im a plumber myself and ive done underground rough ins, I have to say that this video is very explainable for anyone who is not a plumber and wanted to do their own plumbing. good enough video
Question - how does the drain for the lavatory act as the vent (wet vent for all other fixtures)? Around 6:40 he says it. So there's not actual vent that goes to the outside?
@@nofurtherwest3474 oversized drain line. The air is able to get between the water and the top side of the pipe. If it were a smaller pipe there would be no room for the air and water.
I was frying my head trying to understand what the heck was that pipe going absolutely nowhere in my basement. Thanks to you guys, now I fully understand the reason. You guys are awesome!
Back in the day guys used to mix 3/4 glue and 1/4 primer and you still got that purple color around each joint!!! It would water down your glue a bit but would actually go on better it's frowned upon these days though!!!
you never want to use flexible couplings under the concrete but rather a solid metal banded coupling with a rubber behind it, its called a mission band, over time flexible rubber couplings can flex to much, if shifting occurs in the ground that could potentially obstruct the flexible coupling they used in this video, what they used is a fernco, I suggest a mission band.
I agree buried under concrete is not the place for a fernco. Hopefully by the time it's a problem this couple's transgender kids will have to deal with it .
Great video and thanks for explaining the wet venting and local codes. I've had a basement rough in video on my channel for a while now and people are always questioning the venting and what is right and wrong. Different codes depending on where you are.
I am so glad they did not installed water supplies in the concrete floor. It would have been easier this way, but running water supply trough Sheetrock wall cavity is the best way to do it. Props to Rich!
Boy if Osha saw you cutting out that closet bend with that grinder safety cover off!!! 😂 Greetings from Miami, Florida. I'm also a licensed Plumber, the things we have to do to get the job done! 🙃👍
Been in the trades 16 years. Have had a master plumber, master electrical, and master hvac license for 11 of those years. I am now a building inspector. First thing I see is working clearances to the breaker box when walls are built, you are not going to have three foot in front of it. Looks like about 32 inches if you go by seems in the blocks, and that's not counting that the front of the breaker box is four inches from the wall surface to start with. Second thing, depending on code they are on, they may or may not have done the venting correctly. As a plumber I would have vented the toilet separately, however depending on the code for that jurisdiction they may be within code, however codes are minimum standards, nothing saying you can't do more, and all we are really talking about is a few more dollars in fittings, not much in the overall cost of adding a bathroom. Third that is going to be a finished area, I would have depending on circumstances outside, dug down outside and made it to where I had PVC to outside of the home, as well as installed cleanouts on the outside of the home, again not required to do that per code, however why mess up a perfect finished area when cast iron fails, and it will fail. I might also would consider a check valve in the event of a sewer backup you don't flood the area, however check valves do fail, and that can be a problem too.
This is the easiest install of all time being that there was already a bathroom there. Where I live, no one cares if you move your toilet from one side to another, but in states like NJ and NY it's endless bureaucratic red tape and paying for inspections.
No. That was a garbage job. I've been in the plumbing business before you were dropping deuces in diapers and I tell you that was a garbage plumbing job.
@@johnsmith-wc8gs I kind of have to agree with T Durden. I'm a Licensed Master Plumber in Michigan. In no particular order...there are a few things that I would not let fly if it were my job. Not necessarily code violations but just a few sloppy things. First, this is an underground. Not a "Rough". They should of built boxes to go around the trap for the shower, to help protect when concrete is poured. Risers should of been used and came high enough to cap. Not use plastic or cellophane. I would of used a sawzall with a diamond blade, instead of the grinder. Also would of been bedding the pipe with fresh fill as we went, which brings me to the next thing---If you are good at running DWV you should not have to "dry fit". You should measure, cut, prime and glue. Done! I also did not see an air test. Either way, neither of these two would ever cut it working for me.
consumer tip, if it's only a few more feet to get outside of the house, then have your plumber go ahead and replace it. If that "80 yr old cast" fails 6 months later, then your tearing out brand new floor, tile.
They are also installing a toilet so they will come at a point it all gets to rusty and toilet paper gets stuck there. You don't want to save on something like this when you can easily go outside you will regret it if you don't. When you spend so much money on renovation do it good or buy a new house.
