune buggy vw bug, OEM Part Number 311105273HP, can you help me? to know if they are already balanced or do I have to balance them together?
Cranks and flywheels should already be balanced from the factory, but it's always a good idea to have the entire rotating assembly dynamically balanced (crank, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, crank pulley) and to match weight on rods & pistons.
Forged Crank , Rods = great Case no good the case is the weak spot . as the #3 comes up to compression stroke it pushes back on the #1 and #2 main saddles while at the same time it pushes the #3 area forward by the head studs . It tries to push each side of the case the opposite direction causing case clap. NO - GO - OD !!!! and the bracing is the spigots around the cyl. hole and when you cut to make oversize your weakening it farther and the more you stroke it the worse it is . answer if you go to hop it up start with at least a bubble top . No one I know can afford a Scat 3 piece case . those if used stock would be like using a type 4 case , no line bore issues . Just saying ? VW driver since 73
With proper machining and assembly there is no reason you can't build a reliable 100hp+ street engine. There are plenty of little tricks to maintain the block integrity during an engine and even stroker build, including machining the piston skirts and only machining a small bit of the block itself for the skirts to fit. Bubble top cases are definitely a good place to start, but plenty of drag racers have AH/AE dual relief cases making well over 200 horsepower. Usually the biggest issue with stock cases are the lifter bores.
