I found myself actually talking to the screen, trying to tell you to assemble all 3 pieces then fix the bracket to the floor, LOL. But that's the great thing about this channel - you show all the real details, the successes and the frustrations and everything between. Another great install, thanks Jeff.
Same here, but just like Jeff I have overlooked simple fixes until I rest and thought about it. I'm just happy he figured it out before he crawled in that mess lol
Yeah I saying you’ve got a head on your shoulders use it for something other than a hat rack 😅 but I’ve installed maybe ten or so I think that the delta with the big brass floor mount rough in valve is the easiest but also very expensive, so my customers don’t always want to spend that much money. Live and learn my friend
I just got done drilling 72 holes in a porcelain backsplash for open shelving using one of those bits only to start the hole, break through the glaze, then I switched to a masonry bit of the same size to push the rest of the way through, which was much faster than using the diamond bit on its own. I had a cup of water nearby to cool the bits.
Your best bet when drilling into tile with the Milwaukee bits is to use the spear point that you’re using in the video as a starter bit (to make a dimple in the tile) then finish off with the Milwaukee diamond hole saw to drill all the way through the tile. Both bits will last about 5 times longer and works great!!
Jeff - Unscrew the triple brass fitting from the floor - tighten everything else then re-secure the brass anchor to the floor. I've had that same "OMG - how does this go on properly?" moment. Get a snack, clear your head - everything will be OK...
Yeah, don't see any other way besides that. Basically fully assembled, making the water connections while holding it up (2 person at this point I guess), THEN screw it down to the floor while holding up the escutcheon plate. Edit: Ah, resumed the video after replying, that's what Jeff basically did at the end.
Great video, nice to see I am not the only person in the world that runs into problems and is ready to call something every name in the book... Thank you for such honest informative videos.
Love your work. Thank you. Now you asked for some thoughts... Water inlet controls should be as you decided since the user is meant to fill the tub first - the controls for this should be easiest to access from outside the tub. As an overcautious soul I would like to have some pieces of butyl rubber sheet under those feet pushing against the tile - something to spread the force and prevent point loading. Drilling the tiles next to the open water line made me cringe - any grit going into the hole will get pushed up into the water contol parts once connected
Hey Jeff, I’m in the process of remodeling my bathroom. Have been for a few years on and off now. I have that exact same bathtub. I got it at a resale shop for damaged items. It has a small scratch on it so that turned it from an $800 tub into a $100 for me! I LOVE it. I’ve had it for a few years now and the seal on the push button setup on the drain would get stuck. It ended up stretching out and we would have to use a plunger to pull the drain plug back up. I will be switching to that in floor system as soon as I can but I need another tub drain. It’s hard to find specific tub parts. Our house was built in 1941 just about an hour north of Chicago. The bathroom was so small you could wash your kids in the tub while sitting on the toilet. The door almost hit the sink when you opened it. Just enough room for the tub, toilet and sink. It’s now an 8x10 room and I’m putting in the shower finally. Finding your channel very helpful. Keep em coming. 😂
The drill bits you used in the video are great to get the holes started because of the point, then to finish the hole you should switch to a diamond hole saw bit to finish the job much easier and faster. Looks like the tap you used would definately not be usable if you have a house that is built slab on grade since you have no access to the plumbing below.
Makita (and probably some other makers) make bits with a water reservoir for tile drilling. You can also use a 2 liter PET bottle with a pinhole that will gravity feed water onto your target whole drilling. This is great, as continuous water supply is what you need to keep it cool. The friction will otherwise evaporate a small bit of water in a hole. Scott from Japan
31:00 Hey Jeff. One way you could do it is unscrew the floor bracket, screw in all the connections and then once its all together, orient the foot and screw it back into place Edit: nvm, you figured that part out later haha, should have watched the whole thing first
Thanks for this video Jeff. I’m doing the same project today and realized my kit didn’t come with a hat seal for the drain. Quick trip to the plumbing supply store!
I love how even the experts get defeated sometimes. The look of defeat there leaning over the tub, I think we've all been there lol. It's just funny when it's someone else. 😅 The piano music had me howling with laughter.
Think about your head is at the other end of the tub and your feet are right close to those valves....... Does that give you any ideas ? It gives me an idea...... Say you want to add some hot water you just use your feet to actuate the valves on off and so on... So face the valves twords you for easyness for your feet to actuate No extra charge for this information have a nice day... you're very thorough. Keep making videos like this sir I've never seen anybody so dedicated.
5:45 Don't exclude the possibility that the tub itself isn't flat. A straight edge would put this question to rest. I bought two Kohler sinks and they both had an oval hole! So I went with a slight ly more expensive Toto. These days you can never know.
1st Jeff 33:06. Why not unscrew floor piece unscrew pipes. The assemble it all attach pipe. And screw to floor last 2nd. Why not orient faucet with temp face tub…
Great video. Thanks for sharing your "dilemma". as it is something I would surely do. I was thinking, as you said you had to crawl under the floor, take the screws out, tighten everything then attach it again. Looks pretty good
I was saying you forgot to put the cap on before attaching the plumbing. I did the same thing multiple times installing light fixtures the other day. 🤦♂
I think if you unscrew from floor make your connection then put line down in the hole. That should keep you from going under the house. Ok never mind, I should have just kept watching, I knew u would figure it out! 👍
Good one, Jeff. I figured it out while watching your frustration. Spot on about end of the day tired. I get like that too. Thanks for the video. Now I have the confidence to try a free standing tub installation if asked to do one. Also, wondering if crushed ice would help keep porcelain drill bits cool while drilling tile ?