How do I see the rest of the episode? This is super helpful and exactly what I need to do but the link to the rest of the episode doesn't work anymore.
such a great video! Thank you. What would you recommend if we want to add a bathroom with toilets in the basement of a house that is not connected to the plumbing. The plumbing is located at the level above the location in which the bathroom would be added. Thank you
1#...Use a soil pipe cutter. 2#...use some kind of 1/2" minus or screenings to support piping from underneath, before concrete comes. 3#... Box off shower for drain install..not wadded up plastic.
Hmmm. Looking at this. I see the elec circuit breaker box. Suppose to have a 3 ft clearance in front of that panel. Code. Can,t tell if this is far enough away from where the lubber is laid down in front?
I see alot of comments about the wet vent smelling bad, it's not to open air. It either ties into the buildings existing vent or if code permits you can get a $20 one way vent that only allows air in. Wet vents work well. I may have added an additional vent for the shower at least but just my opinion .
You should have installed a backwater valve to protect the bathroom since this is the basement . Also our plumbing code mentions that you need 1/4 per feet pitch for a pipe that is 3"or less. 1/8 per feet is for pipes 4" to 6".
@@KPAU07 \ Building codes. The never ending gov foot in the door. The amount of changes to simple crap over 20 years is insane. So many codes are added just to find something to charge you for.
@@BobBob-we3wr Maybe it's for a rental. If your basement is tall enough, and have the correct sized windows and the correct amount, you can legally build a bedroom.
lol I am glad im not the only one that noticed that. Totally inappropriate way to install that clamp. With the uneven clamping pressure on that coupler that's bound to leak down the road now.
Just for clarification no obstructions 15" either side of toilet measured from centre of drain. Also the lav can serve as the vent for both toilet and shower so long as it's within 6' of each fixture being served. When thats not obtainable you must increase pipe size by one size
Who all remembers watching This Old House back in the 1970s and 80s when they offered absolutely no information of any value? Thank gawd for the new This Old House. Reputation REDEEMED!
12.5" is all you need.... Thanks for deciding the wall covering for me by refusing to add enough room to possibly tile my walls... Did a bathroom reno and thankfully had the forethought to measure the closet flange placement, 12.5 wouldn't even fit cheap white builders tiles with adhesive let alone the 5/8" honed 18" square travertine I used. I moved mine to 13.25 and after the substrate, large format grout and tile there was less than 1/8" to spare after the 12" offset toilet was installed. Especially in the case of a basement install under concrete, give yourself an extra .25 to .5" clearance, you can tile in the future if desired and if your toilet tank needs to rest on the wall a small shim or spacer will never be noticed if installed properly.
I didn't know anyone is even pouring molten lead anymore. That process drove me OUT of plumbing as a young apprentice. The weight and excessive labor of working with cast iron. Then, some brilliant inventor came up with the rubber "donuts" as you mentioned. It turned everything 180 as far as labor and ease goes.
That rubber reducer with the clamps remind me of the old black water pipe that used a fitting and clamps years ago. Someone will suffer lots of grief someday because of those clamps stainless or not.
TIP : When doing a lot of PVC cutting , a miter saw will make perfect cuts every time very quickly, and no burring , you can cut up to a 4 inch pipe with a standard saw .
I am looking at buying a house where the laundry is in a closet in the house and I want to move to the garage and add a utility sink. Water supply lines are easy as the water heater is right there in the garage. House is all on concrete slab. The other side of the garage interior wall is the master bathroom. On that wall is garden tub, tiled shower and toilet. I was thinking of tying into the drain under the garden tub. Is this something that can easily be done considering I would have to pull the tub and chip out some concrete?
I like it,I'm technicians plumber from Tanzania, I agreed this cast pipe to change comes to PVC that nice,pls bring us that material in African there so many problems over hire.
In New Orleans you can't use any metal fittings underground because of the soggy soil. So it's fernco or mission fittings with the bands removed, then cast in concrete, or donuts into a hub.
I agree, it shouldn't be allowed. At least a reducing fernco shouldn't be as there is no way to prevent sheering or swelling. I've put in ferncos below the slab years ago that are still intact today, but only the ones that are the same size for both connections. I just put a sheer band around them to prevent them from flexing in the ground too much
It's just the wrong type of coupling, it has to be a proper cast iron to plastic coupling. Still made of rubber, but its shorter, and has a stainless steel shield wrapped around it. When tighten it up the new plastic pipe is solid to the cast iron, no flex. What they used would never pass a groundwork inspection in seattle. Plus they should have set it up for test, and explained horizontal wet venting better
these comments are simply classic. as soon as he measured the offset at 12.5" and not 13", i knew this was gonna be loaded with goodies. nobody here let me down either. hahahaha.
You're the pro & I really don't know as I am just a handyman' But having done some jobs plumbing the inspectors alway's told me that any buried pipe connections such as your showing could not be hooked up w/a regular rubber boot as it had to be an emissions coupling. The truth be known, inspectors lie when they inspect a handyman's work & they resent a man making an honest living giving the home owners a fair price w/out taking him to the cleaners. It cut's in on the licensed plumbers license to steal. I know from experience plumbing is a dirty job, But I do believe it's just as dirty to rip people off!. I was installing schedule 40 in a basement that had 3" stacks to it & I installed 3" schedule 40. The inspector told me it had to be 4" pipe & I had to tear it out & waste it as it been already glued. I complied W/ 4" pipe when he came back & then said it had to be 3". I argued & told him he's already cost me hundreds of dollars of work & material when I had it already correct the first time. He just said well today it's back to 3" He did not like it that I was non-union & that I was a good man to have on hand, Dave the handyman. I don't rip people off & I believe what goes around comes around. His stupidity is in judgment day coming! May God bless his people.
First off, Plumbers are a licensed trade - not handymen. In Mass it takes 5 years of school before you can even sit for the Journeyman's test. You could not pull a plumbing permit in my state let alone perform work and stand for an inspection without being a licensed plumber. Plumbing work should always be left to the professionals since they are responsible for protecting the water supply in homes/neighborhoods/communities as well as Waste and Gas (propane and NG). We have codes that we must follow, we have continuing education (6 hours a year) to stay current with our craft. What does a handyman have to do, read another Plumbing for Idiots Book? Union or non Union does not matter, being a licensed tradesman is what really matters in the end. So stick with squeaky doors and stuck window panes. Leave the skilled trade work to the licensed guy. If you like Plumbing so much - go be an apprentice and work your way up like everyone else has in the trade! -GtheP.
There is a reason handyman shouldn't do plumbing for the public. If you mess up you might not only hurt your customer but the public as well. There's a reason that a plumber needs a license....they have to know what they are doing.
You need to use a stainless steel banded mission coupling for any connection between two different materials. Above or below ground anything else will shear or degrade over time and cause problems
So im doing my basement bathroom over. Its currently ABOVE concrete plumbing. Its almost 18in off the floor. Smh. So im trying to rough in plumbing. So I bought a 4in pvc to come from the upstairs toilet(i have a toilet stack down here) going vertically to a sanitary tee. To the left I have another 4 in pvc to a 90° ANGLE and attached a 4 in spigot flange with a cap and ring. On the right side i have another 4 in pvc (going in a straight line) transition to a 3 in pvc. A 3 inch to 2 inch elbow that then transitions to a small 2in. Pvc and shower drain and a for my shower. Am i doing this wrong
They will probably silicone the joint then leave it exposed and fill all around it with concrete when they pour floor. They are hacks and I would not copy anything I saw in this video or take any of his advice.
Yeah some guy pointed that out and they deleted his comment and it looks like they put a suggestion box for another video over the pipe so nobody could see their fuck up
Yes, theoretically however the odds of that happening often are not likely. How often do you take a poo while your significant other brushes their teeth?
Eh... I'm a plumber of 10 years in Canada. This install is alright. My only grievance is the fact the shower is dumping over the lav, and I think they used too many fittings. The lav should be upstream of the shower so the shower can vent when it turns through the 45. I'd prob have put a 6*3 fernco on the hub of the CI. The hub will last way longer than the leaded joint. From there I would of put a 3" Y, the branch picks up the toilet. Bush down to 2", then a 2" Y, the branch picks up the shower, then two 45's to pick up the lav. I think this orientation saves a couple fittings. If the inspector demands a 3" cleanout I would probably put a 3" Y upstream of the toilet Y and have it 45 up into whatever wall near the toilet with an access panel in the drywall.