Maybe you could use a ring of plumber's putty to make a little moat around the drill marks on the tile. It wouldn't hold a LOT of water, but perhaps enough to keep the bit from overheating.
I think if you unscrew the brass bass support, you then can screw the faucet together then screw it to the floor for support and stability after you make the plumbing connection and screw the fixture together. I think that would do the trick.
No tape on the threads? The gasket seal is enough? I am planning on installing a soaking tub. The one I have now is so shallow it barely covers my knees. The tub is 40 years old and I had to plug the overflow to get a decent bath. So happy it will be leaving and this video will allow me to get it done. :) Thank You Jeff.
I would have assembled the entire top, middle and bottom hose and tube sections, then screw the brass three legged piece onto the bottom of the chrome pipe, connect both water lines and then push the water lines back down into the hole and screw in your three mounting screws. Looks like you have plenty of water line out the bottom of the fixture to do that. OR, simply unscrew the 3 screws on the base from the floor, screw all of the tubular parts together with water lines inside like you have it, and before pushing water lines down through floor, screw on the brass part to the chrome part if they are separate or just position it properly and screw it back down to the floor. It looks like you have plenty of hose out the bottom of the fixture to fully assemble it and lay it on the floor while you are connecting water lines. Once connected, just push them back down through the floor and put the 3 screws back into the floor to hold the brass base in place. Drop the chrome cover down over it and your all set. I know sometimes its easier to see the solution when you are not under pressure of a camera shoot. Great job by the way. Thanks for sharing the video.
i would have added a stainless steel or brass washer under the floor attachment to spread out the pressure of that standing faucet over the ceramic tile because if its every leaned against it has a lot of leverage
Freestanding tubs being able to tip over is yet another reason why I never want to have one. I like alcove tubs. Much easier to clean around and easier to sit on the edge without hurting yourself. If you have a foot slip and land on the edge of the tub while getting out, it's not as bad if its a wider section of tub (still sucks). That narrow piece hitting you in the groin or other leg is not good. I'm pausing at the spot where it went black and white while you try to figure out how to get the faucet assembled and the only thought is screwing the top chrome pieces back together, unscrewing the brass 3 leg bracket, and screwing the bracket on to the bottom of the chrome pipe, re-screwing the bracket to the floor, and then sliding the cover over. I LOLed at the little phone popup sending a pic to "the wife". LOL. I wonder if that hose has a built-in vacuum breaker. Aha! You even used the blue tape on the cover like I was thinking. Glad you figured it out. I would have been so irritated in the moment while working on that though. What an asinine assembly method they designed! Are those tubs actually comfortable to sit in? They don't look terribly comfortable to me. LOL.
Dude, you gotta assemble the entire unit with the triangular base also attached first. Hold up the entire unit off the floor, attach the water lines then screw the base into the tile.
i use concrete drills for any sort of tiles, better experience with those with 4 cutting edges not 2. with the setting "no hammer, only rotation" and just leaning into it, not full pressure.
Jeff, I'm feeling dumb right now but I don't see how you secured the tub to the floor - you had mentioned it was essential to do so but I just missed how you did it. Also, what were the three screws on the faucet base going into?
Tub sits on the floor with the edges of the tub and the legs at the bottom plus silicone helps keep it steady The faucet bracket is screwed to the plywood subfloor
You will absolutely want threadlock on the threads of the feet, otherwise they will move over time. Knuts as a way to hold a threaded thing in place are about the least effective thing you can have. Throw a second knut as a locknut and some threadlocker, and you're off to the races.
Jeff what's name of the underlayment you recommended for use until lvt with underpaid built in? Where can I buy for UK , is it a insulation with built in vapour barrier product with no give?
Please define BS it's a term that gets used loosely and does not cover the who what where why when and how.... like the guy wanted to know please explain. Here's my opinion that bathroom can be kept spotlessly clean with a mop around the back side of the tub and his plumbing doesn't have to be installed in the wall. Which takes extra time... But part of your comment is right on..... He would not have the tile issue if he would have installed the plumbing in the wall. And gone with a much cheaper faucet system.
If you didn’t do that yourself, would you expect the contractor to scratch it all up? If they did, would you expect them to just tell you, you’re picky? Thanks for the videos. I love how fastidious you are. 😘
This drain system allows you to rotate the tub, but how much side to side movement can you get? I’m asking because I am using this system to install a tub that fits into the corner. I need a little bit of play to ensure I don’t get gaps at the wall.
I don't think I would use a fixture with long cantilever and no support near the top. At some point, someone is going stumble and fall against the fill fixture. It will either break or bend.
so in other words the drop in drain is pointless ? if you need to go under for water. I am installing one and I really thought how to do it very clean first time from above
That whole tub filler install was ass-backwards, Jeff. You should have assembled the whole thing, then tightened the plumbing up, THEN screwed the whole assembled unit into the floor. Edit: I jumped the gun and commented before I watched the last few minutes of the video. Sometimes we live and learn, eh?