But how can add a new shower drain to existing toilet drain on concrete slab ?? The cast iron pipe for the toilet come up from below so I need to cut before toilet flange but do I need to make a large hole / diameter??Thank you!
when using the fernco coupling you should use a 4" fernco coupling with a metal brace and then reduced to 3" using a 4x3 pvc reducer, you cannot use a fernco with out a big metal brace
+Jason Hilton for TV, they usually remove safety guards (and put a disclaimer in the end credits) so the work being done is more easily visible to the viewer.
ike fun, don't go calling people f***** retards when you yourself are one. they arent foot blocks. standard concrete blocks are 16", occasionally they are 14"
ike fun ike fun you're insane! So what you're saying is at 5:15 when his foot is against the masonry wall and his KNEE is on the new wooden wall, that from his foot to knee is 3'???? So that means the next thing is from his knee to hip is again 3 more feet and so on!? So he must be 9-10 feet tall you moron. That wall is roughly 18" away from the face of the panel. It's completely wrong
@@timothybarney7257 It's actually 150V to ground and less, that is the cutoff for working space to always be 3 feet in depth, regardless of surface condition behind the worker. So this would apply for a residential 120/240V system, a 120/208V three-phase wye system, and a 120/208V single phase partial wye system for an apartment dwelling uint. Over 150V to ground, requires greater working space, depending on the surface condition behind you. So this would apply to high leg delta systems that have a B-phase that is 208V to ground on 120/240V three phase, commercial 277/480V applications, and 347/600V industrial applications. An insulated condition behind you, like a plastic fence, wood, drywall, or vegetation, would still require 3 feet. A conductive or conditionally conductive condition, would require 3'-6", such as concrete block walls, chain link fences, or the backs/sides of other equipment. A common aisle situation between to pieces of equipment would require 4 feet.
You might like the sound, but no one will like the smell of the sewer gasses. Even if you have no sense of smell, it is a fire hazard and a health hazard to let these gases in the house.
@@LumenChaser Short answer They may have noticed the seal was broken and just didn't include any info on it in the video to keep the complexity down. Long answer If they didn't notice it, that will definitely leak. It's not a pressurized line so it'll be a slow leak. What happens will depend on the ground. If it's dry ground it may leach away for many years or maybe it'll never be an issue, but that's a slim chance at best. If the ground is saturated with moisture any sewerage will seep under the slab and accumulate, anaerobic bacteria will build up and create a biomat, which will further trap moisture. That slab floor will always seem damp, but more importantly it will always smell dank because of the trace amounts of gas seeping through the slab. The trace gas probably won't be enough to hurt anyone but the smell will be noticeable. The first thing the homeowner will do is use sprays to kill the smells, then use cleaner/bleach on the floors, but the smell will persist. A moderately skilled plumber will most likely recognize the smell and be able to diagnose the issue. But if the homeowner brings in a general repair the first thing they'll likely suggest is to seal the slab, which won't work. A waste of money. If they get very unlucky a foundation repair will suggest a new foundation drainage system. Which is expensive and has a possibility of working because that will take away a lot of the moisture. Anaerobic bacteria flourish in wet conditions, less moisture the less bacteria. But the smell will likely persist. If they didn't fix that seal before they finished the remodel, they'll have to remove all the fixtures, take up the flooring, dig up the slab in that area, fix the seal and then put it all back. If they did replace the seal at that stage in the video, since the slab is already gone, a plumber would chisel carefully around the pipe for an hour or so to reveal it. Put on a new coupler and seal. Maybe $70-100 extra cost on the remodel price. Which is worth it. They never should have shown people that you can guess whether the seal is intact or not. Just replace it, the added cost is insignificant compared to the total cost of the remodel and a new seal will last for decades.
I don't know the codes where they live but here you need at least a meter in front of the electric panel for blow back, but then again maybe they are moving the panel as well?
